I'd like whatever one that interacts with the pinball most. If they interact about the same then I will get the brighter one then look for some sort of rubbery, grippy hair band to put around the base to give the game more ball action like I read from a member in another post.

I purchased the Marco replacement ball. After some play I noticed a bit of the black peeling off (probably due to the force of the ball spinning). I removed the ball, colored in the black with a sharpie and then sprayed the ball with some spray sealant:

http://www.michaels.com/grumbacher-final-fixative-matte/10316388.html

I did a lot of light spray coats on the ball. Re-installed and haven't had a problem. Haven't noticed any wear line around the ball either, but I have not played it a ton. I am not experienced enough to notice any difference in ball-action, but the 'corner-kick' from the left kick-out often results in a 'header goal', so there's quite a bit of action to it.

Reposting from:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-wcs-kick-plastic

I'm installing a new plastics set and plastic protector set in my WCS. The plastic directly below the ball was very warped. The new protector and plastic doesn't quite fit. Could anyone send me a photo of their plastic? I think I must have grabbed the wrong post when putting the game back together or I'm trying to put the plastic on wrong.

Photo:
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Yea...that one is kind of weird ....plastic actually bends to fit right....don't know if you can tell by the pics....I haven't installed my protector on this one yet....

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Wow. That is unusual. Others see the same thing?

Yep

This game is still one of my top earners!
I beats No Good Gofers ever damn month side by side!

Probably buried in this thread somewhere.....my goalie just broke...ordered a new decal and plastic from MARCO, but seem to remember there is actually a thin rubber pad behind ( mine is dried out, hence the break)....anyone know where to get one?....thanks....mark

Interesting. I am playing around with putting mine on location at our drive in theater this year.

Shop job almost complete. However, I've got a spare ramp bracket and can't figure out where it goes. Any ideas?

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Recently helped a friend buy a WCS.
The game is in amazing shape except for one issue.
The free kick mechanism in front of the goal is pretty weak.
I took the mech apart and checked the coil sleeve/stopper, put everything back together and all parts moved fine but it still is a very, very weak kick into the goal.

Thoughts?
Wrong size coil?
Bad solder joint(s) on coil?
Gremlins?

Thanks in advance all you WCS aficionados!
-Ran

Are there Cliffys ? If so, they have to be down tight...they tend to come up a bit over time ( mine did) and will kill the free kick...

No cliffy on this hole. Cliffys on all the other holes. Thinking its electrical and something on the board/wiring.

BAA?

I thought they were fairly common...

I ordered through Marco (decal and plastic)...just wasn't sure if the plastic the offer as the "goalie backing" is the same as the rubber...guess I'll find out in a couple of days.....thanks....mark....

For problems with free kick check mechanicals,is kicker mounting bracket pin loose or worn ? Is there slop in the plunger and link? Check the kicker arm is the bushing worn and sloppy? Is the end of the kicker arm worn and mushroomed?

So I dug deep into my Assist Hole kicker issue. I discovered this. Looks like the the eject cam assembly was cracked in the past and someone tried to glue it together. Is that what would cause the issue? Where is best place to buy a replacement?

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More pics with it out of the game. What is that "glue" someone tried to use on it? Looks like Marco and Bay Area are out of stock. I hope this isn't an unobtaninium part.....

Part number appears to be:
A-17907.1 for just the plate
A-17908 for complete assembly

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Hello, I am the proud new owner of a very nice World Cup, and I have a question about the Magna Save related to any playfield damage due to it getting stuck. Pinball Life sells a fuse kit for Addams Family to prevent this from happening on that machine, and it got me wondering if this is a concern on World Cup or not. Has anyway seen the MagnaSave magnet get stuck and burn the playfield? If so, does anyone do anything to prevent this?

Honestly, the magnet's not used enough for it to be a real problem. However, the magnet on your machine should already have a fuse on it, so this 'kit' is unneeded.

Just about anybody with access to a welder could take care of that for you. Try yellowpages.com and look around for a welder that wants to weld this small bracket back up for you would be my best suggestion. Be specific over the phone if its a place you will have to travel far.

Im having a similar weak free kick issue. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks so much, wilsonza! Hope you're able to diagnose and fix your issue!
-Ran

Fwiw, the MARCO plastic w decal is a perfect replacement ....plastic is thick and flexes to a degree...definitely designed for the job......I learned something new today.....

Just putting the finishing touches on my WCS. I got a replacement shooter rod from http://marcospecialties.com, and some soccer foosballs form http://amazon.com, and with less than an hour of work, I have a new shooter for about $13. It's a bit bigger than the original, but more fun. Also had to replace my goalie plastic and laminate image, because the other one just broke apart from being old and brittle. Again, got parts from Marco. However, the sticky back of the laminate image was so old, it would not stick to the plastic, so I used some spray glue, which has held it securely in place thus far.

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Newbe question of the day: WTF is a "cliffy"?, as in "No cliffy on this hole. Cliffys on all the other holes." in reference to kick holes.

Cliffy Protector. Used to protect the edge of the wood on a cut (kickout, hole, etc..)

Take the mechanism apart under the playfield and clean it and oil it. It's the arm that shoots the ball through the kick out plastic. That will fix it right up. Had the same issue with mine and that fixed it.

When I took the whole mechanism apart I actually did use a couple drops of "Super Lube Teflon Oil" on the metal joints and it was moving quite fluidly when I reassembled the whole thing.
I'm wondering...could the problem be where the kick out arm is hitting the ball? If memory serves, the arm seems to be hitting it pretty straight on but maybe it's hitting too high on the ball. Sort of like hitting the top of the queball in Pool?
Or is there a unique kick out arm for WCS that this game is missing?

Such a weird conundrum. The pinsider that sold my buddy the game noticed the weak kick out and told me about it and I was hoping the solve would be a bit easier. Oh well, at least everything else is stellar on this WCS.
If there are other thoughts I'm all ears.
-Ran

To be even more clear: http://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm

Hello, I would like to add a light that comes on whenever a goal is made.

I'd like to tie it into the goal flasher bulb so I use its logic for when to turn it ON/OFF and how long I want it ON for. Problem is my light is 6 volts and the flasher is higher.

Does anybody know of 6 volt input that would work for me that comes on when a goal is made and turns off after 10 seconds or so? Like are those smaller flashers 6 volts and or goal activated?

Probably not so does anyone know of an affordable easy way to run my 6 volt LED strip off the logic controlling the higher voltage "GOAL" flasher? I know I could probably wire up a relay of some sorts but seems like a lot of work for the outcome.

I don't mind if the factory flasher has to go in order to step the voltage down to 6 volts if theres a way to do that. They don't sell this light in anything higher then 6V or else I'd do that.

Thanks

This doesn't exactly answer your question but Art sells a 12 volt strip
http://www.cometpinball.com/3-SMD-12V-STRIPS-p/3smd12vstrip.htm

Probably covered somewhere in here before......did these originally come w gold hardware( legs, rails)? Anybody do one in brass? I'm contemplating......thanks...mark

The gold was on the legs, leg bolts, wire form/habit trail, coin toss assembly housing and a small piece on the right side of the shooter trough but not the lock down bar or rails. I also noticed that a handful of hex head screws/ bolts used on the ramps are gold colored.

I like the look and think you should have those parts plated in brass................ or in real gold (like Lexus car emblems/badges) if you want a one of a kind. Freshly plated parts will look right at home on a non-faded cabinet with bright yellows and golds because all the added gold color is used to emulate the gold World Cup trophy.

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Thanks.....am actually going through Mike Chestnut and going to go for it.......should look awesome!!! I realize I'm not going to "get my money back" if I was to sell down the road, but don't see that happening anytime in the near (or distant) future......

Nice WCS94 in Michigan $2600

My ball lock magnet quit working yesterday. I switched the harness with the magna-save and found that it would not work either, which indicated the problem was power. Took me a bit to find the blown fuse, because it was behind a ribbon cable, and I did not see it at first. The ball lock magnet is "bottom left flipper" on the fliptronic board. The actual flippers are connected to "top" flippers.

So, I was a bit concerned as to WHY the fuse would blow, at first. The manual says 3A 250V, and it's a slow blow fuse. But the blown one I pulled out was a 2.5A 250V. I am wondering if the fuse had been replaced with the wrong one in the past, or if the manual just says something different from what came off the assembly line.

I ordered a pack of 5 3A 250V slow blow fuses on Amazon.com from Game Room Guys, and for now, I have the fuse from the Magna-Save moved over to get the ball lock working. Does anyone ever really use Magna-Save anyway?

Just curious if other WCS machines have a 2.5A instead of a 3A, like the manual says.

Loop Gate uses same fuse, so that doesn't work either.

Strange question...
Anyone know who did the voice of the announcer in the game?

(I just played a VP game of WCS, and ended up with a score of 17billion. I was thinking of various ways to change gameplay.. )

Tim Kitzrow, same guy who voices The Shadow

Did not know he did The Shadow! I just knew he was the NBA jam guy.

Really! Wow!

Here is an interview with Tim Kitzrow....he also did Rod Serling on the TZ!

http://m.ign.com/articles/2000/02/16/breaking-into-the-industry-tim-kitzrow

Yes, I noticed the loop gate was not working. Again, I "borrowed" the magna-save fuse to get the ball lock going again. I have not noticed anything else not working with that fuse missing.

Also, what should I use to lubricate moving parts, like the upper diverter rod, flipper rods, pop outs, kickback? Any specific type of oil or spray? I was having an issue with the diverter, so I used a small amount of silicone spray, for now.

Anyone know if the voice that says "Ultra Spinner/Ramps/etc" is the announcer from Mortal Kombat ("Raiden wins", "Finish Him")? I tried searching once and couldn't confirm. Or maybe that is just Kitzrow too?

The guideline is don't lubricate anything! Any oil or lubricant will hold dirt and dust and quickly gum things up. All the coil driven mechanisms are designed to work dry. The sleeves inside a coil are replaceable, if the coil rod is not moving freely, take the coil off, clean the rod and sleeve. New sleeves are like a buck. There are small vacuum attachments that are great for cleaning those mechanisms.

That diverter mechanism is a little funky, mine didn't move fully sometimes. I eventually found there is supposed to be a spring that connects the coil rod to the bar that turns the mechanism (it's not shown in the manual). Mine broke and fell off. I ordered a new rod and when it came, the spring was on it. It isn't used to put tension on anything, but rather it just pushes and pulls the rod to make the mechanism turn to move the diverter.

I've used silicon spray quite liberally with good success and no damage. BUT you need to get the stuff that is safe for plastics (says so on the can) . I had a brand called "Van" that was great but that is no where to be found. I think I'm using one of the DuPont ones now and it was hard to find locally. Most sprays have solvents not good for plastics. I'll try to post what I'm using now.

Du Pont Teflon Silicon lubricant, with part number D00100101 very small at the bottom edge of the can at the vertical seam above the "made in the usa"
Says plastic and Oring safe
Almost all sprays have solvents that are not safe for anything but metal, so proceed worth extreme caution when shopping for one.
I tried something called RZ-50 that wasn't too effective for very long FYI

Just out of curiosity, what is your World Cup Germany goal record?

I won 8 to 4. My score that game was over 4.3 billion (my high score at this time). I have beat Germany many times since I brought in this machine at Christmas... Though I have lost a few times too. But, it's always a rush, as you keep shooting the balls through the coin toss, and shooting them at the goal.