Are there original translites available for this game anywhere? Mine is pretty trashed and I would like to replace it with a nicer one, thanks. -Tommy

I can't believe you want to restore this machine. It looks like EVERYTHING needs replacing. It's going to be a money sink.

It doesn't need to be restored to perfection. Just presentable and playable. Not everybody wants 100% on all machines.

I had a lot of difficulty finding mine. I put a watcher on ebay. However, since then, I did find this place in the UK, which appears to have the single piece and also appears to have the entire set (most sites say out of stock). Again, this is the only place I know of that has the part in stock.
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/6313/world-cup-soccer-plastic-31-1925-25-sp?c=2109

Getting plastics piece meal is going to take a really long time, plus it will be costly. I would recommend getting the entire plastics set, and have everything matching, and new. Any salvagable plastics you have can be cleaned up and put on ebay, to lower your cost even more.

I admire your ambition to restore this machine, and I realize that it not everything needs to be restored immediately. Maybe you don't even need the plastics right away... But if you do, I would say to just get em' all as a package.

I did a quick search and could not find anything. However, you might want to contact Marco Specialties. They have stocked it in the past, and may be able to help you find one. Again, currently, they are out of stock.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1357-50031

You are correct the piece runs under the left ramp and up behind the goal

Plastic sets are available here:

http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html

Except that they are out of stock.

They have it with the bare coin toss plastic, just the screened one is sold out.

Thanks for the info and advice.

Okay so my magna flipper button switch isn't registering at all. I've checked it, the contacts are making a good connection but it doesn't activate the magnet, and it doesn't register in switch test at all. Anyone help point me in the right direction? Thanks. -Tommy

Check your coin door interface board, and then follow the wires back up to the backbox.

One thing I like about his game...
Even if you're having a *bad* game - you're STILL having a good game.

I've followed the wire, is there a fuse for it that I somehow missed in the manual by chance?

Post some pictures of what all of the local guys missed out on !

Haha I don't think you missed out on much, it was priced pretty fairly reflective of condition. Back had some water on it at some point, is painted completely flat black. Complete cabinet fade, and lots of scratches, gouges, etc....broken glass on translite, translite itself trashed, magna flipper button not working at all, and at one point last night the game when completely haywire while I was playing so I'm suspecting some CPU issue here. I went through and redid all connectors and pressed the roms in a bit as several were loose and it didn't happen again but who knows. The coin door is also trashed, has a piece of metal riveted over the coin slots and is also painted with a brush a matching flat black to the back of the cabinet.

All of that being said the playfield is nice, only 1 missing, and one cracked plastic, and it plays close to 100%. I did have a weird issue yesterday where once a ball was locked if I shot the left ramp again it would cause the back right loop gate coil to fire quickly two time, it turned out they had wired the left ramp entrance switch diode on in reverse, and by reverse I mean they didn't solder it to the correct side of the switch and instead didn't solder it at all just stripped enough of the white wire that they could then tie the white wired in a knot around the diode itself.

The machine had just been serviced last week by a local repair guy out of plainfield. They gave me the invoice. He seemed to really overcharge them and obviously didn't seem to do much to fix the game. On the invoice it says he replaced batteries, two fuses, and rebuilt a connector. You wouldn't believe what they were charged. Felt bad for them, but honestly its probably a $1800-2000 WCS. All I know is Erin my girlfriend who coaches soccer was super happy when I surprised her with it, oh and also the fact that the sellers mentioned a guy from Rock Island was on his way there the same time I was and I know there is a notoriously poor seller/flipper from out there I was happy to beat him to it.

Sounds like a pretty decent score! Hope everything is an easy fix. I don't have much experience with local repair guys. I usually use a guy in Oak Park for my full shop-outs and he does a good job and is a real hobbyist. That Rock Island guy must flip pinball machines as a full-time job - I remember getting extreme low-ball offers for some machines I put on craigslist .. and somehow he was always the first person to send a message! Good luck getting it going 100% and enjoy the hell out of it!

Yeah overall I'm very happy with it for sure. And it plays pretty well. Family said they have owned it for 8 years and haven't played it much. Legs still look brand new, and no obvious hacks that I have found yet. Rubbers are newer. Just need to get that magna flipper working. Going to test the magnet when I get home today to see if that is working on its own test.

For testing the magnet... You may want to try this.
The OTHER magnet on the ball capture is near by, and both have the same connecting plug, so you can swap them, and that should determine if the problem is the magnet or the power to the magnet.
I did this myself recently, when my ball capture quit working. It took me a little while to figure out, but in the back box, the top left board is the fliptronic controller, which has 6 fuses that were hidden behind the interconnecting ribbon wire. The fuse for that magnet had blown, because it had been replaced with the wrong size fuse at some point.
IF you issue turns out to be a fuse, these are the correct fuses, and readily available:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009083MWG

Hope you figure it out.

So the magnet works for goalie magna save. The switch does not. Can't figure it out. Grrrr.

From this point, I would take a multi meter and test if you have power for the magna save right where the connector comes off the controller board in the back box. I would also try swapping the fuses between the two magnet controllers. As I am sure you know, the Fliptronic II board controls the flippers and the magnets. The fuse for the magna-goalie is "lower left flipper" or "bottom left flipper". The actual flipper are connected to the "upper" or "top". This seems backwards to me, but whatever... Corrosion can keep the fuses from making good contact, so I recommend swapping the fuses for the lock magnet and magna-goalie (the 2 bottom/lower flipper fuses).

Also, in the manual on page 3-6, you can see that the magna-goalie magnet connect to J907, for +50VDC, with the red-violet wire, and J902 yellow-violet. You should be able to test for output power right there.

Again, hope you can solve the problem.

How is the magna save meant to work anyway? I am not sure if mine works or not. In solenoid test the magnet works but I am not sure if it does during play.

He said the magnet works, the switch don't.

So, remove the switch from the button. Test it. Test the wires running from the coin door board to the switch. Then test the wires runnign from the CPU to the coin door board. (If the coin door board is wired in-line.. it may not be..!) Work your way down - somewhere there's a break in the signal.

When you have one in-game, the light insert is lit - hit the button and the magnet activates 'catching' the ball. If the light's not lit, it won't do anything.

As for *usefulness*.. well.. I've never, ever used it.

This is pretty much spot on... for me, the only situations MagnaSave is useful are a slow motion center drain or controlling a failed flipper pass.

Fast drains just whiz on by as if the magnet doesn't exist.

Hey guys. Joining the club as I bought my WCS last night. Overall a very solid machine which just needs some TLC to be a killer player. Even after setup last night my friend and I were shocked in how well everything worked mechanically.

I just ordered a ton of little items to get the shop job going, also inquired about the Cliffy's, but since I'm going to be taking this thing down to the bones, I searched this thread for LED and the impact looks amazing. I'm absolutely going to LED mine, but was wondering if the consensus is to go with the post below (I don't think I saw a completed pic of that combo), or to use one of the kits.

I have been concerned with some photos I've seen where it looks too heavy on the purple in the PF.

Had this same question. I figured there was an easy solution. Trap the ball in the left flipper and then hit the Magna Save. Does the ball move? Worked for me.

Right... I thought he meant the power is not being switched.

The Magna-Goalie button is part of the matrix, switch 12, which is orange-red (J205-2) and brown (J207-1, U20-18). Because it is part of the matrix, it must might need a diode. It's possible that there is a leaky diode, or if the diode were missing. So, if the switch test does not read a press, then it could be because of the diode. Another thing to check is to see if that pin on harness side of the connector to the main board has some loose. I recently had a bunch of GI lights out, and it was because of a loose pin connection in the molex connector.

Ah Ha, there is no diode on the bottom of that flipper switch where the two wires are attached! Anyone have the ability to snap me a picture of what theirs looks like?

I am currently assuming that there should be a diode, because it is on the matrix, however, I have not looked at my machine to confirm that it should be there. I will look at mine when I get home, if no one else gets to it first.

Thank you very much sir! I tried zooming in on some of the pictures on HEP's website but I still couldn't tell for certain. I really appreciate it.

Well, mine does not have a diode on the switch, and mine works fine. This button/switch is on the matrix, but perhaps the diodes are only needed for the light matrix.

So, just to confirm... You found that your magnet works, and activates when you trigger it on the solenoid test? And it can hold a ball? Also, when you run the single switch test, you do NOT see the switch close indicator on the screen? If not, then you need to trace the wiring, and see if it is damages somewhere. But again, once you get to where it connects to the main board in the back, check to make sure the connection is good. You can remove the connector, and inspect it, and then re-attach. Be sure the power is off when you do this.

No diode on mine either.

Thanks guys...I tried tracking the wire and can't seem to find any issues. Again I know it isn't a huge aspect of gameplay but I just like my stuff to be working 100%.

I got the kit from pinball bulbs and it was OK. A little annoying that it was overly purple and missing a couple when you are expecting a few extras. I ordered some extra warm and cool white, some yellow and flasher bulbs. Look at your manual to see what type and how many you need of each and color match them up would be my suggestion or spend more money for convenience and get a kit but expect to order extras.

I got mine from Marco Specialties, along with a bunch of other parts. The kit was good, with a variety of color, not too purple. In face, I think just the 3 kick holes and the city lights are the only purple. All of the back box lights are white, which is fine. It had all of the necessary lights, but no extras. Instructions were not bad. If installing the kit, one should have the manual to help determine the location of the lights. Only a few are difficult to change (on the top side of the board). Most go in from under, and are twist in, bayonette, or you remove 1 or 2 screws to drop the the socket board down for lamp changing. As I recall, the difficulties were the pop bumers and things near the goal. Overall, it's not too big of a chore, compared to other machines. My kit was stock lamp replacement only, except that it included clear flipper buttons and green backlighting, which I eventually installed.

This just popped into my head... The lights for the Start and Extra Ball on the front of the machine are difficult to change. The sitch/light assembly pops out of the back of the main button tube, but it is difficult to do without breaking the assembly. BE CAREFUL with this. My start button DID break, but I was able to glue it, and it has held thus far. I also had to remove the dome and grind down the besel with a dremel to make the bulbs to fit inside of the buttons. This was by far, the most difficult part of the bulb swap.

My replay is set a 1,400,000. For some reason when I make that score and my current ball ends it shows replay on the DMD and then the game just ends. Do I have a setting wrong or am I misunderstanding something?

Try looking at/changing the in adjustment menu: A.1 07 to 14. You can also go to the utility menu: U9 07 - Install 3 Ball, which should reset the replay options back to stock, and then you can tweak it in the adjustment menu after. Or, you can try a system reset, but that will reset all of your high scores.

5 ball at a friend's house...

20160312_230407_(resized).jpg

Yikes! My high is still 6,836,112,990 on a stock 3 ball configuration, no buy in.

I assume you made it to the world cup more than once. I have never been able to to do that. Pretty amazing score!

Yes, twice, beat Germany second time. I did not use buy in. Honestly, I don't really know the rules, but the shots are pretty easy to hit. Game is a blast. I had 3 billion on ball 1.

Did anyone know how to get the ball motor/gear soften. Mine is extremly loud

I removed mine and carefully lubricated mine with dupont teflon/silicone spray, and it reduced the noise a great deal. It is gear driven, and that is mostly what you are hearing. I did not spray any inside the motor. Just at all the places where the shaft rotates, and the gears.

Isnt it possible to build in a gearless motor

One of my lighted flipper buttons blew out, and I decided to replace 3 leds on each side with blue, instead of the green that I had. While I was in there, I thought it might be fun to have the magna-save to be a lighted button as well, in red, and have it only lit when magna-save is lit. Here is a pic of the board mounted around the new, clear magna-save button. I do not have it connected to the main board, as of yet. Need to get some wire, and then I can wrap that up.

20160317_134810_(resized).jpg

Great idea! Did you use 6V or 12V to power it and where did you tap in for power?

The board is 5V, with the 2 red led lights on it. They are not as near as bright as the blue, and there are only 2 instead of 3 lights, but it works good. Since I wanted it to be on with the indicator on the play field, I just tied it in with that light... well... kind of... The wire I had was not long enough to make it to the orange arrow light by the magna-save, which is at the bottom of the play field. Remember, the cable comes down from the top of the field. Since the lighting is on a matrix, there were many places I could connect, unfortunately, none were at the top of the play field like I would have liked. I connected to the orange/yellow at rollover #3, and the yellow/violet on final draw (they are right next to each other, and both much closer than the magna-save). This way, I did not have to tap into any wires mid-way, which I do *not* like to do.

I just finished connecting it all, and it works great. Here is the final picture, and as you can see, the red is not near as bright as the blue, but it still looks great. Perhaps I will add a single blue, since I have a bag of them, and then it will glow purple.

20160317_154902_(resized).jpg

I'm about to buy cliffy's for my wcs. Thinking about paying extra for carbon fiber. Any thoughts