Thanks @dleasman, that's what I was looking for.
Already started with the rubber exchange and since now I had no issues putting in about a half of all the rubbers.

@sohchx, do you have some custom WCS 3D designs?

No, the kit was NOT complete. I was missing some, and had extras of others. But my machine os probably not all stock. I just ordered a variety of smaller rings to complete.

are all the kickout hole plastics suppose to be purple? my assist hole cover is white.

Yes they all should be purple.

ty. i'd probably put a purple one in there even if you said white .

another quickie: what size screw do i need for a double star post?

I have a new ball (the rubber ball only). How do I replace it? I thought it was only the top screw and then you lift it off. But nope...

just pull it off. it's on the square post pretty tight, even without that screw.

Ok good! I was afraid it was attached to a mechanism of some sort. Thanks

i installed my new one, no screw.

Slow progress (my first shop) Almost everything is off. Ramps are cleaned and like new. I have new plastics where they were broken. New goalie, new ball. Soon I can start cleaning the PF, and start to replace posts, rubbers and install leds.

And just today I noticed black tape over the left inlane to stop the wear, it was covered by dirt when I bought it, oh well. I'll just let it be until the day I want to learn pf restoration.

This game was left in cold storage and is filthy af with rust (even some white mold on mini pf lol). It will not be 100% perfect when I'm done but good enough to enjoy for many more years. Electronics are reflowed, powerdriver is completely restored and solder touchups have been made under pf. I cant wait too see it when I put it back together

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Holy cheeze'n'crackers, look at the black around the bottom of the slingshots. Wow..

Oh btw, I'd like to buy a cliffy protector for the assist hole, if anyone have one extra. Or any other protector as long as its for the assist. That one has the most wear.

lol check my earlier posts in this thread, the plastic ramps were basically BLACK. But they're better than new now. Some plastics have yellowed over time but not the ramps. I'm fine with that.

I have no idea what has happened to this machine but I bought it for ~1000usd.And notice the extreme grove in the bottom of the soccer ball! I guess the remains of it is sprayed over the entire pf! lol

No, I own no designs of my own. I grab what I need from Thingaverse and Shapeways

All done!! One looks better than the other but not by much and they are as good as they are going to get. Now it's time for plating. I really wish that I could have somehow gotten the continents on the globe.

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MOD: Soccer Ball Painted Speaker Grills

I was sending this information to another member, but I thought I would just include the info here... These are the instructions I provided, as I am sending him the stencil that @pinballbulbs sent to me.

Remove the speaker/display panel, and disconnect all of the cables. I think there are 3 or 4 connections. One is the grey data cable for the DMD, another is power for the DMD, then another which is for speakers (higher on the board, and may be tangled with other cables), and then the green ground wire.

Once you have the panel removed, disconnect and remove the speakers.

Then, remove the plastic edging piece on on the top edge (as it sits in the machine).

Before removing the grills, it's good to know what part shows through the front plastic. I just used a pencil and outlined the circle of the cutouts, drawing on the black grill. This way, when the grills are removed, you can see where to place the stencil.

The front plexi is held on by adhesive, and you should not try to remove it completely. Just remove what you need from the one end, and gently pry up the 4 staples that hold the grill in place (2 on the top, 2 on the bottom). Then remove the one on the other side.

Once the grills are removed, use a brush of some sort to gently remove any dust, so you are painting on a clean surface.

Attach the stencil to one of the grills (I used 2 sided tape, as in the photo I will include). I also masked around the outside, so I had unpainted surface, to make re-attachment easier during re-assembly. Also, I did my left and right mirrored to each other, meaning, the stencil is placed 180 degrees around on the 2nd grill. (again, see photo)

I used a white rust-o-leum paint, in satin. It does not take much, and I sprayed at about a 12" distance, back and forth a coulpe times, then turned 90 degrees and hit it again. It dried quickly (about 30 min), and I was able to remove the tape and sencil, moving on to the other grill.

When I put the grills back in, I just used a couple pieces of gorilla, black duct tape to hold them in place onto the wood. It does not need much, because it is sandwiched between the wood and plastic, in a channel. Hot glue would be another alternative.

Then, the rest is just putting it back on to the machine, making sure to re-attach all cables.

You may want to do it differently, but this is how I did it, and it took less than an hour, and was actually a lot of fun.

On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, this is about a 1.5... It's a pretty easy mod, and only costs less than $10.

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Great and proper instructions but you can save yourself a lot of time by just lifting the plexiglass and sliding the stencil on top of the speaker grill with everything installed. All you need to do then is mask the entire panel with tape for spraying. I masked everything and used a razor knife to cut along the speaker hole.

That looks sweet!!! How does one obtain the stencils?

By reading the last 4 pages of this thread.

Will do. I started reading from page one last week and am only on 23 as of now.

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Almost done!! Last thing to do is the green stripes around the base

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Just got some goodies delivered.

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O myyy gad... This playfield very very drty.

Where did you find it, it is so dirty?? -- What about the interior of the cabinet it is also dirty ??

They look really good now with the paint job! Now I want a couple too.

I think it's from Portugal. Inside is actually very good. The PF is mostly dirty because the previous owner was probably retarded, and some rust due to poor storage environment (again, retarded owner).

A friend bought it in a batch with 20 other machines.

I just completed my last *planned* mod. Thanks to BioBa, and his awesome ideas, and also fore sending me some white, led strip lighting (6v), my WCS now feels complete. I had used his idea to put soccer balls on the entrances to the ramps. I also painting the speaker grills (again, thanks to @pinballbulbs for the stencil). I had my own idea of adding a light under "lock" in the lock area, as well as 3 spots (on right slingshot, at top of lock area, and behind left ramp billboard). I used the strip lighting to light the ball trough (9 led's, or 3 segments of 3), and today, I added more led strips above the fake field light stickers at the top of the machine (each side had 6 led's, or 2 segments of 3). All of these have been posted about, and again, many have done these mods. I take no credit for anything, except my placement of the spot lights, and the lock light.

In one photo, you can see where the strip (just one side) is mounted to the underside of the frame, just behind the stop for the glass, and directly over the sticker with the field lights (when the playfield is in playing position). Again, these lights are mounted on main body of the machine, not the playfield, and this picture was taken from inside the main body, looking up. One wire leads accross to the lights on the other side, and the 2nd is the source power, going up through the large, rectangular hole to the back box.

The other photo is just one to see what it looks like with the playfield in playing position. From accross the room, it actually looks like the field lights are actual lights, yet they are just lit from above. Also in the playfield photo, you can see all the other mods I mentioned above, if you look closely.

Obviously, I have all led lighting throughout. One thing that does not show in the photo are the pop bumper lights, which are the disc kind from Comet Pinball, in green, with white down lights that light the posts. I also have lighted flipper buttons (blue) and a lighted magna-save button (red) which lights with the feature.

I hope some of these mods inspire some others to do some of the same, or come up with their own lighting or feature mods.

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Those flood lights on the back board look great being highlighted by the strip lights! Great idea - I'm going to copy that.
On your photo it really looks like they are lit up.
Last thing you might want to consider are mirror blades. Instead of mirror blades are there side panels available for this machine?

I have never tried to remove the front plastic on one of these panels, though I have wanted to try. I've heard they vary a good bit on how difficult they are to remove. I guess some are just stuck on better than others. I also didn't know the grills were stapled on...or rectangle.

Thanks for the post and pictures.

Yes, those stickers actually look like lighted bulbs. And the photo is understating it. It's a great effect. I had seen others here do it, and thought I would copy. White light is the kay.

As for blade kits... I have seen a couple installed, but have never seen a kit for sale. This machine is already "busy", so was thinking something simple, like blue skies and clouds, instead of the flat black I have now.

Some machines just look better bright, while others with deep glowing tones. I am going for bright, as it is an outdoor soccer theme. If I had a Tron or Adams Family, I would go the other way.

Now that this machine is feelinf "done", I really wanting another. I would love a White Water for my next, and brighten it up as well.

Second ramp finished. I'm down to the pf now.

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I got a lot of PMs recently about the stencils. Just a general heads up it's show season for us so super busy getting that ready and I used up all my stencil material so these won't be available for several months

After using mine (thanks again) I mailed mine to another owner to use. Perhaps others can share their stencils as well.

If anyone has a really nice WCS that would be willing to sell, let me know as I am in the market. Thanks

Are these Cliffy's, or factory pieces??

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Those are the standard ramps.

side blades at tilt graphics
I recommend them

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I really like those side plates! I think I have to get some too.

I finally got time to print out a soccer ball shooter handle this weekend. I'm happy with it. What say you gents? Time to drill it out and paint it

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Well done. Looks great. Shall we call you Mr. 3D from now on lol.

Thank you!! Lol no, not quite. I've still got allot of practicing to do yet.

Where are you going to mount that? Looks good!

Can someone explain "victory lap"? What is it, how is it achieved? How does it rack up points?

After you climb the ladder and defeat Germany through the regular final draw multiball it kicks in. While you still have multiball going, ramps and I believe any extra goals award a victory lap. Worth 50 million each. Very fun.

I was thinking about putting it at the entry of one of the ramps

Does the left blade need to be modified for a WCS, to allow for the magna save button? I have been thinking about mirror blades (can be found for about $85), but am concerned about the extra button, and the potential need to cut a hole in the metal blade to make it fit.

The ones i have i did not have to do anything to them
Mirror blades i dont know
I have mirror blades on my nascar i will have to look
and see how low they go by the flippers

Mirror blades fit fine.....that's what I have....

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Is the right ramp really hard to hit or am i just not very good at this game?