(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Coyote
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There are 6001 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 121.
#2751 4 years ago

Stupid me...

I was working on my WCS last night, working on lighting the final draw hole (blue when tv award, red when final draw). Had it all done, and then it was acting really squirly. I disconnected it all, and decided I would scrap the idea... But while driving to work this morning, it dawned on me that I had both lamp sockets mounted on the drop hole bracket, which is metal. So, both lights were sharing the same ground, but as you know, those lights are on a matrix. Oops!

Rule of thumb... If you are adding any lighting to a pin, make sure you are not grounding to anything!!!

The lighted hole DID look really good in both red and blue. I can't wait to re-connect them after re-position and mount to wood only, under the table.

I know a few others have lighted the hole... Not sure how they did it, but I am using a #44 socket, and have a #44 double flex light. being able to aim the 2 elements, you get a great effect. I have a double red on one side, and a double blue on the other, and the solenoid pin kind of fires in between them.

#2752 4 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

These are great; I'm going to add them to mine. Can someone recommend good printing procedures / card stock for a professional look?

I went to Office Depot and had them print the cards on thick, high quality paper. I also used their really nice cutting table to cut them to size, as well as clear plastic sheets to cover the cards when on the machine. They also did the printing and binding of my service manual, from the pdf I had. Last, I had them print copies of the original brochures, and instruction sheets. They did a really good job on all of it, and the total cost for everything above was under $40. Not bad, considering the manual was big, and had a nice cover and binding.

#2753 4 years ago

i went to staples. publisher seemed to keep the dimensions best.

#2754 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Not sure how they did it, but I am using a #44 socket, and have a #44 double flex light. being able to aim the 2 elements, you get a great effect. I have a double red on one side, and a double blue on the other, and the solenoid pin kind of fires in between them.

I used short LED strips and just clipped them to each lamp and then secured in place using since they have adhesive backing on them. Done and done.

#2755 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I used short LED strips and just clipped them to each lamp and then secured in place using since they have adhesive backing on them. Done and done.

I may change my strategy and do that instead... good thinkin!

#2756 4 years ago

I happened to have extras on hand that I ordered from Comet I think. Each strip comes with adapters for clips, wedge and bayonet sockets. I had a spare blue and green strip on hand so those are the colors I used. Blue paint tape works well to block light from creeping into any nearby inserts too. Can make a little tape wall around the strips to prevent light leakage

#2757 4 years ago

I just received the decals in the mail from an eBay seller. I think they look sharp, especially the Free Kick decal.

20160817_212407_(resized).jpg

#2758 4 years ago

Wow! Had it humming today...played Germany twice. Won 5-4OT and lost 7-2. Hit a ton a victory laps and was racking up the points. #15 score on Pinside!!!! Just when I think I'm tired of it, it pulls me right back in!!!!

image_(resized).jpeg

#2759 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I used short LED strips and just clipped them to each lamp and then secured in place using since they have adhesive backing on them. Done and done.

Quoted from dleasman:

I may change my strategy and do that instead... good thinkin!

OK... I ordered the short led strips from comet and used the alligator clips. I immediately removed them. Those things ghost like crazy, plus, I have decided that attaching with clips is a horrible idea. Additionally, the adhesiver was not gooe, and they were too bulky to work for lighting the popout hole. Light was also bleeding through other inserts in the area. I am going back to my original plan of using the 2 tail #44 flex lights, and soldering.
I have used led strips for other things, and had good luck, but for this application, it did not work at all. It was a good learning experience, and I am only out $10 for the stips with shipping.

#2760 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I just received the decals in the mail from an eBay seller. I think they look sharp, especially the Free Kick decal.

I can't find them....link?

#2761 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK... I ordered the short led strips from comet and used the alligator clips. I immediately removed them. Those things ghost like crazy, plus, I have decided that attaching with clips is a horrible idea. Additionally, the adhesiver was not gooe, and they were too bulky to work for lighting the popout hole. Light was also bleeding through other inserts in the area. I am going back to my original plan of using the 2 tail #44 flex lights, and soldering.
I have used led strips for other things, and had good luck, but for this application, it did not work at all. It was a good learning experience, and I am only out $10 for the stips with shipping.

Maybe the strips I have aren't from Comet then, because the white strip and the green strip I'm using now don't ghost at all. I used blue paint tape and stuck them in place no problemo. Also use the tape to wall around the strips so the Free Kick insert doesn't show any of the light thru. I always use the clips on my games and never had an issue either, they aren't going to just fall off or anything.

#2762 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I can't find them....link?

ebay.com link

#2763 4 years ago

Wait, I forgot I am running a non-ghosting patched ROM, so that's likely why my LED strips don't ghost. Pretty sure they are from Comet.

#2764 4 years ago

Installed an alternate translite today to see about ditching the Striker dog.

20160820_164957_(resized).jpg

#2765 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

ebay.com link

Thanks!!!....just ordered a set......mark

#2766 4 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Figure this is the place to ask - should I pick this up? Says there's cracked ramps. Are there replacements available? Thanks!
hartford.craigslist.org link

One on Pinside in CT just reduced to $2100.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-cup-soccer-bally-1994-2015#post-3278139

#2767 4 years ago

Looking for a WCS, just in case anyone in the club is looking to get rid of one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/38285

#2768 4 years ago
Quoted from icust298:

Looking for a WCS, just in case anyone in the club is looking to get rid of one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/38285

GL with your hunt....they seem to come up frequently......something about this machine......just pure, easy fun....it really is a great title, imho.....

#2769 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Wow! Had it humming today...played Germany twice. Won 5-4OT and lost 7-2. Hit a ton a victory laps and was racking up the points. #15 score on Pinside!!!! Just when I think I'm tired of it, it pulls me right back in!!!!

Great score! Don't think I've ever top 5B before.

#2770 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Wow! Had it humming today...played Germany twice. Won 5-4OT and lost 7-2. Hit a ton a victory laps and was racking up the points. #15 score on Pinside!!!! Just when I think I'm tired of it, it pulls me right back in!!!!

Monster score!

#2771 4 years ago

Can someone tell me where I can order a few diodes for WCS? Specifically the one that is on the Lock switches. Looks like Marco only sells kits? I really only need the ones for the lock switches.

Also, my Ultra Ramps lights are not working on either ramp entrance. I have replaced the sockets and the bulbs but still nothing. Any ideas? Do I have to replace that whole lamp board?

#2772 4 years ago

Digikey - search "1N4001" or "1N4004".

#2774 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Digikey - search "1N4001" or "1N4004".

Thanks! So it doesn't matter which one I order?

#2775 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Thanks! So it doesn't matter which one I order?

No. A 4004 can support higher amperage than a 4001. However, the switch matrix uses extremely little amperage, so either one will work fine.

#2776 4 years ago

Anyone have a set of speaker templates from Pinballbulbs.com? They are currently OOS. Happy to Paypal you the shipping cost. PM me.

#2777 4 years ago

Looking for a "header" plastic and the plastic that goes under and alongside the left ramp. Can be used and cracked, just looking for ones that aren't broken. Rather not buy new if possible. I'll actually leave that ramp plastic broken instead of wasting $$ on a new one since I can't see it when playing, but would like to have an intact header plastic.

This is that other plastic:

ebay.com link » Genuine Nos World Cup Soccer 94 Playfield Plastic 31 1925 21

#2778 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Also, my Ultra Ramps lights are not working on either ramp entrance. I have replaced the sockets and the bulbs but still nothing. Any ideas? Do I have to replace that whole lamp board?

Bumping this question. Any ideas? Hoping I don't have to replace that entire front ramp entrances for both ramps. looks hard to find and over $100 a piece. Just for two lights...yikes

#2779 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Bumping this question. Any ideas? Hoping I don't have to replace that entire front ramp entrances for both ramps. looks hard to find and over $100 a piece. Just for two lights...yikes

Light boards rarely go bad. The diode on them may have gone, but even that's unlikely. Do they work in test mode?

#2780 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Light boards rarely go bad. The diode on them may have gone, but even that's unlikely. Do they work in test mode?

No they don't. I will check the diodes when I get home. Thanks, Coyote!

#2781 4 years ago

Still nothing, if I'm testing the diodes correctly one seems to be bad. I'd like to just buy 2 new replacement light boards for these 3 lights on each ramp.

Anyone know where to find these or will I have to get these repaired??

#2782 4 years ago

Bypass the diode - connect a jumper from one lead of the diode to the other. If you get any bright light, then the diode is bad. If you get dim, or glowing light, then the diode isn't the issue.

#2783 4 years ago

Are you getting any voltage on your DMD? Any voltage form the board? Connectivity between board and connectors? It could be so many things...

#2784 4 years ago

Question about gameplay. Is there a setting that determines the difficulty to start mulit-ball? I ask because currently I only have to lock 1 ball then Final Draw is lit to start multiball. Seems weird that the upper lock switch is literally never used. Shouldn't I have to lock 2 balls, then multiball should be lit? I don't see this listed in the Adjustments menu.

#2785 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Question about gameplay. Is there a setting that determines the difficulty to start mulit-ball? I ask because currently I only have to lock 1 ball then Final Draw is lit to start multiball. Seems weird that the upper lock switch is literally never used. Shouldn't I have to lock 2 balls, then multiball should be lit? I don't see this listed in the Adjustments menu.

Pretty sure there's an adjustment for it, but the default like you have it is actually harder. When you set it to take two balls in the lock diverter, multiball starts when you plunge. Or at least that's how a friend of mine had his set up a few years back. Keep digging around in Adjustments and you should find it. Or maybe try one of the installs if that's an option. Also, make sure you have the latest ROM.

#2786 4 years ago
Quoted from stevevt:

Pretty sure there's an adjustment for it, but the default like you have it is actually harder. When you set it to take two balls in the lock diverter, multiball starts when you plunge. Or at least that's how a friend of mine had his set up a few years back. Keep digging around in Adjustments and you should find it. Or maybe try one of the installs if that's an option. Also, make sure you have the latest ROM.

But at least that way you would have to light the lock shot twice, correct? Currently I only have to light the lock once, shoot either ramp, then shoot the scoop to start the m-ball. Just seems super easy, but maybe you are right. I'll keep looking in the adjustments menu. Thanks, Steve!

#2787 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

But at least that way you would have to light the lock shot twice, correct? Currently I only have to light the lock once, shoot either ramp, then shoot the scoop to start the m-ball. Just seems super easy, but maybe you are right. I'll keep looking in the adjustments menu. Thanks, Steve!

No. Lock stays lit after the first ball is locked.

#2788 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

But at least that way you would have to light the lock shot twice, correct?

My recollection is no. But poke around -- you might find a setting you like anyhow.

#2789 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Hoping I don't have to replace that entire front ramp entrances for both ramps. looks hard to find and over $100 a piece. Just for two lights...yikes

For your Ultra Ramps issue, I think you are looking for a complicated fix for a simple problem. Let's start over from the beginning...

Start with the tests... Go into the Test menu, to T.8 Single lamp test. Got to light 56 (location 78). Are your lamps flashing? I am assuming that they will not, but this is a good starting place.

My best guess is that you have a broken wire on the way to your lamps.

Again, these lights are on the lamp matrix in column 7, row 8. So, use the tests to determine if anything else in column 7 is out. Then, look at everything else in row 8. If anything else is out, then your problem is further up stream.

So, column 7 is the Green wire with the Violet stripe, and row 8 is the White wire with the Grey stripe. Begin tracing the green wire first, from where it connects to the boards (molex connector) to it's source, which is going to be another light named in that same row. You should also trace the Grey wire, which will lead to another lamp named in that same column.

Odds are that you simply have a broken wire, far from the billboards where the problem is showing. This theory is inforced by the fact that BOTH ramp lights are out. One of the ramp lights is fed off the other, and in turn, both are fed from 2 other lamps (green/violet and white/grey).

I don't know the exact path of the wires, or I would tell you specifically where to look... But you should be able to find the problem in a few minutes.

Just as an example... I myself had an issue with one of the opto sensors in the ball hopper. At first I was thinking the problem was the opto or the sensor, then I thought it was the opto controller (by the left flipper), but as it turned out, all I had to do was look at the matrix and run the switch tests. All that was wrong was a broken wire on the left striker target, between the spinner and left ramp. Again, the problem was FAR from where I thought it was. Use your lamp matrix map, and tests in T.8, and then trace the colored wires.

#2790 4 years ago

Wow, thank you! You were correct the entire Row 8 is out and I did not even notice that. But it is odd that Ultra Ramps (34) is out. It is not on that row. The only other lamp that is out is Tackle which is in the same column as Ultra Ramps.
Edit: Striker Billboard is actually working but that is the only one in that row.
Capture (resized).PNG

#2791 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

the entire Row 8 is out

First off... Sorry that I was giving you the wrong colors... I was looking at the switch matrix, not the lamp matrix. My bad.

If the entire row is out, it's still 99% that it's a bad connection, but the question is WHERE? You may also need to check the connection in the backbox, and then trace it from there.

If you have a multi meter, this is going to be a huge help. Use it to read voltage at different points to isolate where the connection problem is. Worst cast, it's a bad solder joint at the power board, for the row 8 wire, but it's far more likely that it's a broken solder joint, or a bad connection.

Sounds like you are getting it figured out. Keep us posted.

#2793 4 years ago

The upper right board in the backbox is the one that drives the DMD, as I am sure you know. That board has 2 large capacitors on it that are probably bad, IF they have not been previously changed. They are actually, in the end, mechanical parts, that are just layers of paper. They simply go bad over time, and this is what I would expect to see if one or both failed. I would start there.

Clearly, the display is getting power, but it's displaying garbage. If the monitor on my computer was displaying non-sense graphics like that, I would be looking at the computer, not the monitor. Same case here... The problem is likely what is driving the display. Also, those DMD displays are really common. Have you tried connecting your DMD to a working machine? (another WPC platform machine?). Again, I suspect the display is fine, and it's your DMD controller board.

#2794 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

The upper right board in the backbox is the one that drives the DMD, as I am sure you know. That board has 2 large capacitors on it that are probably bad, IF they have not been previously changed. They are actually, in the end, mechanical parts, that are just layers of paper. They simply go bad over time, and this is what I would expect to see if one or both failed. I would start there.
Clearly, the display is getting power, but it's displaying garbage. If the monitor on my computer was displaying non-sense graphics like that, I would be looking at the computer, not the monitor. Same case here... The problem is likely what is driving the display. Also, those DMD displays are really common. Have you tried connecting your DMD to a working machine? (another WPC platform machine?). Again, I suspect the display is fine, and it's your DMD controller board.

How would I go by testing those capacitors with my DMM and what should be the correct values.

I did swap out the dmd with no luck

#2795 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

How would I go by testing those capacitors with my DMM and what should be the correct values.
I did swap out the dmd with no luck

Search YouTube for WPC DMD. There are many videos that cover rebuilds of that board, using rebuild kits. Basically, you replace tbe components on the power section of the DMD board.

#2796 4 years ago

Scroll about halfway down the page in the link below until you see the WPC High Voltage Repair Kit. That is what you need to rebuild the entire HV section of that board. It includes the two large Capacitors.

http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

#2797 4 years ago

If anyone needs side art for their head snatch this up before it's gone. Decent priced too.

ebay.com link » Pinball World Cup 94 Soccer Back Box Decals New Parts

The seller also has plastics and translate

ebay.com link » Pinball World Cup 94 Used Plastic

#2798 4 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Question about gameplay. Is there a setting that determines the difficulty to start mulit-ball? I ask because currently I only have to lock 1 ball then Final Draw is lit to start multiball. Seems weird that the upper lock switch is literally never used. Shouldn't I have to lock 2 balls, then multiball should be lit? I don't see this listed in the Adjustments menu.

The upper lock switch is used during multiplayer games. The game will release.the first locked ball when the other player locks their ball.

#2799 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

If anyone needs side art for their head snatch this up before it's gone. Decent priced too.
ebay.com link » Pinball World Cup 94 Soccer Back Box Decals New Parts
The seller also has plastics and translate
ebay.com link » Pinball World Cup 94 Used Plastic

Thanks for that heads up. Stinks he doesn't have the two plastics I need in that bunch.

#2800 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

If you have a multi meter, this is going to be a huge help. Use it to read voltage at different points to isolate where the connection problem is. Worst cast, it's a bad solder joint at the power board, for the row 8 wire, but it's far more likely that it's a broken solder joint, or a bad connection.
Sounds like you are getting it figured out. Keep us posted.

I do have a DMM but I am pretty new to this. How would I go about testing voltage at different points to isolate the problem? I am having a hard time understanding where the row 8 wire starts and stops. It looks like there are 2 red-gray wires? One plugged into J-134 and one at J-135. There is also another red-gray wire on the board next to the coin door in the cabinet. I tried to test continuity from J-134/J-135 to the different lamps on row 8, but nothing.

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