(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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  • 6,001 posts
  • 542 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders

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There are 6001 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 121.
#1851 5 years ago
Quoted from bax:

Coyote,
That is a killer ball one!!
Not a bad use for a lunch time either.
I like that the virtual pinball is a representation of an actual pin. That beats the yahoo games star sky and hutch I sometimes kill my lunch break with!!

Yeah, at lunch and on the train commute is the only real time I play VP, if at all. It's nice playing games I used to play back in the 90's. The bad thing? Playing one and then going, "I really want this in my collection..!".

#1852 5 years ago

Tech help please. If flippers went dead out of nowhere where do I start. I did a flipper coil test and nothing is happening. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

#1853 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Tech help please. If flippers went dead out of nowhere where do I start. I did a flipper coil test and nothing is happening. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

fliptronic board? cant remember is wcs is fliptronic or not.

#1854 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Tech help please. If flippers went dead out of nowhere where do I start. I did a flipper coil test and nothing is happening. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Check the fuses on the fliptronic board. Most likely they blew.

#1855 5 years ago

I checked the fuses and they all were ok. Turned the game back on and flippers worked. I did remove one fuse and put it back in, so maybe that was it. Thanks!

#1856 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

I checked the fuses and they all were ok. Turned the game back on and flippers worked. I did remove one fuse and put it back in, so maybe that was it. Thanks!

Perhaps the fliptronic fuses have a cold solder joint. Id check that if it happens again.

#1857 5 years ago

I'm having problems with my World Cup Soccer spitting out extra balls during play. While you are playing your ball, you can feel that the machine is trying to shoot random balls out into the shooter lane. Most of the time, it is like the solenoid is only half-firing and the ball doesn't make it all the way into the shooter lane. Some of the time extra balls come out and sit there. The trough optos all seem to be working correctly and pass and edge test. Nothing seems to be getting hung up in the shooter lane either. Any ideas?

#1858 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having problems with my World Cup Soccer spitting out extra balls during play. While you are playing your ball, you can feel that the machine is trying to shoot random balls out into the shooter lane. Most of the time, it is like the solenoid is only half-firing and the ball doesn't make it all the way into the shooter lane. Some of the time extra balls come out and sit there. The trough optos all seem to be working correctly and pass and edge test. Nothing seems to be getting hung up in the shooter lane either. Any ideas?

Check your ball jam opto. If it's dim or blocked, this will happen.

#1859 5 years ago

Coyote is right, go into the switch edge test, take all the balls out first and load them in while in the switch edge test. Make sure all the optos in the trough are registering properly. You most likely have a bad transmitor in the trough.

#1860 5 years ago

I think it must be an intermittent thing because everything seems to be working fine when I do the switch edge test and drop the balls in one at a time. The problem itself is also intermittent. How exactly does the ball jam opto work? I'm assuming that it's the opto in between the first ball and the shooter lane. Nothing seems to be blocking it when this ptoblem happens, but I guess it could be misaligned.

#1861 5 years ago

The game treats the switch like this -

If it's detected as being blocked (I.e. There's a ball on top of another in the trough exit) the software "gently" activates the eject coil, giving it more power every time. The intent is to get the balls to settle back down into the trough. Eventually though, the kick is strong enough to eject a ball into the shooter lane.

Likely you either have a flaky led or receiver on the trough boards (giving you intermittent switch triggers) or a bad diode on another switch, making the game think the opto's blocked.

#1862 5 years ago

Yes, if one of the transmitters are going bad, it will be an intermittent issue until it eventually stops working all together.

#1863 5 years ago

Any way to test if this is the receiver or the transmitter, in case I need to replace the board?

Thanks for your help with this - it sounds exactly like what's happening.

#1864 5 years ago

It's most likely one of the transmitters but it's hard to test them until one goes bad.

#1865 5 years ago

I've tested all of the transmitters using an edge test and all check out okay. Could you explain how I can determine which swtich has a bad diode? I'm unsure which switch to start with. Thanks again - I know I'll get this figured out evenually. I have to, I love this game!

#1866 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've tested all of the transmitters using an edge test and all check out okay. Could you explain how I can determine which swtich has a bad diode? I'm unsure which switch to start with. Thanks again - I know I'll get this figured out evenually. I have to, I love this game!

Have you tried unscrewing the transmitter board from the trough and looking at each led through your camera phone to ensure each one is bright?

#1867 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Have you tried unscrewing the transmitter board from the trough and looking at each led through your camera phone to ensure each one is bright?

If you have an iPhone, it only works with the back camera.
Also, use an old school flashlight to test the reciever optos. It won't work with a LED flashlight.

#1868 5 years ago

I need help with this IDC that came off and the black wire is disconnected from it.photo-4.JPG

#1869 5 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I need help with this IDC that came off and the black wire is disconnected from it.photo-4.JPG

Repunch it (*with a proper tool*), or replace it with a molex connector.

#1870 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Repunch it (*with a proper tool*), or replace it with a molex connector.

I need to know which slot to repunch it into and where it plugs in?

#1871 5 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I need to know which slot to repunch it into and where it plugs in?

That, can't help you with. At least, not until this winter, when I get my game.

#1872 5 years ago

Well I've finally joined the club! Picked up a project machine last weekend (6 hour drive each way ) with an extra PF, plastics sets, and a slew of extra parts. Unfortunately its not playable right now, but I'm looking forward to tearing into it for a full restore this winter!

#1873 5 years ago

Tmezel... That connector is not used in the game anywhere. Don't worry about it. I can take a pic of mine when I get home and post it so u know what pin the black wire goes to at least.

#1874 5 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Tmezel... That connector is not used in the game anywhere. Don't worry about it. I can take a pic of mine when I get home and post it so u know what pin the black wire goes to at least.

Thanks, I won't worry about it.

#1875 5 years ago

Curious: had some work done on mine awhile back which included the right flipper. The flippers are now at an even angle when engaged. I could've sworn that the right flipper should be at a slightly lower angle than the left. True?

#1876 5 years ago

I don't know of any games that have lower flippers that aren't symmetrically positioned (same angles and offsetting positions). Are there some?

#1877 5 years ago
Quoted from ellray:

I don't know of any games that have lower flippers that aren't symmetrically positioned (same angles and offsetting positions). Are there some?

Wheel of Fortune?

#1878 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Curious: had some work done on mine awhile back which included the right flipper. The flippers are now at an even angle when engaged. I could've sworn that the right flipper should be at a slightly lower angle than the left. True?

On mine they are even when both engaged.

#1879 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Have you tried unscrewing the transmitter board from the trough and looking at each led through your camera phone to ensure each one is bright?

I tried that and they all check out okay. I also tested each opto on the receiver board with a flashlight and did switch tests on all of the optos again and they seemed to work fine. I'm still getting the same behavior in the shooter lane - it's trying to unjam the balls and eventually kicking additional balls out into the shooter lane. A bad diode was also mentioned as a possible cause. Interestingly, I also get errors every once of a while on switch 16: Striker 3 (High). It will tell me to test that switch which will usually work fine when I test it and the error is cleared. I also notice that the Trough Stack switch is on the same row of the switch matrix as the Striker 3 (High) switch. Could these be related? Should I replace the diode on the Striker 3 swtich? Other ideas? Thanks for your help, sorry for the late reply as I've been out of town.

#1880 5 years ago

Striker 3 high is also a pair of optos right? I wonder if the problems your having isn't on the CPU? Go into the switch edge test and let it alone for ten minutes and see if anything registers on its own. If one of those optos registers or flickers, that's the transmitter I would replace.

#1881 5 years ago

I'm having problems lifting the playfield on my WCS game to do servicing on the underside, as the soccer ball does not spin during gameplay. I can lift it up just barely past the two bars, but I and several friends have tried unsuccessfully to pull it forward at all with all our might. I can't even get to the stage where it clicks and you can continue lifting.

This is about as high up as I can get it, and clearly it's propped up:

IMG_20150901_190233.jpg

This is how the mechanism looks on the left side when the playfield is in its propped-up state. Note the part with the spring doesn't hang down and is not touching the wood rail.

IMG_20150901_190418.jpg

On the other hand, this is the right-side mechanism. The part with the spring hangs down when the playfield is in the propped-up state, and notice how it seems to have derailed itself, scraping the wood rail quite a bit over time.

IMG_20150901_190529.jpg

When I try to jiggle it and pull forward, it seems to actually be stuck on the left side, while the right side has a little bit of give. Any suggestions as to how I can pull the playfield forward? My local friends are all EM experts, and not very big on WPC system knowledge.

#1882 5 years ago
Quoted from t3amaw3s0m3:

When I try to jiggle it and pull forward, it seems to actually be stuck on the left side, while the right side has a little bit of give. Any suggestions as to how I can pull the playfield forward? My local friends are all EM experts, and not very big on WPC system knowledge.

That right side needs to be popped up, meaning the front hook part shouldn't be pointing down like that. It should look like the left side. Carefully have someone pull the right side of the playfield forward ,to take tension of the hook bracket, toward the front of the machine and someone else needs to push the bracket "hook looking thing" up so it is parallel with that black piece of wood next to it. It looks a little bent ad the spring is broken or bent that would usually snap it back in position on its own. Maybe wear gloves so your fingers don't get pinched real bad. That's what I would do. Hope this helps.

#1883 5 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Striker 3 high is also a pair of optos right? I wonder if the problems your having isn't on the CPU? Go into the switch edge test and let it alone for ten minutes and see if anything registers on its own. If one of those optos registers or flickers, that's the transmitter I would replace.

I have done many tests on the optos but did it again today and didn't see any problem. When I started playing the issue was still there. I took a closer look at the Striker 3 switch and it looked like one end of the diode was a bit loose so I reflowed solder on it. I played again and it seemed to fix the issue until my ball drained. Instead of kicking out one ball, it was consistently kicking out two. Just two balls, and if I pulled one out and dropped it in the drain, it would immediately kick out another ball. When I did another switch edge test, I saw that there was some weirdness with opto 3 and it would start flickering on and off. If I pressed on the opto board I could get it to switch on and off. This was definitely new behavior so I pulled the opto board and saw that opto was a different color than the others - ball 3 uses LED 4. It still emits light, but I'm assuming that it has gone bad somehow (see photo). Does this type of behavior (kicking out 2 balls) make sense if opto 3 is out? It the best course of action to replace the opto transmitter board? I think I'm close...

20150902_195001.jpg

#1884 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Does this type of behavior (kicking out 2 balls) make sense if opto 3 is out? It the best course of action to replace the opto transmitter board? I think I'm close...
20150902_195001.jpg

First off, nice troubleshooting! That is without a doubt why 2 balls are spitting out at a time. Replace that opto and u should be good to go. If for some strange unknown reason it still happens, I would replace the first opto closest to the shooter lane. But if opto 3 was flickering in the switch test, that is more than likely the issue. Hopefully you have a replacement handy. If not radio shack sells them in pairs but their optos are reverse, the transceiver is dark colored and the receiver is clear. They still work fine though as replacements.

#1885 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

When I did another switch edge test, I saw that there was some weirdness with opto 3 and it would start flickering on and off. If I pressed on the opto board I could get it to switch on and off. This was definitely new behavior so I pulled the opto board and saw that opto was a different color than the others - ball 3 uses LED 4. It still emits light, but I'm assuming that it has gone bad somehow (see photo). Does this type of behavior (kicking out 2 balls) make sense if opto 3 is out? It the best course of action to replace the opto transmitter board? I think I'm close...
20150902_195001.jpg

Sorry, led 4 is probably fine, if led 3 was flickering in the switch edge test then most likely it is bad. Led 4 was probably replaced before you acquired the game and like I said they probably bought a pair of optos from radio shack, that's why it is a different color.

#1886 5 years ago

Actually, it's LED 4 that's bad (it maps to the ball 3 trough switch). It makes sense that it's been replaced in the past, hence the different color. Do you think I should replace the whole opto board seeing as it's been fixed (temporaily) once before? Would the replacement opto mean that the receiver board had been modified too? I don't really want to replace both boards if I don't have to. I haven't had a chance to pull it, it's a bit harder to get out. Thanks a lot for your help.

#1887 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Actually, it's LED 4 that's bad (it maps to the ball 3 trough switch). It makes sense that it's been replaced in the past, hence the different color. Do you think I should replace the whole opto board seeing as it's been fixed (temporaily) once before? Would the replacement opto mean that the receiver board had been modified too? I don't really want to replace both boards if I don't have to. I haven't had a chance to pull it, it's a bit harder to get out. Thanks a lot for your help.

No problem, glad to help. I would just replace the opto itself instead of the whole board. It's a relatively easy fix if you are ok at soldering. The receiver board is most likely fine. They do not go bad usually since the transceiver is the side that does most of the work. Do u know how to solder? Or have a descent soldering iron with a pointy tip?

#1888 5 years ago

I am OK at soldering, and I guess it makes sense to give it a try. If it doesn't work out I can always replace the whole board. I'll let you know how it goes.

#1889 5 years ago

are we also welcome in this topic? we are killing a world cup soccer pinball machine!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/we-are-building-a-minions-pinball-updates-every-friday

#1890 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I am OK at soldering, and I guess it makes sense to give it a try. If it doesn't work out I can always replace the whole board. I'll let you know how it goes.

If you want to pm me your address, I can send you a couple of pairs of optos, I have a bunch of new ones I keep as spares. Let me know.

#1891 5 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

If you want to pm me your address, I can send you a couple of pairs of optos, I have a bunch of new ones I keep as spares. Let me know.

Thanks for the generous offer, but I'd hate to put you out if they are something I can easily find at Radio Shack. Could you give me some idea of what to look for?

#1892 5 years ago

When I get home I'll take a picture of the bag they come in. I remember for sure they come in pairs in a clear bag with a white backing. The transceiver should be blackish and the reciver is clear. I think they were about $3 a pair. They were in the draws under led or ir section. You have a radio shack near u? I'd go get them ASAP.

#1893 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Thanks for the generous offer, but I'd hate to put you out if they are something I can easily find at Radio Shack.

The problem is Radio Shacks are getting harder and harder to find. Sprint bought them out and they are closing them all eventually. The 2 by me are both out of business.

#1894 5 years ago

Yeah, they closed a bunch by me too. Fortunately there are still a few left for now. I'll go check it out.

#1895 5 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Carefully have someone pull the right side of the playfield forward...and someone else needs to push the bracket "hook looking thing" up so it is parallel with that black piece of wood next to it.

Tried this just now... pulled on the hook looking thing / springy part with a coat hanger so it was parallel to the wood rail. Then I had someone try yanking forward on the playfield once again, but to no avail. Not sure what it could be stuck on. Time to start drilling? Some folks suggested it could take a few minutes' worth of jiggling before it cooperates.

#1896 5 years ago

I think I got the right thing, although it's blue. Can I leave the receiver on the other board alone or should I use both of these? I'll solder in the emitter tomorrow and see how it goes.

20150903_201750.jpg

#1897 5 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I think I got the right thing, although it's blue. Can I leave the receiver on the other board alone or should I use both of these? I'll solder in the emitter tomorrow and see how it goes.

20150903_201750.jpg

No just replace the emitter. Like I said, the receiver rarely go bad, well at least that's my experience. Can't wait to hear your results.
Do u have a desolder pump or a "solder sucker "? That will help get the old Opto off. If not u can probably get it off without it, it will just be slightly harder.

#1898 5 years ago

Also, u can cut the leads on the new opto a little shorter but make sure u keep on side longer so the Opto will be easier to snake through the board. Also make sure u have the notch lined up correctly, once u get the new one in place, bend the leads the opposite directions from one another to hold it in place while u solder, then cut them once the solder has cooled. Good luck.

#1899 5 years ago
Quoted from t3amaw3s0m3:

Tried this just now... pulled on the hook looking thing / springy part with a coat hanger so it was parallel to the wood rail. Then I had someone try yanking forward on the playfield once again, but to no avail. Not sure what it could be stuck on. Time to start drilling? Some folks suggested it could take a few minutes' worth of jiggling before it cooperates.

I'll take pic of mine and post it. Hopefully it will help. Standby for pics.

#1900 5 years ago

Here's the rails with the playfield fully pulled forward and locked in so u can tilt it upright.

image.jpg

image_1.jpg

image_2.jpg

image_3.jpg

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