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(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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  • 6,017 posts
  • 545 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by KSUWildcatFan
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders

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There are 6017 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 121.
#2801 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Scroll about halfway down the page in the link below until you see the WPC High Voltage Repair Kit. That is what you need to rebuild the entire HV section of that board. It includes the two large Capacitors.
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

I already tried using my HV pinball life board with no sucess.

#2802 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I already tried using my HV pinball life board with no sucess.

Yeah, I'm willing to put money down it's not on the HV section of the board - otherwise, you wouldn't be getting ANYTHING on the panel.

#2803 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

If anyone needs side art for their head snatch this up before it's gone. Decent priced too.
ebay.com link ยป Pinball World Cup 94 Soccer Back Box Decals New Parts

Forget that, the artwork is no where close to the original. All you have to do is ask nicely
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs-restoration-journal/page/2#post-2893534

#2804 4 years ago

Check out my new topper! I came across this night light/ wall light on ebay. It goes perfectly with my soccer ball stencil speakers. It uses 3 x 1.5V batteries so I hooked it up to the machines 6V. It's fun to find new and interesting soccer ball themed items to add to the machine.

20160828_224430 (resized).jpg

20160828_224438 (resized).jpg

#2805 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Check out my new topper! I came across this night light/ wall light on ebay. It goes perfectly with my soccer ball stencil speakers. It uses 3 x 1.5V batteries so I hooked it up to the machines 6V. It's fun to find new and interesting soccer ball themed items to add to the machine.

Have you modified it to light with led strips from the GI circuits? It would also be fun to put led flashers (possibly green) in it for when there is a goal. Would be pretty easy to do, and you could have the wiring come out the back of the back box, as opposed to drilling any holes.

#2806 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Check out my new topper! I came across this night light/ wall light on ebay. It goes perfectly with my soccer ball stencil speakers. It uses 3 x 1.5V batteries so I hooked it up to the machines 6V. It's fun to find new and interesting soccer ball themed items to add to the machine.

Now that's awesome!!

#2807 4 years ago

Question: Are there any known power sources on WCS that are only on when the game is in play? GI is on all the time, and all of the feature lights are controlled on the matrix. Are there any switched on at game start? I am thinking that if there are, they are likely off of the board below the left flipper, but that's just a guess.

#2808 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Have you modified it to light with led strips from the GI circuits? It would also be fun to put led flashers (possibly green) in it for when there is a goal. Would be pretty easy to do, and you could have the wiring come out the back of the back box, as opposed to drilling any holes.

Hey that's a great idea! At the moment I am only using the original leds of the lamp. I have to check if any of the back board flashers go off during a goal. If yes it would be a super easy job. Will post a video once I am done.

#2809 4 years ago

Anyone here need a replacement WCS 94 ramp? FreePlay40 is doing some excellent work, and if there is enough interest, he could make some ramps for us. Post a request to his Freeplay40 ramps thread and let's see what happens.

#2810 4 years ago

i need the top ramp, i suppose. still looking for a left slingshot, too.

#2811 4 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Anyone here need a replacement WCS 94 ramp? FreePlay40 is doing some excellent work, and if there is enough interest, he could make some ramps for us. Post a request to his Freeplay40 ramps thread and let's see what happens.

If it happens it won't be any time soon because he needs a bigger setup for it to fit into. I already posted the same offer as you to members here a few pages back but no one seemed interested except for me. Heck, If I need to pay more just to get one done for myself only so be it.

#2812 4 years ago

I started doing a topside teardown of my WCS for the first time tonight. As I was taking the right ramp off I noticed a picture of a cat on the part of the ramp at the back right of the playfield. Anyone know if there is a story behind this?

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#2813 4 years ago

I had a look and i got a Kitty on mine too? Very interesting! Would love to know the story behind this.

#2814 4 years ago

More soccer ball features. Framing the back box.

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#2815 4 years ago

is that a soccer game? i can't tell .

#2816 4 years ago

Almost looks like a flower border from a distance.

I dig the topper though. Although with my alt translite having a large soccer ball on it, I think it would be overkill for my game. So glad I ditched that dumb dog Striker. haha

#2817 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

More soccer ball features. Framing the back box.

God why? LOL

#2818 4 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

I started doing a topside teardown of my WCS for the first time tonight. As I was taking the right ramp off I noticed a picture of a cat on the part of the ramp at the back right of the playfield. Anyone know if there is a story behind this?

That's Arthur, JPop hides him in all his games.

#2819 4 years ago

I like to keep the soccer ball sticker printers in business!
Funny I actually do not like soccer as a sport lol - but I love this pinball.

#2820 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I like to keep the soccer ball sticker printers in business!
Funny I actually do not like soccer as a sport lol - but I love this pinball.

I did not like soccer at all either. My son started playing and I can watch him, but on TV or whatever? No thanks.

Like you, though, I LOVE this game. In fact, it's one of the only machines I have ever bought twice because after I sold it I missed it so much...

#2821 4 years ago

deleted.

#2822 4 years ago

deleted.

#2823 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

More soccer ball features. Framing the back box.

OK... Seriously? You did this AFTER you told me that putting the soccer foosball mods by BOTH ramps was "overkill"?

Have you done anything with making the soccer pin topper interactive? I may pick up one of those night lights from Target and do mine too... Had thought about it many times, but had not figured out what I would do with lighting mods in it. It could be fun to make it flash in different colors.

#2824 4 years ago

Im giving flash my first thumbs down. Soccer rocks and the more soccer related bling on WCS the better

#2825 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

If it happens it won't be any time soon because he needs a bigger setup for it to fit into. I already posted the same offer as you to members here a few pages back but no one seemed interested except for me. Heck, If I need to pay more just to get one done for myself only so be it.

Ah. I thought he built the larger oven quite a while ago... didn't he post pictures of it? Still curious that there is not more interest from this crowd...

#2826 4 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Ah. I thought he built the larger oven quite a while ago... didn't he post pictures of it? Still curious that there is not more interest from this crowd...

Some of us have interest, but read that he doesn't have his larger machine ready yet, so have stayed quiet.

#2827 4 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Ah. I thought he built the larger oven quite a while ago... didn't he post pictures of it? Still curious that there is not more interest from this crowd...

See pictures of his big rig: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps?tq=larger&tu#post-3073762

#2828 4 years ago

As per him, about another large ramp (TZ)..:

Quoted from Freeplay40:

I think the big one will have to wait for the new bigger machine.

When he gets to it, he'll get to it.

#2829 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK... Seriously? You did this AFTER you told me that putting the soccer foosball mods by BOTH ramps was overkill

Hahaha you got me ! I admit it's an addiction lol.

Yes I'm waiting for some 12V led strips to arrive to hook them up to the back box flashers. I want a green flash light show everytime I shoot a goal.

#2830 4 years ago

I have owned two of these and both pins came with soccer ball that was colored in with the black Sharpie. Lol

#2831 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Yes I'm waiting for some 12V led strips to arrive to hook them up to the back box flashers. I want a green flash light show everytime I shoot a goal.

OK, so the flashers are 12V instead of 6.3V?
Are you going to use the white 6V led strips off the GI to light it from the machine, and then do green flashers?
What flashers did you order? Got a link?

I will likely do the same thing, since it was my idea. (the soccer topper, not the flower backbox border)

#2832 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK, so the flashers are 12V instead of 6.3V?
Are you going to use the white 6V led strips off the GI to light it from the machine, and then do green flashers?
What flashers did you order? Got a link?
I will likely do the same thing, since it was my idea. (the soccer topper, not the flower backbox border)

Flashers are driven with 20v actually, but the LEDs are resistor'd for 12v. (Same as 906/89 bulbs..!) So LEDs/bulbs are expecting 12v, but get shot with 20v. Hence, the super brightness.

#2833 4 years ago

Here is a video of the topper with a 20 cm long green 12V led strip as flasher installed. They are 5050 single green colour 12V led strips which you can find plenty of on ebay. I soldered the strip to one of the back box flashers. The 12V flashers have a black lamp holder and the 6V lamps have white lamp holders.

The white constantly on light is a 20 cm 6V 5050 led strip (which I sell) soldered to a 6V back box lamp.

20160904_170748 (resized).jpg

#2834 4 years ago

Can anyone confirm if the diverter coil actually uses a coil sleeve and if so which sleeve? Last bit to figure out from my resto.

#2835 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Can anyone confirm if the diverter coil actually uses a coil sleeve and if so which sleeve? Last bit to figure out from my resto.

The manual, on page 2-34, does not show or make mention of any sleeve for this coil. For the flippers, and other coils, it does list them. Since the sleeve is specifically mentioned for other coils, and not for the diverter, then I would say the answer is no. Also, if there was supposed to be a sleeve, and you did not have one, you would know, because the pin would just kind of flop around inside the coil.

It IS important to have the recoil spring on that coil, and proper bushings on the diverter shaft. This has been covered many times, but I recommend using nylon washers on top (between the diverter and the ramp) and also under the table (between the actuator arm, and the playfield) to pick up the slack, and keep the diverter from destroying the ramp. The manual will make no mention of these washers, but it's a good idea to add them, and your diverter will function much smoother, with less wear.

#2836 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

The manual, on page 2-34, does not show or make mention of any sleeve for this coil. For the flippers, and other coils, it does list them. Since the sleeve is specifically mentioned for other coils, and not for the diverter, then I would say the answer is no. Also, if there was supposed to be a sleeve, and you did not have one, you would know, because the pin would just kind of flop around inside the coil.
It IS important to have the recoil spring on that coil, and proper bushings on the diverter shaft. This has been covered many times, but I recommend using nylon washers on top (between the diverter and the ramp) and also under the table (between the actuator arm, and the playfield) to pick up the slack, and keep the diverter from destroying the ramp. The manual will make no mention of these washers, but it's a good idea to add them, and your diverter will function much smoother, with less wear.

I wonder if that's what is happening to mine. I reassembled my game a few days ago, and the divertor isn't very smooth or working 100%, I bet I'm missing a washer at the top. It only works like 75% of the time right now, the spring doesn't always take it back like it should.

#2837 4 years ago

I've got the washer at the top but it doesn't want to come back to it's original position.. Can someone take a shot of their diverter assembly under the PF? *nevermind found some on this thread*

#2838 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I've got the washer at the top but it doesn't want to come back to it's original position.. Can someone take a shot of their diverter assembly under the PF?

Does your coil have the recoil spring?
Check out the images on page 45 of this thread. There are a couple closeup shots. There is one spring recoil spring on the pin to push it back out of the coil, and there is a 2nd spring connecting the pin to the actuator arm, to protect from jams, probably.

#2839 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Does your coil have the recoil spring?
Check out the images on page 45 of this thread. There are a couple closeup shots. There is one spring recoil spring on the pin to push it back out of the coil, and there is a 2nd spring connecting the pin to the actuator arm, to protect from jams, probably.

Bet you anything I'm missing that spring on the arm...will have to look tonight.

#2840 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Bet you anything I'm missing that spring on the arm...will have to look tonight.

It's probably on the bottom of your machine, maybe stuck to the speaker magnet, from when it fell off when you took the assembly apart.

Remember: Never... wait....... ALWAYS take pictures before you take it apart!

#2841 4 years ago

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

#2842 4 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

Would like to know too.

#2843 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Would like to know too.

I probably hit the third skill shot more than I would like to, so maybe try a new spring? The manual lists the spring part number as 10-148-4, but higher tension springs are sold too. Or maybe something is misaligned somewhere?

On another note, anyone have a tried and true method for transferring and attaching the riveted metal pieces to new plastics (Striker's Hideout and the ball guide on the right slingshot plastic)? I did a little research, but haven't bought tools or rivets yet.

While I'm at it, if someone has a picture of the lamp in Striker's Hideout wired up, that would be helpful too. Thanks everyone!

20160906_204537 (resized).jpg
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#2844 4 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

On another note, anyone have a tried and true method for transferring and attaching the riveted metal pieces to new plastics (Striker's Hideout and the ball guide on the right slingshot plastic)? I did a little research, but haven't bought tools or rivets yet.

This was my solution and it worked great I ended riveting pretty much everything on the game with this thing.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs-restoration-journal/page/4#post-3249963

Quoted from mattmarr:

While I'm at it, if someone has a picture of the lamp in Striker's Hideout wired up, that would be helpful too. Thanks everyone!

From the picture you provided red wire top / yellow wire bottom

#2845 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

This was my solution and it worked great I ended riveting pretty much everything on the game with this thing.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs-restoration-journal/page/4#post-3249963

From the picture you provided red wire top / yellow wire bottom

Thanks Flash for answering both questions! Do you remember what size rivets are used?

#2846 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

I do have a DMM but I am pretty new to this. How would I go about testing voltage at different points to isolate the problem? I am having a hard time understanding where the row 8 wire starts and stops. It looks like there are 2 red-gray wires? One plugged into J-134 and one at J-135. There is also another red-gray wire on the board next to the coin door in the cabinet. I tried to test continuity from J-134/J-135 to the different lamps on row 8, but nothing.

Bumping this question. Still puzzled as to why my entire row 8 is out. Should there be continuity from J-134/135 to the lamps in row 8?

#2847 4 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

Lubrication and/or new sleeve and spring (the INSIDE spring). You may need to replace your shooter rod as well.

#2848 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Bumping this question. Still puzzled as to why my entire row 8 is out. Should there be continuity from J-134/135 to the lamps in row 8?

Yes. Otherwise, how would Row 8 work?

Likely, the wire came unsoldered/broke at one of the first lamp sockets. (Likely the high star roll-over.)

#2849 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes. Otherwise, how would Row 8 work?
Likely, the wire came unsoldered/broke at one of the first lamp sockets. (Likely the high star roll-over.)

Thanks, Coyote. But this is row 8 (not column 8). Which is why I am confused. The first lamps in the row are on the lamp board under the playfield (Detroit, left ticket half). Seems like those wires are connected well to the lamp board itself. I assume that the issue would not be on the individual socket for these lamps? There is continuity between the lamp board and the next lamps in that row. But because all of the lamps are out in the row, that points to the issue being with the first lamps in the row, correct?
c2300933830ffec9f8ba2c09a64ab48765000172 (resized).png

#2850 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Thanks, Coyote. But this is row 8 (not column 8). Which is why I am confused. The first lamps in the row are on the lamp board under the playfield (Detroit, left ticket half). Seems like those wires are connected well to the lamp board itself. I assume that the issue would not be on the individual socket for these lamps? There is continuity between the lamp board and the next lamps in that row. But because all of the lamps are out in the row, that points to the issue being with the first lamps in the row, correct?

D'oh, sorry.. Looking at Row 8, then yes - likely the first lamp that the wire gets to is Tackle. (I'm guessing here, based on usual wiring of WMS games..)

If ALL row 8 is out - INCLUDING the start button - then you have a friend transistor on the power board, as the cabinet lights are from a different plug than playfield, and a broken wire on playfield won't affect cabinet plug.

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