(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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There are 5460 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 110.
#3551 2 years ago

Hi everyone,

Doing a flipper rebuild, and discovered that my right flipper doesn’t have the coil listed in the manual. The manual says that both flippers should be FL-11629, which is a blue coil. My right flipper is a FL-11630. (Red.)

Safe to assume the manual is always correct? Does anyone whose flippers are stock definitely have 2 11629s?

From googling, it appears that the 11629s (blue) are high strength, and the 11630s (red) are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.

Just looking for confirmation before I order a replacement coil. Thanks!

#3552 2 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

Hi everyone,
Doing a flipper rebuild, and discovered that my right flipper doesn’t have the coil listed in the manual. The manual says that both flippers should be FL-11629, which is a blue coil. My right flipper is a FL-11630. (Red.)
Safe to assume the manual is always correct? Does anyone whose flippers are stock definitely have 2 11629s?
From googling, it appears that the 11630s are high strength, and the 11629s are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.
Just looking for confirmation before I order a replacement coil. Thanks!

I would finish the rebuild first before you mess with the coils. Should get your strength back. Not by my game right now to check mine sorry.

#3553 2 years ago

For the record, the copy of the manual I have is *littered* with errors, FWIW.

#3554 2 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

From googling, it appears that the 11630s are high strength, and the 11629s are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.

11629 is the highest strength Williams coil. For games with big ramps and long shots.

11630 is a standard strength coil.

http://pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html#solenoid_coil__chart_index

Manual says 2 11629s. I have a 11630 (not a Williams coil so definitely replaced) on my left and a 11629 on the right. Not sure if that's "right" but I can make all the shots.

#3555 2 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

Hi everyone,
Doing a flipper rebuild, and discovered that my right flipper doesn’t have the coil listed in the manual. The manual says that both flippers should be FL-11629, which is a blue coil. My right flipper is a FL-11630. (Red.)
Safe to assume the manual is always correct? Does anyone whose flippers are stock definitely have 2 11629s?
From googling, it appears that the 11630s are high strength, and the 11629s are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.
Just looking for confirmation before I order a replacement coil. Thanks!

I have 2 11629's, left coil looks original.

#3556 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

11629 is the highest strength Williams coil. For games with big ramps and long shots.
11630 is a standard strength coil.
http://pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html#solenoid_coil__chart_index
Manual says 2 11629s. I have a 11630 (not a Williams coil so definitely replaced) on my left and a 11629 on the right. Not sure if that's "right" but I can make all the shots.

D’oh! I transposed what I typed out. Yes, the 11630 is the medium and 11629 is the high power. I’ll correct my original post, thx.

Sounds like enough folks have 11629 on the right that it’s correct. (Or, at least, not shattering ramps.)

I’ve had problems with left ramp shots dying above the pops when the diverter directs the ball to the right side; sounds like this is part of the cause. Nice when the fixes are easy, eh?

Thanks, everyone!

#3557 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

11629 is the highest strength Williams coil. For games with big ramps and long shots.
11630 is a standard strength coil.
http://pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html#solenoid_coil__chart_index
Manual says 2 11629s. I have a 11630 (not a Williams coil so definitely replaced) on my left and a 11629 on the right. Not sure if that's "right" but I can make all the shots.

Interesting; I have the 11630 (red) on the right flipper, and have had trouble with left ramps for a while, now. I think the flippers were installed too tight against the bushing, because it was binding, but after fixing that, I still had problems during long games. I’m hopeful this fixes the problem!

1 week later
#3558 2 years ago

Since I bought my WCS a few months back, my first pinball ever, I havent had any time to spend on pinball since I became a father for the first time and started a new job around the same time I bought the machine - but today was the day!

My WCS works. But the right flipper needed a rebuild, got some broken plastic, need new rubber and im going to LED everything.
First time lifting up a playfield (aint even joking), but rebuilding a flipper wasnt very hard (ty pinball help). Even managed to break loose the EOS wires, so got to practise some soldering aswell.

On to the next step.

I thought cleaning, changing rubber and LED the game wouldnt be all that. Had no plans to remove everything, just bits here and there so I can get to what I need. Well damn, I was wrong. Dunno if its just WCS but everything seems to be connected to each other. I quite soon came to the conclusion that without removing left/right ramp I wasnt going to get anything done at all.

So the ramps are removed, and some other small stuff, thats all the time I had for today. I deeply regret not taking enough pictures while removing all this, might be a bit tricky to get back. Sigh.

Got a few questions. Thanks in advance for any insight.

-- How do i remove the %&(¤)(/ apron? I removed two screws infront of it and I cant find anything else that is keeping it down, but I cant move it all. What am i missing?

-- I ran all the self tests. Everything seems fine, but during solonoid test I couldnt hear the machine doing anything when it came to 16. Is it suppose to happen something?
DSC_0403 (resized).JPG

-- I found these plastic thingys on a few spots. Where can I buy these? They feel very hard, is it actually dried up rubber or is it something else? Need to replace a few since some of them are broken, but cant find them anywhere. Picture is from the plastic that is left from the left flipper and right from the right flipper.
DSC_0418 (resized).JPG

#3559 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Got a few questions. Thanks in advance for any insight.
-- How do i remove the %&(¤)(/ apron? I removed two screws infront of it and I cant find anything else that is keeping it down, but I cant move it all. What am i missing?
-- I ran all the self tests. Everything seems fine, but during solonoid test I couldnt hear the machine doing anything when it came to 16. Is it suppose to happen something?
-- I found these plastic thingys on a few spots. Where can I buy these? They feel very hard, is it actually dried up rubber or is it something else? Need to replace a few since some of them are broken, but cant find them anywhere. Picture is from the plastic that is left from the left flipper and right from the right flipper.

1. After removing the screws, push (carefully, so you don't scratch the playfield!) the apron forward - UP the playfield, to unlatch the two hooks on the edge of the outlane.
2. The 'HOLD' coil won't physically move nor make a sound, since it's a hold coil. If you manually push the diverter open, the hold coil will then hold it there for it's pulse.
3. Those are just hard plastic spacers, to keep the plastic mounted up. Not sure size or where you can get them, but for the record, yeah, they're supposed to be hard.

#3560 2 years ago

Frogot to mention that another thing I noticed yeterday when taking the top ramp off is that the Diverter post has nothing above the playfield holding it in place or aligning it. This has led to a wierd shaped hole in the ramp caused by the Diverter post rubbing against it over time.

Am I missing some piece? Or this normal?

#3561 2 years ago

this is how mine was

IMG_0312 (resized).jpg

IMG_0318 (resized).jpg

#3562 2 years ago

Joined the club a week ago and LOVE the game!

The only issue with the game is the sound won’t go below “8”. Not a huge problem, but keeps me from playing late night games when everyone’s sleeping —- any suggestions for a fix?

#3563 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballdad1961:

Joined the club a week ago and LOVE the game!
The only issue with the game is the sound won’t go below “8”. Not a huge problem, but keeps me from playing late night games when everyone’s sleeping —- any suggestions for a fix?

In Adjustments, "Min Vol Override". Set it to 'Yes'.

#3564 2 years ago

WCS94 ColorDMD has been announced. Color ROM should be available sometime today. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-game-68-world-cup-soccer

Video preview available currently only on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/colordmd/videos/1863001660395481/

#3565 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

this is how mine was

Forgot to take a picture of mine, need to do that when I get the chance (30 minute drive to my machine).
But im quite sure it doesnt look anything like that. I dont have that plastic circle thingy atleast.
Is that DIY or how its supposed to be?

#3566 2 years ago

WORLD CUP SOCCER VIDEO PREVIEW!

ColorDMD is excited to announce support for World Cup Soccer pinball machines! WCS was colored by Brandon Pennington whose prior contributions include Judge Dredd and ACDC!

Displays are available now and shipping through our site and from our distributors. The color ROM to support WCS is targeted for release on Wednesday, November 22! http://shop.colordmd.com

#3567 2 years ago

Don't know, that's just how mine was when I took it apart. Not sure if right or wrong. Hopefully someone will have an unmolested pic.

#3568 2 years ago

No WCS color code yet...

#3569 2 years ago

It’s up!!! It looks really good too! Love the airplane flying in....

0ED0EE38-E66E-44DF-BEC9-13574AB5C336 (resized).jpeg

#3570 2 years ago

Does anyone know the part number for the white plastic spacer? Cant find anything in the manual.
Or maybe someone who has it can measure it? So I know what size to order
spacer (resized).jpg

#3571 2 years ago

i cut a .25" donut off a post sleeve and threw it on there. worked like a charm.

#3572 2 years ago

Thanks Coyote——that worked!

#3573 2 years ago

Damn this colordmd looks amazing

#3574 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i cut a .25" donut off a post sleeve and threw is on there. worked like a charm.

Sweet! Im gonna try that. Thanks.

#3575 2 years ago

Heck yes!!

025 (resized).JPG

#3576 2 years ago

color DMD is a must in this game. I might need to buy this again....when I owned it before I wished it was color.

#3577 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Sweet! Im gonna try that. Thanks.

anytime.

yeah, i bet the colordmd looks insane on WCS. switch to hi-res already!

#3578 2 years ago

I always had fond memories of playing this game, sold a mint one due to circumstance and quickly regretted it. I recently bought a project one and it has a very rough playfield. Anyone have a reasonable playfield they have laying around they might sell?

Mine has wear around both flippers ( pretty bad ) and numerous inserts are decapped and quite rough.

#3579 2 years ago

A few issues I could use some help on:

I have recently installed a Cliffy Protector around the Assist ejector hole and the ejector is no long strong enough to kick the ball into the goal. I changed the ejector spring thinking that might be the problem but it did not help. The whole mechanism is clean and there is no binding and was working perfectly prior to the installation of the Cliffy. Any one with Cliffy's installed seen this before?

How difficult is it to hit the 3rd hole on the Coin Toss? My shooter does not have enough power with the Green or Blue shooter springs and I am hesitant to go up another rung on the spring tension. I have not played anyone else's WCS so is it just luck to hit the 3rd hole or is there something wrong on my machine?

When shooting the left ramp the machine will register half a ticket (the other half coming from the right ramp), however, about 50% of the time when hitting the left ramp it will score the first half of the ticket and then the second half once it hits the switch right before the Mini Playfield. I know this is not the way it is supposed to be. Any guidance on where to begin to track this down would be much appreciated.

Thanks for any pointers / advice fellow WCS owners!

#3580 2 years ago

Anyone have wcs94 metal parts for sale or just sitting around in a box?

Looking for metal goal, diverter, ball guides, skill shot assembly, and wireforms. If it's metal on the pf, I'd be interested.

#3581 2 years ago

Jo4114:
About the third hole on the coin toss, mine is fficult to hit, not impossible, but challenging. I have to have the plunger just so in order to hit it.
I like it like that.
I have played some that are a snap. Prefer mine.
If yours is difficult like mine, perhaps all the better. If yours is impossible, then a new spring should rectify.

#3582 2 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Jo4114:
About the third hole on the coin toss, mine is fficult to hit, not impossible

Ours is like this also. We have yellow Titans in it. If plunged too hard it will “rattle” around and not hit the last drop. You have to plunge about 3/4 strength and it seems have a bit of luck.

I’ve wondered actually if a different spring/sleeve combo would reduce the luck necessary?

#3583 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

I have recently installed a Cliffy Protector around the Assist ejector hole and the ejector is no long strong enough to kick the ball into the goal. I changed the ejector spring thinking that might be the problem but it did not help. The whole mechanism is clean and there is no binding and was working perfectly prior to the installation of the Cliffy. Any one with Cliffy's installed seen this before?

Interesting. I also have Cliffy's and a weak Assist eject. My situation was a complete playfield swap, new coils, sleeves and springs, so I couldn't figure out what could be the issue. This gives my something to think about.

#3584 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

My shooter does not have enough power with the Green or Blue shooter springs and I am hesitant to go up another rung on the spring tension.

Mine used to have the same issue, but I changed out the rubber tip on the end of the ball plunger and it works great now. Might be worth checking if it is hard or broken.

#3585 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Interesting. I also have Cliffy's and a weak Assist eject. My situation was a complete playfield swap, new coils, sleeves and springs, so I couldn't figure out what could be the issue. This gives my something to think about.

There's also this with misalignment. That assembly is prone to bind some what if the assembly is just a tad of the sweet spot. And the binding of corse makes it appear weak.

Might be worth a second look?

#3586 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

There's also this with misalignment. That assembly is prone to bind some what if the assembly is just a tad of the sweet spot. And the binding of corse makes it appear weak.
Might be worth a second look?

It's tough to get this dialed in with the Cliffy. My machine came with Cliffy's on the free kick holes and missing the one for the assist hole, I think this is why. The assist hole used to be 100% sure shot for me, then I installed a new carbon fiber cliffy and it had maybe enough power 20% of the time. I did some tweaking and I'm probably up to 90% or so. Never dug into the mech much though.

#3587 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

It's tough to get this dialed in with the Cliffy. My machine came with Cliffy's on the free kick holes and missing the one for the assist hole, I think this is why. The assist hole used to be 100% sure shot for me, then I installed a new carbon fiber cliffy and it had maybe enough power 20% of the time. I did some tweaking and I'm probably up to 90% or so. Never dug into the mech much though.

I did a through shop of my WCS a year back. Meaning removing all parts on top of playfield, cleaning parts and
playfield waxing playfield, replacing rubbers and broken parts etc. etc.. Removing all parts underneath playfield,
cleaning all the mecs, cleaning inserts, replacing all coil sleves etc etc.. Added carbon cliffys.

While re-mounting the free-kick-assembly I must have miss-adjusted things by a hair and I got some binding
in the mec and a week kick-out missing the goal. Some fine-tuning later It makes the goal every time
(with carbon cliffys) and I play my game pretty steep (7degree inclination)

That´s why I suggested a revisit to the assembly to see if some fine tuning is needed due to binding.

For what it´s worth.
Tuning and shopping a WCS is APITA!
Well worth it tough, a smooth playing WCS is a blast to play.

cheers
//mima

#3588 2 years ago

had the same issue after installing a new kickout bottom plastic. if the kicker arm doesn't hit the ball square, it'll appear weak. check allignment.

#3589 2 years ago

WORLD CUP SOCCER RELEASED!

The color ROM for World Cup Soccer has been released and is now available for download from our firmware SUPPORT site.

Thanks again and congratulations to Brandon Pennington for completion of his third title, and to Dave Timmer for helping out on the fireworks animations. Thanks also to Mark and Kevin for their help with beta testing for this title.

Displays are shipping now from our store and through our distributors! http://shop.colordmd.com

WCS_2x1 (resized).png

#3590 2 years ago
Quoted from Strohz:

Mine used to have the same issue, but I changed out the rubber tip on the end of the ball plunger and it works great now. Might be worth checking if it is hard or broken.

Replaced the rubber tip and no change. Still seemingly impossible to hit. Sometimes the game will Credit Dot out that lane it has been so long since it has been hit. Eventually, through some sort of divine intervention it will hit it. I know that the designer wanted it hit more often than the machine thought it was broken... I will keep at it..

#3591 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

had the same issue after installing a new kickout bottom plastic. if the kicker arm doesn't hit the ball square, it'll appear weak. check allignment.

Alignment looks good. Everything was working perfectly until the protector was installed. One thing I have not checked / played with was the game angle. Maybe it's too steep to work with the Cliffy.

#3592 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

I did a through shop of my WCS a year back. Meaning removing all parts on top of playfield, cleaning parts and
playfield waxing playfield, replacing rubbers and broken parts etc. etc.. Removing all parts underneath playfield,
cleaning all the mecs, cleaning inserts, replacing all coil sleves etc etc.. Added carbon cliffys.
While re-mounting the free-kick-assembly I must have miss-adjusted things by a hair and I got some binding
in the mec and a week kick-out missing the goal. Some fine-tuning later It makes the goal every time
(with carbon cliffys) and I play my game pretty steep (7degree inclination)
That´s why I suggested a revisit to the assembly to see if some fine tuning is needed due to binding.
For what it´s worth.
Tuning and shopping a WCS is APITA!
Well worth it tough, a smooth playing WCS is a blast to play.
cheers
//mima

Binding was the first thing I thought it might be... But it's super smooth, almost feels too loose but that mechanism appears to be designed that way.

#3593 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

It's tough to get this dialed in with the Cliffy. My machine came with Cliffy's on the free kick holes and missing the one for the assist hole, I think this is why. The assist hole used to be 100% sure shot for me, then I installed a new carbon fiber cliffy and it had maybe enough power 20% of the time. I did some tweaking and I'm probably up to 90% or so. Never dug into the mech much though.

What tweaking did you end up doing? I would be happy with 90%...cause right now I am at 0%

#3594 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

How difficult is it to hit the 3rd hole on the Coin Toss? My shooter does not have enough power with the Green or Blue shooter springs and I am hesitant to go up another rung on the spring tension. I have not played anyone else's WCS so is it just luck to hit the 3rd hole or is there something wrong on my machine?

For me the ball got hung up on the switch in the shooter lane such that there was a gap between the ball and the plunger, and a s a result the plunger could not hit the ball properly. After bending the switch arm slightly backwards the ball rolled over it and the plunger could hit it with full force.

#3595 2 years ago

Just joined the team today. Been on the wishlist for a while and didn’t get a great example but happy to have it.

Are the fuses listed in the diagram correct or are some known to be incorrect?
This one has a couple way off. F114 shows 8A 32V but had a 7A 250V and F903 had a 30A 32V instead of a 3A 250V. I guess some people put in whatever fits.

The center soccer ball inserts are coming up a bit and the skill decal is gone. Is there any decals for these or a way to clean up anyone knows off?

Did some searching but didn’t find anything. Forgive me if I missed it.

Looking forward to playing once I get the correct fuses in.

41D0FA60-09F9-4D69-A8C2-8C97975B7D09 (resized).jpeg

#3596 2 years ago

Watch out for people overfusing! Something is probably blowing that original fuse to begin with.

#3597 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

What tweaking did you end up doing? I would be happy with 90%...cause right now I am at 0%

I repositioned the cliffy slightly (there isn't much wiggle room), repositioned the mech too, and finely sanded down the edge of the cliffy a bit to try to line it up flush with the assist hole. It wasn't very scientific and the assist hole was pretty blown out.

I did also do a topside teardown when I installed the cliffy (might as well at that point). I agree with mima, it is a PITA, but well worth. The game plays so much faster when it is all cleaned up.

#3598 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Watch out for people overfusing! Something is probably blowing that original fuse to begin with.

Yep. That’s why I’m waiting to turn it on again until I pick up some fuses today and then I’ll see what happens. Hopefully they had just thrown in what they had and there’s not some other issues blowing the fuses. It was on route and this guy didn’t keep up machines so he is one who would just get it running. Batteries had 2013 written on them.

#3599 2 years ago

So I fixed some switches and got things working. One question I have is with the ball lock. I get it to the point of saying to hit either ramp to lock and I do but the ball just passes by. In test if I roll a ball along the path the switches all register and the magnet works in solenoid test. Am I missing something on what triggers the lock magnet?

#3600 2 years ago

The switch right in front of the magnet triggers it.

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