World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

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By DEWSHO

3 years ago


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  • Started 3 years ago
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Bugsy

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There are 3157 posts in topic. You are on page 64 of 64.
#3151 4 days ago

Ok I'm gonna try hitting it with a magic eraser. Not sure if that will do the trick but worth a shot. The inside of the ball is white so I'm hoping it comes clean.

Is there anyway to paint it? Customize it maybe?

#3152 4 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Might try here: http://wap.loflin.us/index.php?route=product/category&path=34_55

#3153 4 days ago

1 left on Ebay, 25 sold :

ebay.com link » Bally World Cup Soccer 94 Pinball Replacement Soccer Ball New

#3154 4 days ago

Swedish store, Free-play.se have them for that same price, but I think they're repros. I have one though and its great.

#3155 4 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Marco has them back in stock for $44.99.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709

#3156 3 days ago

OK... You may or may not be interested in my illustrated mini-project, but here it is anyway.

I have made a PinTopper for my WCS, complete with interactive lighting. (others have done something similar)

I bought Soccer Ball wall night light from Target.com for under $20. I had some 6V white led strip left over from lighting my field lights and drain hole that I got from @BioBa, who I also consulted on this mod. He pointed me to ebay for some 12V led strips that I got in both red and green (lot's left over if anyone is interested).
IMG_20170215_194851 (resized).jpg

I opened up the soccer ball, removing the 4 screws at the bottom, and as you can see, there is not much there.
IMG_20170215_194943 (resized).jpg

Then, I removed the 2 screws for the switch, which I moved to the center, under the originial lighting board. The opening for the switch will be used for my own wiring harness to the machine. I then stuck 2 segments of 3 white, lights (for GI), then 4 segments of 3 green around the perimeter, and then finally, a 4 more segments of 3 red inside of that.
IMG_20170215_200513 (resized).jpg

Next comes the wiring. I kind of did a daisy chain in brown wire for the common ground (I should have used the white... oops).
IMG_20170215_203143 (resized).jpg

Then I used white wire for the hot (should have used brown), for the outer green, inner red, and center white.
IMG_20170215_204633 (resized).jpg

Then, I used 3' trailer wiring extension cord, which I cut the one end off about 6" from the end (with the exposed hot wires under the jacket), and attached that to the main unit, so it goes out where the switch was.
IMG_20170216_101401 (resized).jpg

Re-assembling it, you can see the short end of the cord coming out through the hole where the switch was, along with the other, long end, of the cord, which will attach to the machine. The common (exposed pin) for ground, which is the white wire. The brown wire is for the white, 6V GI, the yellow wire is the 12V red, and finally the green wire for the 12V green.
IMG_20170216_101756 (resized).jpg

Looks great when lit!
IMG_20170216_101727 (resized).jpg

Again, the ball will be white with the GI, but flash red for goal, and flash green for other features (not yet decided). Connecting the harness will be easy, going in through the back vent, and attaching to back box lights, because they are simple punch down connectors. Stupid simple!

Except for re-locating the original switch, the original electronics are intact, and I could easily put it back to original... Did not need to do this... I also considered using the original circuit for GI instead of the white strips... I may still do this if the strips are too bright.

Once I had the parts, building this took no more than an hour, total, and has a total cost of about $40, except that I already had the harness in the garage, and had the white left over. I would be happy to sell some green and red led to anyone who want's to do this, and it would cost you a lot less... Probably more like $30 total.

When I get it attached to the machine, I will probably put a short video on YouTube, so you can see what it looks like during game play.

UPDATE:
Got the topper installed, but had to change my wiring. The 12V DC had the polarity wrong, so I now have white for ground and brown for hot, after some changes in the wiring. Also, I learned that the GI is 6.5V AC (not DC), so I cannot use the common ground. I had to add a 5th wire. Right now, it's just a single strand, but I will be replacing my 4 pin harness with a 5 pin version when the cable arrives.

I did do a quick, and pretty crappy video, which is available here:
» YouTube video

Next project: Powder coating habitrail and cointoss in dark yellow (to match the yellow on the sides)

#3157 3 days ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Marco has them back in stock for $44.99

Thanks, I checked with Marco a few days ago and they were not in stock.

#3158 3 days ago

I'm a member of the club now! Been on my wishlist for a while now.

16603115_1402838319738072_2676913364248908129_n (resized).jpg

#3159 3 days ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone had a yellowed rubber ball in their game? Not sure the best way to try and clean that. Seems most places are sold out of replacements.

Cover the entire ball in salon grade peroxide, the strongest that you can find from a salon supply store. The insert it into a clear plastic bag and put it in direct sun outside. The peroxide will bleach the yellow out completely. Downside, it works on some balls, some it doesn't.

#3160 3 days ago

Thanks, I will give that a try if my other methods don't work. If it ruins it, I'll buy the replacement from Marco

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