Oh man, I totally want to put lightning flippers on mine now...that's evil.

Are they different in any way, except for the lightning bolt, and they are yellow instead of white?

i think they're a little shorter.

is it possible to run and not screw down the soccer ball? i just got a new one and it wasn't pre-drilled. it feels pretty snug without it.

Weaverj, I had the same issue with my Marco soccer ball replacement. I posted about this a few pages ago. You don't need to worry about the screw at the top. If you install it around the base plate correctly, it'll work fine without issue.

Lightning flippers are shorter, yes.

The ball will donfine without the screw. It wont exactly fly off. Just check that it doesnt wobble too much, as some simply will do.

Speaker stencil just arrived the othe day, can't wait to do those grills up. Thanks PinballBulbs!

yeah, looks like i have all the hardware in there. the diverter gets stuck in the middle of the ramp on occasion. there's slop some where. hmm.

any brave souls repair plastics by cutting spare pieces and fitting them in broken spots? my right gate ramp ticket sign has a chip missing. wondering if i could cut a piece of a spare plastic i have and filling in the chip. not sure how i would get the color to match at all, however.

The simple answer is: no
Will never look good. As a matter of fact it will look better as is than trying a cheap repair job. Just try to get a new plastic. www.pinball.center has quite a few.

Try using a couple nylon washers on each end (above the ramp, and under the table) and then some teflon/silicone spray on the pivot rod, and all the joints in the linkage, as well as the solenoid pin (I use the struff from DuPont). There is not much to this arm, it's basiclly a low powered flipper, in terms of how it functions.

okay, i guess being a re-import, it could have oxidized some of the parts in there. i know my lock bar is really stiff.

where exactly you talking about greasing?
Untitled_(resized).jpg

In your diagram above, 10d is a metal washer. I recommend that you replace this with a thick, or a couple thin, nylon washers, and once the rod is through the playfield, put another on the bottom before re-attaching the cam (part #8) to the rod. This will help it turn better without binding, and will also raise the diverter off the ramp a little bit so it does not scrape, like it did on mine before I bought it.

so you're saying the metal washer is a little abrasive, and nylon would have a smoother action? and you're saying "bologna sandwich" the plastic ramp between two of these by adding a washer underneath?

Yes to all. But lubricating all the pivot areas as well.

Came in the mail when I got back from Allentown. Thank you and Cheers to you

pretty sure it's a height issue. when i have the playfield down and i move it to the right, it won't go back to the left the whole way. if i lift up just a little bit on the pivot point, it goes back.

The diverter shaft passes through ramp the hole in ramp and gets worn and diverter drags on ramp.I found a brass bushing at hardware store to eliminate slop and hold diverter high enough to keep it from dragging and sticking

This is why you add the nylon washers... To create enough clearance. Then it will swing either direction with no friction at all. I avoid metal washers where I can. Nylon washers are great for keeping plastics from breaking too, like where the ramps attach to the struts, or the struts attach to the sling shots. Plus, they come in white or black, and blend in. Nylon == Good

quick fix: cut 1/4 inch off a post rubber, cut a slit, and put it between the metal clamp washer and ramp. works like butter.

Hey guys, I'm caught up enough with orders if anyone is looking for the stencil for the speakers again. I had about 7 unread PMs requesting it and those got it (if you sent your address, if not i moved on so resend)

If you are looking for one send a PM with name and address please

spoke too soon. it passed the game off, hand-use test. not so much during game play. yeah i need something harder than rubber. it's a little sticky.

what is the diverter test suppose to do? go right, go left, go right? mine slaps right and rests far left in one pulse.

Mini playfield came back today .smooth as glass

WCS_096_(resized).jpg

Nylon washers! Cost only penny's each. And, make sure your solenoid has the recoil spring installed correctly. Plenty of pictures if you read back a few pages.

Another little mod I did today. Blue scoop light for TV award and red scoop light for final draw. I added two new stand up light sockets and some coloured flex leds (simmilar to the white ones below) to shine inside the scoop.

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I had thought about doing this same thing... I have a bunch of #44 sockets, but only a single, orange flex light. I will have to get a couple brighter red and blue bulbs and do the same.

I like the cut of your jib.

my drain trough, shooter lane kickout is a bit rough. doesn't always get the balls out. it goes into search mode for a bit, then a ball pops out. coil part # is correct and visual inspection was okay. is there a known issue or is this a little something with all mid-90s wpc's?

Common problem. Most likely you drain trough optos are dirty/damaged or the entire opto board is faulty. First remove the left and right ball trough opto boards. While still attached to power cables turn on power use your phone camera to see if all the UV leds are working. Turn off power. Second clean the lenses. Third inspect the board for any damage loose solder connections visually and with multi meter.
You can also test the ball trough optos in the test menu but you have to take out the boards anyway to check for damage. That's why I skipped that option.
Report back what you found.

Start with cleaning. Dirty optos are the problem 9/10 times.

yeah, this thing is filthy. i'll check them out.

how do you take the start button apart? i assume there's an incandescent in there, since it gets so damn hot. i'd like to replace it.

i fingered out the start button.

how do you see if the trough opto leds are working? do they light up?

wish someone would have told me not to mess with these button lights. broke the extra ball contact holder. it's a snap-in piece. my extra start button was a bayonet type, so i was trying to twist the f'n thing. once i get it off, it looks like i need a smaller led than i have. my flat-tops look like they're going to be too big. man, i was screaming and yelling down there.

My HUO WCS94 had this same problem temporarily. I put a little lube on part 5 in that pic above and haven't had a problem since.

Button light are always hell on any game. Some are bayonet, some you just pull and push with a snap. They usually break somehow before you realize which it is. And they are usually old and brittle. My recommendation is to not touch if they work, and yes, sometimes they require a really short led like a superbright or flux.

Already answered for you on post 2379. Mobile phone camera can see UV light.

I had mentioned before that I recommend that you read this group from the beginning. Things like the ball though and the lights in the buttons have been covered before, along with a lot more useful information. I did this in the beginning, and it really helped me, and kept me from making mistakes. That said, I had trouble with those buton lights as well. I had to dremmel sand the LED bulbs around the outside to get them to fit. They are tricky to get apart if you have not opened one before. And for the ball trough lights, do a switch test. Each of the optos is on the switch matrix. When my trough started acting up, it was actually a broken wire on one of the striker targets, which was in the same "row". The actual problem was far from the trough or opto controller. The switch test revealed that in seconds.

yeah, i wasn't bitching at you guys, more myself than anyone.

almost time for new thrones!

Hey guys!! Hopefully I'll be bringing one of these home tomorrow and joining the club. I have a question, what is/are the differences between the standard WCS and the prototype??

Proto, or sample?

Some differences in Proto to Prod include -
4th Striker target between left ramp & TV scoop.
Outer loop right 2 switches.
Switch on right ramp on drop-thru to pop bumpers.
No aux flags on Boston & DC cities (Hurry up & extra ball)
Earth/World covering bottom of PF is less contrast (no green?)
"Ultra Goalie" lightening insert is "Ultra Ball"
Kickback inserts are numbered.
Large "GOAL" insert is green instead of yellow.

-Mike

You can see differences here:
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2811

Anybody has a picture where all the rubbers go on WCS?
There are no instructions in the manual for this and there are some really similar rubber sizes in the kit.
Hope for a picture, instruction or at least a tip.
Thanks.

I know what you mean. I had purchased a kit with white rubbers, to replace the black ones on my machine. I removed each old one, and put one of the same size back on. However, there is no such thing as an unmodified pinball machine, and posts get changed, or removed. I found that I had left overs that were the wrong sizes for where I needed them. I just ordered some small ones in varying sizes to fill in the gaps. The kit's are not necessarily going to be a perfect match for what you need.

Also, the rings on the double lane above the pop bumpers are tough... You have to remove the ramps to get to them.

I too am in need of a rubber ring placement chart. I reached out to a possible source and if I get a copy I can send it to you.

I found these pages, which I received with my kit. I attached as a 2 page PDF. If you download the file and print it, you can see the sizes on page 2, and they should be fairly close to scale. Hopefully, this is what you are looking for.

WCS_Rubber_Locations.pdf

A few days ago, I received my 6v led strip from BioBa in Australia (thanks dude!). Basically, there are 3 lights, then contacts, then 3 more lights, then contacts, etc... At that contact point, you can cut, and solder, peel and stick. I used 3 segments (9 lights) for my ball trough. It was super easy to install, and connect to the GI lights on the left slingshot. Many have done this, but in different ways. BioBa was kind enough to sell me long segment for $12, and I have more than enough to do the trough, light the fake lights flanking the top of the play field, and much, much more. There are many colors to choose from, but I decided to go white in this case. This is what the flipper area looks like the strip in the trough:

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YES YES YES!!! Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for. I messaged PCX on Ebay yesterday actually asking if he would sell me this sheet separate form the rubber set and he said that since I was already a past customer that he would email it to me no problem. I have yet to see it, but all is well now!!! Thanks a ton Dleasman

That looks great!!

So I have had my WCS two days now and I love it. Feels goto acquire another grail. I got bored today and decided to do some 3d printing. I'm going to attempt to do a world cup trophy for the field and a soccer ball shooter knob.

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By the way, I have read allot of people post that some of the rubber kits for this machine that are out are incomplete and are missing rings. Were you able to complete your entire machine with the PCX kit??