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(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,046 posts
  • 546 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by RonaldRayGun
  • Topic is favorited by 190 Pinsiders

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There are 6046 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 121.
#1451 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Wondering if anyone else experiences stuck balls around the spinner and left ramp area?
We have a WCS on location and lately it seems there have been a rash of balls getting stuck in the spinner area (above and to the side of the spinner support bracket). I am not sure if the game is missing some sort of clear plastic protector in this area or if this is just a common issue.
I think the ball is getting spun/launched off of the spinning soccer ball and ocassionally just gets an odd bounce.
Any other WCS owners have a similar experience. I can take a photo to show where it is getting stuck the next time I am in at the bar.

There is an odd piece of plastic in the area I think you're talking about, might be missing on yours. Take a photo... two pages back there's a picture of a plastic over the two pop bumpers, is that area?

#1452 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Wondering if anyone else experiences stuck balls around the spinner and left ramp area?
We have a WCS on location and lately it seems there have been a rash of balls getting stuck in the spinner area (above and to the side of the spinner support bracket). I am not sure if the game is missing some sort of clear plastic protector in this area or if this is just a common issue.
I think the ball is getting spun/launched off of the spinning soccer ball and ocassionally just gets an odd bounce.
Any other WCS owners have a similar experience. I can take a photo to show where it is getting stuck the next time I am in at the bar.

I also have never gotten a ball stuck there.

#1453 5 years ago

Guess what I got in the mail today?
image.jpg

#1454 5 years ago

Nice! I haven't ordered mine yet, but *really* tempted to do so..

#1455 5 years ago

Someone had asked if the lock area ever held two balls.

Interestingly, with the change of a setting, you can lock (at least, momentarily) two balls in there -

Change your "A.2 04" setting ("Last Easy Release") to at least 1.

This is the last multiball that allows an 'easy release' - this allows for starting Final Draw by shooting a ramp. After locking the first ball, the ball will be served to plunger like normal. Shoot the second ball up any ramp, and the lock magnet will catch it as well, storing it in the lock area - at least until you shoot the (third) ball in the plunger lane.

#1456 5 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Guess what I got in the mail today?

image.jpg 143 KB

Jelly of the month club!

image.jpg
#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I thought that you had to at LEAST shoot the ramp (for the game to 'think' you had a ball locked) before Final Draw was lit. i.e. When you complete all skills, the 'Final Draw' doesn't light right away..

Not on any of the ones I have played. This includes mine, 2 at papa and 2 on route. It must be a software setting. After making all the skills final draw lights right away. I have gotten many 2 ball multiballs from the ball hitting slings then entering the final draw.

#1458 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Not on any of the ones I have played. This includes mine, 2 at papa and 2 on route. It must be a software setting. After making all the skills final draw lights right away. I have gotten many 2 ball multiballs from the ball hitting slings then entering the final draw.

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

#1459 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

Ya, the scoop never lights on the ones I have played until you at least make the lock shot.

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

my settings are default as far as i know. real busy at home right now but will try to check my settings.

#1461 5 years ago

Hello all,
If anyone gets a CPR plastic set and doesn't need their old header/kick plastic anymore after replacing (and are willing to post), shoot me a PM and I will happily take it! Thanks

#1462 5 years ago

To dloe007: if you're gonna own one pin, you sure picked a winner. Game is both fun and challenging. What made you choose WCS? Any particular reason?

#1463 5 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Also just bought a scanner and plan on doing a full cab decal restore.

Let me know if you want any help with this. I'm pretty handy with Adobe Illustrator. I'm also planning on a cabinet decal restore for my Jackbot.

#1464 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

To dloe007: if you're gonna own one pin, you sure picked a winner. Game is both fun and challenging. What made you choose WCS? Any particular reason?

G'day mate (from Australia just FYI). Well didn't have much room in the house and wasn't up to spending big bucks on a pin (quite young) so I was looking at the cheaper pins (BSD, DW, FT etc...) and none of them really spoke out to me, meaning I couldn't really own any of them. I was at a meet at someone's place and they had a WCS and I played it (first time) and I loved it. So many things to do and shoot for, wizard mode wasn't impossible, the goal is awesome, ramps are long are satisfying, multiball was fun, good art and great sounds. So I asked the owner how much do these usually sell for? I was expecting the price of say a NGG, WH20 or a TOTAN because of the high game quality and the designer but in-fact it was reasonable and from there I had to own it. So the rest is history, I love the game and happy to have it as my only pin! But ever since I got it I have been trying to track down that damn plastic! Oh and also I would like the game more if they spelt my country correctly!

WCS.JPG

#1465 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Not on any of the ones I have played. This includes mine, 2 at papa and 2 on route. It must be a software setting. After making all the skills final draw lights right away. I have gotten many 2 ball multiballs from the ball hitting slings then entering the final draw.

Of the 7 I have played, you have to hit a ramp to light final draw. Unless you get Multiball from striker on ball 3.

#1466 5 years ago
Quoted from dloe007:

G'day mate (from Australia just FYI). Well didn't have much room in the house and wasn't up to spending big bucks on a pin (quite young) so I was looking at the cheaper pins (BSD, DW, FT etc...) and none of them really spoke out to me, meaning I couldn't really own any of them. I was at a meet at someone's place and they had a WCS and I played it (first time) and I loved it. So many things to do and shoot for, wizard mode wasn't impossible, the goal is awesome, ramps are long are satisfying, multiball was fun, good art and great sounds. So I asked the owner how much do these usually sell for? I was expecting the price of say a NGG, WH20 or a TOTAN because of the high game quality and the designer but in-fact it was reasonable and from there I had to own it. So the rest is history, I love the game and happy to have it as my only pin! But ever since I got it I have been trying to track down that damn plastic! Oh and also I would like the game more if they spelt my country correctly!

WCS.JPG 248 KB

I asked for one reason and you unloaded! Hard to narrow it to only one reason I know. WCS has alot to offer. Great story in addition to all the details. Glad to have an Aussie owner on board. Hope you enjoy it for a long time to come mate and many happy high scores. Now get to L.A. and defeat Germany!

p.s. I'll have to look at mine later as I never realized your country was mis-spelled!?

#1467 5 years ago

ok, i took apart my WCS, cleaned and added LEDs, and I have a few questions. After putting back the plastics, I noticed I had a few issues. First off, where does this go?

Photo Dec 11, 8 40 40 AM.jpg

Also, now that it is all back together, the bottom return ramp is too close to the other ramp, and the ball is getting stuck between the ramps. I assume the part above is the cause perhaps. Thanks!

Photo Dec 11, 8 40 48 AM.jpg

#1468 5 years ago

Also, one last question. The flashers seem to not be working properly since I added the leds. Is there a fuse I should be looking for?

#1469 5 years ago

Stoked finally getting this pin back in my collection!

#1470 5 years ago
Quoted from Kcbbq13:

Stoked finally getting this pin back in my collection!

WCS really goes well with my IM and ST, which you have also. When I play WCS after I play IM, I really appreciate how "fun" it is! IM is a stress ball for me. Enjoy!

#1471 5 years ago
Quoted from Kcbbq13:

Stoked finally getting this pin back in my collection!

'Atta boy! Welcome back.

#1472 5 years ago
Quoted from forensicd:

ok, i took apart my WCS, cleaned and added LEDs, and I have a few questions. After putting back the plastics, I noticed I had a few issues. First off, where does this go?

That post is all over the playfield, here's a pic I have from mine:

wcsnoramps.jpg
2 weeks later
#1473 5 years ago

Hi all,

I'm having problems with my WCS 94. As you can see in the pictures, rows 1 to 5 and row 8 have a ground short. I've checked the CPU board and replaced the U20 (ULN280A) chip, checked the opto boards beneath the playfield and found no problems. Has anyone come across this problem before?

Cheers

20141228_180733_3-866.jpg 20141228_180833.jpg
#1474 5 years ago

Anyone who got a CPR plastic set, I'd be interested in buying your extra header plastic. Let me know how much you want for it, if it's for sale. Thanks!

#1475 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Hi all,
I'm having problems with my WCS 94. As you can see in the pictures, rows 1 to 5 and row 8 have a ground short. I've checked the CPU board and replaced the U20 (ULN280A) chip, checked the opto boards beneath the playfield and found no problems. Has anyone come across this problem before?
Cheers

20141228_180733_3-866.jpg 46 KB

20141228_180833.jpg 49 KB

Does the row shorts vanish if the switch connectors are unplugged?

-1
#1476 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Does the row shorts vanish if the switch connectors are unplugged?

I unplugged the switch connectors from the CPU board and yes the row shorts vanish.

#1477 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

I unplugged the switch connectors from the CPU board and yes the row shorts vanish.

Okay, then the issue isn't on your MPU, so don't worry about changing anything on there. Check your playfield wiring.

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, then the issue isn't on your MPU, so don't worry about changing anything on there. Check your playfield wiring.

Checked all the wiring plus the diodes above and beneath the playfield, all look OK.
Forgot to mention earlier, I replaced a diode on the 10 opto board(underneath the playfield) . Refer to picture. Do you think there could be further damage to the board?

WMS_10_Opto copy.jpg
#1479 5 years ago

I joined this club awhile back, and love the game! Mine is missing the post that the top of the plastic above the magnet lock screws into, and was wondering if anyone knew what part I should be looking for in this spot? There's no obvious place on mine for a post to be mounted, so a little confused.

Screen Shot 2014-12-29 at 11.15.58 AM.png
#1480 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Checked all the wiring plus the diodes above and beneath the playfield, all look OK.
Forgot to mention earlier, I replaced a diode on the 10 opto board(underneath the playfield) . Refer to picture. Do you think there could be further damage to the board?
WMS_10_Opto copy.jpg 117 KB

D13 is for the feed of 12v, so that current doesn't flow from the board into the rest of the +12v feed. Do you know what caused it to go? (If a LED or RECV got shorted to a controlled lamp or GI light or coil, then yeah, U1 and U2 could be bad on the 10-Opto board. (Though, it's odd in that Row 7 and 6 aren't shorted, even though they're also on U2.)

If you unplug J3 (the 12-pin, largest header on the 10-Opto board), do the Row shorts clear?

#1481 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

D13 is for the feed of 12v, so that current doesn't flow from the board into the rest of the +12v feed. Do you know what caused it to go? (If a LED or RECV got shorted to a controlled lamp or GI light or coil, then yeah, U1 and U2 could be bad on the 10-Opto board. (Though, it's odd in that Row 7 and 6 aren't shorted, even though they're also on U2.)
If you unplug J3 (the 12-pin, largest header on the 10-Opto board), do the Row shorts clear?

The coil on the 'ball eject assembly' was replaced but unsure if this caused damage to the diode.
I've unplugged J3 (12 pin) from the 10-Opto board, column 3 remains lit. Refer to photo.

P1019011.JPG P1019028.JPG
#1482 5 years ago

Okay -
That last screen you show is *normal*, assuming you have NO balls in the trough! (Trough optos have their own driver board - they do not use the 10-opto driver board.

So yes, likely you will need to replace the U1, U2, and U3, all LM399's. (Or, get a new 10-Opto board.)

#1483 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay -
That last screen you show is *normal*, assuming you have NO balls in the trough! (Trough optos have their own driver board - they do not use the 10-opto driver board.
So yes, likely you will need to replace the U1, U2, and U3, all LM399's. (Or, get a new 10-Opto board.)

The balls have been removed.
OK, i'll replace all LM399's on the 10-Opto board, hopefully this solves the problem.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.

#1484 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

The balls have been removed.
OK, i'll replace all LM399's on the 10-Opto board, hopefully this solves the problem.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.

Good luck!

#1485 5 years ago

(1st photo)LM399's replaced, connectors plugged in and still rows 1 to 5 have a ground short.
(2nd photo) I unplugged all connectors from the 10 opto board and switch 24(always closed) and 36(trough stack) are displayed.
Should I just buy a hammer!

P1019031.JPG P1019033.JPG
#1486 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

(1st photo)LM399's replaced, connectors plugged in and still rows 1 to 5 have a ground short.
(2nd photo) I unplugged all connectors from the 10 opto board and switch 24(always closed) and 36(trough stack) are displayed.
Should I just buy a hammer!

Nono, if nothing else, I'll buy the game from you.

Okay, this means that the issue is ON the 10-Opto board, but not related to the chips or that diode.

If you HAVE a different 10-opto board (from another game, example) and try that.

If you don't, check the other diodes on the board. Check traces - make sure no traces have shorted. Check the wiring on the plugs, as well.

Also, try this - what do you get on the screen if you leave the 10-Opto board plugged in, but *disconnect* the Trough Opto boards?

Edit: Odd thing to check, but check the +12V DC coming into the Opto board, as well.

#1487 5 years ago

got my apron back today and reinstalled

image.jpg image-152.jpg
#1488 5 years ago

Became an owner yesterday thanks to pmwolf

#1489 5 years ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

got my apron back today and reinstalled

image.jpg 187 KB

image-152.jpg 245 KB

Wow, that's a really nice color! Looks darker than any green on the game - how's it match up?

#1490 5 years ago

It's fabulous.

#1491 5 years ago

matches good did the long wire form in the color I like it

#1492 5 years ago

Is WCS cab art direct-printed or decals? Ordering some cab protectors and need to know whether to get metal or PinGuard. Thanks!

#1494 5 years ago

Anyone selling a goalie sticker? Or have a good image to print? Thanks guys!

#1495 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Anyone selling a goalie sticker? Or have a good image to print? Thanks guys!

I'm pretty sure Marco Specialties has them.

#1497 5 years ago

Hey there, has anyone had any luck connecting the Marcospecialties lower ramp to the original upper ramp on the right side? How did the sizing work? I had an extra lower ramp and gave it to a friend and he said the sizing is off, so it won't work. Let me know if anyone has tried this and how it worked out. Thanks in advance.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9108.2

#1498 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Hey there, has anyone had any luck connecting the Marcospecialties lower ramp to the original upper ramp on the right side? How did the sizing work? I had an extra lower ramp and gave it to a friend and he said the sizing is off, so it won't work. Let me know if anyone has tried this and how it worked out. Thanks in advance.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9108.2

I am about to do this. I just got my WCS about 3 weeks ago and it was very dirty. I'm just about to finish the reconstruction and one of the things I'm about to do is install that upper ramp on the right side. I'll let you know soon.

#1499 5 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

I am about to do this. I just got my WCS about 3 weeks ago and it was very dirty. I'm just about to finish the reconstruction and one of the things I'm about to do is install that upper ramp on the right side. I'll let you know soon.

Good luck. Enjoy the pin!

#1500 5 years ago

Please add me to this club

I have a Striker question. As mentioned above I just got my game a few weeks ago and it was missing the striker billboard all together. The bracket and light were gone. I found a spare light cable from my NBA Fastbreak (from a replaced defender) and the plug underneath and the light works.

I got the striker bracket from Marco and the striker plastic but they don't align. I also see a striker decal but I didn't order it - now I wish I had.

I'm thinking the striker plastic is useless and the decal just goes right on the metal bracket but I just don't really know.

Can someone tell me what exactly how the striker billboard is made. The manual has almost nothing on it.

THANKS!
bracket : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
plastic : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-17
decal : http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-6

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