Quoted from Rferullo:I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.
I am not at home but I believe this is correct. Been a long time since I shopped that game.
Quoted from Rferullo:I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.
I am not at home but I believe this is correct. Been a long time since I shopped that game.
Quoted from Rferullo:I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.
I think it's the other way around. You want the plastic (and bracket) but don't need the decal.
Quoted from Rferullo:Please add me to this club
I have a Striker question. As mentioned above I just got my game a few weeks ago and it was missing the striker billboard all together. The bracket and light were gone. I found a spare light cable from my NBA Fastbreak (from a replaced defender) and the plug underneath and the light works.
I got the striker bracket from Marco and the striker plastic but they don't align. I also see a striker decal but I didn't order it - now I wish I had.
I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.
Can someone tell me what exactly how the striker billboard is made. The manual has almost nothing on it.
THANKS!
Mine has the metal bracket with the decal stuck directly on the bracket. I also had previously scratched up my decal, so I bought that one from Marco and it was a direct replacement for what I had.
Quoted from ellray:I think it's the other way around. You want the plastic (and bracket) but don't need the decal.
Oops...hope you didn't listen to me. I checked it last night and it does indeed look like just a decal on the metal bracket (as everyone else has said). Sorry for the confusion!
I have wondered about this as well. It's confusing, but I think the plastic is actually a key fob or something that just uses the same graphic. Especially confusing since this bracket is often missing after its base, the header plastic, breaks.
are there any pinballs that look like soccer balls? I got some for my potc that have skulls and words on them.
I have a problem with the tv hole. When a ball drops in it it doesn't pop out it knows the ball is there just no activity from the solenoid. Any help would be great.
Got started on giving my WCS a teardown. Stripped the playfield down enough to remove the apron, which was a disaster. Before:
An hour of goo gone, peeling, scrubbing, more goo gone, scrubbing, buffing, applying shiny new PPS decal:
Looking forward to getting all those new plastics on there.
Quoted from aalucero:I have a problem with the tv hole. When a ball drops in it it doesn't pop out it knows the ball is there just no activity from the solenoid. Any help would be great.
Do the standard tests first -
Does it fire in solenoid test mode?
If not, then is the coil getting +50v?
if not, check the +50v feed to it (thicker wire).
If so, then something is up with the driver transistor or the driver wire (thinner wire).
I ran into another issue. I lost 5 switches today - they just stopped registering in the middle of a game. After checking the switch matrix I noticed that they are all in column 4 (Green/Yellow). I traced the wire as far as I could but didn't see a break in the line. Everything else works.
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this much farther. Any tips would be very helpful!
Thanks.
Quoted from Rferullo:I ran into another issue. I lost 5 switches today - they just stopped registering in the middle of a game. After checking the switch matrix I noticed that they are all in column 4 (Green/Yellow). I traced the wire as far as I could but didn't see a break in the line. Everything else works.
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this much farther. Any tips would be very helpful!
Thanks.
Visual inspection is good, but you'll want to use a multimeter and actually test continuity starting from the connector in the back box to each connection, finding where the break is. If the continuity is good from first to last, then you'll have to do some transistor testing on that driver.
Quoted from westofrome:Got started on giving my WCS a teardown. Stripped the playfield down enough to remove the apron, which was a disaster. Before:
An hour of goo gone, peeling, scrubbing, more goo gone, scrubbing, buffing, applying shiny new PPS decal:
Looking forward to getting all those new plastics on there.
beforeapron.JPG 36 KB
afterapron.JPG 29 KB
nice work! I need to do the same to mine and not looking forward to it. where did you get the decal?
Got it from BAA:
They also have a set for $1 more with a few more decals, but they're not pre-cut:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DC-AP-WCS
Quoted from wontwa:- anyone know the length of this missing post (or part #?)
Sorry for the delayed response here, but I'm not sure my pin has standard parts there. What I have is a cylindrical black plastic spacer (about an inch) that is attached to the Lock plastic with small tabs (through a hole in the plastic). A long screw threads through the spacer and down into the plastic below the switch. It does not slide through the plastic--it must be screwed through. Hope this helps.
wcs-post2.jpg wcs-post1-98.jpg wcs-post-431.jpgI'm not sure if this has been posted here, but if you tick the WCS box on this site (http://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/index.php) and then click search, you get the full BOM for WCS. Between the manual and that list, I've been able to figure out some part numbers and replacements for screws\posts\etc.
Question for everyone here..
What percentage of Goalie Hits do you have in your game (B.x 21, 'Goalie Hits')? Not having the real game and playing a VPin version, I thought the goalie was much harder to hit, but I'm at 574%.
When I worked on the game, back in the 90's, I never remember it being that high. However, that was over 15 years ago, so I'm just trying to verify my memory.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:Goalie? The goalie is easy to hit, but that's not normally the objective.
I know.. I'm also admittedly interested in stats. To compare against the VPin stats.
Quoted from Coyote:Do the standard tests first -
Does it fire in solenoid test mode?
If not, then is the coil getting +50v?
if not, check the +50v feed to it (thicker wire).
If so, then something is up with the driver transistor or the driver wire (thinner wire).
I tested everything you suggested I am NOT getting power to the coil the coil is working fine as I jumpered it to another coil to test. Any suggestions on what I should do from here?
I started a tear down of my newly acquired WCS, cleaned the playfield, replaced all the rubbers, etc. I started putting the machine back together and realized I did not label one part. Any one have an idea where the heck this thing goes, I can't figure it out:
I had that problem too. If I remember it goes on the ramp above the pops maybe. It has been a couple of years since I shopped one.
Quoted from aalucero:I tested everything you suggested I am NOT getting power to the coil the coil is working fine as I jumpered it to another coil to test. Any suggestions on what I should do from here?
Sorry, I had missed this earlier!
Are you not getting the constant +50v? If you're not, then follow that wire back and find the break, that'll fix your problem.
If you're not getting the driver wire grounding when it should fire, then either:
(1) The driver wire is cut somewhere. (Lose solder, came off another coil's lug, etc), or
(2) The transistors are toast.
You can check by manually firing it - grab a jumper wire, and connect it to the end (metal tab) of the driver xister, and the other end to ground. The coil should fire. If it does, then transistor is bad (or leading up to transistor is bad). If it does not, then driver wire from power board to coil is cut/loose somewhere.
Quoted from Coyote:Nono, if nothing else, I'll buy the game from you.
Okay, this means that the issue is ON the 10-Opto board, but not related to the chips or that diode.
If you HAVE a different 10-opto board (from another game, example) and try that.
If you don't, check the other diodes on the board. Check traces - make sure no traces have shorted. Check the wiring on the plugs, as well.
Also, try this - what do you get on the screen if you leave the 10-Opto board plugged in, but *disconnect* the Trough Opto boards?
Edit: Odd thing to check, but check the +12V DC coming into the Opto board, as well.
Sorry to butt in people,
I'm back to tell you Coyote that i've checked the 10-Opto board on 'The Shadow' which showed no errors. I then checked my CPU board on another WCS 94 and rows 1,2,3 and 5 appeared. Okay found the problem. Replaced U16, U17, U18, U19 and U20 chips on the CPU board again the errors appeared. Now i'm thinking it could be the U23 chip.
Quoted from Coyote:Question for everyone here..
What percentage of Goalie Hits do you have in your game (B.x 21, 'Goalie Hits')? Not having the real game and playing a VPin version, I thought the goalie was much harder to hit, but I'm at 574%.
When I worked on the game, back in the 90's, I never remember it being that high. However, that was over 15 years ago, so I'm just trying to verify my memory.
That audit option doesn't appear to be in my firmware, or manual. Shame, as I was keen to see what mine was too. I would have guessed around 3 hits for each goal (around 300%)
Quoted from diesel:Sorry to butt in people,
I'm back to tell you Coyote that i've checked the 10-Opto board on 'The Shadow' which showed no errors. I then checked my CPU board on another WCS 94 and rows 1,2,3 and 5 appeared. Okay found the problem. Replaced U16, U17, U18, U19 and U20 chips on the CPU board again the errors appeared. Now i'm thinking it could be the U23 chip.
That doesn't make any sense, though, since you mentioned that without the opto board plugged in, the switches act normally. In either case, yeah - then if the problem follows the MPU it's obviously on there. I don't have my schematics in front of me, so I can't verify U23 right now, sorry.
Quoted from Zzap:That audit option doesn't appear to be in my firmware, or manual. Shame, as I was keen to see what mine was too. I would have guessed around 3 hits for each goal (around 300%)
Oh, it's in the 'hidden' Bookeepings menu.
Go into the Bookeeping Menu, so that "B.1 Main Audits" is flashing
Quickly press all 4 service buttons at the same time. (Enter, Up, Down, Esc)
The screen will show an audit, though it could be on Bx.1 or Bx.2 (because of the multiple button press.)
You're in the hidden audits if you see ".1 EXEC LOCKUPS" or ".2 POWER UPS". I have a list somewhere explaining what all the stanrads ones mean, but the game-specific ones are near the end of the lloop (hit DN from .1 to roll around, like normal.) Goalie Hits is one of the items tracked.
Quoted from jphillip5:Any one have an idea where the heck this thing goes, I can't figure it out:
Not sure if you figured it out, but that piece goes on the right ramp, right behind the soccer ball.
Quoted from limelime20:Not sure if you figured it out, but that piece goes on the right ramp, right behind the soccer ball.
Thanks, I got it figured out. One more question... The enter button on my coin door is broken. Is there a way to manually trigger the enter switch until I can get it replaced?
Quoted from jphillip5:Thanks, I got it figured out. One more question... The enter button on my coin door is broken. Is there a way to manually trigger the enter switch until I can get it replaced?
Connect the wires for pushing the button. Disconnect for letting go of the button.
Quoted from Syco54645:Connect the wires for pushing the button. Disconnect for letting go of the button.
Duh. I should think sometimes before posting questions...
Quoted from jphillip5:Duh. I should think sometimes before posting questions...
Haha, no big deal. Happens to the best of us.
Hey, doublestack never got an official welcome to the club. So here it is: Welcome to the club!
You have purchased one of the Funnest machines money can buy. Hope you get it up and running soon. Many happy high scores! Enjoy
Quoted from Coyote:Oh, it's in the 'hidden' Bookeepings menu.
Go into the Bookeeping Menu, so that "B.1 Main Audits" is flashing
Quickly press all 4 service buttons at the same time. (Enter, Up, Down, Esc)
The screen will show an audit, though it could be on Bx.1 or Bx.2 (because of the multiple button press.)
You're in the hidden audits if you see ".1 EXEC LOCKUPS" or ".2 POWER UPS". I have a list somewhere explaining what all the stanrads ones mean, but the game-specific ones are near the end of the lloop (hit DN from .1 to roll around, like normal.) Goalie Hits is one of the items tracked.
Ha, you do learn something new everyday!
For the record, my 'Goalie Hits' is 161%
Quoted from Zzap:Ha, you do learn something new everyday!
For the record, my 'Goalie Hits' is 161%
Huh! That's lower than I would have thought. Thanks!
Quoted from Coyote:Oh, it's in the 'hidden' Bookeepings menu.
Go into the Bookeeping Menu, so that "B.1 Main Audits" is flashing
Quickly press all 4 service buttons at the same time. (Enter, Up, Down, Esc)
The screen will show an audit, though it could be on Bx.1 or Bx.2 (because of the multiple button press.)
You're in the hidden audits if you see ".1 EXEC LOCKUPS" or ".2 POWER UPS". I have a list somewhere explaining what all the stanrads ones mean, but the game-specific ones are near the end of the lloop (hit DN from .1 to roll around, like normal.) Goalie Hits is one of the items tracked.
Very interesting thanks for this! Since last reset after a full shop out i have 1501 games on mine and Goalie hits reads;
722%, 25,845
I am actually really good at timing a goal when its lit... so this seems like a high number lol
Id say these numbers have been around a lot longer than my games played audit, it seems that way with a few of the other hidden audits. Very cool!
Wow just got my new armature assembly in the mail. Finally got this wcs playing! This game is so addictive, I couldn't stop playing it tonight. Just a really great pinball game. Also impressed on how solid this game feels. I love the metal inlanes, really keeps the speed up. I assume the other spot for the ball to lock is for multiple players? I painted the coin door, head, and inside of cab yesterday. It's looking good.image-194.jpgimage-514.jpgimage-20.jpgimage.jpg
Quoted from leatherface:Very interesting thanks for this! Since last reset after a full shop out i have 1501 games on mine and Goalie hits reads;
722%, 25,845
I am actually really good at timing a goal when its lit... so this seems like a high number lol
Id say these numbers have been around a lot longer than my games played audit, it seems that way with a few of the other hidden audits. Very cool!
I'm actually not sure if those are reset when you do an Audit clear. I do NOT think so - and some (like Power Ons, and Lockup Codes) aren't EVER reset, unless you pull batteries.
All WPC games have these - though some games have no additional stats (like JY, for example, has no game-specific information).
Quoted from doublestack:Wow just got my new armature assembly in the mail. Finally got this wcs playing! This game is so addictive, I couldn't stop playing it tonight. Just a really great pinball game. Also impressed on how solid this game feels. I love the metal inlanes, really keeps the speed up. I assume the other spot for the ball to lock is for multiple players? I painted the coin door, head, and inside of can yesterday. It's looking good.
Correct - or if you have MB Easy Release turned on. (The latter option will let you start the first multiball from the ramps, which will catch the ball as the animation starts, then release both.)
Woot! I've been dying to get my owner WCS94 for a while now. Finally came across one last week an operator was neglecting! I thoughly looked the bad boy over, played it for 2 hours (time flies when you're having fun) and decided it needed to go to a good home. We agreed on a price and now I will be bringing it home after my buddy at Action pinball gets the circuit boards fixed!
Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:Finally came across one last week an operator was neglecting! I thoughly looked the bad boy over, played it for 2 hours (time flies when you're having fun) and decided it needed to go to a good home.
Like saving a lost dog.
Congrats!
Quoted from Coyote:That doesn't make any sense, though, since you mentioned that without the opto board plugged in, the switches act normally. In either case, yeah - then if the problem follows the MPU it's obviously on there. I don't have my schematics in front of me, so I can't verify U23 right now, sorry.
Update. U23 chip arrived today. Installed socket and chip and has eliminated rows 1,3 and 5 unfortunately row 2 is still grounded. I'm turning green again! ARGHH!
Ok so my table ghosts have really started to act crazy now. As stated before I was having issues with my tv hole not working and now I have lost all solenoids and lights. There are three solenoids that are working but they are on a totally different circuit than the rest according to the schematics. I am reading +50 at all the solenoids 76 to be specific. Most likely I will be calling in a pro to figure this out but I wanted to thank everyone here that tried to help me.
Quoted from diesel:Update. U23 chip arrived today. Installed socket and chip and has eliminated rows 1,3 and 5 unfortunately row 2 is still grounded. I'm turning green again! ARGHH!
Quoted from Coyote:With the playfield/cabinet connectors disconnected (all green/white connectors at bottom of MPU) does row 2 stay grounded?
No.
This is what i did.
First i disconnected the connectors from the MPU board and row 2 did not appear. After reattaching the connectors back onto the MPU board i then disconnected the connectors from the 7 Opto board and again row 2 did not appear (on DMD).
Also every time I switch on the machine the trough and goal popper start to fire.
7 Opto board or MPU?
Just letting you know i've replaced the LM399 chips on the 7 Opto board. Could the chips be faulty?
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