(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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#7951 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I finally joined the club this past week. I have found 3 issues in my game that I would love some input on:
1. Is there an easy way to tighten the right flipper? The ball trough is too close to fit a ratchet.
2. My lower left GI (including coin door) is out. I tried new bulbs and reseating connectors. Where should I go next?
3. There is a hole under the extra ball button that I would like to fill and cover. Is there anywhere to buy a "COIN TOSS" decal?

The hole is for a security bar. A lot of them had one installed!

#7952 11 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Cleaned the crap out of all of it and yaaaaaaa I got magna goal!!!!

Excellent! Glad you got it working.

Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Played a few rounds and tried to use magna goal to no success ha ha ha but dang was it cool looking!!!

It won’t save a SDTM drain unless it is really slow moving but it can be helpful if you get a rogue kick out from the final draw scoop.

Quoted from Sirgubster9:

found that the batteries which are still connected (going to nvram asap)

Personally, I wouldn’t recommend nvram on this one given the chip is soldered in and the traces are thin. There is a much easier solution - since the batteries on a WPC-S are on a daughterboard, you can relocate it very easily to the side of the head. Coupled with lithium batteries, any risk of an issue is very low - I would say lower than a soldering issue installing nvram Pic below - I bought some plastic standoffs from Amazon to mount the board.

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#7953 11 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

The hole is for a security bar. A lot of them had one installed!

I'd love to get ahold of a coin toss decal. Fill the hole and cover with the decal seems like a great solution for this eyesore. Any decal makers out there want to give this a shot?

#7954 11 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

Excellent! Glad you got it working.

It won’t save a SDTM drain unless it is really slow moving but it can be helpful if you get a rogue kick out from the final draw scoop.

Personally, I wouldn’t recommend nvram on this one given the chip is soldered in and the traces are thin. There is a much easier solution - since the batteries on a WPC-S are on a daughterboard, you can relocate it very easily to the side of the head. Coupled with lithium batteries, any risk of an issue is very low - I would say lower than a soldering issue installing nvram Pic below - I bought some plastic standoffs from Amazon to mount the board. [quoted image]

Ya I tried it on a sdtm and ha ha no luck at all, and then also tried it on a few other shots that where moving pretty fast and it turned them into sdtm shots ha ha.. Definitely something I need to practice, hard to even change my hand position so I can use it but just excited to have everything working even if I never use it again outside of showing a buddy how cool it looks.

Great idea with moving the board over!!! And thanks for just saving me some cash and some soldering because I hateeee soldering. Will be now moving my battery board asap rather than getting a nvram asap.

#7955 11 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Great idea with moving the board over!!! And thanks for just saving me some cash and some soldering because I hateeee soldering. Will be now moving my battery board asap rather than getting a nvram asap.

Sounds good. Here's the feet I used to mount the board in case it helps:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2BGGSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

#7956 11 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

The hole is for a security bar. A lot of them had one installed!

Cork and a soccer ball decal, looks better than before at least.

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#7957 11 months ago

I have 2 remaining issues that I would appreciate some advice on:

1. J120 is flaky and needs replaced. A couple of the wires loop under the connector but only go into one terminal. Is it okay to use a normal molex connector for this?

2. The coin door lights are out but came on with a board swap. My guess is there is a clog somewhere between J119 (coin door GI) and it's power source J121. I circled J119 in the picture and J121 has been worked on. Should I leave it alone or try to fix it?

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#7958 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Is it okay to use a normal molex connector for this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I replace every flaky/burnt/etc. idc connector with off the shelf .156 molex connectors of the appropriate pin number. In a pinch, I have used a 5 pin and a 6 pin when I didn't have an 11 pin sitting around. Invest in a $25 crimper and never look back!

#7959 11 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

I replace every flaky/burnt/etc. idc connector with off the shelf .156 molex connectors of the appropriate pin number. In a pinch, I have used a 5 pin and a 6 pin when I didn't have an 11 pin sitting around. Invest in a $25 crimper and never look back!

Thanks, I have one of the iwiss crimpers I bought on Amazon that works really well. I've done a handful on this machine already but I was unsure about this particular connector because a couple of the wires loop under the idc connector. They don't loop to connect to a second terminal, they loop and connect back in to the same terminal. I can't see a reason why they would be any different, I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. Pinwiki talks about loops that connect to second terminals but doesn't talk about loops like these.

#7960 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Thanks, I have one of the iwiss crimpers I bought on Amazon that works really well. I've done a handful on this machine already but I was unsure about this particular connector because a couple of the wires loop under the idc connector. They don't loop to connect to a second terminal, they loop and connect back in to the same terminal. I can't see a reason why they would be any different, I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. Pinwiki talks about loops that connect to second terminals but doesn't talk about loops like these.

Never understood the point of some seemingly random double looped wires either; perhaps for redundancy in connection? Whenever I've encountered a double terminated wire coming/going to the same board side pin, I just strip the wire and crimp a pin on, and have never had a problem.

#7961 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Cork and a soccer ball decal, looks better than before at least.[quoted image]

This is kinda cool, I still wish I could just find the coin toss decal though.

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#7962 11 months ago

Found a couple of World Cup key fob's, if interested pm. $5 shipped.

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Added 11 months ago:

Thanks, they are all sold.

#7963 11 months ago

How do you clean the coin toss assembly? I couldn't figure out how to get it apart.

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#7964 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

How do you clean the coin toss assembly? I couldn't figure out how to get it apart.
[quoted image]

Take the apron and shooter lane guide off. It's held on by these two screws and one in the back. They have bolts under the playfield

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#7965 11 months ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

Take the apron and shooter lane guide off. It's held on by these two screws and one in the back. They have bolts under the playfield
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ahh, I see, thank you for that. This isn't the easiest game to take apart!

#7966 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Ahh, I see, thank you for that. This isn't the easiest game to take apart!

Holy cow, you ain't kidding! Just had mine all apart to do rings and post sleeves and put hole protectors in. All back together now and added a colour display. Love this game!

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#7967 11 months ago

I lay everything out on the glass in the general area so easy to reassemble.

Tore everything apart and placed a Titan order. It took just under a month for it to arrive (stupid usps) so wasn't fresh on my mind. Along the way my dog bumped the glass and shifted everything around. Hardest part was matching screws and bolts up from pictures. Got easier the more that went back on.

Most difficult reassemble for me since I tore apart a WOF when I was still a newb

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#7968 11 months ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

I lay everything out on the glass in the general area so easy to reassemble.

That's a great tip. Thanks.

WCS was my first shop and I got through it by putting stuff in numbered bags and then reversing when I reassembled...but that definitely would have helped!

My only mistake was two of the ball deflectors over the kick-outs were swapped. Went back to my pics...and that's how it was before I shopped it. I blame the last guy!

#7969 11 months ago

Need a little help on a WCS issue and not sure where to start diagnosing.

Game powers on and runs playfield lights come on etc. I cannot start a game (i.e. pressing the button does nothing) and I do not have anything on my DMD so I cannot see if there are errors etc. I am using a ColorDMD in the game. I have no spare DMDs (all other games are LCD) unfortunately.

The games has worked just fine for years until this recent development. Batteries were changed out probably 6 months ago and looked fine when I peaked into the head.

Not sure where to start to be honest. I see no obvious things when inside the head (is disconnected cables, burn marks etc).

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

#7970 11 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Need a little help on a WCS issue and not sure where to start diagnosing.
Game powers on and runs playfield lights come on etc. I cannot start a game (i.e. pressing the button does nothing) and I do not have anything on my DMD so I cannot see if there are errors etc. I am using a ColorDMD in the game. I have no spare DMDs (all other games are LCD) unfortunately.
The games has worked just fine for years until this recent development. Batteries were changed out probably 6 months ago and looked fine when I peaked into the head.
Not sure where to start to be honest. I see no obvious things when inside the head (is disconnected cables, burn marks etc).
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks

Start with the fuses, make sure to pull them out to test.

#7971 11 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Need a little help on a WCS issue and not sure where to start diagnosing.
Game powers on and runs playfield lights come on etc. I cannot start a game (i.e. pressing the button does nothing) and I do not have anything on my DMD so I cannot see if there are errors etc. I am using a ColorDMD in the game. I have no spare DMDs (all other games are LCD) unfortunately.
The games has worked just fine for years until this recent development. Batteries were changed out probably 6 months ago and looked fine when I peaked into the head.
Not sure where to start to be honest. I see no obvious things when inside the head (is disconnected cables, burn marks etc).
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks

Also try reseating all of your ribbons

#7972 11 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Also try reseating all of your ribbons

Did this first with no change.

Has me wondering if its board issue.

#7973 11 months ago

Does pressing the start button make any sounds? Maybe it got flipped back over to coins and not free play. Give yourself a few credits by pressing the coin switches and see if it lets you start a game.

#7974 11 months ago

Update on my game

I was able to borrow a color Dmd and video driver board from someone and my game works meaning I can play a game but I have no video at all

I put my color Dmd and video board in the other persons game and they worked fine.

Checked cables and fuses and they seem fine. Not sure where to go from here but the game does play and all features appear to work properly

#7975 11 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Update on my game
I was able to borrow a color Dmd and video driver board from someone and my game works meaning I can play a game but I have no video at all
I put my color Dmd and video board in the other persons game and they worked fine.
Checked cables and fuses and they seem fine. Not sure where to go from here but the game does play and all features appear to work properly

If you've done all the easy stuff, pinwiki says it could be a hv issue on the dmd controller board. This section gives a step by step process for diagnosing the issue:

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Display_problems

#7976 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

If you've done all the easy stuff, pinwiki says it could be a hv issue on the dmd controller board. This section gives a step by step process for diagnosing the issue:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Display_problems

Not sure this applies since I am running a color Dmd and there is only a 4 prong connector going to the display board on the back of the lcd. This voltages 5v then .06v and then 13v when going left to right n the pins of the board. I have no idea what they should be to be honest.

#7977 11 months ago

I’m pretty sure the color Dmd is getting the power it needs as I access it’s menu system and that show on the screen just fine. Just no display info from the pin itself

EDIT

I have conversed with Randy at ColorDMD great guy btw! And he has verified my power numbers at the ColorDMD are correct.

For reference here is what I tried so far.

Step 1 checked voltage at ColorDMD (numbers above and verified by ColorDMD that they are correct)

Step 2 removed ColorDMD from Whitewater (known good and working) to WCS all other items (cables controller etc) were the same WCS items as before.  No game display but LCD is getting power as I can access the menu system

Step 3 put WCS ColorDMD into Whitewater (all other parts were the Whitewater parts).  ColorDMD worked.  I noticed what appear to be interference lines pop up in the display but they were random and I only noticed them up close vs standing back.  They were not present all the time but more there during scene transitions

Step 4 put DMD controller board from Whitewater (known good) into WCS with WCS ColorDMD and no game display.

Step 5 using Whitewater DMD controller board I used the Whitewater ColorDMD (both known good in Whitewater cabinet) and no game display

In all fairness I did not try the WCS DMD controller board in Whitewater at all.

I also did not swap any cables between machines on the ColorDMDs and the Controller boards.

I will try the WCS controller board in the Whitewater when I get home and I will be sure to try it with both displays.

After that I will start swapping cables if the WCS board and DMD work fine in the Whitewater.

I have a feeling its something else in the WCS cabinet but no idea what that would be.

#7978 11 months ago

Anyone know where these two brackets go?

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#7979 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Anyone know where these two brackets go?
[quoted image]

If the L-shaped bracket it already in the spot pictured, then check the end of your left ramp.

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#7980 11 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

I’m pretty sure the color Dmd is getting the power it needs as I access it’s menu system and that show on the screen just fine. Just no display info from the pin itself
EDIT
I have conversed with Randy at ColorDMD great guy btw! And he has verified my power numbers at the ColorDMD are correct.
For reference here is what I tried so far.
Step 1 checked voltage at ColorDMD (numbers above and verified by ColorDMD that they are correct)
Step 2 removed ColorDMD from Whitewater (known good and working) to WCS all other items (cables controller etc) were the same WCS items as before.  No game display but LCD is getting power as I can access the menu system
Step 3 put WCS ColorDMD into Whitewater (all other parts were the Whitewater parts).  ColorDMD worked.  I noticed what appear to be interference lines pop up in the display but they were random and I only noticed them up close vs standing back.  They were not present all the time but more there during scene transitions
Step 4 put DMD controller board from Whitewater (known good) into WCS with WCS ColorDMD and no game display.
Step 5 using Whitewater DMD controller board I used the Whitewater ColorDMD (both known good in Whitewater cabinet) and no game display
In all fairness I did not try the WCS DMD controller board in Whitewater at all.
I also did not swap any cables between machines on the ColorDMDs and the Controller boards.
I will try the WCS controller board in the Whitewater when I get home and I will be sure to try it with both displays.
After that I will start swapping cables if the WCS board and DMD work fine in the Whitewater.
I have a feeling its something else in the WCS cabinet but no idea what that would be.

Could you post pics of your installed boards?

#7981 11 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

If the L-shaped bracket it already in the spot pictured, then check the end of your left ramp. [quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for this. I finally got my game back together after taking it completely apart and cleaning it up. I'm sure they could have made it more difficult if they really tried but I'm not sure how. Wow that was a chore. It's playing pretty well at the moment but could be better. One glaring weakness is the saucer ejects. Any tips for making these better? I'll take the apart, clean, new sleeves, new coil stops if needed, align correctly, reflow solder if needed, check connectors, etc. Are they known to need stronger coils? This is such a great game, its worthy of the time to make it play perfectly.

#7982 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Thank you for this. I finally got my game back together after taking it completely apart and cleaning it up. I'm sure they could have made it more difficult if they really tried but I'm not sure how. Wow that was a chore. It's playing pretty well at the moment but could be better. One glaring weakness is the saucer ejects. Any tips for making these better? I'll take the apart, clean, new sleeves, new coil stops if needed, align correctly, reflow solder if needed, check connectors, etc. Are they known to need stronger coils? This is such a great game, its worthy of the time to make it play perfectly.

Sleeves and springs may help. You shouldn't need new coils. Take a look at this post (along with the thread linked within it) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/158#post-7350170

#7983 10 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Sleeves and springs may help. You shouldn't need new coils. Take a look at this post (along with the thread linked within it) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/158#post-7350170

I replaced the sleeve and cleaned/aligned everything. The assist saucers now makes the penalty shot regularly but the ball rolls over the edge of the goal rather than hitting the metal net box. The tip to bend the coil bracket is just an okay one. The issue is too far of a bend will cause the plunger to get out of alignment. Going to a coil one level up in strength would be an easy way to solve this problem, although I think it could be cheating the shot a bit. I could also flatten the pitch a couple clicks, I have mine set up fairly steep at the moment. I love this stage of the shop out, getting everything dialed in and trying to figure out what the game designers intended with situations like this.

#7984 10 months ago

Curious if the game designers did intend on the assist shot to be forceful enough to hit the back of the goal hard like that? Certainly not just dribbling over the line, but not sure it is ever going to bang the back of the goal either. Would be interested in knowing how other games play and what the norm is? Maybe the norm now isn't what the norm used to be? I found my game was pretty filthy right where that linkage rotates. The bracket mounted to the underside of the playfield that is. I think over time someone had used a lube or grease of some kind and it attracted the metal dust and whatnot and got grimy. I cleaned it all off and it worked better on my game after that. Still no slamming the ball home, but it scores reliably when I hit it as well as when the game does it for you during multiball.

#7985 10 months ago

I don’t think my assist shots hit the back of the net.

#7986 10 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

I don’t think my assist shots hit the back of the net.

Nor do mine but they do not dribble over the line either. Its a nice solid shot.

#7987 10 months ago

If you want that shot to be stronger (or even airbourne) add a rubber band around the spring

#7988 10 months ago

Has anyone done the lit speaker panel mod for WCS?

If so how did it go and can you share your results?

Thanks

#7989 10 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Has anyone done the lit speaker panel mod for WCS?
If so how did it go and can you share your results?
Thanks

I was really wanting to get one of these for WCS and for my other games. However, after seeing them in person at TPF, I'm not so sure. Granted the room wasn't dark, but it didn't show up very well. I was disappointed in how they look. I think for the same money I would buy the hologram topper they had. Now that was way better in person. It was amazing.

#7990 10 months ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I was really wanting to get one of these for WCS and for my other games. However, after seeing them in person at TPF, I'm not so sure. Granted the room wasn't dark, but it didn't show up very well. I was disappointed in how they look. I think for the same money I would buy the hologram topper they had. Now that was way better in person. It was amazing.

Thanks for the info I was kinda worried about that. I have never seen them in person and since they aren't cheap it wasn't something I felt I wanted to take a chance on w/o some feedback.

The other upgrade I am considering is a pinsound board - anyone do this and if so is there video/audio of the new reorchestration?

#7991 10 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Thanks for the info I was kinda worried about that. I have never seen them in person and since they aren't cheap it wasn't something I felt I wanted to take a chance on w/o some feedback.
The other upgrade I am considering is a pinsound board - anyone do this and if so is there video/audio of the new reorchestration?

The only Pinsound board I have so far is in my STTNG. It does sound great. The bad thing these days is that if you get a Pinsound, Color DMD, and Pinstadiums or other mod, your talking $1000-$1500.

#7992 10 months ago
Quoted from jazc4:

The only Pinsound board I have so far is in my STTNG. It does sound great. The bad thing these days is that if you get a Pinsound, Color DMD, and Pinstadiums or other mod, your talking $1000-$1500.

Fortunately I already have a bunch of things on my WCS including a topper, pinduino lights, colorDMD etc.

#7993 10 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Fortunately I already have a bunch of things on my WCS including a topper, pinduino lights, colorDMD etc.

If you don't mind, post a pic. I bet it's a nice looking WCS.

#7994 10 months ago

I'd love to see pics of these guys too!!!

Side note I purchased the fun decals in here to put in my wcs and I realized I was missing this plastic piece. Anybody randomly have an extra or know someone who 3d prints em or something. Luckily it's just a clear guard so no huge big. Thanks.

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#7995 10 months ago
Quoted from jazc4:

If you don't mind, post a pic. I bet it's a nice looking WCS.

Sure thing. It comes back home tomorrow assuming it fits in my car. It was being repaired by a friend.

Btw anyone know the height of WCS when folded down. I am not sure it will fit in my Santa Fe

#7996 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

I'd love to see pics of these guys too!!!
Side note I purchased the fun decals in here to put in my wcs and I realized I was missing this plastic piece. Anybody randomly have an extra or know someone who 3d prints em or something. Luckily it's just a clear guard so no huge big. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry where does this decal come from? I've done a full restore on my WCS and think I have a spare clear plastic though it might be yellowed

#7997 10 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Sorry where does this decal come from? I've done a full restore on my WCS and think I have a spare clear plastic though it might be yellowed

Oh dude that would be awesome. The decals are sold here on pinside. It just popped up in that bottom row that shows stuff related to what your looking at, but I believe it's in the market place for this game as well. Yellowed plastic is totally fine by me, sticker should cover up most of it anyways.

#7998 10 months ago

Here are some pics of my restore, any improvements are welcomed
I have done the following
New cabinet decals (pinball decals eu)
Clearcoated and repaired playfield
New ramps
New plastics
New soccer ball
Cliffy protectors on goal and final draw
Teal star posts with post leds
World Cup trophy
Powercoated wire form, coin toss and shooter plate
Soccer ball shooter
Original topper
Custom perspex translite
Colordmd lcd
Soccer ball painted speaker cutouts
Mirror polished every metal rail
Mirror blades
Leds and Titan rubbers

Would love an apron mod as I’m not a fan of instruction cards, something similar to my Dracula would be great!

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#7999 10 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Oh dude that would be awesome. The decals are sold here on pinside. It just popped up in that bottom row that shows stuff related to what your looking at, but I believe it's in the market place for this game as well. Yellowed plastic is totally fine by me, sticker should cover up most of it anyways.

Actually better than that, looks like I have a spare brand new plastic

However, can't find the decal you showed before. I searched all WCS ads

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#8000 10 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Sure thing. It comes back home tomorrow assuming it fits in my car. It was being repaired by a friend.
Btw anyone know the height of WCS when folded down. I am not sure it will fit in my Santa Fe

Probably want to take the latch off the back. I think it’s going to be tight.

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