Winnipeg, MB
That’s a nice idea Duster 72. Care to mention which players you were thinking of? Pele, Beckenbauer, Cruyff perhaps?
(Topic ID: 50131)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
-
Oktoberfest
American Pinball, 2018
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World Cup Soccer
Bally, 1994
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Duster72:I commissioned an artist to create a topper design for me featuring some all-time great pre-94 players (I didn't really want Romario or Baggio on my topper). So far her work is exceeding my expectations. Once I get the final design I will post it here for advice on who to have manufacture it. Maybe we can get a group buy going with someone and get something really nice.
That's awesome, but you gotta have Roberto Baggio in there. Possibly even Giuseppe Signori too. Or the best player from every country at those 94 games. Just a friendly and respectful suggestion.
Quoted from Arsenal129:That’s a nice idea Duster 72. Care to mention which players you were thinking of? Pele, Beckenbauer, Cruyff perhaps?
I went with Pele, Maradona, and Gerd Muller. Beckenbauer and Cruyff were also on my list but I decided that 3 was a good number and I always feel like Gerd gets forgotten in these discussions. Since Brazil, Germany and Argentina had won 8 of the 10 World Cups before 1994 I thought those three countries should be represented. Anyway, here's the artist's rough draft. I asked her to replace the world cup logo with the tagline "Where Legends Are Made" - I thought that would tie the historic players into the concept of the game.
Quoted from Pinfidel:That's awesome, but you gotta have Roberto Baggio in there. Possibly even Giuseppe Signori too. Or the best player from every country at those 94 games. Just a friendly and respectful suggestion.
The problem is that I am a stickler for details and this pinball machine came out 4 months before the world cup. So including players that played well in the tournament makes sense in retrospect but I wanted this to look like a topper that was made when the game came out. That's why I asked her to match the art style of the playfield and cabinet as closely as possible. Also, honestly, I just thought having some of the best players of all time was more fun than players that many people today wouldn't recognize. But yes, my original idea was Baggio, Romario, and Stoichkov.
I say go back to your original players. I was obsessed with Romario back then. I don’t know why I got so into Brazil soccer, but I loved them. Probably the Pele soccer game I had on Genesis.
If you guys want a version with those three players I could ask her how much she would need to make a second version with those three guys and we could try to have both versions produced. I didn't commission this artwork to sell - just for my own personal use.
Even more reason to stick with your original then. Seems like that’s what you wanted! I’m just throwing my thoughts out there. Not interested in one.
Berlin, CT
Was passing by the game row in the basement yesterday and decided to play a quick game of WCS; noticed that the two freekick saucers were very weak, barely able to dribble the ball out (when they were strong the last time I played). The goal assist is still strong. My wife plays it frequently, so I don't think this just happened, but was more progressive. Going to take both apart later tonight and give the sleeves a good cleaning.
Before I pull the manual out, does anybody know off the top of their heads where the connectors for these two kickouts are in the backbox/underside of the playfield? I imagine these don't get crispy too often based on their in-game usage, but I figure it's worth a check/connection re-seat/ re-punch.
Quoted from Grandnational007:Was passing by the game row in the basement yesterday and decided to play a quick game of WCS; noticed that the two freekick saucers were very weak, barely able to dribble the ball out (when they were strong the last time I played). The goal assist is still strong. My wife plays it frequently, so I don't think this just happened, but was more progressive. Going to take both apart later tonight and give the sleeves a good cleaning.
Before I pull the manual out, does anybody know off the top of their heads where the connectors for these two kickouts are in the backbox/underside of the playfield? I imagine these don't get crispy too often based on their in-game usage, but I figure it's worth a check/connection re-seat/ re-punch.
Before you get too nuts, check your manual on adjusting the kick outs if they are too weak.
Quoted from Duster72:I went with Pele, Maradona, and Gerd Muller. Beckenbauer and Cruyff were also on my list but I decided that 3 was a good number and I always feel like Gerd gets forgotten in these discussions. Since Brazil, Germany and Argentina had won 8 of the 10 World Cups before 1994 I thought those three countries should be represented. Anyway, here's the artist's rough draft. I asked her to replace the world cup logo with the tagline "Where Legends Are Made" - I thought that would tie the historic players into the concept of the game.
[quoted image]
I'm guessing you caught this but thought I would mention it just in case, the word goal is misspelled on your image.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Jkubat:I'm guessing you caught this but thought I would mention it just in case, the word goal is misspelled on your image. [quoted image]
Yep, I caught it. The artist's first language is not English. 
Quoted from Duster72:Yep, I caught it. The artist's first language is not English.
I'm pretty sure it is better as 'GOOL!'
Thornton
Quoted from Grandnational007:Was passing by the game row in the basement yesterday and decided to play a quick game of WCS; noticed that the two freekick saucers were very weak, barely able to dribble the ball out (when they were strong the last time I played). The goal assist is still strong. My wife plays it frequently, so I don't think this just happened, but was more progressive. Going to take both apart later tonight and give the sleeves a good cleaning.
Before I pull the manual out, does anybody know off the top of their heads where the connectors for these two kickouts are in the backbox/underside of the playfield? I imagine these don't get crispy too often based on their in-game usage, but I figure it's worth a check/connection re-seat/ re-punch.
A couple of things to check.
Check that the eject shields are not broken. They need to have the two ramp bits that are circled in the image I've shared. When I fitted Cliffy's I had one not kicking out properly and Cliffy told me that this was my problem. I wasn't convinced and 3D printed one and low and behold, perfect. I bought a few and replaced them all as they were all broken.
and
Have a read of this short thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-weak-kickout-holes
pasted_image (resized).pngMy bottom arch kicker started getting stuck in the "kicked out" position so balls couldn't drain down the left outlane. Everything looked original and very worn on the assembly so I went ahead and ordered a new kicker, spring, coil sleeve, and rubber grommet. The new assembly seemed to work much better when testing by hand, but after a few games the assembly got stuck in the up position again. Any suggestions?
Quoted from Duster72:My bottom arch kicker started getting stuck in the "kicked out" position so balls couldn't drain down the left outlane. Everything looked original and very worn on the assembly so I went ahead and ordered a new kicker, spring, coil sleeve, and rubber grommet. The new assembly seemed to work much better when testing by hand, but after a few games the assembly got stuck in the up position again. Any suggestions?
Something mechanical is making it stick. Test with the apron off so you can get a closer look at it.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Is there supposed to be a e clip here?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I have been working on the same assembly.
The cam has a bushing and stud assembly mounted to it...[the part that is circled]
The bushing needs fine oil to spin freely, no e-clip.
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:A couple of things to check.
Check that the eject shields are not broken. They need to have the two ramp bits that are circled in the image I've shared. When I fitted Cliffy's I had one not kicking out properly and Cliffy told me that this was my problem. I wasn't convinced and 3D printed one and low and behold, perfect. I bought a few and replaced them all as they were all broken.
and
Have a read of this short thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-weak-kickout-holes
[quoted image]
That was my thread. The assist kickout issue was resolved, the other two just dribble out and down to the slings, and I've just accepted it. I'll have to take a look at the "ramp bits" more closely.
Quoted from Blackghost4:I have added decals to the game from Pinball Pimp and Mr Tantrum and it looks great.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That does look good! I like the purple effect for the kick-out holes. Did you change the plastic out underneath each of those to something other than red? Or is it just a purple bulb doing that?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:That does look good! I like the purple effect for the kick-out holes. Did you change the plastic out underneath each of those to something other than red? Or is it just a purple bulb doing that?
It came like that when I got the game.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:That does look good! I like the purple effect for the kick-out holes. Did you change the plastic out underneath each of those to something other than red? Or is it just a purple bulb doing that?
The saucer shields are typically purple in this game.
Quoted from explosiveegg:The saucer shields are typically purple in this game.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9101-18
Nice! Thanks for the link. I did not realize they were meant to be violet. And it says so right in the manual, lol. D'oh!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I need a replacement target TG-18504 but everyone is out of stock. What would be the correct alternate target if I were to print a decal for the face?
[quoted image]
Can I use this one?[quoted image]
A-18504 complete assembly consists of:
1) A-18250-6 yellow target
1a) 31-1924-5 decal
Quoted from vec-tor:A-18504 complete assembly consists of:
1) A-18250-6 yellow target
1a) 31-1924-5 decal
A-18250-6 doesn't seem to exist with the main US pinball suppliers (I just see them at PSPS in Australia). Is there an alternate part number (it looks identical to the A-14690-6 in the photos I've seen)?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:looks identical to the A-14690-6 in the photos I've seen)?
That is as close to the part you can get...
"T" bracket has #8 screw holes.
I think the OEM part is made with deferent "T" bracket alloy.
Hi there. Comet Pinball has an add on lighting kit for WCS. It includes 3 spotlights and a trough light for $37.99. Presumably they provide suggestions for where to install the spotlights. I am curious as to whether anyone has purchased this kit and what their thoughts were about the kit and the changes to the lighting of the pin. Thanks.
Quoted from Arsenal129:Hi there. Comet Pinball has an add on lighting kit for WCS. It includes 3 spotlights and a trough light for $37.99. Presumably they provide suggestions for where to install the spotlights. I am curious as to whether anyone has purchased this kit and what their thoughts were about the kit and the changes to the lighting of the pin. Thanks.
I did.
It does brighten up the game pretty well.
Though you don't necessarily need the kit, you could just buy the parts yourself. One goes on the right sling, another goes on the left ramp facing the goalie, and the third goes on the left ramp facing the left loop (I didn't like the look of this one so I left this one off).
I choose to light the posts by the slingshots, light my pop bumpers, the scoop, the trough, and put led strips on the stadium lights on the back top of the game too.
As a side note, red bendies really light up the rollover stars really well.
I've attached a before and after, though they were taken at very different times so I'm not sure if the overhead lighting was different. I also did more lighting than just the kit.
My game came to me with similar lighting mods. The star posts for the slingshots and the ring lights in the pop bumpers. I did have a trough LED strip mounted, but I removed it as I didn't like the way it glared off the DMD.
It's definitely a great game with a unique combo of colours not seen in many other titles (teal and violet primarily).
It's hard to photograph well and do it justice... like every other pinball machine as we all know!
IMG_8547 (resized).JPGIMG_8992 (resized).JPGQuoted from JediPimp:So this came up the other day on boot up. Other than changing the fuses, any ideas on what could be causing this? Just had the game serviced a few months ago and it’s been working great. [quoted image]
Put the game in switch test.
Do the Optos work?
Does the game have an Opto driver board?
If so, have you checked the filter capacitor? Capacitors to WPC games are going bad.
Check the +12 volt connectors that are located at the lower left of board. A wire could be broken.
Quoted from JediPimp:So this came up the other day on boot up. Other than changing the fuses, any ideas on what could be causing this? Just had the game serviced a few months ago and it’s been working great. [quoted image]
Check PinWiki: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Check_Fuses_F115_and_F116_Message
Quoted from JediPimp:So this came up the other day on boot up. Other than changing the fuses, any ideas on what could be causing this? Just had the game serviced a few months ago and it’s been working great.
I'm pretty sure that when I had this issue reflowing the solder on the trough opto board fixed it. Obviously, YMMV.
Quoted from vec-tor:Put the game in switch test.
Do the Optos work?
Does the game have an Opto driver board?
If so, have you checked the filter capacitor? Capacitors to WPC games are going bad.
Check the +12 volt connectors that are located at the lower left of board. A wire could be broken.
Where would the opto driver board be? On the main wpc power board? Or maybe the trough opto board?
Quoted from JediPimp:Where would the opto driver board be? On the main wpc power board? Or maybe the trough opto board?
Quoted from JediPimp:Thanks guys. Checked the opto board and connections. Changing Fuse 116 seems to fix it for now. It was an old fuse so I hope that was the problem. Will keep eyes peeled to see if any further problems arise.
Was the fuse blown?
Do you know if the capacitors on the driver board are original or not?
Quoted from doublestack:Was the fuse blown?
Do you know if the capacitors on the driver board are original or not?
The fuse was blown yes a very small crack in the wire wrap. The caps looked alright on the driver board. Will wait to see if the fuse blows again and investigate from there.
Don’t know if the caps were original or not.
Just curious where you guys have the flippers set at (as far as angle). Right at the playfield pinhole? Above slightly? Mine are set slightly below and I'm finding it's difficult to cradle the ball from either flipper.
Quoted from Norcalpin:Just curious where you guys have the flippers set at (as far as angle). Right at the playfield pinhole? Above slightly? Mine are set slightly below and I'm finding it's difficult to cradle the ball from either flipper.
If you have new flipper plunger and links, please make note of the length.
Williams plunger and links are slightly shorter than what Stern put out.
Marco was selling Stern plunger and link assemblies as compatible to Williams
but they are not.
With Stern flipper links the Williams flippers would not have the pitch to stop the ball/balls.
Quoted from vec-tor:If you have new flipper plunger and links, please make note of the length.
Williams plunger and links are slightly shorter than what Stern put out.
Marco was selling Stern plunger and link assemblies as compatible to Williams
but they are not.
With Stern flipper links the Williams flippers would not have the pitch to stop the ball/balls.
Could someone share the dimensions or photos of these? I'd like to see how those compare to the ones in my own games.
Quoted from beltking:Anyone plan to sell their wcs around NE Ohio or reasonable drive from canton Ohio?
No one in their right mind! 
One of the best games ever 
Could someone enlighten me as to where this plastic goes?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925A-3
It's a clear piece and meant as a protector presumably. The arc is basically exactly the shape as the spinning soccer ball. I just can't figure out where or how it goes in the game.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone enlighten me as to where this plastic goes?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925A-3
It's a clear piece and meant as a protector presumably. The arc is basically exactly the shape as the spinning soccer ball. I just can't figure out where or how it goes in the game.
No where, basically.
Quoted from Kevlar51:No where, basically.
Like gets included in the set, but doesn't actually get used anywhere?
Nice, lol. There's one just like that for Funhouse.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Like gets included in the set, but doesn't actually get used anywhere?
Nice, lol. There's one just like that for Funhouse.
Exactly. It's been a constant source of confusion here.
Quoted from Norcalpin:Just curious where you guys have the flippers set at (as far as angle). Right at the playfield
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone share the dimensions or photos of these? I'd like to see how those compare to the ones in my own games.
I found pictures of both the Williams and Stern plunger link assemblies on Pinball Resource.
This first picture is the Williams part: http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/wll-a10656+.jpg
This picture is for the Stern part: http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/de-515-630403.jpg
Here are pix of the plunger & link assembly.
OEM NOS Williams assembly is on the right and on the top respectively.
OEM Stern had a flat column down the plunger shaft... The reproduction
part does not. Which leads to confusion... Stern put a bulletin out about
converting back to a Williams standard length...
IMG_0001[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0002[1] (resized).JPG
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