(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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There are 5346 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 107.
#2051 3 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

Du Pont Teflon Silicon lubricant, with part number D00100101

Thanks. I just ordered a can from Amazon.com and should have it by Tuesday.
I had been using a different silicone spray, which has not caused any damage, but it does not last very long.
Thanks again! You guys know everything!!!

#2052 3 years ago

I won 9 to 4 last night, but i haven't come close to beating that 4 Billion plus score.

#2053 3 years ago

10 goals but high score is only mid 3 billion.

#2054 3 years ago

So am I really incompetent at this game (probably), or is there no video mode?

#2055 3 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

So am I really incompetent at this game (probably), or is there no video mode?

No video mode. But you COULD be incompetent, too.. I couldn't say on that point.

#2056 3 years ago

Diverter Problem

My diverter is not working properly. It often does not open all the way (to divert left), and does not return when it is supposed to. I have taken it apart, cleaned, siliconed, re-assembled. I don't see a spring to return. Just a strain relief spring between the pin and the pivot. No recoil spring over the pin, like on other solenoids (manual confirms this)

When I fire the solenoid test, it only opens to divert left, but does not recoil. Again, is the recoil (closing) electronic or gravity/spring?

I need to know more about the solenoid. I have the number, and can get a replacement from marco for about $13.

This is a 3 wire solenoid. But what is the behavior? Does the solenoid push open and then hold, like a flipper, and release and return? Or, does it actuate in the opposite direction to return? I know it's dual coil, but I need more details, to determine if the solenoid is bad.

Any and all help appreciated.

-Dana

#2057 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Diverter Problem
My diverter is not working properly. It often does not open all the way (to divert left), and does not return when it is supposed to. I have taken it apart, cleaned, siliconed, re-assembled. I don't see a spring to return. Just a strain relief spring between the pin and the pivot. No recoil spring over the pin, like on other solenoids (manual confirms this)
When I fire the solenoid test, it only opens to divert left, but does not recoil. Again, is the recoil (closing) electronic or gravity/spring?
I need to know more about the solenoid. I have the number, and can get a replacement from marco for about $13.
This is a 3 wire solenoid. But what is the behavior? Does the solenoid push open and then hold, like a flipper, and release and return? Or, does it actuate in the opposite direction to return? I know it's dual coil, but I need more details, to determine if the solenoid is bad.
Any and all help appreciated.
-Dana

That coil is a Power/Hold - to move it, the power coil (Sol #08) will fire, and then the hold coil (Sol #16) will hold it. I thought it had a spring, but don't see one listed in my manual, meaning that gravity may pull it down.

#2058 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

gravity may pull it down.

I dont think it's a gravity return, as the solenoid is horizontal. The only spring is one that links the pin to the arm on the pivot. Today, I added thick nylon washers on the pivot rod, on top of the ramp, and inder the steel mounting plate under the table which helps a lot to keep it moving smoothly.

I suspect it's a pull and hold, like you said, but perhaps it reverses polarity to push it back?

Right now, it opens (pulls) but does not hold, nor does it return. 1/2 the solenoid being cooked would explain the problem.

I just ordered a new coil from Marco.

#2059 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I dont think it's a gravity return, as the solenoid is horizontal. The only spring is one that links the pin to the arm on the pivot. Today, I added thick nylon washers on the pivot rod, on top of the ramp, and inder the steel mounting plate under the table which helps a lot to keep it moving smoothly.
I suspect it's a pull and hold, like you said, but perhaps it reverses polarity to push it back?
Right now, it opens (pulls) but does not hold, nor does it return. 1/2 the solenoid being cooked would explain the problem.
I just ordered a new coil from Marco.

Okay -
First, coils cannot 'push', they can only pull - no matter which way current is applied.
It can be gravity - orientation of the *coil* dosen't matter - it's what's attached to the coil - i.e. If it's not binding at all, the weight of the diverter - the lower part - could be enough to cause it to 'fall' back closed (to the right, ball goes left).

If your coil is 'cooked' - then replace it and the coil sleeve - likely the sleeve is deformed and is not letting the diverter travel effortlessly.

#2060 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

More pics with it out of the game. What is that "glue" someone tried to use on it? Looks like Marco and Bay Area are out of stock. I hope this isn't an unobtaninium part.....
Part number appears to be:
A-17907.1 for just the plate
A-17908 for complete assembly
image_(resized).jpg
image_(resized).jpg
image_(resized).jpg
image_(resized).jpg

Found the Complete Assembly at Pinball Center in Germany. I received the Assembly within two weeks. Shipping wasn't overly expensive, and I bought a few other items to help justify it. When I received it, the screw holes on the brackets were a size smaller than original. I had a friend drill them bigger and finally got it installed.

Bingo! Works like a charm now. The cracked metal bracket was sapping the energy out of the assembly and it wasn't able to get it out of the hole.

WCS94 is back in business!!!!! Now back to beating those helpful Germans' soccer club.

#2061 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I dont think it's a gravity return, as the solenoid is horizontal. The only spring is one that links the pin to the arm on the pivot. Today, I added thick nylon washers on the pivot rod, on top of the ramp, and inder the steel mounting plate under the table which helps a lot to keep it moving smoothly.

I currently have three WCS94's (but one is torn apart right now) and I checked both of the working ones and they both have a spring on the plunger just like you would see on an upkicker or slingshot, but the spring on the diverter plunger is much weaker. I am not sure why the manual doesn't show the spring, but my diverter is working perfectly with it so I assume it needs it. Perhaps someone else can check their game to confirm it has a spring. Here are pictures of the spring on my two games to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

IMG_0016_(resized).JPG

IMG_0015_(resized).JPG

#2062 3 years ago
Quoted from Krankypants:

I am not sure why the manual doesn't show the spring

The manual DOES show this spring, but the spring is not for the close, it's just a strain release for the open.

I am still assuming the solenoid closes the gate be resersing polatity.

Again, half my coil is fried, so it's not even staying open, nor will it close.

I suspect the new coil will fix the issue.

#2063 3 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

It's an error in the manual, you need the spring.

Quoted from louvnj:

Yes, I have the spring on mine I had the same problem a month ago. Didn't realize there was a spring as its not in the manual, and the pieces fell down to the cabinet when it broke. I saw a small picture of the plunger online and noticed the spring. I ordered a plunger from either BAA or Marco (I forget which) and the spring came already on the plunger.
Installed, working great now.

Actually the spring I am talking about that causes the diverter to spring back is not in the manual. Apparently this issue is not uncommon. It looks like it has come up a few times over the course of the thread. A new coil and a return spring should get you back in business though.

#2064 3 years ago

Finally got my basket case WCS together yesterday with the help of another pinsider Cyroute I found I am missing one part, the bracket and the dog plastic pictured below, if anyone has any spares I would like to buy one, Marco has the plastic, but not the bracket.
It sure is a great pin

#2065 3 years ago
Quoted from Krankypants:

Actually the spring I am talking about that causes the diverter to spring back is not in the manual.

Yes, I see that now in your your pictures. I have added a spring, and it is now returning, but not holding well, which is the solenoid going bad.

The thick nylon washers/bushings that I added to the pivot rod, between the diverter arm and the ramp, and also between the metal mounting plate and the pivot arm has really helped. It swings smoothly, without scratching the ramp even more than it already is, and keeps it from moving up and down, making the solenoid actuate without resistance.

Thanks for the help. On to the next issue!

#2066 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

I found I am missing one part, the bracket and the dog plastic pictured below, if anyone has any spares I would like to buy one, Marco has the plastic, but not the bracket.

Turns out I am missing this entire assembly as well. I am VERY curious for more details. I have no plastic, mount, light, or even any wires for this.

First, I would like someone to confirm that this is the bracket I am missing:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044

If the above is correst, does the striker sticker go right on the metal? Or, is there also a plastic?

Second, what type of light and light socket board is it using for this? Is it a bayonet, or blade (555). Is this a board or socket that can be purchased?

Third, where does the wiring come from? What color(s) are the wires, and which harness do they come off of? Or, does it daisy chain from another component?

I really want to replace the missing parts, but am mostly guessing at this point. What I really need is a clear photo of the back of the striker billboard, to see the socket and how it's wired, along with info on what it connects to under the table.

#2067 3 years ago

There is an empty hole on the ramp plastic above the PPP bumpers on my game....can anyone share what should go there?

Something doesn't look right to me....any help is appreciated.

image_(resized).jpg

image_(resized).jpg

#2068 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

I found I am missing one part, the bracket and the dog plastic pictured below, if anyone has any spares I would like to buy one, Marco has the plastic, but not the bracket.

Quoted from dleasman:

Turns out I am missing this entire assembly as well. I have no plastic, mount, light, or even any wires for this.
First, I would like someone to confirm that this is the bracket I am missing:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
If the above is correct, does the striker sticker go right on the metal? Or, is there also a plastic?

It is just that metal bracket with the sticker applied directly to the metal (there is no plastic). The light is a 555 and I remember my LED bulbs wouldn't work in it because they are too "short" and you couldn't see the light through the hole so I had to use an old red incandescent light I had laying around. Here is the best pic I have from my recent tear down showing the wiring. I can try to get better pics in the next couple days.

_MG_7960_(resized).JPG

#2069 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

There is an empty hole on the ramp plastic above the PPP bumpers on my game....can anyone share what should go there?
Something doesn't look right to me....any help is appreciated.

Something does seem weird in your pictures, but I think they are zoomed in to far to figure out what I am seeing. I have attached a pic from the container game I just restored (this pic was taken right after it was taken off the container so its very dirty, but you get the idea of how it is supposed to look). I don't really know how that "dangerous play" hole is supposed to work, but it is meant to be there and drop the ball into the pop bumpers. It would be a great skill shot if you could get the ball there with the plunger, but the only way to get the ball up there is with the flippers, so I think its pure luck if the ball is going slow enough to drop down that hole.

_MG_7922_(resized).JPG

#2070 3 years ago
Quoted from Krankypants:

It is just that metal bracket with the sticker applied directly to the metal (there is no plastic). The light is a 555 and I remember my LED bulbs wouldn't work in it because they are too "short" and you couldn't see the light through the hole so I had to use an old red incandescent light I had laying around. Here is the best pic I have from my recent tear down showing the wiring. I can try to get better pics in the next couple days.

_MG_7960_(resized).JPG

I would really like to see the bracket and possibly fabricate one myself, Marco has the decal, Thanks for the pic, Man that some serious dirt!

#2071 3 years ago
Quoted from Krankypants:

It is just that metal bracket with the sticker applied directly to the metal (there is no plastic).

Thanks for the info. I think I can get all the parts I need to rebuild the feature. I just need to know that the light connects to, to hook up. Can someone look when they are next under the table?

Oh, and the hole on the upper ramp, over the bumpers is just a simple drop hole, nothing more than what you see. It's only used if the ball does not have enough momentum to carry around. Great to have it there when ultra jets is lit.

#2072 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Marco has the decal

They also have the bracket/plate.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044

And this socket should work, with some nylon washers to hold it back drom the hole, with a nut and bolt.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5030-00

So, plate, nylon sticker, socket, and a few minor parts from ace hardware.

#2073 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

There is an empty hole on the ramp plastic above the PPP bumpers on my game....can anyone share what should go there?
Something doesn't look right to me....any help is appreciated.

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

In prototype games and early samples, there was a switch there - a gate the ball would trigger just before falling into the pop-bumpers. The switch was removed, but likely early ramps still had the holes drilled for it.

#2074 3 years ago

Should there be a post and rubber ring in that hole in the uppermost ramp, to the right of the top ramp hole that drops into the bumpers, like the pic of the container game above shows?

image_(resized).jpg

image_(resized).jpg

#2075 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

They also have the bracket/plate.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
And this socket should work, with some nylon washers to hold it back drom the hole, with a nut and bolt.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5030-00
So, plate, nylon sticker, socket, and a few minor parts from ace hardware.

Wow, perfect should be an easy fix. looks like we both need the same parts, I'll. check to see if there is a plug on my harness tonight for it. does it only light when the feature is active or stay lit the whole time during game play??

#2076 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

does it only light when the feature is active or stay lit the whole time during game play??

Yes, I think that is the purpose of the entire assembly. Hopefully you can identify the wiring for me. I just ordered the parts from Marco this morning (metal plate, decal, lamp socket).

Also, looking at one of the photos from above, I can see a the wires going to the bulb socket. One is red, the other is yellow, and then they are shrink wrapped. Because of the shrink wrap, I suspect that it connects below with a connector. So far, I have been unable to determine what this light connects to on my table. I am hoping someone has some information on this they can share.

Can't believe I was missing this piece, and and never noticed until now, after having the machine for almost 3 months. You can see in this video I took after I finished converting to LEDs, that I don't have that piece. It was only because of posts on this site over the weekend that I realized I don't have one.

#2077 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Should there be a post and rubber ring in that hole in the uppermost ramp, to the right of the top ramp hole that drops into the bumpers, like the pic of the container game above shows?

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

Yes, that should hold a post.

#2078 3 years ago

There is a guy doing some nice ramp work. If you need a WCS 94 ramp, he needs to know how much interest is out here. FYI

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps#post-2946103

Mac

#2079 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes, that should hold a post.

Can you, or anyone, post a pic of what it should look like?

Any info on parts and where to buy is also appreciated.

#2080 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Yes, I think that is the purpose of the entire assembly. Hopefully you can identify the wiring for me. I just ordered the parts from Marco this morning (metal plate, decal, lamp socket).
Also, looking at one of the photos from above, I can see a the wires going to the bulb socket. One is red, the other is yellow, and then they are shrink wrapped. Because of the shrink wrap, I suspect that it connects below with a connector. So far, I have been unable to determine what this light connects to on my table. I am hoping someone has some information on this they can share.
Can't believe I was missing this piece, and and never noticed until now, after having the machine for almost 3 months. You can see in this video I took after I finished converting to LEDs, that I don't have that piece. It was only because of posts on this site over the weekend that I realized I don't have one.
ยป YouTube video

I looked at mine, had to look in the manual for the colors Yellow/black Red/gray Light #48 on the matrix I found the colors and buried deep in the harness was the plug. I am ordering my parts tonight

P4270439_(resized).jpg

#2081 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Finally got my basket case WCS together yesterday with the help of another pinsider Cyroute I found I am missing one part, the bracket and the dog plastic pictured below, if anyone has any spares I would like to buy one, Marco has the plastic, but not the bracket.
It sure is a great pin

dog_(resized).jpg

See this thread, he lists the bracket you are looking for (not sure about the dog plastic):

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/selling-pinball-parts

#2082 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

I found the colors and buried deep in the harness was the plug.

Looks like it daisy chains to another light somewhere...

Just found mine, it was cut off!

20160202_083754_(resized).jpg

#2083 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Can you, or anyone, post a pic of what it should look like?
Any info on parts and where to buy is also appreciated.

There's a few images in the 'Game Archive', here's one:
https://images.pinside.com/c/b8/cb8f0b95fe6f2d128ca29e12d89eb8f87f2a319f/resized/large/cb8f0b95fe6f2d128ca29e12d89eb8f87f2a319f.jpg

#2084 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Looks like it daisy chains to another light somewhere...
Just found mine, it was cut off!

20160202_083754_(resized).jpg

Yup that's the right one, Your plug is still there, if your lucky it will be long enough to reach the bulb I am thinking the bracket should be riveted to the plastic around the Pop bumper

#2085 3 years ago

I'm having trouble with my World Cup Soccer kicking out additional balls into the shooter lane while in the middle of a game. It's come and gone for a long time - sometimes it goes away for months. I've replaced the opto boards in the trough and they don't seem to be the issue. The switch tests all seem to show that they are working fine. Anyone else had a problem with this? Ideas on how to attack this problem?

#2086 3 years ago

Possible the balls or the trough itself is magnetized. I had that happen on my IJ. Basically a ball will not move from time to time down the trough after landing in it. Then it does and the machine gets confused.

Easy first step would be to replace the balls then the trough itself. Also possible there is some debris in there causing it, like a piece of lint of something...

#2087 3 years ago

Divots in trough can cause problems the plastic shim is option to remedy it .Other possibility could be the idc connectors to trough opto boards try moving the connector in switch test mode .

#2088 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having trouble with my World Cup Soccer kicking out additional balls into the shooter lane while in the middle of a game. It's come and gone for a long time - sometimes it goes away for months. I've replaced the opto boards in the trough and they don't seem to be the issue. The switch tests all seem to show that they are working fine. Anyone else had a problem with this? Ideas on how to attack this problem?

I have. I will get that very occasionally. I also have a problem with the game thinking the ball in play has drained when it hasn't. I know it's because the LED on the trough board for the 5th ball is at times dimming or fading completely out. Messing with the connector does not really cause it to go on and off, but I want to try to replace the connectors anyway. I'm having a difficult time finding .100 connectors however.

#2089 3 years ago

Its likely a problem with trough switches .connectors , trough rail . I didn't think divots in trough could cause a problem but one of my games was acting up i took of the apron and played a few games and found that randomly when a ball was ejected the next ball in the trough would not roll completely forward which causes problem with optos reading correctly

#2090 3 years ago

This game rocks. So much flow and character.

#2091 3 years ago

It is likely a problem with the ball jam opto, as the coil will kind of half fire a few times before it fully kicks the ball out. I can't see any issue it the switch edge test though. It's always closed and opens appropriately when the beam is blocked. Also no switch firing when I bang on the playfield a bit.

#2092 3 years ago

I would check idc connectors. I had an intermittent connection that was causing the trough to send out two balls at the start of multiball. The idc with the problem was the large one in the middle of the cable that's comes from the 7 opto board (the board that the two trough boards cables go into. The cable that leaves the 7 opto board plugs into another cable that heads to the back box, it was this connector that had the issue. This connection is under the 1 Goal insert. That connection was hanging down and hitting the lockdown area so every time the playfield was pulled out, that connector got banged around. Took months to discover this.

For checking the trough idc's, you can go to single switch tests, select trough opto 1, and wiggle all the related idc's for the troughs. If you get lucky and find an intermittent break, you'll get that "ding" tone, a bit easier than trying to watch the screen. Then select trough opto 2 and repeat. Do all the Optos this way. I couldn't find my problem, replaced Optos etc. then happened to be in test on the right switch while working under the playfield, and then started hearing the "ding" sound, I was like, what the heck is that?

#2093 3 years ago

Thanks louvnj! I will check that out and see what I can find. The problem is really frustrating because it's so intermittent.

#2094 3 years ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

This game rocks. So much flow and character.

agree! rollovers, spinner, ramp shots, goalie target, skill shot, great multiballs, and intense final game against Germany. Nearly every single aspect of a soccer game is included, too...throw in, header, tackles, coin toss, corner kick, penalty shot, free kick, etc.... quite possibly the best sports-to-pinball adaptation. And every 2 years (counting mens and womens world cups), the game is currently relevant.

#2095 3 years ago

Still working on adding my billboard, but it's still a mystery, and I can't complete the addition of the part.

I have the billboard piece, and the lamp socket, and a lamp, and the wiring, and the required diode (this lamp is on the 8x8 matrix, and needs the diode, else it will cause lamps to ghost all around the table).

Clearly, the billboard does not mount to any existing hardware on my table. Above my top left bumper (jet), there are 2 posts, with a short rubber band between. I assume it mounts onto this in some way. I can't mount to the top post, else the angle is wrong. I can't mount to the bottom post, else I would have to cut away part of the bumper cover.

I assume that I am still missing a piece. Possibly a triangular piece that mounts to the top of both posts, and then allows the mount for the billboard to mount perpendicular, between the two posts?

There are no existing photos on this site, or any other that I can find, that clearly show this with proper lighting, and no obstruction.

Would someone please be so kind as to take some photos from the right side, and clearly show how the billboard mounts to the playfield?

Thanks,
-Dana

80spit,
I assume you are also looking to solve this, as you appear to be in the same boat I am in. If you have any additional information, or need info, please contact me. Thanks.

579b181847fea70a8ff24a3f32fb108d9a79d764_(resized).jpg

#2096 3 years ago

I installed mine already, It needs to be riveted to the plastic surround on the pop bumper, I riveted the lamp to the bracket, there is a hole for the wire to be run under the playfield, I did not install a diode, functions
great and now my WCS is complete. Pretty straight forward install

#2097 3 years ago

Not so easy to get a decent picture back there, also reveals how badly my wireform needs cleaning....but there are 2 rivets attaching it to header plastic.

image1_(3)_(resized).JPG

image2_(3)_(resized).JPG

#2098 3 years ago
Quoted from louvnj:

Not so easy to get a decent picture back there, also reveals how badly my wireform needs cleaning....but there are 2 rivets attaching it to header plastic.

THANK YOU!

No, it is not easy to get in there for a picture, but you did well.

Riddle solved... I am missing a plastic, and probably also that clear post on top, which is obviously to keep the ball from getting stuck.

Unfortunately, Marco Specialties does not have the part. I may need to make something out of a piece of plexi, just for the top portion that holds the billboard. Perhaps, one day I can locate the part. Looks like this:

248-285-thickbox_(resized).jpg

#2099 3 years ago

It's pretty common for the header plastic to get trashed. Best bet would be to put an ebay watch on it, various used WCS plastics come up for sale pretty often. You might be able to get it from someone who put a new set on their game. The entire plastic set was recently rerun, a few sellers still have them, ~ $160 for entire plastics set.

#2100 3 years ago

Just joined the club and this is also my first pinball machine. This one has a lot of significance for me. I've been searching for awhile and it's in great condition. Couple of questions.

I'm having one problem where the ball gets stuck on the right side bottom part of play field. Just a wrong size ring or something else causing the problem? I've attached a pic.

I've ordered LED's for this but not flashers. Can anyone tell me a list of what LED flashers they ordered for theirs? I am unsure of what quantity of colors for 906 and 89's.

Is the spinning soccer ball always really noisy, is there a way to make it quieter? I'm sure it is never silent but from my experience noise can sometimes mean things are rubbing together or there is more friction than normal somewhere.

Last question, I've read through this whole thread but wondering if their are any updated suggestions of where to get a new spinning soccer ball from? Mine is rather worn and doesn't seem to have any grip on it.

Thanks!

IMAG0049-768x1365_(resized).jpg

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