(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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  • 739 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by AlexRogan84
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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There are 8,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 58 of 170.
#2851 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If ALL row 8 is out - INCLUDING the start button - then you have a friend transistor on the power board, as the cabinet lights are from a different plug than playfield, and a broken wire on playfield won't affect cabinet plug.

Yes they are ALL out including the Start Button. Damn. Thanks again, Coyote.

How does one go about fixing/locating a bad transistor? Send the board off?

#2852 7 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Yes they are ALL out including the Start Button. Damn. Thanks again, Coyote.
How does one go about fixing/locating a bad transistor? Send the board off?

Don't get carried away, and thinking it's more serious than it is. Use a multi meter, and remove the connector from the board. Check for 6.3V on the 2 pins that those colored wires go to, and see if you have power at the board. Then, if there is, work out from there, and track until you find where your loss is. If no power, then check the block of 5 fuses right above where the connector is. They should all be 250V 3amp slow blow.

I had a string of lights out on mine, and it turned out to be a loose connection on the molex connector at the board. Check you connectors for discoloration and burn marks... Could be that your connector is shot. Do you have LEDs in it? If not, then it's still running pretty high power. LEDs reduce the draw, and keep further head damage from occurring.

#2853 7 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

if someone has a picture of the lamp in Striker's Hideout wired up, that would be helpful too. Thanks everyone!

When I got my WCS, the header plastic, striker billboard, and light were all missing. There was just a cut off harness under the table, but the posts were still on top. I never liked the way the socket was mounted behind the billboard... Seemed like a hack. I came up with a new hack instead. I attached my lamp socket, with a zip tie, to the right goal post. This allows the light to stick out through the hole, and look more like the buy ticket billboards on the ramps. Not that you need to do it this way, but I thought I would share how I did it. The light comes through at a slight angle, but you don't notice that during game play, or the zip tie... Or the rust on the goal posts, that I never noticed until I just took these pictures.

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#2854 7 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Don't get carried away, and thinking it's more serious than it is. Use a multi meter, and remove the connector from the board. Check for 6.3V on the 2 pins that those colored wires go to, and see if you have power at the board. Then, if there is, work out from there, and track until you find where your loss is. If no power, then check the block of 5 fuses right above where the connector is. They should all be 250V 3amp slow blow.
I had a string of lights out on mine, and it turned out to be a loose connection on the molex connector at the board. Check you connectors for discoloration and burn marks... Could be that your connector is shot. Do you have LEDs in it? If not, then it's still running pretty high power. LEDs reduce the draw, and keep further head damage from occurring.

If both start button AND playfield lights are affected, it's upstream of the connector - since those use two *different* connectors. (Yeah, it's possbile BOTH connectors need work, but unlikely. ) Controlled lamp connectors rarely burn - not enough constant amperage to brown the molex/IDC terminals, unfortunately.

#2855 7 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

Thanks Flash for answering both questions! Do you remember what size rivets are used?

Different sizes for ramps VS that coin toss return. I ended up buying a whole bunch of different sizes

#2856 7 years ago

Hello all,
My WCS is not able to kick the ball up the VUK if there is more than one ball in the goal during the various multiball modes. It works fine when there is only one ball in the VUK. If two happen to go in the goal quickly during multiball the VUK tries and tries but the ball never can make it up.
Anyone else have this happen to them? Thanks.

#2857 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If both start button AND playfield lights are affected, it's upstream of the connector - since those use two *different* connectors. (Yeah, it's possbile BOTH connectors need work, but unlikely. ) Controlled lamp connectors rarely burn - not enough constant amperage to brown the molex/IDC terminals, unfortunately.

Any idea which transistor I should look at for this issue?

#2858 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If both start button AND playfield lights are affected, it's upstream of the connector - since those use two *different* connectors. (Yeah, it's possbile BOTH connectors need work, but unlikely. ) Controlled lamp connectors rarely burn - not enough constant amperage to brown the molex/IDC terminals, unfortunately.

Yes, good catch... I know the start button is on the matrix, but forgot it's on a different connector. You are also correct that controlled light connectors are unlikely to burn, like GI light connectors, but it has been known to happen.

So, assume the problem is on the board... How do you troubleshoot that? Or, do you just buy a new board?

#2859 7 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

So, assume the problem is on the board... How do you troubleshoot that? Or, do you just buy a new board?

That's what I am wondering.

#2860 7 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Yes, good catch... I know the start button is on the matrix, but forgot it's on a different connector. You are also correct that controlled light connectors are unlikely to burn, like GI light connectors, but it has been known to happen.
So, assume the problem is on the board... How do you troubleshoot that? Or, do you just buy a new board?

True! Especially with a shorted row or column and a fuse the wrong size! (Seen it before..!)

If yoh HAVE another WPC game, swap boards. That's the easiest way.

If not, get a multimeter, and find one of the lights on the playfield. Measure voltage from each lead to ground. (Yellow wire and red wire.) The row wire should NOT give you a good voltage. The column wire SHOULD. Then, do the same test at the row pin on the board's header. Again, you should not get voltage.

Assuming above is correct, there are a couple more things you can try, but the best step wouldbe to get a logic probe.

#2861 7 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

Discovered on mine that one of the metal arms was bend outwards preventing the ball to completely roll back close to the tip of the rod.

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#2862 7 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Discovered on mine that one of the metal arms was bend outwards preventing the ball to completely roll back close to the tip of the rod.

Awesome, I'll have to look at that. Something just seems slightly off on it, hopefully that's it. I'll try cleaning it tonight as well.

#2863 7 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

On another note, anyone have a tried and true method for transferring and attaching the riveted metal pieces to new plastics (Striker's Hideout and the ball guide on the right slingshot plastic)? I did a little research, but haven't bought tools or rivets yet.

I found this page very helpful :
http://home.earthlink.net/~billg4me/pinball/rivet/

#2864 7 years ago

Re. Riveting. I found that the easiest, most reliable and most economical method is used by Ray in his tech tips. Watch from minute 24 onwards. All you need is a pointy cone shaped punch and a flat punch. Available very cheap at any auto parts or tool shop. After struggling with all sort of specialised tools I could not believe how well this method worked and how good the final result looked.

#2865 7 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Re. Riveting. I found that the easiest, most reliable and most economical method is used by Ray in his tech tips.

I agree completely. I have watched ALL of the Ray's Tech Tips videos, and have found them extremely valuable, once you get past Mike's foul mouth and crappy attitude. I know there is bad blood between them and Pinside, and between them and TNT, and between them and [insert random pinball group here]. But I still love them. The respond to comments and questions on their videos, and their prime directive it to do everything with the highest level of quality they can. I was just re-watching #25.1 yesterday, where they are talking about cleaning the circuit boards, and comparing static bands to the "no cell phone" signs at the gas pumps. I was stinking a mt. dew at the time, and it went up my nose.

Also... They have *never* recommended a flower border around the back box!

#2866 7 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Also... They have *never* recommended a flower border around the back box!

That soccer ball "flower" border is soooo 70's. Love and peace to all my sisters and brothers! ⚽

#2867 7 years ago

Just in the club with a really great specimen!

I was looking at other Popadiuk's games and in every one he comes with great toys to bash; CV ringmaster, TOM box, TOTAM genie, etc,,,

Is the goalie in WSC looks cheap to you? I would have imagine a 3D goaler with maybe a sweet spot between legs or big gloves. Something more...Wow?

a random decal on a random plastic look financial décision for me

However, I own lots of games and played many more. This one is a Gem. The lightshow, rollovers, magnets and a friendly gameplay is what I love about Jpop games

This one is a keeper!

#2868 7 years ago

Has anyone had problems with left ramp rejects? I got my diverter working properly, however, I now get rejects when the diverter is pointing the ball to go left...it makes it all the way to the top of the ramp past the diverter, then comes back down (like it has so much velocity, it just bashes the ramp back instead of rounding the curve). Thanks

#2869 7 years ago

RE: Riveting, where do you guys actually buy the semi-tubular rivets? In the link I provided earlier, the author purchased them from Hanson Rivet & Supply Co, though he mentioned that they have a 25$ minimum order. I figured small packs could be purchased off Ebay or Amazon, but haven't had any luck finding them. Thanks!

#2870 7 years ago

This vendor has lots of them in all sort of sizes at very good prices. I have bought from them and the rivets are good.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301791692701

You don't want the truss head style but the rounded head.

#2871 7 years ago

I wasn't able to find a post that covered this specifically, but about 10 pages ago there was some discussion about nylon washers.

What do you guys think are the most useful sizes to buy? Most of what I've found are metric sizes on eBay. Would like a variety to handle plastic protection and also spacer duty where needed.

Any other better sources?

Thanks!

#2872 7 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Has anyone had problems with left ramp rejects? I got my diverter working properly, however, I now get rejects when the diverter is pointing the ball to go left...it makes it all the way to the top of the ramp past the diverter, then comes back down (like it has so much velocity, it just bashes the ramp back instead of rounding the curve). Thanks

Do you have any chips or cracks in the ramp at the top? Mine is cracked and would do the same thing you are describing. I did a quick fix by putting a few layers of masking tape over the crack to smooth it out. Works fine now with no rejects.

#2873 7 years ago

This master rivet kit from PinRestore should fill all your riveting needs for a long time:
http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

#2874 7 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I wasn't able to find a post that covered this specifically, but about 10 pages ago there was some discussion about nylon washers.
What do you guys think are the most useful sizes to buy? Most of what I've found are metric sizes on eBay. Would like a variety to handle plastic protection and also spacer duty where needed.
Any other better sources?
Thanks!

I actually make those . I use the 25 mm/1 inch for all sling shots and a mix of the 22 mm and 19 mm for most other applications. Best price and indestructible.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/38638

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#2875 7 years ago

Hey who had that WCS with purple powder coating? Looked amazing! Remember seeing it on Pinside, but can't remember where it was.
Anyone have a link? Thanks!

Edit- was it purple or green? Anyway anyone powder coat their WCS? Need some ideas.

#2876 7 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Hey who had that WCS with purple powder coating? Looked amazing! Remember seeing it on Pinside, but can't remember where it was.
Anyone have a link? Thanks!
Edit- was it purple or green? Anyway anyone powder coat their WCS? Need some ideas.

Original legs were gold....can't go wrong w brass....super happy w mine.....posted pics a few pages back, but can shoot a couple tomorrow, if needed...

#2877 7 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Original legs were gold....can't go wrong w brass....super happy w mine.....posted pics a few pages back, but can shoot a couple tomorrow, if needed...

Right they were gold. My friend is looking to go in the powder coating direction and someone did their WCS with Purple I believe and it came out fantastic. I just can't find the pic he posted.

#2878 7 years ago

Does anyone have LEDs in their game? If so what brand and are you using an OCD board too? Finally making the upgrade on my machine. My goalie is very loud, much louder than others I've seen on location. Going to get a new goalie motor and hope it fixes that.

#2879 7 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

someone did their WCS with Purple I believe and it came out fantastic. I just can't find the pic he posted.

Agreed....I saw that too...looked great. It's in this thread somewhere ( think a couple times)....hopefully, they post again....

#2880 7 years ago

Its in the powder coated pins thread.

#2881 7 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Does anyone have LEDs in their game? If so what brand and are you using an OCD board too? Finally making the upgrade on my machine. My goalie is very loud, much louder than others I've seen on location. Going to get a new goalie motor and hope it fixes that.

Did not use the OCD board in mine. Really do not think it needs it. There is no significant differences in led brands. Much more important to get the right type. For all playfield applications shining through the cut outs go for flat top 5050 super bright leds in the corresponding colour. The best GI lamps are twin leds with serrated cap.
Back box again go for 5050 flat tops.
I used some colour leds on the white cut outs.

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#2882 7 years ago

mine are purple not sure if there the ones your referring to

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#2883 7 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Agreed....I saw that too...looked great. It's in this thread somewhere ( think a couple times)....hopefully, they post again....

There is a link to view all the images posted in a thread at the top of each page (it's called "Topic Gallery", see screenshot below). I noticed this for the first time a few weeks ago. Not sure if it is new, and I am pretty good at not seeing stuff that is right in front of my face. Anyway, it is a quick way to browse for pictures people posted.

It's also useful in the powder-coated and Titan threads if you want to skip all the jibber jabber and go straight to the money shots. Flash's WCS restoration thread is a nice gallery of pinball porn too

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#2884 7 years ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

mine are purple not sure if there the ones your referring to

Yeah. That looks good! Thanks for reposting! Didn't you and a friend do the painting job on that and others? If so even more Wow!

#2885 7 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Did not use the OCD board in mine. Really do not think it needs it. There is no significant differences in led brands. Much more important to get the right type. For all playfield applications shining through the cut outs go for flat top 5050 super bright leds in the corresponding colour. The best GI lamps are twin leds with serrated cap.
Back box again go for 5050 flat tops.
I used some colour leds on the white cut outs.

Got any pictures of your backbox with the 5050 FT's installed?

#2886 7 years ago

Installing the PinballBulbs kit in my WCS. The kit doesn't seem to have come with any GI/insert flashers. Is this to be expected or should these have been included? Do folks generally replace the incandescent flashers with LED?

#2887 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Got any pictures of your backbox with the 5050 FT's installed?

I used a combination of white, warm white and green. Warm white is great behind yellow or gold.

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#2888 7 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

Installing the PinballBulbs kit in my WCS. The kit doesn't seem to have come with any GI/insert flashers. Is this to be expected or should these have been included? Do folks generally replace the incandescent flashers with LED?

Definitely. The difference is significant. I use 8 smd flashers on flex base. That way I can direct them where ever I want. Very important as many of them are mounted sideways.

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#2889 7 years ago

The plastic trim / channel piece that the bottom of the speaker panel fits into in the backbox, what is that called? I am looking for a new one and am having trouble finding it.

Thank you all

#2890 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyo5050:

The plastic trim / channel piece that the bottom of the speaker panel fits into in the backbox, what is that called? I am looking for a new one and am having trouble finding it.
Thank you all

That would be the lift trim.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8229-1

#2891 7 years ago

Hi guys, I just got a new set of plastics and there is a protective piece that I don't know where to put. This part wasn't on my WCS when I got it, so I don't have a reference. I looked at multiple pics of the game online and still had no luck.
If one of you could take a look at your machine and let me know where this thing goes, I would really appreciate it!!

Thanks in advance

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#2892 7 years ago

From memory, but I'm pretty sure that piece goes along the side of the coin toss assembly.

#2893 7 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

From memory, but I'm pretty sure that piece goes along the side of the coin toss assembly.

THank you! Once I read your post I went and looked a few more pics very closely, and I can see where the thing goes. Really appreciate it!

#2894 7 years ago

Thats bottom of translite i need bottom of speaker panel.

#2895 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyo5050:

Thats bottom of translite i need bottom of speaker panel.

You looking for the U shaped trim piece that is screwed to the bottom of the back box and cradles the entire wood panel that the speakers are housed in?? If so you want Speaker Panel Bracket 01-8569

#2896 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

You looking for the U shaped trim piece that is screwed to the bottom of the back box and cradles the entire wood panel that the speakers are housed in?? If so you want Speaker Panel Bracket 01-8569

That would be the part. Knowing the part number i still cant find anyone who sells it though. Not sure why it seems to be hard to find.

#2897 7 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Has anyone had problems with left ramp rejects? I got my diverter working properly, however, I now get rejects when the diverter is pointing the ball to go left...it makes it all the way to the top of the ramp past the diverter, then comes back down (like it has so much velocity, it just bashes the ramp back instead of rounding the curve). Thanks

Has this been solved? Of all 2000 posts this is the most interesting really. I'm staring at WCS trying to figure out what your problem is

#2898 7 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

From the picture you provided red wire top / yellow wire bottom

Hey all, I finally got around to fixing this. Does anyone know how the diode runs across the lamp socket? Using the orientation and colors in my picture, does it run from red wire terminal to the yellow wire terminal with the white band on the yellow terminal side? Or does someone have a picture of theirs wired up? Thanks in advance for the help.

strikers_hideout_wiring (resized).jpgstrikers_hideout_wiring (resized).jpg

#2899 7 years ago
Quoted from Nighthawk128:

Has this been solved? Of all 2000 posts this is the most interesting really. I'm staring at WCS trying to figure out what your problem is

I don't know if this is your fix, but worked for me....my left ramp diverter was working perfectly ( new bottom bushing, proper spring tension, etc., but the ball would occasionally either " stick" at the top of the ramp ( at diverter), or come shooting back down.

Turned out it was the shape of the bottom flage of the diverter itself. I took it out, and bent the bottom of the flange in by about 1/8" ( did it with my vise so very precise and uniform bend.

Machine plays great, and have had no further issues....just a thought...

#2900 7 years ago
Quoted from Nighthawk128:

Has this been solved? Of all 2000 posts this is the most interesting really. I'm staring at WCS trying to figure out what your problem is

In my case, it was that my ramp was cracked at the back some, causing it to flex and reject the ball. After making the fix (glue + tape) I haven't gotten a reject since.

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