i got him, because my plastic guy was more glue than plastic at this point. I really like it, haven't had any issues with it at all, no longer have to worry about parts breaking off and falling into the goal and jamming things up. and I don't see it hitting any harder or deflecting any harder or anything like that. can barely tell the difference which is what I was hoping for. And I got to get my guy in the Germany outfit so I can take him down!

Is it time for a new soccer ball? During gameplay the ball just lightly bounces off of it. No slinging it or redirecting of any kind. Like a brick wall. If the ball is rotating/spinning or not. Boring.

Where you get it. Send me a video bro!

Question about two features I’ve never heard about, from this PAPA Tutorial

At 02:07 Bowen talks about the first tv mode big goal round. He says if you sink the three shots within 3 seconds, you get the change at a fourth shot worth big points?

At 22:40 Bowen talks about a 4th TV award called Striker’s Revenge?

Are any of these true or is he having a laugh?

I got my WCS last year with a fairly new ball. When the ball hit the soccer ball, it goes flying and regularly hits the glass! Thrilling and terrifying at the same time!

May have been true on earlier ROM revisions, but in the later ones, no, neither of those exist, as far as I know.

I’ve been doing a complete rebuild of a friends WCS94… It’s getting all new ramps, plastics, rubbers, posts, cliffys, flippers, slings, pop bumpers, and all other mechs rebuilt entirely. Factory mylar removal, LEDs, board repair, cabinet repair and art restore.

I’ll post more when it’s moving along.

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Hello all! Just picked up this pin on Sunday. This is my first older pin. I currently have all NIB sterns. Everything functions properly and all features are working great. My only gripe with the pin is the power of the flippers and how the buttons feel. I’ve done a bit of research and found that it does not use leaves for the flipper buttons like my sterns do. The buttons to me feel very very loose when pressed. Is this something I will just have to deal with fliptronic style flippers? Or is there a way to make them feel a bit tighter? To increase flipper power should my first move be to just buy a rebuild kit and go from there ? Thanks all.

You can buy some metal shims that basically sit on top of the plastic opto interrupters and you can bend them in or out to not only give you more resistance when you press the flipper buttons in, but allow the flipper to return quicker as a leaf switch would.

Thanks. Any idea where I could find the shims to purchase ? Also, my coils are original Williams branded. I’m guessing these have been out of production for a bit. Maybe change those out to get more power? When I look online all the replacements for the coils are aftermarket companies.

Flipper Interrupter Part #03-9001...Located on the flipper boards mounted inside the cabinet next to each corresponding flipper button.

99.9999999% sure the coils are fine.

Buy a flipper rebuild kit as well to get that classic wpc flipper snappiness back. Part#A-13524-8

Read up on Vid's guide if you haven't rebuilt flipper before.

Thanks I will do all that

Pretty sure he’s just being a smart ass lol.

But I trust Bowen!!! Lol

Anyone know where I can find this single piece of plastic (i.e. not in a set)? I believe it’s the protector that goes over the lower right pop bumper to prevent balls from getting stuck in there. It’s pretty much the only place balls get stuck now.

Even the part number would be helpful!

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This # from ebay:
31-1925-4-SP
There is one for sale on there.

Thanks

Out of the blue, after fixing (stretching) the plunger diverter spring (was too weak) to make ramp diverter retract all the way back to the left ramp, I noticed that the goalie is only moving from the left side to the middle. He is no longer going all the way to the right side of the goal anymore.

Is there a video or tutorial somewhere on how to adjust the goalie?

Update: I figured it out. Wire to the goalie got pinched under the goalie spring and plate.
Is there a special way to make sure it doesn't get between the spring and plate other than just "experimenting" with the wire path?

It has to be free to move obviously so just try to make it avoid anything as it moves left/right?

It was fine for the 15+ years I've had the pin so it's strange that it got like this on it's own. Maybe just lifiting / lowering playfield was enough for it to move where it could get "pinched".

My right sling plastic is broken. I don't own a rivet press.

Anyone able to help out? I have a league night coming up first week of October and love to get this bad boy back up and running.

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Mine cracked too. I was nervous about rivets but I ended up doing the following:

I ordered a new plastic from pinball center (I’m in Australia and that was the cheapest for me, you might find a cheaper option). Then I used a small electric drill and drilled out the rivets. I recommend watching a video or two from YouTube, the main thing is you want your drill bit slightly bigger than the rivet hole.

Next I bought a small handheld pneumatic rivet press from my local hardware store (see photo below). It was $10 and came with some rivets, some of which was the perfect size. I simply had to squeeze the rivet in and I was done. Was a lot easier than what I thought.
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I think I may have one of these, though it was an old one and may be cracked. Let me know if you still need one and I can confirm. Feel free to DM!

If Rockwell's is cracked I have one as well, but it has yellowed over time.

These came out real nice, but turned out to be not required.

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Yes. WCS hardtops

Send them. I will repair them with Hardtops.

Any slim chance you can do a hardtop for Stern StingRay? Mine is fading fast and needs a cover.

If I have access to a sample, I can make the items required.

What do you mean by sample?

To repair your playfield, I would need you to send the playfield. If I had repaired the same title in the past, then the repair can be fairly quick. But if I am starting from scratch it takes a fair bit of time and effort.

Does anyone know the amount and type of bulb I need to replace all the GI’s? I bought a kit and it came with soft or warm white and I want to swap them out with cool white. Any info on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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WCS was unique in that 99% of the bulbs (both playfield and GI) are all 555 wedge style bulbs. The flashers are 906 wedge style flasher bulbs.

As for colour, it’s very subjective. Warm whites are for a more old school incandescent and darker look. Cool whites are more of a modern look. You can also go with an in between look with a sunlight style colour bulb.

As for colour leds, playfield colour leds tend to pop and look good. GI LED’s are much more controversial as some prefer white only GI and some like some colour GI (too much colour makes it look like a washed out clown show though).

It’s best to buy small batches and try. Trial and error. Good luck.

For the back panel three stadium-style bulbs though, make sure they have a cap on them. Naked LEDS will outright blind you!

Looking back at my notes, there are 30 playfield GI bulbs, 36 backbox GI bulbs and 3 bulbs in the backboard. As mentioned, all are wedge base 555's. I went with cool (natural) white everywhere with the exception of the ramp signs and the backboard bulbs. I was in the habit of colour matching my inserts and then switched to using cool white under those as well as I felt like it brought out truer colours that way. My game also has lit star posts on the slingshots, which came to me that way. Those star posts were clear and I changed them back to teal and between that and the proper teal pop bumper caps, I think the light coming through looks terrific.

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What I was hoping for and what I thought you made was clear playfield protectors or even a playfield protector with the graphics silkscreened on it.

Troubleshooting help please - sorry, I'm new to fixing these older games.

Never had any mechanical issues with this game in the year I have had it. I was playing a game last night. Drained a ball. Next ball did not eject into the trough. I opened the coin door and manually ejected a ball. Shot the ball into the VUK and it did not fire the coil to shoot the ball up.

Is there a power board I need to look at? The bumpers, flippers, goalie, and ball were all working correctly.

Go to the test menu and fire the solenoids to see that they are working.

Either close the coin door as well, or make sure the interlock switch is activated (using the small yellow latch, or pull it out until it pops.)

in addition to making sure the interlock switch is activated, also make sure none of the wires have come loose from the back of the interlock switch.

Actually, to build on this, could one of you post a photo showing the various wiring connections on the back of those switches? There are two right? One for the power interlock and one for the memory or something like that. I think mine are a little backwards because I have a Theatre of Magic right beside it and that little yellow tool you use to keep the plunger in while working seems to work fine on my ToM but it doesn’t on WCS. Like the switches are reversed somehow. Thanks.

I would only use about half the lamp sockets in the back box and only with 1SMD bulbs. Otherwise, it is too bright and reflects off the playfield glass too much. These 1SMD LED Cool White bulbs are brighter than incandescent bulbs. The Retro bulbs are similar in brightness to an incandescent. https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/retro

Just got a new goal keeper, a missing plastic protector above the pop bumpers, and a makeshift topper. Love this game when it’s firing on all cylinders.

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Just picked up a World Cup Soccer!

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This is actually a reimport from Germany. The coin slots are labeled Deutsche Mark, which is kinda fitting for the theme.

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Congrats on the new pin. It’s a super fun game.

Has anyone seen this style of coin bucket bracket? It doesn’t fit a standard bucket.

I thought maybe it was added by an op but it’s original, there are T-nuts under the bottom board to attach it.

You can see the standard small bracket that is usually under the coin door was never there.

I’m wondering if this is due to it being build for the German market.

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What brackets do you guys use with the original topper?