(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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  • 8,462 posts
  • 737 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 30 minutes ago by JediPimp
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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There are 8,462 posts in this topic. You are on page 168 of 170.
#8351 3 months ago
Quoted from FlippaHerrrnt:

I've had all of the gameolay settings set to default, like free Striker, TV Scoop lit, kickback and magnagoalie lit too. Seems like it's kind of cheating... i turned off the tv scoop and striker hideout but left corner kick and magna lit. What do you all do? Is there a "competition standard" i should strive for, or is it really just whatever?

For me, it seems like any game I own becomes too easy over time. Chalk that up to getting it all working correctly and dialed in, knowing all the rules and then putting a lot of hours on it. Sure, I consider myself a fairly good player, but any game you play enough that's set-up well is going to feel too easy eventually.

I have been putting my games on EXTRA HARD in the preset settings. It's part of the Utility menu. It will change most of those settings so that timers are shorter and things you have to earn have no memory from ball to ball, so you have to start over after you drain.

Most games have outlane posts that you can move between three positions, easy, medium and hard. It will basically change the size of the outlane gap for the ball to drain. Those aren't that applicable on WCS, IIRC. You can also adjust the plumb bob tilt thing so it tilts quicker with less movement.

What I don't think is right is where people remove rubber rings on posts to make the game play harder. That's not how I feel the designers meant for things to be changed. It's just mean when I see it like that, lol.

There are tournament modes on the games though and usually that makes sure any random awards are not really random anymore and they get awarded in the same order so it is fair to all players. You can also turn off extra balls in the game menu and that is usually done for tournaments.

#8352 3 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

The next question is what the hold down bar looked like.

Like this.......

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#8353 3 months ago

I can no longer hold my right flipper up. I noticed when I engage the right flipper a small spark emits from the right terminal. Do you guys think I need a new coil or should I just try and resolder the terminal? Very very basic electronic knowledge . Only experience is soldering mod chips into game consoles when I was a teenager.

#8354 3 months ago

A coil winding wire broke. You can try to fix it, or get a new coil.

#8355 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

A coil winding wire broke. You can try to fix it, or get a new coil.

Sounds good thanks. I’ll purchase a new coil. Have the flipper rebuild kit too. Guess it’s time to get my feet wet.

#8356 3 months ago
Quoted from stompeN:

Sounds good thanks. I’ll purchase a new coil. Have the flipper rebuild kit too. Guess it’s time to get my feet wet.

I find it significantly easier to flipper rebuild on bench rather than in machine. Makes for a much tidier/better job in my experience. You just have to connector the incoming wires, adds about 5 minutes 50 cents to the job.

#8357 3 months ago

Anyone know what these stickers go to? I looked over my game and didn't see where they were. Perhaps just promo type stickers?

IMG_9842 (resized).JPGIMG_9842 (resized).JPG

#8358 3 months ago

I think the 2nd one you put on someone's back when you hug them.

#8359 89 days ago

I have these used plastics for sale.

$40 bucks for all of it
$15 to ship

IMG_5910 (resized).jpegIMG_5910 (resized).jpegIMG_5911 (resized).jpegIMG_5911 (resized).jpeg
#8360 89 days ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Anyone know what these stickers go to? I looked over my game and didn't see where they were. Perhaps just promo type stickers?
[quoted image]

They are promo stickers.

#8361 87 days ago

Hello everyone,

Many people have probably noticed it, but the motor/gear of the balloon is really annoying after a while!

I seemed to read, I don't really know where, that there is a version of the engine that is much less noisy!

In the meantime, I've already opened my engine to fill it with grease and it's still the same!
Other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

#8362 87 days ago
Quoted from gizmo33:

Hello everyone,
Many people have probably noticed it, but the motor/gear of the balloon is really annoying after a while!
I seemed to read, I don't really know where, that there is a version of the engine that is much less noisy!
In the meantime, I've already opened my engine to fill it with grease and it's still the same!
Other ideas?
Thanks in advance.

I know many have tried to quiet it with no success.

#8363 87 days ago

Hello! The solenoid that ejects the ball from the goalie trough in my WCS94 has stopped working. I don’t see any loose or broken wires. When I do the solenoid test everything else works in the machine fine except the goalie trough one. Any advice for what the next steps would be to fix it or further troubleshoot? Thanks!

#8364 87 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

Hello! The solenoid that ejects the ball from the goalie trough in my WCS94 has stopped working. I don’t see any loose or broken wires. When I do the solenoid test everything else works in the machine fine except the goalie trough one. Any advice for what the next steps would be to fix it or further troubleshoot? Thanks!

Are you getting power to that coil?

#8365 86 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

Hello! The solenoid that ejects the ball from the goalie trough in my WCS94 has stopped working. I don’t see any loose or broken wires. When I do the solenoid test everything else works in the machine fine except the goalie trough one. Any advice for what the next steps would be to fix it or further troubleshoot? Thanks!

have you checked the switches in the trough? Does the trough know the ball is in there?

#8366 84 days ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

have you checked the switches in the trough? Does the trough know the ball is in there?

Yes, the trough switches seem to be working right. both from the switch test in the utilities menu and from rolling a ball into it.

#8367 84 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

A coil winding wire broke. You can try to fix it, or get a new coil.

Thanks! Replaced the whole coil and rebuilt the flipper. Hitting better then it ever has.

#8368 84 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I have these used plastics for sale.
$40 bucks for all of it
$15 to ship
[quoted image][quoted image]

make me an offer for these plastics...

#8369 83 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Are you getting power to that coil?

I checked the resistance across the coil and it doesn't seem to register anything. Is that the same as checking to see if there is power? Or is that a sign its time to replace the coil?

#8370 83 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

I checked the resistance across the coil and it doesn't seem to register anything. Is that the same as checking to see if there is power? Or is that a sign its time to replace the coil?

Measure voltage between the power wire at the coil, and ground. (Ground being the ground brain strap in the cabinet; easiest to get to.) You should read ~70v or abouts.

#8371 83 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Measure voltage between the power wire at the coil, and ground. (Ground being the ground brain strap in the cabinet; easiest to get to.) You should read ~70v or abouts.

Thanks for the advice! I just measured it and its right around 71V.

#8372 83 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

Thanks for the advice! I just measured it and its right around 71V.

Next step then would be to see if the driver wire is shorting to ground.
In Coil Test, select the coil, and then put your multimeter in OHMS mode - one lead on the driver wire, the other on ground. Every few seconds, your meter should flash to 0-ohms. (Depending on latency of the meter, you may just see it start to drop before it rises back up.) If you see this, then it means the driver wire is getting shorted to ground, which causes to coil to fire. In this case, bad coil. If you do NOT see this, then either driver wire is broken somewhere, or bad transistor.

#8373 83 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Next step then would be to see if the driver wire is shorting to ground.
In Coil Test, select the coil, and then put your multimeter in OHMS mode - one lead on the driver wire, the other on ground. Every few seconds, your meter should flash to 0-ohms. (Depending on latency of the meter, you may just see it start to drop before it rises back up.) If you see this, then it means the driver wire is getting shorted to ground, which causes to coil to fire. In this case, bad coil. If you do NOT see this, then either driver wire is broken somewhere, or bad transistor.

I must be doing something wrong with this test...my multimeter just sits at 1 the entire time. I tried with a coil that I know works (and could hear it activating during the coil test on repeat) and got the same thing. Here is how I had the multimeter configured.

IMG_1945 (resized).jpgIMG_1945 (resized).jpg
#8374 83 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

I must be doing something wrong with this test...my multimeter just sits at 1 the entire time. I tried with a coil that I know works (and could hear it activating during the coil test on repeat) and got the same thing. Here is how I had the multimeter configured.
[quoted image]

You could always just swap in a known working coil. Might be quicker.

#8375 83 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

Here is how I had the multimeter configured.

Get off the two mega ohm range
Put it in the lowest which looks like 2000 on yours

#8376 83 days ago

Try lower ohm setting. It's possible your DMM has too slow of a reaction too? Not sure there. If you have a meter with continuity beep, I would use that, because the beep in a lot of models is a lot quicker to hear than the screen.

#8377 82 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Try lower ohm setting. It's possible your DMM has too slow of a reaction too? Not sure there. If you have a meter with continuity beep, I would use that, because the beep in a lot of models is a lot quicker to hear than the screen.

D'oh! I turned to the lower setting and get 4 Ohms across the coil. When its firing during the coil test I don't see any variation in the readings. I tried it on a working coil (TV award) and it fluctuates as the coil fires.

#8378 82 days ago

Ah, good to hear! Transistor bad, or a break in the drive wire.

Time to test the transistor then - someone else will have to chime in here because I don't remember what the transistors for these coils are, and won't want to say the wrong thing and have you fry your board.

#8379 80 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:Ah, good to hear! Transistor bad, or a break in the drive wire.
Time to test the transistor then - someone else will have to chime in here because I don't remember what the transistors for these coils are, and won't want to say the wrong thing and have you fry your board.

Of the two wires coming off the coil, is there an obvious way to tell which is the drive wire?

#8380 80 days ago
Quoted from YoJoeNCSU:

Of the two wires coming off the coil, is there an obvious way to tell which is the drive wire?

Usually the drive wire is a smaller AWG (size). The power wire is usually thicker, and could have even two wires going to it, depending.

#8381 78 days ago

Is there a list of how many LEDs are in the GI on WCS?

I've been searching the thread and had no luck. I'm trying to get a rough idea of cost if I led the game. I can see how many insert leds there are via the manual but not GI.

#8382 78 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Is there a list of how many LEDs are in the GI on WCS?
I've been searching the thread and had no luck. I'm trying to get a rough idea of cost if I led the game. I can see how many insert leds there are via the manual but not GI.

I believe the playfield GI is around 30 bulbs. Most if not all are round base. 31 wedge base bulbs in the backbox and 3 wedge base bulbs on the backboard, just above the playfield. 3 more wedge base bulbs for the pop bumpers, coin door bulbs for the coin slots (usually 2), one for each of the start and add-a-ball buttons. Plus all the insert ones shown in the manual.

#8383 76 days ago

Trying to verify whether a couple lights are out. In all lamps test should the Ultra Ramps and Jackpot lights on the left side flash? My Buy Tickets lamp is flashing but not those two. I have swapped bulbs with no change but I haven't swapped sockets yet.

#8384 76 days ago
Quoted from madamyates:

Trying to verify whether a couple lights are out. In all lamps test should the Ultra Ramps and Jackpot lights on the left side flash? My Buy Tickets lamp is flashing but not those two. I have swapped bulbs with no change but I haven't swapped sockets yet.

If they are flashers the interlock switch needs to be held down when running the test for them. I just mention it cause I always seem to forget that and end up running around in circles until it dawns on me.

#8385 76 days ago

Those bulbs on top of the ramps should come on in the all lamps test. They are regular bulbs not flashers. Check that the tabs inside the sockets are making good contact with the little wires on the bulbs. You can use a screw driver to pinch those socket tabs closer together or use your fingernail to fan out the bulb wires a little bit. Pretty common issue with LEDs not always making good contact when first installed.

#8386 74 days ago

Our dogball has lots of choc blocks underneath (that's what we call them here in the UK anyway)..
I'm finding them messy and wonder if I could put things right with some molex connectors
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Can anyone make sense of this? Or provide a photo of the same area?
I'm struggling to understand what happened here and why they replaced everything with this?

I've desoldered one opto from the striker knockout as it was broken. The two optos hanging are from the goal.

#8387 74 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Our dogball has lots of choc blocks underneath (that's what we call them here in the UK anyway)..
I'm finding them messy and wonder if I could put things right with some molex connectors
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Can anyone make sense of this? Or provide a photo of the same area?
I'm struggling to understand what happened here and why they replaced everything with this?
I've desoldered one opto from the striker knockout as it was broken. The two optos hanging are from the goal.

Whoa that is all hacked up!!! I would definitely replace those with more robust and factory like molex connectors and trifuricon connectors. Be well worth it in the long run and help diagnosis down the road.

#8388 74 days ago
Quoted from Steveboos:

Whoa that is all hacked up!!! I would definitely replace those with more robust and factory like molex connectors and trifuricon connectors. Be well worth it in the long run and help diagnosis down the road.

Yeah I'm just having trouble understanding it. I suppose I can see which ones are connected and just molex them.

I've just noticed the power box (what do you call it?) has no little fuse insert or jumpers ontop.

The fuse is missing, it looks like they've connected the wires together? I have no experience of this part of a wpc game so don't know.
Obviously I know to unplug the game when looking in here
20231221_161352 (resized).jpg20231221_161352 (resized).jpg

#8389 74 days ago

Comparison of stock vs pin stadiums if anyone cares. Got a used set last week. Really brightens this game up.

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#8390 74 days ago

That really brings out the teal.

#8391 72 days ago

Nearly finished our wcs.

I've got this part that came out of the tumbler with the rest of the larger parts .

I can't see where it goes, I've double checked photos and no sign of it.

Any ideas

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#8392 72 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Nearly finished our wcs.
I've got this part that came out of the tumbler with the rest of the larger parts .
I can't see where it goes, I've double checked photos and no sign of it.
Any ideas
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Attaches to the right ramp behind the ball. I only knew this cause when we picked up my friend's WCS we noticed this part had carved a line into the ball over time and questioned why it was there.

Pinside_archive_544_17551 (resized).jpgPinside_archive_544_17551 (resized).jpg

#8393 72 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

Attaches to the right ramp behind the ball. I only knew this cause when we picked up my friend's WCS we noticed this part had carved a line into the ball over time and questioned why it was there.
[quoted image]

Thank you so much!

#8394 71 days ago

Our project dogball is back together!

Sorry for the bad pic, I had to take a screenshot of a quick video I recorded.

Screenshot_20231224_074820_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231224_074820_Photos (resized).jpg

We've spent a lot getting new plastics, display, rubbers, new starposts, flipper rebuilds etc. Only done the playfield GI in comet 2smd at present, just to save money till after Christmas.

Now it's together I can start fettling and checking everything works properly and I've not assembled anything incorrectly.

Already I have a bunch of questions....

1. The CPR plastic kit came with two plastic goalies but the game had a sticker stuck to a rubber pad. I tried attaching the CPR goalie to the pad but it felt wrong as you're adding 3mm more thickness to the goalie and the screws struggled to make it through to the rear. What am I supposed to do?

2. The goalie and ball motor are noisy. Can I take apart, clean and re lubricate the gearboxes like I did for my TOM trunk gearbox?

3. Goalie doesn't move far left and the mech seems dodgy. I borrowed a WCS about a year ago where the goalie didn't move very well, I rerouted the wire from the switch and extended it slightly so it wasn't adding too much drag, this fixed it but I haven't tried it on ours or investigated the goalie much.
Except… the part the cam is mounted on wiggles. You can see the bolt end move on the other side, it's hard to explain without a pic so I'll get back to this.

4. How does the plastic over the lock area sit? I used spacers as it felt like it would have to bend a lot. Plus a ball got stuck leaving the lock playfield due to the plastic sitting low

And a bonus observation, before this project I never knew about this part of the right ramp
When does a ball trickle though this part into the pops? It seems unlikely unless you have really weak flippers?
Screenshot_20231224_080840_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231224_080840_Photos (resized).jpg

Screenshot_20231224_080526_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231224_080526_Photos (resized).jpg
#8395 71 days ago

Enjoy!

2. Yes, you can dissemble, clean, and lube…but the ball is a loud mech.

3. Definitely check if the cable is getting caught. The other problem with the mech is that the cams wear over time and end up elongated rather than circles. Replacements are available if they are very bad.

4. Post a pic. Mine doesn’t have spacers, but I don’t have any issues.

Bonus: very rare, indeed. Only happened once or twice in my two years of ownership.

1 week later
#8396 60 days ago

Cleaning out some of my parts stash - I have 1 brand new activated and licensed WCS94 Pin2DMD with cables, easy install completely plug and play.

Looks amazing, let me know if interested and I can send some pics when I get home from work later this evening.

$275 shipped.

Happy New Year all!

#8397 60 days ago
Quoted from Phoerber:

Cleaning out some of my parts stash - I have 1 brand new activated and licensed WCS94 Pin2DMD with cables, easy install completely plug and play.
Looks amazing, let me know if interested and I can send some pics when I get home from work later this evening.
$275 shipped.
Happy New Year all!

Sent you a message a few hours ago, thanks!

#8398 56 days ago

Ghost spinner scoring???

Lately it seems my game is scoring the spinner all on its own, the switch is ok and it tests and works fine when actually hit. It doesn't happen always but happens enough to be bothersome Has anyone ever had this happen? I don't like how easy it's become to get to the final hahaha!

#8399 55 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Signtist:

Lately it seems my game is scoring the spinner all on its own, the switch is ok and it tests and works fine when actually hit. It doesn't happen always but happens enough to be bothersome Has anyone ever had this happen? I don't like how easy it's become to get to the final hahaha!

The usual test is to put the game in switch test and then bang on the cabinet and playfield. This will show you what switch is triggering phantom hits.

Assuming it is the spinner, slightly bending the switch arm away from the spinner arm will likely fix the issue.

You can do that with a small flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers, but a leaf adjustment tool is a great investment if you don't have one.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

#8400 53 days ago

I've been having a few calls hangups when shooting the orbit. The ball can end up sitting to the left of the top lanes behind the goal.
Takes a huge nudge to get it out...
Is this common or is something likely awry?

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