Stupid me...

I was working on my WCS last night, working on lighting the final draw hole (blue when tv award, red when final draw). Had it all done, and then it was acting really squirly. I disconnected it all, and decided I would scrap the idea... But while driving to work this morning, it dawned on me that I had both lamp sockets mounted on the drop hole bracket, which is metal. So, both lights were sharing the same ground, but as you know, those lights are on a matrix. Oops!

Rule of thumb... If you are adding any lighting to a pin, make sure you are not grounding to anything!!!

The lighted hole DID look really good in both red and blue. I can't wait to re-connect them after re-position and mount to wood only, under the table.

I know a few others have lighted the hole... Not sure how they did it, but I am using a #44 socket, and have a #44 double flex light. being able to aim the 2 elements, you get a great effect. I have a double red on one side, and a double blue on the other, and the solenoid pin kind of fires in between them.

I went to Office Depot and had them print the cards on thick, high quality paper. I also used their really nice cutting table to cut them to size, as well as clear plastic sheets to cover the cards when on the machine. They also did the printing and binding of my service manual, from the pdf I had. Last, I had them print copies of the original brochures, and instruction sheets. They did a really good job on all of it, and the total cost for everything above was under $40. Not bad, considering the manual was big, and had a nice cover and binding.

i went to staples. publisher seemed to keep the dimensions best.

I used short LED strips and just clipped them to each lamp and then secured in place using since they have adhesive backing on them. Done and done.

I may change my strategy and do that instead... good thinkin!

I happened to have extras on hand that I ordered from Comet I think. Each strip comes with adapters for clips, wedge and bayonet sockets. I had a spare blue and green strip on hand so those are the colors I used. Blue paint tape works well to block light from creeping into any nearby inserts too. Can make a little tape wall around the strips to prevent light leakage

I just received the decals in the mail from an eBay seller. I think they look sharp, especially the Free Kick decal.

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Wow! Had it humming today...played Germany twice. Won 5-4OT and lost 7-2. Hit a ton a victory laps and was racking up the points. #15 score on Pinside!!!! Just when I think I'm tired of it, it pulls me right back in!!!!

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OK... I ordered the short led strips from comet and used the alligator clips. I immediately removed them. Those things ghost like crazy, plus, I have decided that attaching with clips is a horrible idea. Additionally, the adhesiver was not gooe, and they were too bulky to work for lighting the popout hole. Light was also bleeding through other inserts in the area. I am going back to my original plan of using the 2 tail #44 flex lights, and soldering.
I have used led strips for other things, and had good luck, but for this application, it did not work at all. It was a good learning experience, and I am only out $10 for the stips with shipping.

I can't find them....link?

Maybe the strips I have aren't from Comet then, because the white strip and the green strip I'm using now don't ghost at all. I used blue paint tape and stuck them in place no problemo. Also use the tape to wall around the strips so the Free Kick insert doesn't show any of the light thru. I always use the clips on my games and never had an issue either, they aren't going to just fall off or anything.

ebay.com link: itm

Wait, I forgot I am running a non-ghosting patched ROM, so that's likely why my LED strips don't ghost. Pretty sure they are from Comet.

Installed an alternate translite today to see about ditching the Striker dog.

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Thanks!!!....just ordered a set......mark

One on Pinside in CT just reduced to $2100.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-cup-soccer-bally-1994-2015#post-3278139

Looking for a WCS, just in case anyone in the club is looking to get rid of one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/38285

GL with your hunt....they seem to come up frequently......something about this machine......just pure, easy fun....it really is a great title, imho.....

Great score! Don't think I've ever top 5B before.

Monster score!

Digikey - search "1N4001" or "1N4004".

X 2 WCS 94 for me

No. A 4004 can support higher amperage than a 4001. However, the switch matrix uses extremely little amperage, so either one will work fine.

Anyone have a set of speaker templates from Pinballbulbs.com? They are currently OOS. Happy to Paypal you the shipping cost. PM me.

Looking for a "header" plastic and the plastic that goes under and alongside the left ramp. Can be used and cracked, just looking for ones that aren't broken. Rather not buy new if possible. I'll actually leave that ramp plastic broken instead of wasting $$ on a new one since I can't see it when playing, but would like to have an intact header plastic.

This is that other plastic:

ebay.com link: GENUINE NOS world cup soccer 94 playfield plastic 31 1925 21

Light boards rarely go bad. The diode on them may have gone, but even that's unlikely. Do they work in test mode?

Bypass the diode - connect a jumper from one lead of the diode to the other. If you get any bright light, then the diode is bad. If you get dim, or glowing light, then the diode isn't the issue.

Are you getting any voltage on your DMD? Any voltage form the board? Connectivity between board and connectors? It could be so many things...

Pretty sure there's an adjustment for it, but the default like you have it is actually harder. When you set it to take two balls in the lock diverter, multiball starts when you plunge. Or at least that's how a friend of mine had his set up a few years back. Keep digging around in Adjustments and you should find it. Or maybe try one of the installs if that's an option. Also, make sure you have the latest ROM.

No. Lock stays lit after the first ball is locked.

My recollection is no. But poke around -- you might find a setting you like anyhow.

For your Ultra Ramps issue, I think you are looking for a complicated fix for a simple problem. Let's start over from the beginning...

Start with the tests... Go into the Test menu, to T.8 Single lamp test. Got to light 56 (location 78). Are your lamps flashing? I am assuming that they will not, but this is a good starting place.

My best guess is that you have a broken wire on the way to your lamps.

Again, these lights are on the lamp matrix in column 7, row 8. So, use the tests to determine if anything else in column 7 is out. Then, look at everything else in row 8. If anything else is out, then your problem is further up stream.

So, column 7 is the Green wire with the Violet stripe, and row 8 is the White wire with the Grey stripe. Begin tracing the green wire first, from where it connects to the boards (molex connector) to it's source, which is going to be another light named in that same row. You should also trace the Grey wire, which will lead to another lamp named in that same column.

Odds are that you simply have a broken wire, far from the billboards where the problem is showing. This theory is inforced by the fact that BOTH ramp lights are out. One of the ramp lights is fed off the other, and in turn, both are fed from 2 other lamps (green/violet and white/grey).

I don't know the exact path of the wires, or I would tell you specifically where to look... But you should be able to find the problem in a few minutes.

Just as an example... I myself had an issue with one of the opto sensors in the ball hopper. At first I was thinking the problem was the opto or the sensor, then I thought it was the opto controller (by the left flipper), but as it turned out, all I had to do was look at the matrix and run the switch tests. All that was wrong was a broken wire on the left striker target, between the spinner and left ramp. Again, the problem was FAR from where I thought it was. Use your lamp matrix map, and tests in T.8, and then trace the colored wires.

First off... Sorry that I was giving you the wrong colors... I was looking at the switch matrix, not the lamp matrix. My bad.

If the entire row is out, it's still 99% that it's a bad connection, but the question is WHERE? You may also need to check the connection in the backbox, and then trace it from there.

If you have a multi meter, this is going to be a huge help. Use it to read voltage at different points to isolate where the connection problem is. Worst cast, it's a bad solder joint at the power board, for the row 8 wire, but it's far more likely that it's a broken solder joint, or a bad connection.

Sounds like you are getting it figured out. Keep us posted.

If any WCS expert could chime in or help me out it would be awesome.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dmd-hangs-on-startup-help-please#post-3313125

The upper right board in the backbox is the one that drives the DMD, as I am sure you know. That board has 2 large capacitors on it that are probably bad, IF they have not been previously changed. They are actually, in the end, mechanical parts, that are just layers of paper. They simply go bad over time, and this is what I would expect to see if one or both failed. I would start there.

Clearly, the display is getting power, but it's displaying garbage. If the monitor on my computer was displaying non-sense graphics like that, I would be looking at the computer, not the monitor. Same case here... The problem is likely what is driving the display. Also, those DMD displays are really common. Have you tried connecting your DMD to a working machine? (another WPC platform machine?). Again, I suspect the display is fine, and it's your DMD controller board.

How would I go by testing those capacitors with my DMM and what should be the correct values.

I did swap out the dmd with no luck

Search YouTube for WPC DMD. There are many videos that cover rebuilds of that board, using rebuild kits. Basically, you replace tbe components on the power section of the DMD board.

Scroll about halfway down the page in the link below until you see the WPC High Voltage Repair Kit. That is what you need to rebuild the entire HV section of that board. It includes the two large Capacitors.

http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

If anyone needs side art for their head snatch this up before it's gone. Decent priced too.

ebay.com link: Pinball World Cup 94 Soccer Back Box Decals New parts

The seller also has plastics and translate

ebay.com link: Pinball World Cup 94 Used Plastic

The upper lock switch is used during multiplayer games. The game will release.the first locked ball when the other player locks their ball.

Thanks for that heads up. Stinks he doesn't have the two plastics I need in that bunch.