(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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There are 5904 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 119.
#2501 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Nobody looks after us poor guys owning "B" titles. Wire ramps rarely break so not too many spare ones would have been made. How much did they quote re-chroming it? I would have thought replacing with NOS and re-chroming would be very similar price.

My ramp has a broken weld in one spot, but you won't know unless you physically move it by hand. I got a quote locally to get it hydrochromed and tinted gold for $65 but it's a 3 week to a month turnaround and I can't go that long without playing it lol. I'm thinking to just get it powdered which will only take it a day. A NOS ramp is $125, so your talking $190 total, no thanks. Getting it brass plated locally is a one month to a month and a half turnaround.

#2502 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I am not a big fan of the gold on the machine, or gold as a color, in general. Mine has chrome legs (not gold). In fact, the only gold colored alloy part on my machine IS the rail.
I would really like to have mine powder coated in teal, or possibly orange, to match the game, and make it look more like the machines made today. I have no idea who does powder coating, or if it requires a lot of prep work (removing the gold first). But I sure think it would look great. I kinda remember someone here doing this, but I can't remember when/where I saw it. As I recall, it looked really good, and if memory serves, they also did the side rails and legs.

I'm thinking the same, do away with the gold all together. There are guys on here that do powder, or you could probably find someone pretty easy local to you through google. Removing the gold is pretty easy honestly. It can be done with evapo-rust or brasso. There are one or two WCS machines in the powder coating thread. One person did only the legs and coin door in purple which I thought was very odd. Everything should have been done IMO, but hey his machine not mine.

#2503 4 years ago

do you guys know why balls would stick in my ball trough? stick may be a bad word to use. it just seems like there isn't enough inertia to move the balls down to the kickout. when there's five balls in there, it's fine, but when that ball locks sometimes the second ball isn't down on top of the coil. you look down there and nudge the machine a little until it moves down. obviously that shouldn't be a standard feature.

any ideas? clean my trough out maybe? that seems pretty random.

#2504 4 years ago

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see, there's two balls in there just sitting there. this is with playfield in the playing position.

#2505 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

do you guys know why balls would stick in my ball trough? stick may be a bad word to use. it just seems like there isn't enough inertia to move the balls down to the kickout. when there's five balls in there, it's fine, but when that ball locks sometimes the second ball isn't down on top of the coil. you look down there and nudge the machine a little until it moves down. obviously that shouldn't be a standard feature.
any ideas? clean my trough out maybe? that seems pretty random.

Trough may be pitted. You can file it to smooth it out.

Balls may have become magnetized.

Another thing is make sure you have the correct screws attaching the opto board. If the screw is longer than it should be and screwed in enough it can block the balls.

#2506 4 years ago

Often the ball trough gets worn with grooves forming inside that restrict ball movement. A cheap solution is: BALL TROUGH MAGNETIC JAM PROTECTOR
Available from pinbits.

#2508 4 years ago

oh, that's an idea. tyvm.

#2509 4 years ago

i have been accomplishing a few things:
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#2510 4 years ago

i told cliffy we really need a drain hole protector, too.

#2511 4 years ago

The pinbits protector solved these exact issues on my IJ. Strongly advise getting it.

#2512 4 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

The pinbits protector solved these exact issues on my IJ. Strongly advise getting it.

cool. i ordered dos yesterday. excited.

#2513 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i have been accomplishing a few things:

It's crazy - I've had my proto playfield so long now that everyone i see someone's shot of the right ramp, it looks 'wrong' to me..:

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#2514 4 years ago

Stop looking at that playfield and start doing something with it.

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#2515 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Stop looking at that playfield and start doing something with it.

I... I need a game, first.

#2516 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I... I need a game, first.

The one on the right goes up for sale when I'm finished. Cal50 gets first dibs on it, but he might not want another project.

#2517 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

The one on the right goes up for sale when I'm finished. Cal50 gets first dibs on it, but he might not want another project.

Hehe. I plan on getting one that is a project - as long as ramps and mechanics are okay, the PF can be trashed. I'll be putting in my prototype playfield ('Ultra-Ball'!), so the condition of the PF won't matter. But I'm aiming for as cheap as I can go - no LEDs, no mods, no color DMD, yadda yadda. Since my money will be going into getting the proto PF dimpled, cleared and converted over into a workign game.

#2518 4 years ago

anybody have an extra ramp gate sign plastic?

#2519 4 years ago

Does anyone else have a number above the start button? I looked around to find what it relates to but can't find anything.

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#2520 4 years ago

That's an operator/arcade inventory number tag.

In other words, it wasn't shipped form the factory like that, but at some point an owner had one made and screwed it in.

#2521 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

That's an operator/arcade inventory number tag.
In other words, it wasn't shipped form the factory like that, but at some point an owner had one made and screwed it in.

Thanks Coyote I had a feeling that's what it was. Will probably take it off if it holds no significance.

#2522 4 years ago
Quoted from JayTeeF:

Thanks Coyote I had a feeling that's what it was. Will probably take it off if it holds no significance.

Depends... I mean, if you think it's interesting, keep it. Especailly if you cna find another game form the same owner/arcade with another one of those metal tags.

#2523 4 years ago

So I was curious and checked the s/n and the numbers (01491) are the last 5 of the s/n.

#2524 4 years ago

LX2 is the rom to have in this puppy?

#2525 4 years ago

Can someone help me with this. I'm looking for an extra ball push button located under the plunger. "20-9663-D-1" Looks like unobtanium. I know they sell blanks but wondering what size it is 2" or 1.5in? Can someone measure?

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#2526 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Just got some goodies delivered.

Where did you find the plastic? That is the last one I need for my game!

#2527 4 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Can someone help me with this. I'm looking for an extra ball push button located under the plunger. "20-9663-D-1" Looks like unobtanium. I know they sell blanks but wondering what size it is 2" or 1.5in? Can someone measure?

http://mad-amusements.com/category.php?id_category=15

#2528 4 years ago

I don't trust him especially after what he's done to other international clients it's a matter of principle I guess. I won't chance it.

#2529 4 years ago

there are literally no left slingshot plastics out there? what broke them all? the magnet save?

#2530 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

there are literally no left slingshot plastics out there? what broke them all? the magnet save?

I think I have one but I think it's yellow as piss.

#2532 4 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Where did you find the plastic? That is the last one I need for my game!

Australian seller on Ebay. He has plenty

#2533 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Australian seller on Ebay. He has plenty

got a link handy? Was just about to shop mine again!

#2534 4 years ago

$48 but you gotta do what you gotta do!!

ebay.com link » Genuine Nos World Cup Soccer 94 Playfield Plastic 31 1925 21

#2535 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Important thing is to get it fixed so it can be enjoyed!!! Well, until the next thing breaks...

Update on the out GI.. It ended up being the J-121 connector that was the culprit not J-120, however I went ahead and re-pinned both since I had the parts and J-120 looked crispy.

HOWEVER, after the re-pinning two pop lights are still out (left and back) and the right light behind the goalie is out. Not a huge deal compared to where I was at before but if anyone has any idea what connector these are associated with I'd love to know, I've had no luck trying to trace the wires or 'comprehend' the manual. I did not re-flow the solder to the pins on J-121 as I haven't a clue how to do that and have yet to look for a good resource.

#2536 4 years ago
Quoted from deeplennon1:

I did not re-flow the solder to the pins on J-121 as I haven't a clue how to do that and have yet to look for a good resource.

just take the soldering iron and touch the solder until it melts that's it. Repeat on other pins

#2537 4 years ago

I had a freak out earlier this week. I left my machine on for a few hours and came back to a black DMD. I say to myself great. Now I probably need a new display!! Turns out it was just a molex lol

#2538 4 years ago

have my wcs94 ready today...

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#2539 4 years ago

Nice! I particularly like the yellow wire habitail, but I'm not 100% on the yellow coin toss..

#2540 4 years ago

I like it

#2541 4 years ago

I think the doing both trail and coin toss yellow works out well. The black rails and legs give it a nice understated look which helps the yellow pop.

I added a couple spotlights on mine which really helps the middle of the playfield.

#2542 4 years ago

Yellow and black is a classical combo that looks really good on your machine.

#2543 4 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

have my wcs94 ready today...

Well... I had been thinking about doing my hamster cage in teal, but you have just convinced me to do yellow instead, and the coin toss as well. I am going to stick with my chrome legs, rails and bar for now. That just looks sooo good, and I already contacted a local shop about doing it.

Will my machine EVER be DONE???

As my good friend Devin always tells me... "There is no such thing as an un-modified pinball machine"

#2544 4 years ago

I have this old college friend named Devin who opened an arcade in Springfield, MO with his brother (and family) a number of years back. The 1984 arcade will be celebrating it's 11th anniversary for 4 days (Juny 6th to July 9th). It's 10 hours from where I live, but I am seriously thinking of making the trip down for the event. I have been there a couple times before and it's SOO much fun. They have around 100 video games, and I *think* 18 pinball machines. It's $7.50 at the door and you can play all the games you like, but the pinball is still .25 or .50 per game, just because of the upkeep. They have a new Ghost Busters pro on order, and hopefully it will be there by then, and I am hoping that their Spinal Tap machine is up and running by then (conversion from a flash gordan). 11 years in business! (this party goes to "11"). Can't wait to play Mars Attacks, Midevil Madness, Alien, Black Knight, Fun House, and some of the others. Anyone else live within driving distance?

#2545 4 years ago

Tearing down the playfield for the first time and trying to take off the left ramp. All fasteners are removed but I can't seem to get it off.
Do I need to remove the divertor assembly from under the playfield to get the ramp off or is there another thing I'm missing?

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#2546 4 years ago

Removing the diverted is necessary. You chance breaking the ramp if you don't . Its one small Allen wrench turned to remove.

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#2547 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Removing the diverted is necessary. You chance breaking the ramp if you don't . Its one small Allen wrench turned to remove.

I was able to remove my ramp with the diverter still assembled by being extremely careful......yeah I'm that lazy lol. I then filed down the tab to the left side of the ramp that goes into the opening in the rear of the cabinet for even easier removal of that ramp in the future.

#2548 4 years ago

Thanks guys - I ended up just unbolting the assembly, ramp came right off after that.

#2549 4 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

Thanks guys - I ended up just unbolting the assembly, ramp came right off after that.

I have posted about this i. The past, but here it is again anyway. Get a bunch of nylon washers in both black and white. You can use them in a lot of places during re-assembly to reduce wear, make things move easier, and to keep plastics from cracking when bolting them down. If you have everything apart anyway, it's a good time to add them. I used a few on the diverter, to eliminate the "play" and to keep the diverter from scratching up the ramp.

#2550 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Well... I had been thinking about doing my hamster cage in teal, ......"

What is the hamster cage?

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There are 5904 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 119.

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