I remeasured this AM on a flat surface (my driveway is sloped) and it appears my clearance from the top of my bumper latch to the bottom of the dome light in the back is 31" so I should be in the clear. Tight but clear.
Thanks
I remeasured this AM on a flat surface (my driveway is sloped) and it appears my clearance from the top of my bumper latch to the bottom of the dome light in the back is 31" so I should be in the clear. Tight but clear.
Thanks
Quoted from GCS2000:I remeasured this AM on a flat surface (my driveway is sloped) and it appears my clearance from the top of my bumper latch to the bottom of the dome light in the back is 31" so I should be in the clear. Tight but clear.
Thanks
Not sure what year santa fe you have, but I have a 2010 for moving games and a wpc cabinet fits fine.
Quoted from Tablewicked:Not sure what year santa fe you have, but I have a 2010 for moving games and a wpc cabinet fits fine.
2022
Quoted from allsportdvd:Actually better than that, looks like I have a spare brand new plastic
However, can't find the decal you showed before. I searched all WCS ads
[quoted image]
dude first off your restoration is soooo good and sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo pretty!!!!! like wow well done. Second off awesome!!! wanna mail it to me?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:dude first off your restoration is soooo good and sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo pretty!!!!! like wow well done. Second off awesome!!! wanna mail it to me?
It’s going to cost me close to $20 in shipping to send it to you
Find and ship to me the decal for this plastic and we call it even?
Quoted from allsportdvd:Here are some pics of my restore, any improvements are welcomed
I have done the following
You forgot to add the fact that even your feet/leg leveler protectors are yellow. Way to carry the theme all the way through your work!
allsportdvd - is this the decal set you're looking for? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1084-pinball-pimp/05577-wcs-94-pinball-6-piece-custom-designed-full-decal-set
Quoted from sullivcd40:This is kinda cool, I still wish I could just find the coin toss decal though.[quoted image]
Omg!!! I have that same coin and have been loooking for an idea to do with it!! This is genius!
Quoted from allsportdvd:It’s going to cost me close to $20 in shipping to send it to you
Find and ship to me the decal for this plastic and we call it even?
Wow really? That's a bit too pricey for me right now.I've recently purchased a bunch of pinball stuff so need to lay low fpr a bit. Thanks so much for looking into it and offering though.
Quoted from Ceckitti:Omg!!! I have that same coin and have been loooking for an idea to do with it!! This is genius!
Credit to GNStevens for the idea. My daughter chose tails, heads side is cool too though.
Quoted from egyptrus:allsportdvd - is this the decal set you're looking for? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1084-pinball-pimp/05577-wcs-94-pinball-6-piece-custom-designed-full-decal-set
Oh yea that’s the one! Thought it was only 1 decal lol
I've noticed an issue where the striker kickoff will fire twice randomly, like it thinks a ball is in there. I took the goal trough and striker hole optos out and cleaned them but the problem still pops up intermittently. I have new optos on the way but wondering if I should be looking at anything else while I'm waiting on them to arrive?
Quoted from sullivcd40:I've noticed an issue where the striker kickoff will fire twice randomly, like it thinks a ball is in there. I took the goal trough and striker hole optos out and cleaned them but the problem still pops up intermittently. I have new optos on the way but wondering if I should be looking at anything else while I'm waiting on them to arrive?
If you think it is an opto problem and cleaning doesn't fix it...take the opto board out and inspect and re-flow the solder. I've had my game for a year and the only real issue I have had has been opto issues that were solved by reflowing.
Quoted from scootss:If you think it is an opto problem and cleaning doesn't fix it...take the opto board out and inspect and re-flow the solder. I've had my game for a year and the only real issue I have had has been opto issues that were solved by reflowing.
I think this worked, couple longer games now without issue. I took apart the striker kicker and cleaned it up and reflowed solder on the pads that the wires connect to as well as the opto joints. I think one of the joints might have been cracked, they are really small so it's hard to tell. Thanks for the tip, I wouldn't have pulled it apart again if you hadn't prodded me.
Quoted from sullivcd40:I think this worked, couple longer games now without issue. I took apart the striker kicker and cleaned it up and reflowed solder on the pads that the wires connect to as well as the opto joints. I think one of the joints might have been cracked, they are really small so it's hard to tell. Thanks for the tip, I wouldn't have pulled it apart again if you hadn't prodded me.
Excellent. Glad to hear it and happy to help.
Considering having my game powdercoated - legs, LD bar, side rails, shooter housing, hinges etc.
Would also like to do the coin toss and habitrail as I really do not like the gold (in game or the legs) to be honest.
Looking for suggestions for colors and pics would be great. I believe I have seen black on the armor and yellow for habitrail/coin toss before and thought that was decent but still open to ideas.
TIA
Quoted from GCS2000:Considering having my game powdercoated - legs, LD bar, side rails, shooter housing, hinges etc.
Would also like to do the coin toss and habitrail as I really do not like the gold (in game or the legs) to be honest.
Looking for suggestions for colors and pics would be great. I believe I have seen black on the armor and yellow for habitrail/coin toss before and thought that was decent but still open to ideas.
TIA
if you scroll back a few one guy did yellow on pretty much everything and it looks insanely awesome!!!!!
Quoted from GCS2000:Considering having my game powdercoated - legs, LD bar, side rails, shooter housing, hinges etc.
Would also like to do the coin toss and habitrail as I really do not like the gold (in game or the legs) to be honest.
Looking for suggestions for colors and pics would be great. I believe I have seen black on the armor and yellow for habitrail/coin toss before and thought that was decent but still open to ideas.
TIA
I just did mine w/ dark purple. I'm shopping rest of game now, so more pics when done!
Quoted from theGiven:I just did mine w/ dark purple. I'm shopping rest of game now, so more pics when done!
[quoted image]
Oh wow I definitely want to see more. That looks like a good pick and different which is what I want
Also considering the habitrail and coin toss in yellow.
Something strange... when the ball is ready to lock and it starts spinning on the magnet it rolls mostly to the right instead of left in lock...
anything that can be adjusted ?
Found these on an old pinside sale post. I think the teal looks pretty good. Anyone have ideas what its called?
Also how much of a PITA is it to take out the coin toss part and habitrail to get coated?
Just to be clear this is not my game.
Quoted from GCS2000:Found these on an old pinside sale post. I think the teal looks pretty good. Anyone have ideas what its called?
FWIW, I almost bought this one but disliked the teal too much to do it. It's your pin, so do what you want, but you may also want to think about the resale side of it.
Quoted from GCS2000:Also how much of a PITA is it to take out the coin toss part and habitrail to get coated?
Habitrail is very easy. Coin toss is more involved, but is manageable.
Quoted from scootss:FWIW, I almost bought this one but disliked the teal too much to do it. It's your pin, so do what you want, but you may also want to think about the resale side of it.
Habitrail is very easy. Coin toss is more involved, but is manageable.
We just want something different. I mean black makes the most sense since it goes with everything but it almost feels like a waste and should just stick with stainless.
The wife liked the teal and really liked the yellow coin toss and habitrail someone posted not sure what color that is either though.
Lots to think about.
Quoted from GCS2000:Found these on an old pinside sale post. I think the teal looks pretty good. Anyone have ideas what its called?
Also how much of a PITA is it to take out the coin toss part and habitrail to get coated?
Just to be clear this is not my game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ha! I was going to post pics but you beat me to it. The teal machine is mine but it was done two owners before me. I think original owner commented on my first club thread post, so you might be able to ask them what the exact color is. Maybe about 3 yrs ago I bought it.
It looks even better in person!
Quoted from misterhare:Ha! I was going to post pics but you beat me to it. The teal machine is mine but it was done two owners before me. I think original owner commented on my first club thread post, so you might be able to ask them what the exact color is. Maybe about 3 yrs ago I bought it.
It looks even better in person!
Guess that means you are happy with it, lol.
Has it held up well and still fits with the game? My only odd concern with the teal is that kind of looks out of place since there is none of that color in the trim of the backbox (all black wood) nor the translite or speaker panel plastic.
Quoted from GCS2000:Guess that means you are happy with it, lol.
Has it held up well and still fits with the game? My only odd concern with the teal is that kind of looks out of place since there is none of that color in the trim of the backbox (all black wood) nor the translite or speaker panel plastic.
I love the teal being a Miami Dolphins fan but my mock ups didn't suit it, hence why I went black with yellow shooter housing, coin toss and wireform
Quoted from GCS2000:Guess that means you are happy with it, lol.
Has it held up well and still fits with the game? My only odd concern with the teal is that kind of looks out of place since there is none of that color in the trim of the backbox (all black wood) nor the translite or speaker panel plastic.
I love it and don't overthink it. When I briefly tried to sell it, people devalued it because of the teal.
Customizing is a balance between personal preference and resale. Most people want bone stock. Choose what you like and take a hit on the sale price or just leave it be.
Quoted from misterhare:I love it and don't overthink it. When I briefly tried to sell it, people devalued it because of the teal.
Customizing is a balance between personal preference and resale. Most people want bone stock. Choose what you like and take a hit on the sale price or just leave it be.
We may be going this direction. Just have to figure out the color. Need to hit up prismatic samples I guess
Quoted from allsportdvd:I love the teal being a Miami Dolphins fan but my mock ups didn't suit it, hence why I went black with yellow shooter housing, coin toss and wireform
Can you tell me what color yellow you used?
Thanks
Quoted from GCS2000:Can you tell me what color yellow you used?
Thanks
The yellow I used is called Sunflower Solid, hope that helps
Hey, I'm the proud new owner of a WCS, of course it's a great game, but they're are a couple of issues I want to take care of.
1) I want to replace the soccer ball. Looking through this topic it looks like the used to be a couple of different sources for the ball, but I've only been able to find it at Marcos. Is that where everyone is buying it these days, or is there a better option?
2) The game came with the old style Cliffy's, which come up off of the playfield a bit. I was thinking of buying the new version that doesn't have that problem, but I've never actually found a link to where to order them. Also, how big an ordeal is it to install them? Am I going up have to take all the ramps first? One of the ramps is slightly deformed that doesn't affect game play, but if I have to take them all off to install Cliffy's I might opt to replace it.
Thanks!
Quoted from duggum:Hey, I'm the proud new owner of a WCS, of course it's a great game, but they're are a couple of issues I want to take care of.
1) I want to replace the soccer ball. Looking through this topic it looks like the used to be a couple of different sources for the ball, but I've only been able to find it at Marcos. Is that where everyone is buying it these days, or is there a better option?
2) The game came with the old style Cliffy's, which come up off of the playfield a bit. I was thinking of buying the new version that doesn't have that problem, but I've never actually found a link to where to order them. Also, how big an ordeal is it to install them? Am I going up have to take all the ramps first? One of the ramps is slightly deformed that doesn't affect game play, but if I have to take them all off to install Cliffy's I might opt to replace it.
Thanks!
I got my ball several years ago from Marco and its fine
Cliffy - http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm
Ramps aren't cheap but they are out there
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/World-Cup-Soccer-2-ramp-set
What are the differences in protectors that make some come up off the playfield and others stay flat? I assume you’re talking about the front edges that need to be stuck down with the adhesive backing? I find these types don’t stay down on any of the games I’ve installed them on either.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:What are the differences in protectors that make some come up off the playfield and others stay flat? I assume you’re talking about the front edges that need to be stuck down with the adhesive backing? I find these types don’t stay down on any of the games I’ve installed them on either.
The protectors he sells now are carbon fiber and apparently don't tend to lift off of the playfield, at least that's what I've read. Maybe you all have a different experience? The old ones were regular metal (aluminum?) and they do lift up.
Quoted from GCS2000:I got my ball several years ago from Marco and its fine
Cliffy - http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm
Ramps aren't cheap but they are out there
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/World-Cup-Soccer-2-ramp-set
ebay.com link: itm
Thanks for these!I'm trying to figure out how much work it would be to replace the Cliffy's kickout protectors, if I've got to tear everything apart it might not be worth it, but if I decide that it is I may as well replace the ramps in the process.
I'll be buying that ball ASAP.
Quoted from duggum:Thanks for these!I'm trying to figure out how much work it would be to replace the Cliffy's kickout protectors, if I've got to tear everything apart it might not be worth it, but if I decide that it is I may as well replace the ramps in the process.
I'll be buying that ball ASAP.
It’s been a few years since I installed mine (carbon fiber)—they are still flat and strong. I recall the tear down was substantial. Not complete, but I think the ramps at least pulled off. Either way, if the existing protectors are bending up, you’ll want to tear down to remove them.
It’s a good way to learn how the top side is put together.
I can confirm that is is basically a full topside tear down in order put in those cliffys.
I had the older metal style and opted not to install most of them because of the pain it would be to replace them if/when they got bent. I didn’t want the carbon fiber because IMO, they distract from the art of the playfield.
I installed the one for the final draw scoop and the goal itself because they are less likely to get mangled than the saucers. On the saucers, I used some mylar which is invisible and seems to be providing good protection. chuckwurt recommended I believe.
A full topside teardown of this game is an enormous pita. Mylar it and don't look back unless you already have it apart, imo.
Quoted from sullivcd40:A full topside teardown of this game is an enormous pita. Mylar it and don't look back unless you already have it apart, imo.
Unfortunately the Cliffy's are already on the saucers and they're occasionally interfering with the ball because they're bent up from the playfield a bit, so I guess I have to decide how much it bothers me and if I want to fix it. My daughter's 8 and loves this game, so I'm probably going to keep it as is for now and fix it if/when she gets tired of it or if something else forces me to have to take the game apart. If I have to take the ramps off to get at the Cliffy's I'll probably take that opportunity to replace the ramps with shiny new ones.
Quoted from duggum:Unfortunately the Cliffy's are already on the saucers and they're occasionally interfering with the ball because they're bent up from the playfield a bit, so I guess I have to decide how much it bothers me and if I want to fix it. My daughter's 8 and loves this game, so I'm probably going to keep it as is for now and fix it if/when she gets tired of it or if something else forces me to have to take the game apart. If I have to take the ramps off to get at the Cliffy's I'll probably take that opportunity to replace the ramps with shiny new ones.
Ahh, well then I guess you've just got to go for it. If you do a full teardown just make sure you get the connectors back through the right spots. Please don't ask me what happens if you don't or how I know.
If your saucer hole protector leading edges are coming up a little, you can use a piece of Mylar to keep them down. Try a portion of a pop bumper disc as the radius is a pretty good starting point to match the saucer hole and protector. You don't need to use the entire 360 degrees worth. Just enough to stick to the protector and the playfield. Use it like a piece of Scotch tape on a cheap birthday card from the dollar store when the flap won't stay down, lol.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:If your saucer hole protector leading edges are coming up a little, you can use a piece of Mylar to keep them down.
Great idea as a first step.
Ok experts I need some help. It appears thanks to SantaEatsCheese that I may have narrowed down my WCS issue to the soccer ball motor or gearbox or what have and I need know what I should do next
When the ball motor is plugged in it causes the f116 fuse to slow blow. Meaning I can play the game but after a short time it messes up and lights don’t work game won’t start etc. Replace the fuse unplug the motor and I can play the game just fine.
Bad motor bad control board what’s next?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:If your saucer hole protector leading edges are coming up a little, you can use a piece of Mylar to keep them down. Try a portion of a pop bumper disc as the radius is a pretty good starting point to match the saucer hole and protector. You don't need to use the entire 360 degrees worth. Just enough to stick to the protector and the playfield. Use it like a piece of Scotch tape on a cheap birthday card from the dollar store when the flap won't stay down, lol.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFC
This is an awesome suggestion, I'm definitely giving it a try. Thank you!
Quoted from GCS2000:Ok experts I need some help. It appears thanks to sataneatscheese that I may have narrowed down my WCS issue to the soccer ball motor or gearbox or what have and I need know what I should do next
When the ball motor is plugged in it causes the f116 fuse to slow blow. Meaning I can play the game but after a short time it messes up and lights don’t work game won’t start etc. Replace the fuse unplug the motor and I can play the game just fine.
Bad motor bad control board what’s next?
Does it happen when the motor is plugged in, and the ball is NOT supposed to be spinning? (Like, in test mode..) If so, then it's not the motor, but the control board. If not, then yeah, the motor's drawing too much power. :/
Quoted from Coyote:Does it happen when the motor is plugged in, and the ball is NOT supposed to be spinning? (Like, in test mode..) If so, then it's not the motor, but the control board. If not, then yeah, the motor's drawing too much power. :/
Ram some tests motor plugged back in and in test mode nothing blows even when running the motor. Played a couple of games letting the motor run and nothing has blown.
Not sure what’s next. Maybe new motor and gearbox anyway just to be in the safe side
Motor does sound louder and scratchier than before but not sure it’s anything out of the norm.
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