Quoted from Coyote:Hey guys -
Does anyone have one of the prototype ramp plastics I could borrow to scan? Or, anyone have a high-res scan of said plastic?
Thanks!
Just curious... what's different on these prototype plastics?
Quoted from Coyote:Hey guys -
Does anyone have one of the prototype ramp plastics I could borrow to scan? Or, anyone have a high-res scan of said plastic?
Thanks!
Just curious... what's different on these prototype plastics?
Soooo I'm getting nearer a working WCS, somewhat...I think. I put in a new rottendog power drive board, booted it up today (I still have all ramps and some details off from the pf). I noticed that I will have to replace a few iffy GI lamp sockets that wont light up or are intermittent.
Anyway, I was running through the coil check to see if there were any issues, and none of the coils or any flashers actuated. The goalie and ball motor worked in the test. Very strange, I thought maybe it had something to do that I still have ramps and things plugged out which maybe doesn't complete a circuit or something.
So I coined the game and pushed start to let the game search for balls and all coils suddenly jumped alive in the ball search. I still don't know if my flippers work however since they didnt actuate in either ball search or diagnostic test. What am I missing?
Quoted from aerobert:Soooo I'm getting nearer a working WCS, somewhat...I think. I put in a new rottendog power drive board, booted it up today (I still have all ramps and some details off from the pf). I noticed that I will have to replace a few iffy GI lamp sockets that wont light up or are intermittent.
Anyway, I was running through the coil check to see if there were any issues, and none of the coils or any flashers actuated. The goalie and ball motor worked in the test. Very strange, I thought maybe it had something to do that I still have ramps and things plugged out which maybe doesn't complete a circuit or something.
So I coined the game and pushed start to let the game search for balls and all coils suddenly jumped alive in the ball search. I still don't know if my flippers work however since they didnt actuate in either ball search or diagnostic test. What am I missing?
Was the coin door open when you were in the test mode? If so all the power to the flashers and coil is turned off.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Was the coin door open when you were in the test mode? If so all the power to the flashers and coil is turned off.
Yes, how else would I access the test mode or the buttons? Isn't the test supposed to override the coin door? Forgive me, but I'm new to shopping machines, I've only had working machines before.
Quoted from aerobert:Yes, how else would I access the test mode or the buttons? Isn't the test supposed to override the coin door? Forgive me, but I'm new to shopping machines, I've only had working machines before.
Quoted from aerobert:Yes, how else would I access the test mode or the buttons? Isn't the test supposed to override the coin door? Forgive me, but I'm new to shopping machines, I've only had working machines before.
Thought the same thing but once you start the test nothing will happen until the door is closed.
U have to hold the switch on the inside of the coin door during the test. Notice the message u get when you open the coin door and it says that high voltage is disabled?
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:U have to hold the switch on the inside of the coin door during the test. Notice the message u get when you open the coin door and it says that high voltage is disabled?
Could you point out the switch?
Quoted from aerobert:Could you point out the switch?
Inside on the left of the doorway. It's white.
Quoted from Archon9000:Just curious... what's different on these prototype plastics?
The 'Jackpot' top light is larger - it's the size of an #89 or #906 flasher, but is controlled (i..e not a flasher. )
Quoted from chuckwurt:Inside on the left of the doorway. It's white.
Some of those (I don't remember when WMS started this..) you can pull out a 'click' and it will activate. Others, the game came with a yellow latch you can slide down over the switch to hold it activated while the door was open.
Just had an epic ball stuck of all of my balls on a game out route,
the damn ring under the left ramp broke, freaking white ring dry rotted well.
New glow in the dark Titan ring there and some 1/2" ring post rubbers too (photo someday).
Does anyone have a part number/breakdown of the spinner target assembly? My target rod broke and I only found A-18199 as the whole assembly part number in the manual. A quick look at Marco and PBR show various spinners but no number or dimensions for me to figure out what I need. Googling and searching pinside didn't yet any results. Thanks.
Quoted from louvnj:Does anyone have a part number/breakdown of the spinner target assembly? My target rod broke and I only found A-18199 as the whole assembly part number in the manual. A quick look at Marco and PBR show various spinners but no number or dimensions for me to figure out what I need. Googling and searching pinside didn't yet any results. Thanks.
Try the planetary pinball manuals on their website.
Thanks, I didn't realize they had so much information there, just need to dig in to those manuals.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Try the planetary pinball manuals on their website.
Just finished the tear down shopping of my WCS. It was so filthy, but it played fine so I kept it in the lineup while I worked on other projects. So this was long overdue and looks like it belongs with my other clean and shiny pins. Still have to clean the lockdown bar area and the inside of the cabinet, but done for now with friends coming over tomorrow and house stuff to do.
Quoted from PoMC:Just finished the tear down shopping of my WCS. It was so filthy, but it played fine so I kept it in the lineup while I worked on other projects. So this was long overdue and looks like it belongs with my other clean and shiny pins. Still have to clean the lockdown bar area and the inside of the cabinet, but done for now with friends coming over tomorrow and house stuff to do.
Nice work!! These games look great after a good cleaning.
Quoted from PoMC:Just finished the tear down shopping of my WCS. It was so filthy, but it played fine so I kept it in the lineup while I worked on other projects. So this was long overdue and looks like it belongs with my other clean and shiny pins. Still have to clean the lockdown bar area and the inside of the cabinet, but done for now with friends coming over tomorrow and house stuff to do.
Wow, looking good, I really like the mirror blades.
By the way, I believe that piece angled metal at the bottom of the right ramp is supposed to face down and in, and protect the end of the ramp from the ball smacking into it. My game has them on both ramps that way, and I think one on the upper portion of the left ramp as well. Just an FYI and I can take a picture if what I am describing isn't clear
Quoted from mattmarr:By the way, I believe that piece angled metal at the bottom of the right ramp is supposed to face down and in, and protect the end of the ramp from the ball smacking into it.
what duder said.
clean pinball machines are so sweet.
That makes sense about the angled metal piece. When I reinstalled it I was wondering what the heck purpose of it was....thought it was some airball protector.
Current state of my restoration. 8 months in and I'm feeling that it's close to the end. No more fault codes. Two bumper lamps are broken off and need to be replaced as well as the goal tray opto. Two new flipper bats should go on and then I can start putting everything back together.
This will not be a perfect restoration but compared to how filthy this was (check my post history in this thread) it'll be perfectly fine, even if some schmuck has pierced the pf slightly in a couple spots by using too long screws when changing a flipper coil.
Btw do you have any tips why some GI lights are so intermittent with some led lamps? Sometimes the slightest touch can make them go out but stay perfectly on when adjusted. Normal bulbs dont seem to behave the same.
Looks b-e-a-utiful!
Anyone know where to get those pesky plastic ramp sets? Someone has to sell them somewhere.
<Btw do you have any tips why some GI lights are so intermittent with some led lamps? Sometimes the slightest touch can make them go out but stay perfectly on when adjusted. Normal bulbs dont seem to behave the same.
I have a couple that are touchy with LEDs. But it's always the same ones, and I have 2 different type LEDs in them. I really believe it is the sockets. It hasn't been enough of a problem that I've bothered to try and bend the connections tighter in the sockets to see if it helps. My problem ones are low on the playfield, so when the glass is off, I just wiggle the bulb until it comes on.
And Coyote once again came over and left with the Grand Champion high score on World Cup! I had just beat his score a week prior and he beat it by 350 million.
Quoted from PoMC:And Coyote once again came over and left with the Grand Champion high score on World Cup! I had just beat his score a week prior and he beat it by 350 million.
Thanks for having me over. Was a nice surprise! (I mean, the invite, not the GC.. )
Quoted from PoMC:You might want to reconsider those LED color choices because I don't think that will look nice when all the plastics and ramps are installed.
Here's mine I just finished with bright white LEDs and Comet bumper LED boards. Clean and bright looking.
Agreed....Rarehero taught me sometime back that messing with colors under plastics can definitely muddy the waters. Clear inserts are fun to play with, however.....
Yes, I'm only playing around with some color combinations. Usually white is simply the way to go as it will keep the original color design.
The purple LEDs are VERY purple in this picture, but they are much more white to the eye in person. Only slightly off white with a purple tint.
I think I will only keep the green ones in the bottom (to match my green bats with white rubber) and the green ones in the goal. The three leds in the back will blue or white, yellow is too weak.
I use only frosted tips, except for the rollover lanes and bumpers where I have cointakers double leds. Had a few laying around to test with. The bumper area is so dark otherwise.
Thanks for your input.
Quoted from PoMC:You might want to reconsider those LED color choices because I don't think that will look nice when all the plastics and ramps are installed.
I agree. But it's more of a preference thing. I like mine bright.
I notice you lit your field lights at the top, and added a light under "lock" on the ball lock. I also have the I did those same things a while back. I also have the same comet bumper lights (green on top, white under)
A couple areas where I did add more color are the lights under the ramp areas (I think 6 or 7 in all), and under the rails left and right of the flippers (2 on each side) all in green. I also added an additional white led strip in the drain hole to light the flipper area better. Then I added 3 spot lights to brighten any areas that were lacking light. I am sure I have pictures of this on a previous post, and a video as well.
Some machines look good with a lot of color, like The Adams Family or Midieval Madness, but WCS, to me, looks better with a lot of bright white and green light. The last thing I added was mirror blades, which further enhanced all the lighting.
Yup, I added a 6-LED strip above each field light decal in the rear because that really makes it look like the decals are lights. I added a 3-LED strip under the Lock plastic and the photo has the light looking blown out, but in reality it lights up the yellow LOCK letters nicely. I did plan on adding spotlights, but now that the game is finished I'm not sure it needs any. Maybe one on the bottom of the left ramp return aimed at the Lock upper playfield area?
A green 3-LED strip and white 3-LED strip were added under the Final Draw scoop. Green is tied to the Final Draw insert and the white is tied to the TV Award insert, which added a nice effect during gameplay showing to shoot for the scoop when lit.
I also added decals on the standup targets and I try to do that on all my games because they add a nice finishing touch. And the mirror blades always add a nice clean appearance to any game.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Also got good results from the PBL brite mods pop bumper lights. Really brightens up the pops area.
That's really nice!
Might give that a try
Quoted from chuckwurt:I got good results from using a strip in the back to light up the decals backthere and brighten up the back of the game. Also got good results from the PBL brite mods pop bumper lights. Really brightens up the pops area.
I like these bumper caps in this game. While I'd never to that to my TZ, when I get this game these will go in. (However, I'm sorry, but that deep purple behind those inserts.. no thank you.. )
Quoted from Coyote:I like these bumper caps in this game. While I'd never to that to my TZ, when I get this game these will go in. (However, I'm sorry, but that deep purple behind those inserts.. no thank you.. )
Yeah I made a couple choices I wasn't thrilled about. Too lazy to change it. Haha.
Quoted from weaverj:"alt translites are for losers." - donald trump
It should be looo-sers!
Beginning to see the end on my restoration. Everything seem to be working, except my flippers. I tried with the switch test and I get no response at all when pushing the buttons. I put all five balls in to see if I got any response when starting a game (without any ramps and so on) and they were still dead. Put a ball in the assist hole and I couldn't get it to trigger either.
Could it be both flipper opto boards? I find it unlikely but it could be possible. Best way to test this? Any other theories? Thanks
Btw, I have a brand new rottendog power board in.
EDIT: Ok, so I replaced all fuses on the fliptronics board (I forgot about this board). Both flippers jumped up when I turned they game on. They fell back when it showed test report, I have no battery installed. I started a game and it wouldn't kick out any ball. I then turned the game off, and when turned on again, it shot an automatic fuse in my house.
A bad coil? Short circuit somewhere?
Quoted from aerobert:Beginning to see the end on my restoration. Everything seem to be working, except my flippers. I tried with the switch test and I get no response at all when pushing the buttons. I put all five balls in to see if I got any response when starting a game (without any ramps and so on) and they were still dead. Put a ball in the assist hole and I couldn't get it to trigger either.
Could it be both flipper opto boards? I find it unlikely but it could be possible. Best way to test this? Any other theories? Thanks
Btw, I have a brand new rottendog power board in.
EDIT: Ok, so I replaced all fuses on the fliptronics board (I forgot about this board). Both flippers jumped up when I turned they game on. They fell back when it showed test report, I have no battery installed. I started a game and it wouldn't kick out any ball. I then turned the game off, and when turned on again, it shot an automatic fuse in my house.
A bad coil? Short circuit somewhere?
Flipper coils are stuck on -
Check your ribbon cable connections,
Check TIP transistors on the fliptronics board,
and check any wiring, making sure the coil's drive wire isn't gounded.
Adding to the discussion about colored lights. I actually took a picture of my WCS today, to show that a little color is ok, without darkening the table, but I found that in the picture, it cam out very dark anyway. Pictures are not often a good representation of what the lighting looks like in person. My table is actually quite bright, but in the photo below, it looks dark, if you compare it to the video clip.
Mine has a few familiar customizations as well, including a soccer-foosball for the shooter bar knob, and 2 more at each ramp entrance. White led strips above the field lights, and in the drain hole. An additional light under the "LOCK" on the left side. Green disc style pop bumper LEDs, with downward white LEDs. 3 spot lights to fill in dark areas (see if you can spot them). Lit flipper buttons (blue), plus a lit magna-save (red) which is lit with the feature. Painted speaker grills. Colored LEDs for features, and white GI, except for under the ramps and the drain lanes, which are green. And last, but not least, mirror blades.
I plan to powder coat the coin toss and hamster cage in a deep yellow, but have not gotten to it yet. I HAD the Final Draw/TV Award hole lit in both red and blue for each feature, but removed it.
FYI: In this video, I credit GRC pinball for all their help, but I also want to thank EVERYONE in this group for all their help over the last year.
Photo makes the lighting look MUCH darker than it actually is.
Quoted from Coyote:Flipper coils are stuck on -
Check your ribbon cable connections,
Check TIP transistors on the fliptronics board,
and check any wiring, making sure the coil's drive wire isn't gounded.
There was a 5A fuse in F904 on the fliptronics board where it should be 3A all the way. It was over fused, which is a sign of...what? I'm guessing there is a burnt transistor or something on the Flipboard which perhaps is causing "stuck on" flippers?
Why it triggered my breaker in the house (which I think is 16A), I dont know.
EDIT: for anyhow interested in helping, I started a separate thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-coils-wont-work-and-machine-blows-fuse-what-to-do
Quoted from aerobert:There was a 5A fuse in F904 on the fliptronics board where it should be 3A all the way. It was over fused, which is a sign of...what? I'm guessing there is a burnt transistor or something on the Flipboard which perhaps is causing "stuck on" flippers?
Why it triggered my breaker in the house (which I think is 16A), I dont know.
EDIT: for anyhow interested in helping, I started a separate thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-coils-wont-work-and-machine-blows-fuse-what-to-do
The presence of the 5A fuse could be a lot of things. Probably, they did not have any 3A slow blow on hand, so they used a 5A. Was the 5A even a slow blow?
If you are tripping your breaker, what action is causing it? Turning on the machine? Pop bumpers? Flippers? (Sorry if you already posted this... I did not trace your thread back)
If a coil is bad, it could be shorting, causing the fuse to blow... The Fliptronic II board is pretty tough, and there is not much to it. It pretty much just steps up transisters until you get to higher voltage switching for the actual flippers. Also, on the flipper itself, there is a switch that closes when the flipper is up, so that it tells the fliptronic to lower the power to the flipper (shutting down part of the coil) which is just enough to hold the flipper up. If that switch is not closing, then that could be part of the problem.
3A slow blow fuses are easily found on Amazon or Ebay via Game Room Guys. Solenoids are also easy to find. Make sure you get the right power if you have to change them. I think that WCS takes the blue ones, though mine has blue on the left and yellow on the right... No idea why.
Edit: One other thing occurs to me... The Fliptronic II board also controls the 2 magnets. Oddly, the magnets are controlled by the lower(bottom) flippers on the fliptronic board, and the actual flippers by the upper(top) flippers on the board, as the board is designed for a 4 flipper system. Depending on the fuse you are having issues with, it could be one of the magnets causing the overload. The individual solenoid test should be able to determine this.
Does anyone else track their All-Time Record against Germany? I am 9 wins and 7 losses all time.
In a 3 game lineup with Shadow and EBD, it's always great to come back to. Kids love it!
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Does anyone else track their All-Time Record against Germany? I am 9 wins and 7 losses all time.
In a 3 game lineup with Shadow and EBD, it's always great to come back to. Kids love it!
After I got mine I kept track and wrote them down.
Not at home currently but will take a look to see what my record was.
Seems to me that your 9-7 is pretty good.
Quoted from rollitover:After I got mine I kept track and wrote them down.
Not at home currently but will take a look to see what my record was.
Seems to me that your 9-7 is pretty good.
I'm 0-1.
Quoted from rollitover:After I got mine I kept track and wrote them down.
I use the Pinside scores feature to input all of my scores that I played Germany. I would lose track of paper! Lol. Next thing I need to do is add up all the goals for and goals against.
PS...just lost. All-Time record now 9-8 after losing 4-2 this afternoon.
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