(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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There are 8,362 posts in this topic. You are on page 163 of 168.
#8101 7 months ago
Quoted from Seelan:

So. Here some images. Many plastics are broken and need replacement, but in general I am very happy.
Waiting to install some LED strips
Here a short video

[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks AMAZING! Great job!

#8102 7 months ago

Ok, i ordered a Pin2DMD, it should arrive in a few weeks!

#8103 7 months ago
Quoted from duggum:

A couple of questions about this, since I foresee a time when I'll be doing this too:
1) I've always assumed the playfield has to be upright in order to get at the underside to loosen/tighten the flippers. How does the flipper "rest" on the toothpick/whatever when gravity pulls it in the other direction? Are you doing this through the coin door or something?
2) Somewhere I read that you align the flippers before the rubber is put on, not after (it's in some notes I took a while ago). Is that not how most people do it?
Thanks!

1.) Good point. You definitely are doing this with the playfield up and not through the coin door. I rarely have a helper so it's just me and one pair of hands to hold or adjust things. What I normally do is get everything replaced (coil sleeve, coil stop, linkage and plunger, etc.) with the playfield up and resting all the way back (against the backbox). I then slip the flipper bat back in and tighten it just enough so it stays, but you can still rotate it with your hand. I put the playfield back down and move the flipper to where it needs to be. Once I'm happy with that, I tighten it further from underneath. If it isn't where I want it, I loosen, adjust and retighten. Once you get the flipper even slightly tightened, you take out the gravity effect.

2.) I tighten with the rubber on, but I suppose you could do it with the rubber off. That would mean your flippers would lie flatter at rest by a small amount. Then you put the rubber on and see how it is. If you think they are too low, then redo them. It is more of a feel adjustment to how you like to play as far as I'm concerned. The alignment dots are there as a guide or starting point. Sure, they can be thought of as a specific, exact place for the flippers to be, but the reality is that pinball machines are all going to vary in how they are set-up or how they play. They are very predictable in some ways and completely unpredictable in others. If you are a golfer, it's more like how the ball lies out on the course than how you set it down perfectly on a flat spot on the driving range. Same goes for the odd saucer reject or ball coming back around an orbit. It's consistent "most" of the time just not all of the time.

#8104 7 months ago
Quoted from duggum:

1) I've always assumed the playfield has to be upright in order to get at the underside to loosen/tighten the flippers. How does the flipper "rest" on the toothpick/whatever when gravity pulls it in the other direction? Are you doing this through the coin door or something?

Pinball machines have more than one "service position." How many and how they work depend a bit on the machine.

In this case, you should do most of your flipper rebuild work with the playfield fully upright, leaning against the backbox. Tighten the nut that secures the flipper bat to the crank to the point where you can still rotate the flipper by hand when you hold the crank.

Then...lower the playfield but rest the service rails on the lockdown bar location (pic below). Put the toothpick in and rest the flipper on the toothpick. Then, holding the flipper with your hand, tighten the nut on the crank. It should be very tight.

Quoted from duggum:

2) Somewhere I read that you align the flippers before the rubber is put on, not after (it's in some notes I took a while ago). Is that not how most people do it?

AFAIK, most people say to align it with the rubber on. You can verify this my rolling a ball down the inlane and ensuring it makes a smooth/straight transition to the flipper. You don't want it to "hop"

pbl-100-0025-00_set-1_300x225 (resized).jpgpbl-100-0025-00_set-1_300x225 (resized).jpg
#8105 7 months ago
Quoted from duggum:

1) I've always assumed the playfield has to be upright in order to get at the underside to loosen/tighten the flippers. How does the flipper "rest" on the toothpick/whatever when gravity pulls it in the other direction? Are you doing this through the coin door or something?

2) Somewhere I read that you align the flippers before the rubber is put on, not after (it's in some notes I took a while ago). Is that not how most people do it?

1. Flipper spring should keep it down.
2. However, #1 is not really important, as technically, put the rubber on, and slip your toothpick between rubber and flipper - so that the rubber 'holds' the flipper.

Honestly, tho? Aim and adjust your flippers how you want, and what feels 'good' for you - everyone has their own preference.

#8106 7 months ago
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:

I think im gonna go with the LCD-ColorDMD, tho i want it to be in dots.

Then save the money and by the LED ColorDMD. I personally hate the LCD look on this vintage pinball.

#8107 7 months ago
Quoted from Phoerber:

Then save the money and by the LED ColorDMD. I personally hate the LCD look on this vintage pinball.

LED also brighter, IMHO. Blacks are blacker (because no backlight like the LCD)..
Having said that, I'm surprised that I hadn't heard of an AMOLED or OLED screen offering yet from them.

#8108 7 months ago

I've installed 6v LED strips. but there is a very noticeable flicker on the light, so much that is annoying.

Is the GI current AC? How do I correct the issue? I saw that comet sells the strip with some kind of rectifier.

Another thing. The right flipper sometimes stays up. It is mechanic because when I move it by hand I can feel resistance at the end of the movement. I've tried swapping the coil sleeve but it made it worse. Is it the coil stop?

Thanks everyone for the answers!

#8109 7 months ago
Quoted from Seelan:

I've installed 6v LED strips. but there is a very noticeable flicker on the light, so much that is annoying.
Is the GI current AC? How do I correct the issue? I saw that comet sells the strip with some kind of rectifier.
Another thing. The right flipper sometimes stays up. It is mechanic because when I move it by hand I can feel resistance at the end of the movement. I've tried swapping the coil sleeve but it made it worse. Is it the coil stop?
Thanks everyone for the answers!

Mine had led strips in the ball trough and under the shooter lane cover that were poorly installed into one of the GI idc connectors that caused some flicker. I removed them because of the issue. I think to do them properly would have required a repin with two wires going into one terminal and I didn't think it was worth it. My guess would be coil stop, I know defective coil stops cause the upright flipper issue on modern sterns. But, I would go to switch test to make sure your low voltage isn't stuck on causing that flipper to stay up.

#8110 7 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Mine had led strips in the ball trough and under the shooter lane cover that were poorly installed into one of the GI idc connectors that caused some flicker. I removed them because of the issue. I think to do them properly would have required a repin with two wires going into one terminal and I didn't think it was worth it. My guess would be coil stop, I know defective coil stops cause the upright flipper issue on modern sterns. But I would go to switch test to make sure your low voltage isn't stuck on causing that flipper to stay up.

#8111 7 months ago
Quoted from Seelan:

I've installed 6v LED strips. but there is a very noticeable flicker on the light, so much that is annoying.
Is the GI current AC? How do I correct the issue? I saw that comet sells the strip with some kind of rectifier.
Another thing. The right flipper sometimes stays up. It is mechanic because when I move it by hand I can feel resistance at the end of the movement. I've tried swapping the coil sleeve but it made it worse. Is it the coil stop?
Thanks everyone for the answers!

Time for a flipper rebuild kit. Linkage, plunger, coil sleeve and coil stop. It's probably getting magnetically stuck at the coil stop.

#8112 7 months ago

Did you know theres an easter egg on WCS? Before starting a game, input this code using the flippers (R = Right, L = Left): 19R + 1L + 1R + 1L + 3R + 1L

#8113 6 months ago

I just bought a WCS that was on a route. I had never played the game, but after a week with this, I know why it was so highly rated. It's a great game. I noticed as took apart the ramps to clean that the left ramp where it attaches on the right side in the middle of the playfield has a black plastic attached that doesn't seem right. Plus there's a crack and what looks to be a piece missing on the plastic where the ramp is screwed into. I've attached three pictures and was hoping someone could post a picture of what should be there. Much appreciated.

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#8114 6 months ago
Quoted from Bluebeard:

I've attached three pictures and was hoping someone could post a picture of what should be there.

Congrats on the game it is a crowd pleaser! You're missing the purple plastic and it looks like someone fashioned that black piece to stop ball traps. It's a big plastic but I can't quite see in your pic if it is missing altogether or broken.

IMG_3638 (resized).jpegIMG_3638 (resized).jpeg

#8115 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I have owned both the LCD and LED ColorDMD as well as the Pin2DMD and my recommendation is the LCD-ColorDMD (regardless of what dot mode you prefer). The LED image is composed of pinpoint dots of bright light at a low dot pitch, compared to the LCD that is more of a solid image. The only reason to get the Pin2DMD is the lower price, but for that lower price you give up the superior colorization of the ColorDMD. I have had the Pin2DMD in two machines - World Cup Soccer and The Shadow and there are issues with strange patterns and colors in the animations that are left over from the previous animation screens. Also, the color choices can be a little strange on the Pin2DMD. My understanding is that the Pin2DMD colorizations are contributed by the enthusiast community, and the ColorDMD are by hired artists. This may be why the colors are more vibrant and fun on the ColorDMD?
ColorDMD are more expensive but you get what you pay for if your goal is to colorize your DMD.

Some great points here.

Totally comes down to the author and their colour choices and skill.

The latest Shadow by jedimastermatt is an excellent example of how games can be coloured. Great colour choices and the technical issues mentioned about strange patterns and issues would unlikely be from his version. What you describe sounds like transitions that are not handled correctly, and while they can still happen in a lot of games, certain techniques can overcome this or make it much less noticeable. WCS is another one where the files have been updated over time but are done by a different author. If you could let us know the dates of the files or even when you had these issues, we should be able to tell which version was around then.

Pin2DMD colour files are contributed by the community and can be at various stages, but I would definitely put some versions above other platforms in terms of quality. Having a community with dedicated passion for their own colour file can definitely turn out to be a plus, some spend hundreds of hours perfecting the file, as their main goal is to get the best looking display for their machine first and foremost and are not on any deadline.

I can agree some games are not complete or have different styles and colours, but I wouldn't say as a blanket statement that one platform is more vibrant and fun over another. It all comes down to each individual game, there are plenty examples so it is worth checking out.

Thanks!

#8116 6 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

Congrats on the game it is a crowd pleaser! You're missing the purple plastic and it looks like someone fashioned that black piece to stop ball traps. It's a big plastic but I can't quite see in your pic if it is missing altogether or broken.
[quoted image]

Thanks, the purple piece is broken off from mine, thanks for the picture. Now I know what I need.

#8117 6 months ago
Quoted from Bluebeard:

Thanks, the purple piece is broken off from mine, thanks for the picture. Now I know what I need.

Your ramp has a chunk missing from it too. Front right. There is a metal ramp protector that often would be there to try and prevent the plastic corner of the ramp from getting whacked.

#8118 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

1. Flipper spring should keep it down.
2. However, #1 is not really important, as technically, put the rubber on, and slip your toothpick between rubber and flipper - so that the rubber 'holds' the flipper.
Honestly, tho? Aim and adjust your flippers how you want, and what feels 'good' for you - everyone has their own preference.

Thanks to you and everyone else for clearing that up. At some point I want to replace the flipper bats (it's purely aesthetic, the machine I have came with yellow flippers and I think it'd look better with white flippers), and figured that would be a good time to do a little adjustment. I'm not planning to do it until my daughter tires of the game a bit, I don't want to make my only customer angry!

#8119 6 months ago

Great answers everyone!

I got some replacement plastics, but they should get riveted to other parts, what kind of tool(s) do I need?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8120 6 months ago

Thinking of ordering some new flippers for my WCS, but idk what color they should be. Probably gonna buy purple ones but would you recommend any other color since the playfield already is so purple? Although, purple is my favorite color.

#8121 6 months ago
Quoted from Thegamerskunk:

Thinking of ordering some new flippers for my WCS, but idk what color they should be. Probably gonna buy purple ones but would you recommend any other color since the playfield already is so purple? Although, purple is my favorite color.

They should be white with red rubber.

#8122 6 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Your ramp has a chunk missing from it too. Front right. There is a metal ramp protector that often would be there to try and prevent the plastic corner of the ramp from getting whacked.

I saw that and looking at pictures I realize I'm missing the black plate that leads to the ramps. Thanks for the heads up.

#8123 6 months ago
Quoted from Seelan:

Great answers everyone!
I got some replacement plastics, but they should get riveted to other parts, what kind of tool(s) do I need?
[quoted image][quoted image]

So you may or may not want to do this but what I did was break off the metal rivets from the old piece and used small bolts with a nut on the bottom to fasten it in place. It’s worked great.

However, now I want to replace the right slingshot plastic which has a riveted piece as well and this time I might have to bite the bullet and re-rivet it as nut and bolts won’t work here as it would hit the ball. Following this post for responses.

#8124 6 months ago

My new plexi art blades by custom pinball in France.

Question, when my playfields up, it it’s rubbing the left side with more room in the right. Can you adjust that somehow? Bolts are tight.

IMG_6653 (resized).jpegIMG_6653 (resized).jpegIMG_6654 (resized).jpegIMG_6654 (resized).jpeg
#8125 6 months ago
Quoted from beltking:

My new plexi art blades by custom pinball in France.
Question, when my playfields up, it it’s rubbing the left side with more room in the right. Can you adjust that somehow? Bolts are tight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Look really nice, is there a link to purchase those?

#8126 6 months ago
Quoted from beltking:

My new plexi art blades by custom pinball in France.
Question, when my playfields up, it it’s rubbing the left side with more room in the right. Can you adjust that somehow? Bolts are tight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

agreed, link please!!!! never seen these before and they look gorgeous!!!!

#8127 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

agreed, link please!!!! never seen these before and they look gorgeous!!!!

[email protected]

#8128 6 months ago

Anyone have this plastic for sale?

IMG_6667 (resized).jpegIMG_6667 (resized).jpeg
#8129 6 months ago
Quoted from beltking:

Anyone have this plastic for sale?
[quoted image]

When I get off work I'll look. I may have one.

#8130 6 months ago
Quoted from beltking:

Anyone have this plastic for sale?
[quoted image]

Ministry of Pinball in the UK shows that part as in stock.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/world-cup-soccer-94-plastic-31-1925-37-sp.html

#8131 6 months ago

email has been sent to find out some info, thank you!

#8132 6 months ago

Hey guys and gals, seriously considering this as my next pin. One thing I would really want to know though is how often this thing needs repairs and general maintenance. Cheers!

#8133 6 months ago
Quoted from Nintegageo:

Hey guys and gals, seriously considering this as my next pin. One thing I would really want to know though is how often this thing needs repairs and general maintenance. Cheers!

I have found it to be quite reliable. None of the mechs are overly complicated and disassembly below the playfield is easy. That said, topside teardown is more involved than some others.

Based on what I see in your collection, I doubt you'll have any issues with owning/maintaining it.

#8134 6 months ago

scootss appreciate the reply!

#8135 6 months ago

Just for clarity, Ministry of Pinball is in the Netherlands, not the UK.

#8136 6 months ago
Quoted from Nintegageo:

Hey guys and gals, seriously considering this as my next pin. One thing I would really want to know though is how often this thing needs repairs and general maintenance. Cheers!

I have only had mine for 6 months so Im probably a terrible person to answer this question but I have had no real issues except previous owner let battery leak onto board, luckily not too bad, was able to get back there and clean it easily. Still need to move that battery pack a little bit away from everything else, luckily it is portable. and then my goalie, he was super beat up when I got him so I glued him back together which is holding pretty well for now but i also purchased a metal version that I plan on popping in there. oh and then I did have to remove some of the ramp and some other items. everything went fairly strait forward and easy standard pin type stuff. I like the settings on this machine much more than the data east machines.

#8137 6 months ago
Quoted from Nintegageo:

Hey guys and gals, seriously considering this as my next pin. One thing I would really want to know though is how often this thing needs repairs and general maintenance. Cheers!

I bought mine a month and a half ago, I spent a bunch of time looking into potential problems prior to purchase. The toys (spinning ball, moving goalie) seem to be pretty reliable, and I haven't seen any major problems that are big red flags or major failure points on most games. The only thing I'd look out for is the condition of the ramps, there are replacements available, but everything I've read makes it sound like replacing them takes a bunch of time and effort.

#8138 6 months ago
Quoted from Nintegageo:

Hey guys and gals, seriously considering this as my next pin. One thing I would really want to know though is how often this thing needs repairs and general maintenance. Cheers!

I’d try to get one recently shopped because topside is a 10/10 difficulty rebuild. Everything else should be similar to your other 5 wpc games.

#8139 6 months ago

Thanks for the answers guys. The ball and goalie mechs were my main concerns though the insight with topside I do appreciate, as I tend to do playfield protectors on my games . Am talking a possible trade with a local-ish dealer so the thing is restored and amazing. He has other machines, but this is the one I really want. Glad to know it is a reliable machine.

#8140 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Still need to move that battery pack a little bit away from everything else, luckily it is portable.

Indeed. This spot with some cheap standoffs I purchased on Amazon worked well.

IMG_3317 (resized).jpegIMG_3317 (resized).jpegIMG_3318 (resized).jpegIMG_3318 (resized).jpeg
#8141 6 months ago
Quoted from Nintegageo:

Thanks for the answers guys. The ball and goalie mechs were my main concerns though the insight with topside I do appreciate, as I tend to do playfield protectors on my games . Am talking a possible trade with a local-ish dealer so the thing is restored and amazing. He has other machines, but this is the one I really want. Glad to know it is a reliable machine.

There is no point in putting a playfield protector on this game…or any other one.

#8142 6 months ago

To each their own

#8143 6 months ago

Thanks for all the ongoing help here!

My latest problem is that I was re-seating some connectors on the coin door interface board and now I cannot get into the game menu!

When I hit the “enter” button it is now volume up.

When I hit the volume up button I is now the volume down button

When I hit the volume down button it is now the escape button.

When I hit the escape button nothing happens but i hear a weird “train whistling” sound clip being played. I have never heard this sound before.

You would think this is a simple problem of pins being misaligned on the A-17051-1 board but after checking them multiple times they are where they should be.

I am specifically looking at the J5 connection. See picture below bottom left connection.

Any ideas on what is happening?
MPU board looks fine as well.

IMG_8428 (resized).jpegIMG_8428 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#8144 5 months ago

Has anyone here ever treated their new soccer ball rubber somehow to make it -less- grippy? The new soccer ball I put into my machine has very strong grip and flings the ball so violently, it's a miracle that everything in the general vicinity hasn't been completely demolished by the ball smashing around.

Over time, I imagine it getting more dirty would help. I have maybe 50 plays on the new ball at this point.

But...it scares me.

#8145 5 months ago

Good day everybody,

I have one concern with my WCS.
When the ball goes through the orbit with full speed, when traveling to another citiy. Most of the time it goes straight to the left outlane.
I think i have to reallign the metal guides from the outlane, but therefore i have to dissasamble ramps and stuff.
So my question is, if this bahavior is maybe normal ?

Greets
Patrick

#8146 5 months ago

Hi Patrick. I had something similar in that the right free kick shot the ball sdtm most of the time. I adjusted the legs to make the angle of the game steeper and that solved my problem. Perhaps try that first. It can be frenetic when you travel to a new city but the ball shouldn’t drain every time - that’s no fun.

#8147 5 months ago

Many thanks for your help, i will try this first.
Now the next question to every one, what is your prefered angle for the WCS ?
Thanks in advance.

#8148 5 months ago

Manual says 6-6.5 degrees.

#8149 5 months ago
Quoted from KalleColucci:

Many thanks for your help, i will try this first.
Now the next question to every one, what is your prefered angle for the WCS ?
Thanks in advance.

As steep as possible without compromising the penalty shot.

#8150 5 months ago

Does anyone know where to get a replacement for the plastic that has the J shape metal bracket on it right after plunging ball through skill shot. It goes through skill shot then onto this J shape to inlane. Mine placates is cracked that its on.

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