There is an odd piece of plastic in the area I think you're talking about, might be missing on yours. Take a photo... two pages back there's a picture of a plastic over the two pop bumpers, is that area?

I also have never gotten a ball stuck there.

Guess what I got in the mail today?
image.jpg

Nice! I haven't ordered mine yet, but *really* tempted to do so..

Someone had asked if the lock area ever held two balls.

Interestingly, with the change of a setting, you can lock (at least, momentarily) two balls in there -

Change your "A.2 04" setting ("Last Easy Release") to at least 1.

This is the last multiball that allows an 'easy release' - this allows for starting Final Draw by shooting a ramp. After locking the first ball, the ball will be served to plunger like normal. Shoot the second ball up any ramp, and the lock magnet will catch it as well, storing it in the lock area - at least until you shoot the (third) ball in the plunger lane.

Jelly of the month club!

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Not on any of the ones I have played. This includes mine, 2 at papa and 2 on route. It must be a software setting. After making all the skills final draw lights right away. I have gotten many 2 ball multiballs from the ball hitting slings then entering the final draw.

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

Ya, the scoop never lights on the ones I have played until you at least make the lock shot.

my settings are default as far as i know. real busy at home right now but will try to check my settings.

Hello all,
If anyone gets a CPR plastic set and doesn't need their old header/kick plastic anymore after replacing (and are willing to post), shoot me a PM and I will happily take it! Thanks

To dloe007: if you're gonna own one pin, you sure picked a winner. Game is both fun and challenging. What made you choose WCS? Any particular reason?

Let me know if you want any help with this. I'm pretty handy with Adobe Illustrator. I'm also planning on a cabinet decal restore for my Jackbot.

G'day mate (from Australia just FYI). Well didn't have much room in the house and wasn't up to spending big bucks on a pin (quite young) so I was looking at the cheaper pins (BSD, DW, FT etc...) and none of them really spoke out to me, meaning I couldn't really own any of them. I was at a meet at someone's place and they had a WCS and I played it (first time) and I loved it. So many things to do and shoot for, wizard mode wasn't impossible, the goal is awesome, ramps are long are satisfying, multiball was fun, good art and great sounds. So I asked the owner how much do these usually sell for? I was expecting the price of say a NGG, WH20 or a TOTAN because of the high game quality and the designer but in-fact it was reasonable and from there I had to own it. So the rest is history, I love the game and happy to have it as my only pin! But ever since I got it I have been trying to track down that damn plastic! Oh and also I would like the game more if they spelt my country correctly!

WCS.JPG

Of the 7 I have played, you have to hit a ramp to light final draw. Unless you get Multiball from striker on ball 3.

I asked for one reason and you unloaded! Hard to narrow it to only one reason I know. WCS has alot to offer. Great story in addition to all the details. Glad to have an Aussie owner on board. Hope you enjoy it for a long time to come mate and many happy high scores. Now get to L.A. and defeat Germany!

p.s. I'll have to look at mine later as I never realized your country was mis-spelled!?

ok, i took apart my WCS, cleaned and added LEDs, and I have a few questions. After putting back the plastics, I noticed I had a few issues. First off, where does this go?

Photo Dec 11, 8 40 40 AM.jpg

Also, now that it is all back together, the bottom return ramp is too close to the other ramp, and the ball is getting stuck between the ramps. I assume the part above is the cause perhaps. Thanks!

Photo Dec 11, 8 40 48 AM.jpg

Also, one last question. The flashers seem to not be working properly since I added the leds. Is there a fuse I should be looking for?

Stoked finally getting this pin back in my collection!

WCS really goes well with my IM and ST, which you have also. When I play WCS after I play IM, I really appreciate how "fun" it is! IM is a stress ball for me. Enjoy!

'Atta boy! Welcome back.

That post is all over the playfield, here's a pic I have from mine:

wcsnoramps.jpg

Hi all,

I'm having problems with my WCS 94. As you can see in the pictures, rows 1 to 5 and row 8 have a ground short. I've checked the CPU board and replaced the U20 (ULN280A) chip, checked the opto boards beneath the playfield and found no problems. Has anyone come across this problem before?

Cheers

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Anyone who got a CPR plastic set, I'd be interested in buying your extra header plastic. Let me know how much you want for it, if it's for sale. Thanks!

Does the row shorts vanish if the switch connectors are unplugged?

I unplugged the switch connectors from the CPU board and yes the row shorts vanish.

Okay, then the issue isn't on your MPU, so don't worry about changing anything on there. Check your playfield wiring.

Checked all the wiring plus the diodes above and beneath the playfield, all look OK.
Forgot to mention earlier, I replaced a diode on the 10 opto board(underneath the playfield) . Refer to picture. Do you think there could be further damage to the board?

WMS_10_Opto copy.jpg

I joined this club awhile back, and love the game! Mine is missing the post that the top of the plastic above the magnet lock screws into, and was wondering if anyone knew what part I should be looking for in this spot? There's no obvious place on mine for a post to be mounted, so a little confused.

Screen Shot 2014-12-29 at 11.15.58 AM.png

D13 is for the feed of 12v, so that current doesn't flow from the board into the rest of the +12v feed. Do you know what caused it to go? (If a LED or RECV got shorted to a controlled lamp or GI light or coil, then yeah, U1 and U2 could be bad on the 10-Opto board. (Though, it's odd in that Row 7 and 6 aren't shorted, even though they're also on U2.)

If you unplug J3 (the 12-pin, largest header on the 10-Opto board), do the Row shorts clear?

The coil on the 'ball eject assembly' was replaced but unsure if this caused damage to the diode.
I've unplugged J3 (12 pin) from the 10-Opto board, column 3 remains lit. Refer to photo.

P1019011.JPG

P1019028.JPG

Okay -
That last screen you show is *normal*, assuming you have NO balls in the trough! (Trough optos have their own driver board - they do not use the 10-opto driver board.

So yes, likely you will need to replace the U1, U2, and U3, all LM399's. (Or, get a new 10-Opto board.)

The balls have been removed.
OK, i'll replace all LM399's on the 10-Opto board, hopefully this solves the problem.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.

Good luck!

(1st photo)LM399's replaced, connectors plugged in and still rows 1 to 5 have a ground short.
(2nd photo) I unplugged all connectors from the 10 opto board and switch 24(always closed) and 36(trough stack) are displayed.
Should I just buy a hammer!

P1019031.JPG

P1019033.JPG

Nono, if nothing else, I'll buy the game from you.

Okay, this means that the issue is ON the 10-Opto board, but not related to the chips or that diode.

If you HAVE a different 10-opto board (from another game, example) and try that.

If you don't, check the other diodes on the board. Check traces - make sure no traces have shorted. Check the wiring on the plugs, as well.

Also, try this - what do you get on the screen if you leave the 10-Opto board plugged in, but *disconnect* the Trough Opto boards?

Edit: Odd thing to check, but check the +12V DC coming into the Opto board, as well.

got my apron back today and reinstalled

image.jpg

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Became an owner yesterday thanks to pmwolf

Wow, that's a really nice color! Looks darker than any green on the game - how's it match up?

It's fabulous.

matches good did the long wire form in the color I like it

Is WCS cab art direct-printed or decals? Ordering some cab protectors and need to know whether to get metal or PinGuard. Thanks!

Decals

Anyone selling a goalie sticker? Or have a good image to print? Thanks guys!

I'm pretty sure Marco Specialties has them.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-8

Hey there, has anyone had any luck connecting the Marcospecialties lower ramp to the original upper ramp on the right side? How did the sizing work? I had an extra lower ramp and gave it to a friend and he said the sizing is off, so it won't work. Let me know if anyone has tried this and how it worked out. Thanks in advance.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9108.2

I am about to do this. I just got my WCS about 3 weeks ago and it was very dirty. I'm just about to finish the reconstruction and one of the things I'm about to do is install that upper ramp on the right side. I'll let you know soon.

Good luck. Enjoy the pin!

Please add me to this club

I have a Striker question. As mentioned above I just got my game a few weeks ago and it was missing the striker billboard all together. The bracket and light were gone. I found a spare light cable from my NBA Fastbreak (from a replaced defender) and the plug underneath and the light works.

I got the striker bracket from Marco and the striker plastic but they don't align. I also see a striker decal but I didn't order it - now I wish I had.

I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.

Can someone tell me what exactly how the striker billboard is made. The manual has almost nothing on it.

THANKS!
bracket : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
plastic : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-17
decal : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-6