(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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There are 8,491 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 170.
#7501 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Kevlar51 I bet you’re missing the white spacer. This could lead to binding and ramp damage. [quoted image][quoted image]

Yikes--you're right. Thanks!

EDIT: Nevermind--I have the white spacer. Not sure why it's not flush at the bottom.

#7502 1 year ago

Thank you guys!

Ok... so my topside is correct. I'm missing the larger spring and c-clip on the bottom (I'm assuming that's a standard flipper return spring?). The little spring is really stretched out, so I'll need to replace that.

#7503 1 year ago

Not sure on the spring type. Sorry.

#7504 1 year ago

I recently rebuilt my diverter mech, and when assembling it I found that it bound until everything was in the right place below the playfield. One recommendation for the smoothest mechanical action - orient the connecting spring between the plunger and diverter bracket like this:

Screen Shot 2022-06-16 at 9.50.16 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-06-16 at 9.50.16 AM (resized).png

rather than this:

Screen Shot 2022-06-16 at 9.50.03 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-06-16 at 9.50.03 AM (resized).png

#7505 1 year ago

As I'm waiting for the parts order that has been sitting in my local Fed Ex since Friday but won't be delivered until Tuesday, I'm taking care of as many issues as I can.

I currently have no flashers. Not in play, not in test mode, nothing. In looking to see if I had disconnected something on the PPB, I see that the connector at J106 has a single wire going to it. There's nothing at all connected to J108.

Can anyone confirm for me if this is correct or not?

12v (resized).jpg12v (resized).jpg
#7506 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

As I'm waiting for the parts order that has been sitting in my local Fed Ex since Friday but won't be delivered until Tuesday, I'm taking care of as many issues as I can.
I currently have no flashers. Not in play, not in test mode, nothing. In looking to see if I had disconnected something on the PPB, I see that the connector at J106 has a single wire going to it. There's nothing at all connected to J108.
Can anyone confirm for me if this is correct or not?
[quoted image]

This is correct.

Check your interlock switch next to the coin door and make sure none of the wires have fallen off. That will stop the flashers from working.

#7507 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

This is correct.
Check your interlock switch next to the coin door and make sure none of the wires have fallen off. That will stop the flashers from working.

Wires on the interlock switch are good. I cleaned each of the connecting blades on the switch and no change. Maybe the switch itself has gone bad... but if any of you guys have ideas for other things to check, I'm open to it.

Both of the 12v test points on the PPB are giving correct voltages (11.99 and 12.15 respectively).

#7508 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Wires on the interlock switch are good. I cleaned each of the connecting blades on the switch and no change. Maybe the switch itself has gone bad... but if any of you guys have ideas for other things to check, I'm open to it.
Both of the 12v test points on the PPB are giving correct voltages (11.99 and 12.15 respectively).

Check that you have 20V at J106-5 and J107-6.

#7510 1 year ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Check that you have 20V at J106-5 and J107-6.

Thanks. I will do so when I get home this evening and report back.

Fuses are good. They were checked in situ, and then removed and checked again outside of the machine.

#7511 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Thanks. I will do so when I get home this evening and report back.

Fuses are good. They were checked in situ, and then removed and checked again outside of the machine.

Might seem silly, dunno how long you've had the game etc but have you confirmed that your flasher bulbs are good? I bought my WCS off route and all the flashers needed to be replaced even though most of the insert/GI was working.

#7512 1 year ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Check that you have 20V at J106-5 and J107-6.

I can confirm that I have 20 V at both J106-5 and J107-6

Quoted from frisbez:

Might seem silly, dunno how long you've had the game etc but have you confirmed that your flasher bulbs are good? I bought my WCS off route and all the flashers needed to be replaced even though most of the insert/GI was working.

I swapped them all out for new flashers, and tested the sockets with a bench rig-- they all light up, so the sockets and bulbs are good.

Now... tonight I noticed a new problem... the buttons on the coin door are now unresponsive. I can't make any adjustments, and the coin switches are not working. I'm wondering if it's all tied together with the idea that Kevlar51 suggested-- that the coin door interlock switch is bad. I pulled the connectors and cleaned them last night. I tested voltage on the individual wires connected to that switch... I have 35v at 2 of the terminals, 10v at 2 of the terminals, and no measurable voltage at the other two. When I test from the connector on the board to the coin door that says "power in" (or similar) I have 10.6 at 1 wire, no voltage at the others. Puzzling.

#7513 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I can confirm that I have 20 V at both J106-5 and J107-6

If those two wires control all of the flashers, I'd also be game to remove the zip ties and follow those wires all the way down to wherever they terminate.

#7514 1 year ago

Giving this a bump in the hopes that the day crowd has some ideas for me.

#7515 1 year ago

Sure is colourful WCS. Finally had the time to strip the topside, tumble the hardware, install new ramps, plastics, Titans, Soccer Ball etc. Not long to go.

IMG_1881 (resized).jpgIMG_1881 (resized).jpg
#7516 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Giving this a bump in the hopes that the day crowd has some ideas for me.

I would start a dedicated tech thread to get more eyes on your issue.

#7517 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I would start a dedicated tech thread to get more eyes on your issue.

I did. Only one person has responded so far.

#7518 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I did. Only one person has responded so far.

Keep bumping that and try pinball repair group on FB too.

#7519 1 year ago

Just help find a WCS for my stepbrother, installed it but playfield inserts not working, nor jackpot lights, etc. Game is super fun all the same!!!

But without reading 151 pages of posts , can someone point me to an obvious fix? I'm thinking some badly seated rom or something that came loose during shipping, tks!

Added 21 months ago:

Fixed! The usual culprits were cables that needed to be reseated - thou, for one of the cable it was by not apparent at all! Ended up checking continuity on all fuses. Great game, looks and plays fantastic!

#7520 1 year ago

Just installed my color DMD and noticed that I had the end of a broken wire at the grounding point...but couldn't find the end of what it was going to. (It was connected to the grounding point under the nut before I removed it)

Does anyone else have this at the grounding point? If so...what does it connect to?

thanks!

IMG_4220 (resized).jpegIMG_4220 (resized).jpeg

#7521 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

Just installed my color DMD and noticed that I had the end of a broken wire at the grounding point...but couldn't find the end of what it was going to. (It was connected to the grounding point under the nut before I removed it)
Does anyone else have this at the grounding point? If so...what does it connect to?
thanks!
[quoted image]

That grounding lug at the bottom of the head is not supposed to be bent over like that. So I suspect that the ground lead that runs from the cab to the head was connected to that and it got yanked hard. Look inside the back of the cab for a bright green wire to ground.

I suspect someone dropped the head and the ground wire got hung up on something in the cab, thus it wrenched the lug and pulled the eye crimp off the end of the wire.

Just popped open my WCS and took a better look at your pic and I don't see anything amiss. I think I see the cab ground wire (which is a braid) hiding in the background in your image. So you're ok with ground.

The lug is still bent from a nasty yank but I bet it's from someone pulling out the display panel without paying attention. They pulled the eye off the end of the green/yellow wire going to the speaker. Note that the eye on the lug end is different, and the extra lug matches the factory one attached to the speaker. I suspect when they put the new one on they just left the old one on the stud.

#7522 1 year ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Note that the eye on the lug end is different, and the extra lug matches the factory one attached to the speaker. I suspect when they put the new one on they just left the old one on the stud.

Thank you! I think you nailed it. It was definitely suspicious that the speaker grounding wire had a U shaped connector on it rather than a circular connector. I guess I should be grateful that they grounded it at all

1 week later
#7523 1 year ago

9+ years after initially wanting to join the club, I’m finally in!

What a great, great game that I’m really happy to have in my collection.

#7524 1 year ago
Quoted from Fatsquatch:

9+ years after initially wanting to join the club, I’m finally in!
What a great, great game that I’m really happy to have in my collection.

Congrats!
Not known for its depth but for pure fun
I would certainly agree with you, it is a great game!
Enjoy

#7525 1 year ago

After 10 years of leaving the club, I’m back!
A936ADA5-8588-4007-80DC-96028C7F1F01 (resized).jpegA936ADA5-8588-4007-80DC-96028C7F1F01 (resized).jpeg

#7526 1 year ago

I don't think my diverter is working correctly (though it works in test mode). Can anybody tell me the sequence of switches that are supposed to activate it?

Edit.... Coil is working. WHat's not working is the return to the neutral condition when the coil releases. There doesn't appear to have a spot for a return spring.

#7527 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I don't think my diverter is working correctly (though it works in test mode). Can anybody tell me the sequence of switches that are supposed to activate it?
Edit.... Coil is working. WHat's not working is the return to the neutral condition when the coil releases. There doesn't appear to have a spot for a return spring.

Need to make sure the weird small stiff spring down on the mech is positioned right so that it allows the diverter to return to the home position.

#7528 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Need to make sure the weird small stiff spring down on the mech is positioned right so that it allows the diverter to return to the home position.

A pic from my archive in case it helps...

IMG_3669 (resized).jpegIMG_3669 (resized).jpeg
#7529 1 year ago

You missing your spacer on the top of the ramp? Your diverter arm should be flush with the park I believe.

My mech worked perfectly and this is what it looked like:

F339E393-2F80-4B1D-8784-C556DF171B6D (resized).jpegF339E393-2F80-4B1D-8784-C556DF171B6D (resized).jpeg

#7530 1 year ago

Fixed! The return spring had been replaced out for one that was too short and not providing enough thrust to return the diverter to its neutral position. I never gave it a thought when I was replacing coil sleeves and cleaning things, assuming it was correct. I swapped in a pop bumper return spring, and it's working fine now.

1 week later
#7531 1 year ago

Ok guys... I'm not sure how well you'll be able to see this, but I am occasionally get a stuck ball at the top of the lower level ramp where the first clear post is. I have tried it both with and without rubber on the post, and it still happens. It can't be shook loose-- have to pull the glass and raise the playfield to get the ball to clear the post. Doesn't happen all the time-- just occasionally. Anybody else have this problem of see something installed incorrectly in my photo?

wcs (resized).jpgwcs (resized).jpg
#7532 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Ok guys... I'm not sure how well you'll be able to see this, but I am occasionally get a stuck ball at the top of the lower level ramp where the first clear post is. I have tried it both with and without rubber on the post, and it still happens. It can't be shook loose-- have to pull the glass and raise the playfield to get the ball to clear the post. Doesn't happen all the time-- just occasionally. Anybody else have this problem of see something installed incorrectly in my photo?
[quoted image]

I’ve never had this issue. All of my clear posts there have rubber on them though. Did you use the correct size? Should be 7/16"
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#7533 1 year ago

Yes, 7/16 is what I had on there... ball got stuck with that, so I assumed it was wrong and removed the rubber... but the problem didn't go away. I may try stacking 2 rubbers on that post and see if that helps. It's a real PITA to get to... have to remove the upper ramp (again!).

#7534 1 year ago

My problem with the post rubber on the lower ramp has been fixed... but I still don't understand why it was happening. I shaved a 7/16 post rubber with the dremel until it was just barely larger than the post itself. Played a dozen games, and didn't get the ball stuck. Calling it resolved for now.

#7535 1 year ago

And I may have spoken too soon-- got stuck there again. I kinda wonder if the top of the ball may be dragging on the bottom of the upper ramp in that corner-- the ball always seems to slow down there, but is fine when it makes it past that spot.

#7536 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

And I may have spoken too soon-- got stuck there again. I kinda wonder if the top of the ball may be dragging on the bottom of the upper ramp in that corner-- the ball always seems to slow down there, but is fine when it makes it past that spot.

Can you post a pic of the stuck ball?

#7537 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Can you post a pic of the stuck ball?

See post 7531 (about 5 posts up). The only difference between that photo and now is the reinstallation of rubber on the clear post.

#7538 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

See post 7531 (about 5 posts up). The only difference between that photo and now is the reinstallation of rubber on the clear post.

Ugh. I stared at that pic forever and couldn’t see a ball. Just thought it was reflections. I was right about reflections… but they were on a ball.

#7539 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

I’ve never had this issue. All of my clear posts there have rubber on them though. Did you use the correct size? Should be 7/16"

Same here. Never had an issue...but honestly, my ball never heads towards or down those two holes.

drsfmd - Can you post another pic with more light? I can see the ball in the pic but can't seem to see what it is stuck on/between.

#7540 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

Same here. Never had an issue...but honestly, my ball never heads towards or down those two holes.
drsfmd - Can you post another pic with more light? I can see the ball in the pic but can't seem to see what it is stuck on/between.

It's stuck between the end of the ramp and the first post... but like I said a couple of posts up, it might be dragging on the bottom of the upper ramp. I'm going to put a thin spacer at the back of the ramp to raise it 1/16 or so and see if that helps.

I'll take another photo when it gets stuck again.

#7541 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

it might be dragging on the bottom of the upper ramp

This seems most likely...but I wonder if there is something else that is off? Misaligned ramp? Wrong post? etc.

#7542 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

This seems most likely...but I wonder if there is something else that is off? Misaligned ramp? Wrong post? etc.

It's possible. Lots of stuff was wrong when I got this game. I studied photos online for hours to try to make sure everything ended up in the right place.

#7543 1 year ago

Can you post some pics with room lights on and the game off? Might help.

#7544 1 year ago

I came up with a solution. It’s not pretty, but it’s not visible once the upper ramp is back in position.

A9771208-1049-4872-8E49-8E77B7E37399 (resized).jpegA9771208-1049-4872-8E49-8E77B7E37399 (resized).jpeg
#7545 1 year ago

Is there a ball save feature during multiball? I know it's a manual feed, but wondering if the time can be increased if at all.

#7546 1 year ago

no ball save, but if u don't hit a jackpot it gives u the restart multi=ball with 2 ball again in a certain amount of time.

#7547 1 year ago
Quoted from thc666:

no ball save, but if u don't hit a jackpot it gives u the restart multi=ball with 2 ball again in a certain amount of time.

Got it.

#7548 1 year ago

Howdy Everyone,

After a long time searching I finally found a WCS for a friend of mine. I am about to start the tear down process, I have done plenty of machines before, but figured I would ask here to see if there is anything I should be aware of/cautious with? I don't have a ton of familiarity with this game so I figured asking the experts made sense.

#7549 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Howdy Everyone,
After a long time searching I finally found a WCS for a friend of mine. I am about to start the tear down process, I have done plenty of machines before, but figured I would ask here to see if there is anything I should be aware of/cautious with? I don't have a ton of familiarity with this game so I figured asking the experts made sense.

I don't know if I'm "the expert" or not, but I just did a complete topside teardown on mine.

Take a LOT of photos as you go. This is a tough machine to tear down (Demo Man is the only one I've done that was harder). There are screw on spacers on top of posts, different types of posts in locations that don't make obvious sense, etc. I ended up having to remove the top level ramp, the mini playfield, and a bunch of other stuff a second time to fix things that were incorrect the first time...

#7550 1 year ago

I have a bunch of pics from mine, and I'm sure others do also if you get into a bind.

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