(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

11 years ago


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  • 8,546 posts
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  • Latest reply 38 hours ago by AlexRogan84
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There are 8,546 posts in this topic. You are on page 171 of 171.
#8501 70 days ago
Quoted from weasley:

Hi all - my WCS just stopped firing the balls into the shooter lane. I’ve been playing around trying to figure out what’s going on, but I barely know where to start. Any suggestions?

Start by going into the menu and doing a coil test. Can you fire that coil through test?

#8502 69 days ago
Quoted from Bernardspop:

Hi All!
I need technical help with my game
The following message is showing up: Opto Trough Bad Check Connectors, Wires, and 12V Supply
Sometimes the warning message disappears, and I can play the game. However, during gameplay, the balls start piling up in the shooter lane. I suspect the opto boards are bad, so I purchased a new set to replace them. I replaced one side with a new board, and when I turned on the game, the warning disappeared, but the coil kept firing continuously. Then, I replaced the second board with a new one, and now the same message appears and it does not go away. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Any help will be appreciated!

Make sure you check the connectors on the MPU as well. Have you had any battery corrosion? Those connectors are underneath the battery box and can be damaged by leaks I've had a similar error on my demolition man that was resolved by cleaning the connectors on the MPU which had slight corrosion from a previous owners battery leak. Worth looking at at least.

1 week later
#8503 62 days ago

Just joined the club with my 20th game.
Picked it up close for a good price-what a nice underrated game it is

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#8504 62 days ago

I assume that metal bracket is not standard. Also wondering if the attachment to the wire ramp is original.
Could an owner please post some pics how that areas look like on a pristine game?

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#8505 62 days ago
Quoted from harig:

I assume that metal bracket is not standard. Also wondering if the attachment to the wire ramp is original.
Could an owner please post some pics how that areas look like on a pristine game?[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club. A great game indeed. The part in question is prone to breaking. My game is apart for playfield repairs but here is the original intact part from my game. Both parts are available but you may need to do the riveting yourself.

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#8506 62 days ago

Thx a lot for your fast reply

#8507 62 days ago
Quoted from harig:

Just joined the club with my 20th game.
Picked it up close for a good price-what a nice underrated game it is [quoted image]

Welcome! Picked one of these up recently and it has quickly become a family favorite.

#8508 62 days ago

Also just joined the club. My first Bally midway. Is there an option to save the settings permanently such as free play and volume over ride? Everytime I power off, I have to go back into settings and do it again when I power back on.
Thanks

#8509 62 days ago
Quoted from ChrisX1130:

Also just joined the club. My first Bally midway. Is there an option to save the settings permanently such as free play and volume over ride? Everytime I power off, I have to go back into settings and do it again when I power back on.
Thanks

I assume you checked/replaced the batteries?

#8510 62 days ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

I assume you checked/replaced the batteries?

Actually I did not.
Just picked up, so didn’t even cross my mind.
Hopefully that’s all I need.
Thanks

#8511 61 days ago
Quoted from ChrisX1130:

Actually I did not.
Just picked up, so didn’t even cross my mind.
Hopefully that’s all I need.
Thanks

Yes check the batteries. Also look for any signs of battery leakage. Replace the batteries with new lithium ones. Battery leaking is the most common cause of big failures on WPC boards, specially for games that were in storage for a long time.

#8512 61 days ago
Quoted from Rahxephon1:

Yes check the batteries. Also look for any signs of battery leakage. Replace the batteries with new lithium ones. Battery leaking is the most common cause of big failures on WPC boards, specially for games that were in storage for a long time.

Agreed. A nice thing about the WPC-S boardset (which WCS is) is that the batteries are on a daughter board that is slightly elevated above the main board. It's not a perfect solution, but it is better than what came before it...

That daughterboard can be easily relocated to the side of the backbox with just a few screws and standoffs for even more protection.

#8513 61 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

Agreed. A nice thing about the WPC-S boardset (which WCS is) is that the batteries are on a daughter board that is slightly elevated above the main board. It's not a perfect solution, but it is better than what came before it...
That daughterboard can be easily relocated to the side of the backbox with just a few screws and standoffs for even more protection.

And then they reverted to on the main mpu board battery mounting for WPC-95. I've replaced more WPC-95 MPU's than any other WPC MPU.

#8514 57 days ago

Well I replaced the batteries, (the batteries that were there looked pretty new allready) now sometimes it goes back to factory settings and sometimes it doesn’t.
This is the current set up. Is there a more efficient way?

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#8515 57 days ago
Quoted from ChrisX1130:

Well I replaced the batteries, (the batteries that were there looked pretty new allready) now sometimes it goes back to factory settings and sometimes it doesn’t.

It is tough to tell from your picture, but it looks like your battery holder has corrosion/acid damage.

If you take the batteries out and send another pic we may be able to help more.

That doesn't look too bad, and can probably be cleaned (baking soda/lemon juice/fiberglass brush/etc), or just go with a nice replacement:
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1575-bdash-s-bits/10236-wpc-s-battery-board

holder (resized).pngholder (resized).png

#8516 57 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

It is tough to tell from your picture, but it looks like your battery holder has corrosion/acid damage.
If you take the batteries out and send another pic we may be able to help more.
That doesn't look too bad, and can probably be cleaned (baking soda/lemon juice/fiberglass brush/etc), or just go with a nice replacement:
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1575-bdash-s-bits/10236-wpc-s-battery-board
[quoted image]

Yes, deal with the battery holder first.

I TOTALLY just went through this on my Indy 500 this past week. EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS. I worked through the Pinwiki for WPC resets, first replacing the thermistor in the power box but that didn't fix it, then pulled the power driver board and went through all of the connectors looking for cracked solder joints (and repinned the GI along the way). The 5V test point measured 4.9, so prolly good, then pulled the CPU board to check connections. That's when I discovered the EXACT same corrosion on the battery terminals, and interestingly, I had the EXACT same Amazon batteries! I pulled the battery holder from the daughter board and attempted to take it apart to clean and neutralize the alkaline damage but decided to replace it with a new battery holder stuck to the board, passed the wires through the old mounting holes, and soldered them onto the backside of the connector pins. I put it back in and so far so good.

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#8517 56 days ago

Anyone have an idea, other than using Pinstadiums, on brightening up the back end of the game?

I know some of you have put led strips where the arena “lights” are at the back, but where do you put them?

#8518 56 days ago

So tonight, we had a few people over to play some pinball and my wife, who almost never plays, was playing our World Cup Soccer and I hear her say "come here quick - I killed the goalie" She was right, he was laying on the play field, face down - she had, in fact, killed him!

I've ordered a replacement but will likely keep the old guy as a reminder of the time my wife actually played a game, and it resulted in death...

#8519 56 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

It is tough to tell from your picture, but it looks like your battery holder has corrosion/acid damage.
If you take the batteries out and send another pic we may be able to help more.
That doesn't look too bad, and can probably be cleaned (baking soda/lemon juice/fiberglass brush/etc), or just go with a nice replacement:
https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1575-bdash-s-bits/10236-wpc-s-battery-board
[quoted image]

Thanks for all the replies and tips guys. I took the batteries out and zoomed in with some light, and yeah it does probably need to be replaced.
The link for the replacement is plug and play correct? Why would it need to be soldered? Thanks again for all the help.

Chris

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#8520 56 days ago
Quoted from ChrisX1130:

Thanks for all the replies and tips guys. I took the batteries out and zoomed in with some light, and yeah it does probably need to be replaced.
The link for the replacement is plug and play correct? Why would it need to be soldered? Thanks again for all the help.
Chris[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, the linked battery holder is totally plug and play using 2 of the 4 standoffs that the current board/holder uses!

#8521 51 days ago

Wanted to give Sascha's most excellent 64 color wizardry a bump as I have a few Pin2DMD's left from my most recent build. If anyone is interested please PM me, I can cover setup, activation, and color files along with power harness. Summer Special: Completely plug and play for $250 shipped.

wcs1 (resized).jpgwcs1 (resized).jpg

Please PM me with any interest and as always, thanks for looking!

Pete

#8522 46 days ago

Wanted to give Sascha's most excellent 64 color wizardry a bump as I have a few Pin2DMD's left from my most recent build. If anyone is interested please PM me, I include all setup, activation, and color files along with power harness. Summer Special: Completely plug and play for $250 shipped.

Personal assistance offered for the installation, again please PM for details and thanks for looking!

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#8523 46 days ago

I have 3 of Pete’s displays and highly recommend him. Top shelf vendor.

#8524 42 days ago

Anyone know the name or size of the screw that goes into the ball deflector part 01-12613? See photo. It’s a common machine screw but I’ve never been able to find the name of size of it.

Ideally, I’m looking for same screw but just a tad longer to make sure the deflector doesn’t always pop out every 100 games or so.

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#8525 36 days ago

Is there an "E" ring missing on the shaft of my goalie mechanism or something else not correctly assembled/missing ?

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#8526 36 days ago
Quoted from harig:

Is there an "E" ring missing on the shaft of my goalie mechanism or something else not correctly assembled/missing ?[quoted image][quoted image]

No, sir.

For comparison, here’s a photo of my assembly:

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#8527 35 days ago
Quoted from Fatsquatch:

No, sir.
For comparison, here’s a photo of my assembly:[quoted image]

Interesting
Thanks a lot for the pic

#8528 35 days ago
Quoted from harig:

Is there an "E" ring missing on the shaft of my goalie mechanism or something else not correctly assembled/missing ?[quoted image][quoted image]

The diagram in the manual doesn't show one there. There is an e-clip on the pivot point below.

#8529 34 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

The diagram in the manual doesn't show one there. There is an e-clip on the pivot point below.

Yes I checked the manual but was wondering as there is a slot in the shaft where an E-clip would perfectly fit

Thanks for the feedback

#8530 31 days ago

I have 3 of Pete’s displays and highly recommend him. Top shelf vendor.</blockquot

Arsenal129 - Many thanks for the kind words, my friend!

Bumping this: $235 shipped (2 left as of today 6-20-24)

1 week later
#8531 20 days ago

Hi folks. My DMD started "artifacting" and leaving LEDs lit. The first time it happened; I unplugged the DMD, used some compressed air, put it back together and everything was fine.

it was okay for about 6 weeks and then it started to do it again. I tried the same steps but of course it didn't work. I swapped out a known good DMD and cable from another game and it's doing the same thing.

I found that there is a video test and when I run it it gets so pixelated. I can't tell what's happening at the end. it looks like it's trying to say "ram page error XYZ" but I can't tell what the page error is.

I can say that in normal usage it's mostly okay and you can play the game and everything works fine, But I'm also scared to play it because I don't know what the heck's going on so it's down.

Does anyone have any clues or hints or posts or ideas on where I should go next?

#8532 19 days ago

If it saya RAM test error it looks like the RAM chip on the DMD driver board is fishy

#8533 16 days ago

Got a weird issue with the lower skill shot opto. In test mode it appears fine, I can move a q-tip back and forth over the opto and see it turn open/closed.

But when I play a game, the lower opto falsely triggers so every time it's time to plunge the ball the game thinks I hit the bottom hole before I even touch the plunger, it happens immediately.

Any ideas what to check?

#8534 15 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

Got a weird issue with the lower skill shot opto. In test mode it appears fine, I can move a q-tip back and forth over the opto and see it turn open/closed.
But when I play a game, the lower opto falsely triggers so every time it's time to plunge the ball the game thinks I hit the bottom hole before I even touch the plunger, it happens immediately.
Any ideas what to check?

Those optos are normally closed, i.e. the beam goes across and completes the circuit. When a ball crosses the beam, it breaks the circuit and the game registers it. If one side or the other of that opto sensor pair has a loose wire or poor solder connection, it could be losing connection when the ball kickout happens. I would inspect the little opto boards and where the wires are soldered to them and see if something looks loose. Reflow the solder on them to be sure. Could also be somewhere else on those pairs of wires too. But the reason it tests fine with your Q-Tip and not during gameplay could be that the ball kicking out or that coil firing shakes the game enough to break the circuit momentarily. You could test this theory manually but rattling a ball around in the shooter lane and see if that vibration registers your lower skill shot switch or not.

#8535 13 days ago

Thanks, I will check the boards. The opto is back to working correctly for the moment so it's most likely something that's making intermittent contact I think.

1 week later
#8536 2 days ago

I have been playing a lot of modern Stern machines lately, specifically Jaws Premium, Foo Fighters, Iron Maiden and a few others. I just turned on my WCS after playing these games on location for weeks and it is incredible the difference how solid this old WMS/Bally game feels in comparison. Like cardboard compared to solid oak. Really just night and day. Also, it is amazing how game play stands up, WCS is SO much easier to follow and still a ton of fun.

#8537 2 days ago
Quoted from dugmar:

I have been playing a lot of modern Stern machines lately, specifically Jaws Premium, Foo Fighters, Iron Maiden and a few others. I just turned on my WCS after playing these games on location for weeks and it is incredible the difference how solid this old WMS/Bally game feels in comparison. Like cardboard compared to solid oak. Really just night and day. Also, it is amazing how game play stands up, WCS is SO much easier to follow and still a ton of fun.

Couldn't agree with you more. People love their modern Sterns and I have three but I'll still get flamed for saying Stern games are like toys compared to WPC games build wise. I don't mind the depth of newer games but I prefer the simpler rulesets.

#8538 2 days ago

Completely agree. WPC games are built like tanks. My Turtles Pro sits next to them and it's been reliable, but man, it feels flimsy compared to the Bally Williams games.

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#8539 2 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Completely agree. WPC games are built like tanks. My Turtles Pro sits next to them and it's been reliable, but man, it feels flimsy compared to the Bally Williams games.[quoted image]

Since we're sharing pics...

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#8540 2 days ago

I’ll get in on the pics too, wish there was a NHL pinball to add to these
WCS is never leaving, family is Italian and love it too much and I just put up my GC as I love it too

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#8541 44 hours ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’ll get in on the pics too, wish there was a NHL pinball to add to these

I think Bobby Orr’s Power Play would qualify. And how about a Big Hurt or one of the many pitch & bat games to represent MLB?

#8542 43 hours ago
Quoted from MR-808:

I think Bobby Orr’s Power Play would qualify. And how about a Big Hurt or one of the many pitch & bat games to represent MLB?

I’ve seriously considered big hurt. Bobby Orr is a bit old for my tastes, I have got a Chexx hockey to fill the void in the meantime

#8543 40 hours ago

I'd love to get a Williams Slugfest to go with my WCS and NBAFB.

WCS also has one of the best looking colorizations to the DMD. That's a fantastic upgrade to our game.

#8544 38 hours ago

All my machines are sports themed haha. Mine are WCS, NGG, FT and NBAFB. Have also considered a Slug Fest.

WCS has to be the best sports pin ever done.

#8545 38 hours ago

I’d think an Indy 500 would be a great sports add.

#8546 38 hours ago
Quoted from bajm:

I’d think an Indy 500 would be a great sports add.

Sports... and games?

World Poker Tour?
Pool Sharks?

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