It is a relavely easy shot. I get it 6 -7 out of ten. Make sure you flipper is aligned correctly. If the flipper is aligned too high it becomes a very hard shot.

It's hard to hit for me!!! Ball goes almost mid way up and comes barreling back down, or it slams into the post and comes back to the flippers at warp speed.

I'm with you. It's a risky shot for me too. Of course, in those days when everything is flowing and you are in the zone, that's when I can hit the right ramp.

The ball coming back at me from the right or left ramp is usually when I try a desperation MagnaSave.

Do you really want to know the answer to that? No, it's not that hard to hit. You just need more practice. I think it's different for everyone, but I find that the spinner is harder to hit than the right ramp. And the final draw hole is harder than all, because it likes to bounce off instead of going in. A really difficult shot is to hit the final draw with the right flipper, but I am getting pretty good at it.

If the ball is rolling back down, then maybe you have a week flipper. Try cleaning the sleeve and linkage, and adjust the switch on the flipper to close when the flipper is near the end of it's range. Mine was too strong on the right flipper, and the ball was catching air on the left ramp. I moved my switch inward, so it closes sooner, putting the solenoid into low power early, reducing the strength. I had used dupont silicone spray on my flipper pins, and they become uber powerful... Too powerful.

Right ramp....it's tough at first but can be hit with regularity with practice. It's an important shot to hit if you want to advance quickly through cities to get to the final draw against Germany.

I think the right ramp is pretty hard the way mine is setup. I watched a video of one of the PAPA finals I think and they were talking about how hard the right ramp was and all the players stayed away from it because if you did'nt make it up it would drain down the middle most times. If I have the ball trapped I can make mine most times with a good shot but if the ball is moving I normally stay away from it. My high score on it is around 4 billion.
Joe

you're probably right-handed? so am i, and my hand-eye coordination isn't the same with my left hand.

I find the right ramp to be a very tough shot. But it's very rewarding when you do get it.

The only thing I REALLY don't like about the right ramp shot is it will be going so fast that sometimes the magnet can't catch the ball for a lock. At least it's that way on mine. Anyone else have that issue? Or better yet, a FIX for that issue?

I would check/adjust the switch on the ramp that is right above the mine playfield where the ramp is. That magnet is activated by that switch (it has to know the ball is coming, right?) It's a micro switch, with the flat stem hanging down. The problem is that is is going by the switch too fast, and not closing the circiut long enough. If you have a reed switch adjuster, that is the best way, else, remove the switch and use a needle nose plyers.

The switch definitely works. What I think is happening is that the ball is screaming by so fast the magnet simply isn't strong enough to catch it. I'd love to replace both magnets on this game for stronger ones...think about how great it would be to actually have the Magna Save be of use!

My magna save is very strong and I have beenaable to save every center drain that I have had about 90% of the time if I can catch it fast enough. A forward nudge to slow the ball down before it gets between the flippers helps too.

So today I did a full rubber swap to purple Titans. The previous owner had all whites and blacks and it just clashed to much for me. I also decided to polish all of my hex posts that hold the ramps up to a mirror like shine. Way to dull of a finish otherwise. I also did some brainstorming during all of this and am highly contemplating doing an actual mesh net for my goal. I think I can definitely pull it off but it will require a good bit of cutting.

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Are you thinking about a fabric mesh or very fine chicken wire mesh?

You are talking about the left flipper right? Right flipper the sling seems to be in the way. Im sure i need more practice i think i kind of give up on it most games when i should be trying it more.

Definitely fabric

Anyone else had this issue with their jewel posts? It's like the bottoms of them are disintegrating. I can only assume that it could be from using silicone based wax, which I really hope is not the case because it is nearly impossible to remove it all. I have machines much older than this one and this is the first time that I have ever seen it so it can't be due to age. Anyway, I went through the machine today and swapped every single one out for brand new ones.

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Yes, all my Bally/Williams games have some of this happened.

Very common. I had to replace mine too and not only on WCS94.

That's very odd. I have owned at least 50 different machines and have never see posts do that before.

Polished all four bottom ramp guards today. Those ball trails had to go. After on the left, before on the right.

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Just picked up this game on Sunday and love it. While working out the niggles I think there are a couple y'all might be able to help me with.

First off the bottom coin flip slot is nearly impossible to reach, my experience playing multiple WCSs on location is that that is the easiest of the three skill shots accomplished ~75% of the time with a hard plunge. Anything that could be going wrong there?

The second thing is that the ball keeps getting stuck in the left outlane between the post in the bottom corner by the kicker and the wall as shown in the attached image. While playing one ball multi balls is a nice it seems a bit unfair . Any ideas?

WCS_bull_stuck.JPG

Loosen that screw that's above the ball in the photo then pull that rail up and re-tighten the screw while holding the rail up.

Same issue. Full plunge at the local arcade always gets you the bottom skill shot slot. At home it was incredibly weak. I played with some replacement shooter springs (both barrel and shooter-side) until I found a pair that worked. What it was for me was that a new barrel spring was too rigid to allow a full "follow through" or "extension" for the shooter tip. It would stop it short and not fully accelerate the ball. Either a stronger shooter-side spring, or a weaker barrel spring is probably the solution.

I don't think it's the screw. I think there's a post rubber (look at the 12' o clock location of the stuck ball) that's pressing the ball against the apron. I think I have this same post w/o a rubber because I couldn't grasp why there was one there and I only saw it as a mechanism where ball saves could be lost if this slowed down a quick drain. I'd remove the rubber if that's pressing the ball against the apron and that screw mentioned above has nothing to do with it.

For the coin flip issue, I suspect your shooter rod needs cleaning/replacing, or a new spring. I also replace the metal washers with nylon washers on the shooter rod, to prevent binding and friction. Also, clean the track throug the skill shot. And, I always put new balls in on any new machine, to prevent wear on the playfield from divots and rust spots on the balls.

Your left outlane could be a couple things... Looks like your apron is not seated all the way. It hooks in and pulls towards the front of the cabinet (as I am sure you know). Else, it could be some fat rubbers, but from the photo, I am thinking the apron is not all the way on.

yeah, your apron is too high.

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Ohhh yeah definitely the apron

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Thanks for the tips on the skill shot. New springs ordered.

Regarding the outlane it looks like the apron is the near unanimous decision! Strangely though I couldn't find anything off about it's seating (though I didn't really understand dleasman's description). I was able to work that part of the metal well enough to open it up enough for the ball to pass, but still couldn't create the width of green paint below the upc that y'all have. I'm worried that the problem will return.

Attached is a side view of the back of the apron. Maybe I could try putting some nuts on the back of those screws to get the bottom of the apron to close the gap in the picture? Or maybe I'm missing something else completely?

image_(resized).jpeg

You might want to actually take the apron off and then put it back on to see if you can get it to "fit" better. Sometimes, if the apron isn't seated quite right, you can still get the screws in but you're binding the apron, which is what it looks like is happening in your case. Here's a picture of mine showing how far back it is on the playfield in the outlane area.

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Sorry for the crappy picture. This should be better.

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As I look at the picture, you might be able to tell how close your apron is to being on correctly by where the plunger lines up with the apron itself. As you can see from my picture, the plunger is pretty close to the edge of the apron.

OK so I have been slowly restoring a WCS .My restorations slow significantly in the summer. I have been toying with a few color changes. I'm interested in other WCS owners opinions on the orange.

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Wow that's definitely different. I haven't seen that color combination yet but I like it

Yes orange goes really well with the game. Nut sure about the purple goal post sleeve. I like yellow.

Left outlane stuck ball problem solved, thanks guys.

New problem.. All the GI is now out except for the left GI.

Background; I had to take the back box off the game to move it into my basement. When I started the game up for the first time after reattaching it these same GI lights were out that are out now. At that time I was able to get them back on by opening up the back box and making sure all the molex connectors were properly seated. However three days later they've gone our again with no such easy fix.

The fuses look good but molex connector J-120 looks a little crispy. Is this connector responsible for GI? Any other ideas?

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Yes J-120 and J-121 are the GI molex plugs. Need some expert advise on how to continue on the testing procedure.

If that is a question than yes would be my answer .

Just repin those connectors. Easy job but a bit fiddly if you're not used to a crimp tool. Make sure the pins on the board itself are in good condition. Check the solderings also on the rear of the board.

In removing and re-attaching the connectors, it could have broken some connections loose on the board. If this is the problem, then a re-flow of the solder on the pins would take care of it.

That burning on the connectors is not uncommon. Many are even melted. If your machine has been upgraded with LEDs, then you have reduced that draw down to about 1/4 of what it was, and it should never get any worse than it is.

This machine was not designed for the back box to be removed, but if all you did was remove the connectors, and it's not working after being re-assembled, then the connectors are certainly suspect.

Also, you may want to check the 5 fuses for the GI... Pull and inspect, and then put them back in. Each one powers part of the playfield, and probably part of the back box as well.

Thanks for the advise. Now I'm trying to figure out what I'll need to repin J120, I think it's these four things:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3452

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=496 x4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UWT9U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOIY1NE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Look good? Any and all suggestions welcome for a cheaper removal tool welcome..

Forget the removal tool. Just cut the wires as close to the old connectors you can. You still have plenty of length left to use. Strip them as needed and recrimp them. Just make sure you crimp them nice and properly, give them a tug before you plug them in the new connectors, and be careful to plug them into the correct hole.

Feels like we are pretty quick to assume that it's the connector, and that it needs to be re-pinned. Seems just as likely that it's the pins on the controller board. I would remove the board and try re-flowing the solder on the pins first, before re-pinning or replacing the connector. It's an easier place to start. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble of replacing that connector, and have it still not work.

I would recommend using a multi meter and ensuring that all of the pins on the controller are getting power. If not, then it's not the connector... It's the pin, or the one of the fuses (which should also be test, if there is no power at the pin.

Just trying to save some pain, by not being to quick to assume that it's the most complicated fix. Just as likely that it's something simple.

Of course, you may have already checked these other things, and I missed it in the text above.

It could be part of the problem naturally. I did mention to check the pins and the soldering on the back of the board. But I usually do all the repairs when isolating the fault to a particular part?

Shitty soldering? Sure. Burned pin? Ok. Might as well get a fresh connector too.

Important thing is to get it fixed so it can be enjoyed!!! Well, until the next thing breaks...

i was attempting to install some cliffy protectors the other day. i could not get the posts out which the protectors are suppose to go under. i put it back together without for now.

do posts screw out or get hammered out? i don't see how to screw them, since it's a polished round post. any direction or you need specifics?

Post do not screw in. They usually need to be tapped out. Two things you need to be carefull of. First be carefull not to damage the treads on the underside of the post. You can take the existing nut and unscrew it until it is flush with the end of the post and gently tap the post to start its movement. Second, watch to make sure the top of your playfield does not tear/chip as you start to remove the post.

Slow and easy

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yikes. ty.

SO I was doing some thinking. If Bally put out 8,000+ of these where the heck are all of the parts? Anyone had luck finding a NOS wire ramp? I was going to get mine re plated but I just can't justify the cost. I may just get it powder coated

Nobody looks after us poor guys owning "B" titles. Wire ramps rarely break so not too many spare ones would have been made. How much did they quote re-chroming it? I would have thought replacing with NOS and re-chroming would be very similar price.

Not that anyone *needs* to watch this, but I put a video on YouTube yesterday, explaining all of the mods (mostly led) that I did to my WCS. You can see it on the link below, if you promise to contain your laughter...

I am not a big fan of the gold on the machine, or gold as a color, in general. Mine has chrome legs (not gold). In fact, the only gold colored alloy part on my machine IS the rail.

I would really like to have mine powder coated in teal, or possibly orange, to match the game, and make it look more like the machines made today. I have no idea who does powder coating, or if it requires a lot of prep work (removing the gold first). But I sure think it would look great. I kinda remember someone here doing this, but I can't remember when/where I saw it. As I recall, it looked really good, and if memory serves, they also did the side rails and legs.