I do have one new issue I didn’t have before and just noticed. My start button and extra ball button lights don’t work. Switches work lights no. Changed bulbs still no go. They do not affect game play of course.

Weird issue came up a few days ago and was wondering what Pinside thinks about it.

In the middle of the game, usually at ball 2 or ball 3 ball launch, the coin toss indicator lights are working normally. However when you plunge and hit a flashing coin toss lane the opto will not register and remain flashing after plunge. It will stay flashing for a few more seconds and then return to unlit. When this happens I am unable to complete the skill shot.

In test mode, all of the opto switches register fine in the individual switch mode. So something else is happening.

Again, it’s an intermittent issue. It doesn’t happen every game, and when it does it’s usually later on.

Any ideas? No other issues have been noted.

I would take out the opto board, clean, align, reflow as a first step.

Are you running the latest software revision? Highest ver is L2 so you probably are since that's not a lot of software updates.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2811

Have you looked for bad wiring connections and cold solder joints on the opto boards in the circuit. There's boards for each switch and then a 7 opto board under the PF?

anyone have a suggestion on what to check for this?

My start button and extra ball button lights don’t work. Switches work lights no. Changed bulbs still no go. They do not affect game play of course.

Is this a fuse issue perhaps? I checked all of the ones on the driver board and they look fine.

They're part of the light matrix. Wires go from the power driver board (J134 & J136) to the coin door interface board (J3) to the cabinet switches. Check wiring between those. Since it affects both, either a plug is off (J134/J136), or the yellow wire (from J136, that feeds both lamps) is broken.

Thanks will check this when I get home. Seems odd that this would all of the sudden stop working. All other lighting works in the game (went through lamp test).

Anyone know the correct replacement target switch assembly for World Cup Soccer? I'm replacing the goalie and the one that's in there isn't original a beat up. I think it needs threw holes to mount the goalie.

Thank you for this it seems J136 was off just enough not to have full contact and thus no lights. Guess I must have bumped it last time I was in the backbox or something.

On another note is there a video or tutorial out there for swapping out the soccer ball motor/gearbox? Anything special I need to know about doing it?

Lastly what does everyone use to clean the soccer ball - novus, naptha, something else? Mine is in good shape (not eaten up or anything) but has that typical dirt line around the bottom.

So looks like I am missing this plastic as well does this exist anywhere on its own?

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Found one on ebay awhile back.

I think I may have a spare one of these. Drop me a DM, I will check in the meantime!

Thank you, I did a search there previously under World Cup Soccer and it hadn't come up, but see it does if you use their game menu.

I haven't done this, but from reading this thread a month ago (the whole thing!) I get the impression that replacing the motor is pretty straightforward: just remove a couple of screws, unplug the wires, remove and replace. There's a post from a couple of years ago where the person says they just removed a couple screws to get the motor out, it also contains a diagram of the whole enchilada: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/132#post-6135866

You just need to detatch the motor (2) from the bracket (1) and unplug the assembly (5). Hopefully someone here who has done this before will chime in to confirm.

On a related note, my soccer ball spins the wrong way (away from the goal during regular play). From reading this thread it looks like all I need to do is swap the two wires and it'll spin the right way. Can someone here confirm that this is the case?

let me know if you find it somewhere.

I haven't seen it anywhere on its own, but you can get it with a relatively limited set of other plastics at Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925

Anyone know of a place I can order a right slingshot plastic with the coin toss exit assembly riveted on like this?

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I have a brand new one of these spare but I’m in Australia
Let me know if interested

Is that the one that goes on top of the vuk wireform?

If so, pinball pimp made a decal to go on it.

EDIT..... I might be wrong. But it looks similar

Yes it is. I have the decal set and its how I noticed I am missing the plastic, lol.

A fellow forum member is helping me out

I bought a new ball from Marcos for the WCS I bought a few weeks back. It arrived yesterday and I've got a question: the ball I got does not have a screw hole in the top, do people just put a hole in the rubber to screw it down, or do the balls from Marcos not need a screw? Can anybody who has put in a new ball from Marcos confirm that you used a screw? If so, do you have any tips? I was thinking of making a small hole through the bottom so that I can find precisely where to put the hole in the top.

The rubber is very thin at the top where the screw goes. In the right light, it should be easy to see where to just press the screw through. Good luck, a new ball makes a world of difference!

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Hi, i've had my World Cup Soccer for about two years now, but i somehow haven't found this topic forum until today lol. If anyone would like to get to know me or know more about my WCS, just DM me, i'd be more than happy to talk with another WCS owner!

So I am at attempting to rivet this ball guide assembly to the slingshot plastic myself. There are two rivet holes.

What size of rivets am I looking for?

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Instead of riveting it on, would it be possible to use two small screws/bolts and nuts to hold it on? I'm guessing you can't go too deep but if you could find a short enough screw/nut or bolt/nut combo that should hold it on and you wouldn't have to find the specific size rivet and buy tools (if you don't already have them).

Yeah I can try that but it’d have to be super short screws as the rivet holes sit on top of the shooter lane and right inlane.

I don't have the rivet tools and have never had to rivet anything together so I always look for the easier alternative, even though it may not look original. Of course, if there isn't enough room/clearance then it may not work.

I’ve avoided rivets for the longest time. Usually I do use nuts and bolts instead but for this piece I think I either have to bite the bullet and use rivets and do something hot glue clue the pieces together. It has to be flat with no protrusions on either side.

I dont have any mods installed YET on my WCS, but i rly wanna get a color-DMD for it, but idk which one. Should i get the one by Color-DMD, Pin2DMD or someone else?

Depends on how much you want to spend. Colordmd is by far the best and by far the most expensive

Color DMD LED is a masterpiece for all the bally / williams and first sterns, the colorisation is really really great.
The first time i saw the product, i also saw the price, and at the time was 200 euros less expensive than nowadays... and i was like.... hoooo a pin2dmd will do the job, it's half price.... but then when i compared the two side by side.... damn... you can't compare! and i really love the effect XL DOT, in my opinion is the best way to display.
I have 6 in all my 7 dot machines, i don't have in the last machine i bought because right now i don't have money for it, but i will buy it next year.

Hi guys, i just took delivery of a WCS and can't start a game. the table previously had a color DMD but it was removed before transport. I have pin2dmd on the way but in the meantime, i took the mono DMD out of my Gilligans and plugged that in.

battery mod has been done and the AAs were dead and battery box corroded but i already swapped out for new batteries and cleaned up the corrosion.

when i turn on the machine, it always shows factory reset.

time and date is not remembered

when i run test i get "Check fuses F115 and F116, J112 and opto 12v supply

i can add credits but i can't seem to start a game

machine was functioning with the color DMD before it packed up and the DMD removed.
I suspect i may have hooked something up incorrectly. Also, my gilligans DMD is just that, there is no DMD controller board. could it just be that it won't work without a controller board? the DMD still functions perfectly so i'm not really sure

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So i should get the one by Color-DMD?

Follow the steps in this post to see if that resolves your issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/check-f115-f116-j112-and-12v-opto-supply-#post-5635958

I have owned both the LCD and LED ColorDMD as well as the Pin2DMD and my recommendation is the LCD-ColorDMD (regardless of what dot mode you prefer). The LED image is composed of pinpoint dots of bright light at a low dot pitch, compared to the LCD that is more of a solid image. The only reason to get the Pin2DMD is the lower price, but for that lower price you give up the superior colorization of the ColorDMD. I have had the Pin2DMD in two machines - World Cup Soccer and The Shadow and there are issues with strange patterns and colors in the animations that are left over from the previous animation screens. Also, the color choices can be a little strange on the Pin2DMD. My understanding is that the Pin2DMD colorizations are contributed by the enthusiast community, and the ColorDMD are by hired artists. This may be why the colors are more vibrant and fun on the ColorDMD?

ColorDMD are more expensive but you get what you pay for if your goal is to colorize your DMD.

thanks i'll report back

I have an lcd colordmd in my demo man and am not considering putting them in either of my other wpc dmd games. I just don't really look up when I'm playing so can't justify the very large expense. Maybe if they were half the price they are I would do it. I'd guess I'm in the minority on this though, they seem to command their full price in resale.

The original DMD on mine was starting to flake out, so I bought the LED version of the ColorDMD. It's a *really* nice upgrade. It's obviously not necessary, but the game is such a colorful game and the colorful display really just fits. FWIW, I prefer the LED style to the LCD style, but if you poll 100 people I think you'd find 50 people that prefer LCD and 50 people that prefer LED. If you get a chance you should watch the YouTube videos they made so you can make a choice for yourself.

I think im gonna go with the LCD-ColorDMD, tho i want it to be in dots.

So, I've joined the club 3 weeks ago, but was busy reading 162 pages of this thread, so I don't ask stupid or repeated questions. Took a lot of ideas from here (speaker stencils!) and have some extra ideas that I will share with you as soon as I'm done.

This weekend I installed a playfield protector, and since it's so shiny it gives a "new pin" look. The playfield was really in good condition, some minor markings but all inserts are fine. I've changed the ball and motor. added some LEDs to replace the 100s of bulbs and that already gave new life to the pin.

Since I'm in Switzerland some of the options you have for purchasing LEDs and parts are not really feasible for me. The shipping cost kills the fun of any possible purchase. I bought a LOT of LEDs from Aliexpress, some are shitty but others are really good. I will share my experiences here.

Now my question is the following: I had to remove the flippers to install the protector and don't know exactly how they need to be aligned at rest. I saw some markings on the playfield. Are they supposed to be below the flippers, centered? Does someone have pictures of their alignment on hand?

Thanks! I will post pictures soon.

Yes, those alignment holes in the playfield at the flippers are meant for that. One method I have seen others mention is using a small peg or post or toothpick even to insert into the hole and then let the flipper come down to rest on the alignment peg. So those holes are below the flipper. And do this with the flipper rubber installed. Remove the peg when you're finished.

If you just use them visually, I tend to align things so that when you look straight down on them from above, you can see only the hole and not any small bit of playfield between the hole and the back of the flipper. That's the idea anyway.

You can also adjust them more to how you like them and how the shots feel on your game. Flatter at rest lets you hit outside shots easier and more upright at rest lets you hit inside shots more easily. If you adjust them far enough upright, you'll start to be able to hit ramps with a backhand from the flipper on the same side as the ramp (or orbit). I don't care for games set up like this. I don't think it's how the designer intended it to be.

You can also look to keep the flippers in a straight line with the inlane guides. And you can obviously adjust both flippers individually, so getting them both at rest and while flipped to the same height is a consideration. One thing that will definitely affect that is having the correct parts on both sides, including the rubber grommet in the backend of the flipper bracket. This grommet is what will dictate how many degrees rotation that flipper has. So lower at rest also menas lower flipped up, so how well you can cradle the ball is affected.

So. Here some images. Many plastics are broken and need replacement, but in general I am very happy.

Waiting to install some LED strips

Here a short video

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A couple of questions about this, since I foresee a time when I'll be doing this too:

1) I've always assumed the playfield has to be upright in order to get at the underside to loosen/tighten the flippers. How does the flipper "rest" on the toothpick/whatever when gravity pulls it in the other direction? Are you doing this through the coin door or something?

2) Somewhere I read that you align the flippers before the rubber is put on, not after (it's in some notes I took a while ago). Is that not how most people do it?

Thanks!