World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

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By DEWSHO

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by oyvindmo

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There are 3235 posts in topic. You are on page 64 of 65.
#3151 69 days ago

Ok I'm gonna try hitting it with a magic eraser. Not sure if that will do the trick but worth a shot. The inside of the ball is white so I'm hoping it comes clean.

Is there anyway to paint it? Customize it maybe?

#3152 69 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Might try here: http://wap.loflin.us/index.php?route=product/category&path=34_55

#3153 69 days ago

1 left on Ebay, 25 sold :

ebay.com link » Bally World Cup Soccer 94 Pinball Replacement Soccer Ball New

#3154 69 days ago

Swedish store, Free-play.se have them for that same price, but I think they're repros. I have one though and its great.

#3155 69 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Marco has them back in stock for $44.99.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709

#3156 68 days ago

OK... You may or may not be interested in my illustrated mini-project, but here it is anyway.

I have made a PinTopper for my WCS, complete with interactive lighting. (others have done something similar)

I bought Soccer Ball wall night light from Target.com for under $20. I had some 6V white led strip left over from lighting my field lights and drain hole that I got from @BioBa, who I also consulted on this mod. He pointed me to ebay for some 12V led strips that I got in both red and green (lot's left over if anyone is interested).
IMG_20170215_194851 (resized).jpg

I opened up the soccer ball, removing the 4 screws at the bottom, and as you can see, there is not much there.
IMG_20170215_194943 (resized).jpg

Then, I removed the 2 screws for the switch, which I moved to the center, under the originial lighting board. The opening for the switch will be used for my own wiring harness to the machine. I then stuck 2 segments of 3 white, lights (for GI), then 4 segments of 3 green around the perimeter, and then finally, a 4 more segments of 3 red inside of that.
IMG_20170215_200513 (resized).jpg

Next comes the wiring. I kind of did a daisy chain in brown wire for the common ground (I should have used the white... oops).
IMG_20170215_203143 (resized).jpg

Then I used white wire for the hot (should have used brown), for the outer green, inner red, and center white.
IMG_20170215_204633 (resized).jpg

Then, I used 3' trailer wiring extension cord, which I cut the one end off about 6" from the end (with the exposed hot wires under the jacket), and attached that to the main unit, so it goes out where the switch was.
IMG_20170216_101401 (resized).jpg

Re-assembling it, you can see the short end of the cord coming out through the hole where the switch was, along with the other, long end, of the cord, which will attach to the machine. The common (exposed pin) for ground, which is the white wire. The brown wire is for the white, 6V GI, the yellow wire is the 12V red, and finally the green wire for the 12V green.
IMG_20170216_101756 (resized).jpg

Looks great when lit!
IMG_20170216_101727 (resized).jpg

Again, the ball will be white with the GI, but flash red for goal, and flash green for other features (not yet decided). Connecting the harness will be easy, going in through the back vent, and attaching to back box lights, because they are simple punch down connectors. Stupid simple!

Except for re-locating the original switch, the original electronics are intact, and I could easily put it back to original... Did not need to do this... I also considered using the original circuit for GI instead of the white strips... I may still do this if the strips are too bright.

Once I had the parts, building this took no more than an hour, total, and has a total cost of about $40, except that I already had the harness in the garage, and had the white left over. I would be happy to sell some green and red led to anyone who want's to do this, and it would cost you a lot less... Probably more like $30 total.

When I get it attached to the machine, I will probably put a short video on YouTube, so you can see what it looks like during game play.

UPDATE:
Got the topper installed, but had to change my wiring. The 12V DC had the polarity wrong, so I now have white for ground and brown for hot, after some changes in the wiring. Also, I learned that the GI is 6.5V AC (not DC), so I cannot use the common ground. I had to add a 5th wire. Right now, it's just a single strand, but I will be replacing my 4 pin harness with a 5 pin version when the cable arrives.

I did do a quick, and pretty crappy video, which is available here:
» YouTube video

Next project: Powder coating habitrail and cointoss in dark yellow (to match the yellow on the sides)

#3157 68 days ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Marco has them back in stock for $44.99

Thanks, I checked with Marco a few days ago and they were not in stock.

#3158 68 days ago

I'm a member of the club now! Been on my wishlist for a while now.

16603115_1402838319738072_2676913364248908129_n (resized).jpg

#3159 68 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Cover the entire ball in salon grade peroxide, the strongest that you can find from a salon supply store. The insert it into a clear plastic bag and put it in direct sun outside. The peroxide will bleach the yellow out completely. Downside, it works on some balls, some it doesn't.

#3160 68 days ago

Thanks, I will give that a try if my other methods don't work. If it ruins it, I'll buy the replacement from Marco

#3161 62 days ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK... You may or may not be interested in my illustrated mini-project, but here it is anyway.
I have made a PinTopper for my WCS, complete with interactive lighting. (others have done something similar)
I bought Soccer Ball wall night light from Target.com for under $20. I had some 6V white led strip left over from lighting my field lights and drain hole that I got from BioBa, who I also consulted on this mod. He pointed me to ebay for some 12V led strips that I got in both red and green (lot's left over if anyone is interested).

I opened up the soccer ball, removing the 4 screws at the bottom, and as you can see, there is not much there.

Then, I removed the 2 screws for the switch, which I moved to the center, under the originial lighting board. The opening for the switch will be used for my own wiring harness to the machine. I then stuck 2 segments of 3 white, lights (for GI), then 4 segments of 3 green around the perimeter, and then finally, a 4 more segments of 3 red inside of that.

Next comes the wiring. I kind of did a daisy chain in brown wire for the common ground (I should have used the white... oops).

Then I used white wire for the hot (should have used brown), for the outer green, inner red, and center white.

Then, I used 3' trailer wiring extension cord, which I cut the one end off about 6" from the end (with the exposed hot wires under the jacket), and attached that to the main unit, so it goes out where the switch was.

Re-assembling it, you can see the short end of the cord coming out through the hole where the switch was, along with the other, long end, of the cord, which will attach to the machine. The common (exposed pin) for ground, which is the white wire. The brown wire is for the white, 6V GI, the yellow wire is the 12V red, and finally the green wire for the 12V green.

Looks great when lit!

Again, the ball will be white with the GI, but flash red for goal, and flash green for other features (not yet decided). Connecting the harness will be easy, going in through the back vent, and attaching to back box lights, because they are simple punch down connectors. Stupid simple!
Except for re-locating the original switch, the original electronics are intact, and I could easily put it back to original... Did not need to do this... I also considered using the original circuit for GI instead of the white strips... I may still do this if the strips are too bright.
Once I had the parts, building this took no more than an hour, total, and has a total cost of about $40, except that I already had the harness in the garage, and had the white left over. I would be happy to sell some green and red led to anyone who want's to do this, and it would cost you a lot less... Probably more like $30 total.
When I get it attached to the machine, I will probably put a short video on YouTube, so you can see what it looks like during game play.
UPDATE:
Got the topper installed, but had to change my wiring. The 12V DC had the polarity wrong, so I now have white for ground and brown for hot, after some changes in the wiring. Also, I learned that the GI is 6.5V AC (not DC), so I cannot use the common ground. I had to add a 5th wire. Right now, it's just a single strand, but I will be replacing my 4 pin harness with a 5 pin version when the cable arrives.
I did do a quick, and pretty crappy video, which is available here:
» YouTube video
Next project: Powder coating habitrail and cointoss in dark yellow (to match the yellow on the sides)

Looks great! Thanks for giving all the detailed instructions.

#3162 62 days ago

I just installed my home made soccer ball plunger. Most of the plungers I have seen have very small and flimsy soccer balks attached. The biggest problem is that the paint of most of these plungers comes of after heavy use. This soccer ball is heavy duty and epoxy clear coated.

20170223_204430 (resized).jpg

20170223_204442 (resized).jpg

#3163 62 days ago

I should be in as I have 1.5 WCS. The .5 is a game that was parted when I got it. Might be selling some parts. Anybody looking for some?

#3164 62 days ago
Quoted from unigroove:

I should be in as I have 1.5 WCS. The .5 is a game that was parted when I got it. Might be selling some parts. Anybody looking for some?

I could use the tackle plastic. The big one to the right of the left ramp.

Also the speaker panel cover.

Thanks!

#3165 61 days ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I just installed my home made soccer ball plunger. Most of the plungers I have seen have very small and flimsy soccer balks attached. The biggest problem is that the paint of most of these plungers comes of after heavy use. This soccer ball is heavy duty and epoxy clear coated.

That thing is GINORMOUS! Looks good though.

Quoted from BioBa:

Looks great! Thanks for giving all the detailed instructions.

Thanks. I am still curious how you did yours? Did you do a similar arrangement with the led strips?
I just got my 5 pin harness in the mail yesterday, so I need to switch it out. Again, I am having to go from 4 to 5 wires, because the 6.5V GI does not share a common ground with the 12V flashers.
It sure does add a lot while your are playing the game though... The red and green flashes are super bright!

#3166 61 days ago
Quoted from unigroove:

I should be in as I have 1.5 WCS. The .5 is a game that was parted when I got it. Might be selling some parts. Anybody looking for some?

Ya got a list of what's available?
... or too many to note?

#3167 61 days ago
Quoted from dleasman:

That thing is GINORMOUS! Looks good though.

Thanks. I am still curious how you did yours? Did you do a similar arrangement with the led strips?
I just got my 5 pin harness in the mail yesterday, so I need to switch it out. Again, I am having to go from 4 to 5 wires, because the 6.5V GI does not share a common ground with the 12V flashers.
It sure does add a lot while your are playing the game though... The red and green flashes are super bright!

I did mine like a dome. With two strips crossing over at the top inside the topper soccer ball.

Action memo20170224_084657_1 (resized).jpg

#3168 61 days ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I did mine like a dome. With two strips crossing over at the top inside the topper soccer ball.

If it's really a dome, as you describe, then you are using at least 3x the led elements that I am. That thing must be super bright.
Even with just 12 SMDs of each color, and then just 6 of the white, it's plenty bright. In the end, it was a fun project, pretty inexpensive, and yielded a great result.

#3169 58 days ago

Brought my first machine home today, a beautiful World Cup! Excited to be joining the club..

#3170 57 days ago

Just an update on my soccer ball pin-topper...

Because I was using GI (6.5V AC) and 2 flasher circuits (12V DC), I could not use a common ground for all...

So, I had to update with a 5 pin connector (used a trailer extension again). And I also added some black, flexible conduit to spruce it up. Everything connects to the backbox lights.

pin1: ground
pin2: +12V green leds
pin3: +12V red leds
pin4: 6.5V AC white leds
pin5: 6.5V AC white leds

IMG_20170225_141615 (resized).jpg

#3171 52 days ago

Hey everyone, I just picked up a WCS and it's throwing an error code, but I can't figure what the issue is. It says, check switch F8. U.L. Flipper Button." The problem is in the manual, I can't find an F8 switch or an upper left flipper for that matter. Any ideas what the issue is?

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#3172 52 days ago

f8 would be a fuse, i believe.

#3173 52 days ago

not a fuse.

i'll let someone smarter figure that one out.

#3174 52 days ago

i think it's the opto for an upper left flipper, which this game obviously doesn't have. clean the optos on your leftside flipper opto board.

#3175 50 days ago
Quoted from Mizzou0103:

Hey everyone, I just picked up a WCS and it's throwing an error code, but I can't figure what the issue is. It says, check switch F8. U.L. Flipper Button." The problem is in the manual, I can't find an F8 switch or an upper left flipper for that matter. Any ideas what the issue is?

On this machine, in your back box, the upper left board (about 6" square) is the Fliptronic II board. On WCS, the "upper left" is actually your left flipper (upper right is right, lower right is the magna save, lower left is the ball capture magnet).

This is talking about your upper left flipper button, which is actually the left flipper button. This is a dual optical controller, where it's kind of a 2 stage button. That board, much like the controller for the ball trough, just translates the optical encoding to the switch matrix, except the main flipper buttons are not actually on the matrix.

On the back page of your manual, you will see the lamp matrix and the switch matrix. On the right side of that chart, you will see an additional column, of F1 - F8. Even though the diagnostics is talking about F8, I am pretty sure it's actually talking about F4.

Always look for the simplest solution first...

This could be caused by any number of minor things, but I would start by removing your left flipper's optical board, It just unplugs, and I think it has 2 screws holding it to the cabinet wall. Check and make sure the plastic arm is falling into the slot of the optical unit. It's like a black, plastic, boxy U shaped thing. It's the sender and receiver in a single unit. If it's scratched up inside of there, it could keep it form working. If it's dirty enough, it could keep it from working.

Since the left and right optical boards are identical, try swapping them and see if the problem moves to F2 (though it might show F6, since F4 is reading F8). If the problem persists with the same error, then it's likely the wiring from the left optical board to the back box, where it connects to the Fliptronic II board.

60% chance, it's a simple mechanical issue
35% chance, it's a connection issue with the wiring between the optical board and the fliptronic
10% chance, it's your optical board
5% chance, it's your fliptronic board

Should be an easy one to figure out.

#3176 50 days ago

Thanks for the help! Based on what you wrote, my first guess it's dirt and grime that's causing the problem. This thing was DIRTY when I picked it up. Probably hadn't been shopped in years.

#3177 48 days ago

I've had problems with williams flipper opto boards before. Replacing it fixed my problem, they are not super expensive and I couldn't find the correct opto in my case

#3178 48 days ago

Just took mine to LAX this past weekend and it was played non stop all weekend without a hiccup. A quick rundown with novus when I got back and she looks like she never left!

IMG_5605 (resized).JPG

#3179 45 days ago

When I turn on the WCS, the goal popper keeps on firing. Any ideas?

#3180 45 days ago

game thinks there's a ball in there. is that an opto? try cleaning those. if it's a mechanical switch, it might be stuck on the assembly somewhere or the spring grabbed it.

#3181 45 days ago
Quoted from weaverj:

is that an opto?

Yes it is

#3182 44 days ago

I recently had the goalie VUK popping too. It was a broken connection to one of my optos. Resoldered it and it was good to go.

#3183 44 days ago

Yes intermittent goal tray opto triggers vuk

1 week later
#3184 30 days ago

Looking for help with my WCS... For as long as I've had this machine there has been one out of place dangling connector that has been driving me nuts. It looks like it might go to a lamp, but I've looked everywhere and can't find an empty connector that it would go to. Plus, all of my lamps and features work fine.

Does anybody know what this goes to? The picture is taken from right in front of the coin door, looking under the apron towards the flippers. Sorry its not a perfect pic, but its the blurry connector on the left of the picture. Its right in the front of the machine, near the flippers. It looks like the same style connector that feeds the small lamp boards and it has only two wires. It comes out of a large connector (you can see it clearly in the picture right near the center of the pic) that sits in a wire bundle right under the flippers. Is it loose on other machines too or does it go somewhere or serve some purpose I don't know about?

Thanks!

- Gblaz

IMG_2347 (resized).jpg

#3185 30 days ago

I just checked my WCS and I have the same connector. Mine is tucked into the wire loom so it's not as obvious as yours is. If I were guessing I'd say that either this same loom was used on another game being made at around the same time for which the extra connector was needed, or it was for an additional feature that was eventually removed from the production game. It's also possible that it was for something on the coin door or to be used on a foreign coin door.

I'm sure someone here knows for sure but that would be my guess.

In the meantime, if it bugs you then just stuff it into the wire loom so it's not hanging out there for you to see every time you open your coin door.

Dave

#3186 30 days ago

I have several WCS in at the moment. That has no bearing on the game on either of mine.

#3187 30 days ago

Having a very inconsistent issue on my game. Every so often when you lock a ball for multiball, then hit the final draw scoop, the start of multiball just sits there and doesn't kick a ball out into the shooter lane. I can see the ball just sitting in the trough on the coil, but nothing. Switches work fine in test and the game kicks balls out fine in every other instance. Any ideas?

#3188 29 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Having a very inconsistent issue on my game. Every so often when you lock a ball for multiball, then hit the final draw scoop, the start of multiball just sits there and doesn't kick a ball out into the shooter lane. I can see the ball just sitting in the trough on the coil, but nothing. Switches work fine in test and the game kicks balls out fine in every other instance. Any ideas?

Sounds silly, but when this happens, did you try just giving the machine a little shake to make sure all the balls advance to their appropriate position in the trough? This happened to me once after I put new balls in the game. For some reason they just needed a little nudge sometimes to get them to advance in the trough. Try it next time it happens.

#3189 29 days ago

may need a magnetic shim in your trough. i did.

#3190 28 days ago
Quoted from weaverj:

may need a magnetic shim in your trough. i did.

What's this?

#3191 28 days ago
Quoted from Dave_W:

Sounds silly, but when this happens, did you try just giving the machine a little shake to make sure all the balls advance to their appropriate position in the trough? This happened to me once after I put new balls in the game. For some reason they just needed a little nudge sometimes to get them to advance in the trough. Try it next time it happens.

Yeah I can see the ball sitting on coil that feeds the shooter lane, but I didn't think to check the other balls lined up behind it. I suspect the balls might be magnitized too. Had two on a trap and they stuck together when I released the flipper haha.

#3193 28 days ago

I got a new rubber spinning ball at the TPF. Marco had some extra balls for $20. They had some imperfections which explained the lower price, but for $20 I couldn't beat it. A few of them had what looked like black overspray but I picked out the best one. It's certainly a lot better than my yellowed ball.

#3194 28 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I got a new rubber spinning ball at the TPF. Marco had some extra balls for $20. They had some imperfections which explained the lower price, but for $20 I couldn't beat it. A few of them had what looked like black overspray but I picked out the best one. It's certainly a lot better than my yellowed ball.

Crazy. I got one with imperfections and the black flaked off the second you touched it. That's a hell of a deal there. I would've bought three. Haha

#3195 28 days ago
Quoted from Dave_W:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

Awesome thanks! At least this will rule some things out. Do the pant legs point to the shooter lane or the outhole?

#3196 28 days ago

insert it from the center drain side; it points to the shooter lane.

#3197 26 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Having a very inconsistent issue on my game. Every so often when you lock a ball for multiball, then hit the final draw scoop, the start of multiball just sits there and doesn't kick a ball out into the shooter lane. I can see the ball just sitting in the trough on the coil, but nothing. Switches work fine in test and the game kicks balls out fine in every other instance. Any ideas?

This is likely one of 2 things.
1) the trough gets pits in it from the balls sitting (or when the bounce into each other in the trough). If you give the machine a little shake, they will roll towards the coil, and shoot up. If this is the cause, it may be necessary to file the slot in the trough so that the balls roll smoothly again. You can also shim the coil end of the trough, where it meets the underside of the table, so the angle is more steep, but this will only contribute to the damage being caused. I think I have seen a nylon pice that can be attached that solves the issue, but I can't remember where. (edit: I see someone posted a link to the part, above)
2) Your optos may be dirty. There is a board on either side of the trough. One side is the emmitors, the other side holds the sensors. There is one set for each ball, plus, one above the first ball, to let it know if a ball is being kicked up. The boards are easy to remove, for cleaning of the emmitors and sensors. Also, on the left side of the playfield, there is a board hanging down. This is what converts the opto signals to simple open/close circuits and from there, they are all on the switch matrix. There are 3 connectors here than can get dirty as well.

#3198 26 days ago
Quoted from dleasman:

This is likely one of 2 things.
1) the trough gets pits in it from the balls sitting (or when the bounce into each other in the trough). If you give the machine a little shake, they will roll towards the coil, and shoot up. If this is the cause, it may be necessary to file the slot in the trough so that the balls roll smoothly again. You can also shim the coil end of the trough, where it meets the underside of the table, so the angle is more steep, but this will only contribute to the damage being caused. I think I have seen a nylon pice that can be attached that solves the issue, but I can't remember where.
2) Your optos may be dirty. There is a board on either side of the trough. One side is the emmitors, the other side holds the sensors. There is one set for each ball, plus, one above the first ball, to let it know if a ball is being kicked up. The boards are easy to remove, for cleaning of the emmitors and sensors. Also, on the left side of the playfield, there is a board hanging down. This is what converts the opto signals to simple open/close circuits and from there, they are all on the switch matrix. There are 3 connectors here than can get dirty as well.

1) don't think this is the issue as I can see the ball sitting on top of the coil that fires the ball into the shooter lane. However, if all the other balls are not lined up properly behind it, that may be the issue. I have ordered the nylon shim and I will try that.

2) I think the optos are okay as the work fine in test when I toss the balls down the drain one at a time. Tested this a handful of times to see if they were intermittently registering.

#3199 26 days ago

Where are Cliffys readily accessible available for WCS?

#3200 26 days ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

Where are Cliffys readily accessible available for WCS?

crinear@comcast.net

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