Just replace it/re-pin it with a correctly spaced/sized molex connector. Molex all of the things!

I picked a bag up of various 4-13 pin sized connectors with a bunch of new crimp on pins for $12 at a local electronics store, and it has paid for itself many times over.

So, about that first question...?

Haha, sorry about that. It "could" be replaced with a .156 molex style connector with the correct number of corresponding pins on it. Or replace it with a new IDC connector (which you have now).

I'd do an 8 pin and a 3 pin, and use something to block the key if you can't find a 12 pin.

Did you ever figure where it goes... I'm stumped.

It goes nowhere. Just an extra erroneous plastic.

So any .156 plastic molex style or IDC connector with the same number of pins would work? I've always assumed there are many "13 pin connectors" out there. If they're all the same then I've been overthinking this.

.156 and number of pins is all you need to worry about.

I prefer "lock socket" style (they have a little lip/locking tab molded into the connector itself) as they will never wiggle free.

Selling new WCS94 ramps with decals.

ebay.com link: itm

I was having trouble with my goalie getting hung up on the top “crossbar” of the goal. There was a bit of slop in the mech due to the cams being hogged out. So I replaced all the parts of the goalie…and I’m still getting hang ups.

I think it is because the trough is dented and is causing the goalie to move forward and back while it moves left to right. It is “bumping” over that dent which causes the top of the goalie to get caught on the crossbar.

How should I flatten that edge of the trough to remove the dent?

171A1764-07B0-4C68-9702-B6BADBC4A46B (resized).jpeg

D14D20E8-630A-4329-8794-884C62C26429 (resized).jpeg

File?

Yeah…I was thinking a rotary grinding stone on the dremel

The dremel cleaned it up quite nicely...but...the issue still persists. More troubleshooting required...

I’m VERY excited to be picking up a WCS in the coming days! I really enjoyed playing it before I was into pinball, and a few times since I got the bug.

My son will be starting soccer in the fall, and I’m curious: does anyone else feel compelled to have a party for a soccer team you’re connected with simply because you own this machine?

What's wrong with this picture...?

I am still struggling with my goalie getting stuck under the crossbar of the goal. Usually it is the top of the metal bracket that the screws go into that gets caught. Occasionally it is the screws themselves.

Basically, the goalie moves fine left and right and if it gets hit by a ball while it is in the center, it gets wedged under the crossbar.

I've replaced the bracket that goes on the motor and the two long pieces that have cams on them. I've filed down the trough so it is nice and flat.

Does anything look amiss in these pictures? Would someone mind removing their goalie and sending a few pics?

thanks!

IMG_3583 (resized).jpeg

IMG_3876 (resized).jpeg

IMG_3879 (resized).jpeg

IMG_3881 (resized).jpeg

Hi guys,

Ive got an issue when I power on the machine (even when its booting) the ball automatically spins, has anyone one else had this issue?

I got the machine with a dead motor and I replaced it with a new one

That's what mine does too but the duration of the spinning seems to vary. Sometimes it seems like minutes before it stops.

I tried the motor controller board in my TZ and it spun the clock constantly....and the TZ board in the WCS94 which seem to be fine.

So my board has a short somewhere, has anyone had to fix these? Im thinking it could be the L6203 brushed motor driver IC??

It appears that your goalie is closer to the net than mine. It's difficult to tell for sure in your pic but the location of the upward bend is proud of the white line on my game. Thus the goalie is positioned further away from the net structure.

I'm not sure why your setup would end up being closer than mine as the bends in the support seem similar and correct.

pasted_image (resized).png

Thank you very much. Adjusting (bending) the goalie bracket is on my mind. I've hesitated so far because I had the issue with both the old and new brackets.

...and as I typed this I realized that the other thing that has an impact on the positioning is the spring. Which I didn't change. It would make sense that a worn out spring would cause the goalie to be looser and possibly closer to the goal.

New spring on the way...I'll report back...

Well, my WCS seems to have presented to me a giant middle finger.

I'm getting the "Opto Trough Bad Check Connectors, Wires, and 12V Supply" message. Here are the other symptoms:
-Trough will spit balls out randomly anytime it's powered up. I repinned a flakey connector, which helped the "jiggle a wire and make it trigger" issue
-C11 cap is domed, which I assume means it's gone bad
-I have a corroded chip (see pics)
-I get a U6 Chksum error on occasion
-All my voltage test points are way off:
-TP1 should be 12v, is 28v
-TP2 5v is 10.5v
-TP3 12V is 26V
-TP4 is .8v (should this have voltage? I don't see a default printed)
-TP6 50v is 154v(!)
-TP7 20v is 44v

Any advice? I'm guessing replacing that cap would be the start, but this type of troubleshooting is a hair beyond what I'm used to.

IMG_20220527_154840 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220527_160025 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220527_160034 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220527_162221 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220527_165512 (resized).jpg

I have read most of the post here and have got so much help by just reading. So thanks. I still have a very annoying error that I can not get rid of. I want to do another try again. I get the error "Check ramp diverter" The diverter work fine during gameplay and in test all switches works fine as well. At least I think it works during gameplay as it plays well and as I expect it to.

What are the name of the switches involved of generating the error? Is it the 3 switches in the ramps?
Would it make sense to replace them even if they work in test? Maybe the ball is to fast in gameplay?

Hi do i miss a part at the hole ? I just have a screw there .. no metal piece that directs the ball to the hole

1FC862B9-F466-439F-9B9F-D3256B54E3DB (resized).jpegB1D23D88-4344-4E71-A30B-EDFEC4061682 (resized).jpeg

Before I go into the wpc reset checklist, has anyone else had an issue where the game will reset every time as soon as ball 1 drains and the bonus animations start?
I was upstairs a few weeks ago and heard my powered up WCS94 doing the test bong every ~20 seconds. Got downstairs to turn it off, and when turned back on I could hear the soft hum of the speaker panel but no lights/no nothing.
Left it alone for a week before trying to turn it on again and to my surprise it worked fine up until the first ball drains. I can see maybe a frame or two of the bonus animation and it will reset immediately.

I have made better pictures of that hole… is there a deflector normally ? I just have one screw there and i think its not the original one…. Can someone please confirm ?

6AB56AFA-069D-4643-80D1-BF405389B0E9 (resized).jpeg72F4418A-F25B-4622-894F-88D156E17CAB (resized).jpegE47C920A-68D2-4FFF-83A0-A796DE4B6826 (resized).jpeg

Yeah that’s not the right screw. It’s way too long. Is the ball hitting it? I’m not sure what the correct screw dimensions are, but they should not be hitting the ball. I’ve attached some of my pics.

42B6A7FE-00E6-442E-ABB4-07C2D098B791 (resized).jpeg

EFA93984-3F9C-46DC-9F87-A5E4D33DCF1A (resized).jpeg

Yes its hitting the screw and then falls down. Do you have a deflector in your hole that directs the ball to the bottom ?

Is that the part i am missing there ?

https://pinball-parts.shop/kategoriesuche/spielfeldteile/halter/20463/ball-deflector-wcs94

That piece should have two machine screws holding the wire form to the metal bracket. I believe it has nuts welded to the underside to hold the screws. I have one of the nuts missing so I’m assuming it’s pretty common for them to fall off. Mines currently held by one screw and doesn’t seem to be an issue.

Those deflectors go behind the kickout saucers. I don’t think you’re missing anything by striker’s hideout. You just need shorter screws.

Now i understand … thanks a lot. I will remove that huge screw

WORLD CUP SOCCER (BALLY) BALL GUIDE
#A-18028-1, WMS Ball Guide is the part that goes in there. Marcos had it in stock. It has the nuts in it. I bought my machine with long screws and a broken nut. Someone had put a post inside the ball guide to stop the screws from traping in the ball. I removed the post and got some shorter 3/8" screws at the hardware store. I put a couple of washers on top to keep the screws from going much past the nuts. It seems to work fine now. But if find the exact screw size, let me know. (I say seems to because my left ramp entry switch is going to ground. I need to figure that out then play it more to be sure.)

Bump, please.

I haven't seen this; probably best to visit pinwiki (not sure if that's what you meant by reset checklist): https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

I would send your power supply board off to a pro to be rebuilt. Then rebuild all the associated connectors going from the PS to the MPU.

Yes, that's what I meant. Before I started working on that list I just wanted to check if it was a known malfunction. Thanks guys

Has anyone installed GI OCD and/or LED OCD on this pin? Does it make a big difference?

I have both installed and I love it. Lighting adds a lot of atmosphere—best example is the lights fade to dark when the ball’s sitting in the assist kickout. Adds suspense

This seems like a problem that you could debug with the glass off pretty easily. At least determine what the main issue is. Resets that occur with a coil activation can be caused by a bad diode.

What coils get activated when a ball drains?

Ok, so I went back and re-read your description and apparently read right over the "2 frames" and went straight to after bonus animation in my head. In which case would be the trough kickout.

This is something that should be easy to pull the glass and see exactly what causes the issue. Can you start a game, pull the ball from the shooter lane and drop it in the outhole and have it reset? Or do you have to get past the ball in play timer before so it's definitely related to bonus counting?

Have you tried just running all the Sound tests? I had a WH2o that would reboot during games and it turned out it was a ribbon cable between the CPU and Sound boards.

Yes, it's right after the ball drains and at the start of the bonus animations; well before the next ball will be plunged into the lane. When I get home I will try your recommendations. Thank you

So I just did a trade and ended up with a WCS. It's literally the dirtiest game I've ever acquired that wasn't also full of mouse remnants... but I think it's going to clean up nicely.

Can anyone send me a photo of the underside of the diverter assembly? It looks kinda janky and I'm sure it's a field repair, but I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like or what I'm missing.

wcs (resized).jpg

That's some grade A number 1 filth there! I bet that will be extremely satisfying to clean up. We need a time lapse movie!

This game is awesome! Without meaning to offend anyone, is it likely a company will one day issue a remake of this table? With there only being a finite number of tables out there it would be great for more people to get the chance to own one. I know Chicago Gaming are having success with their remakes, is this wishful thinking?

I wouldn't count on it. CGC is really the only company coming out with remakes, and they've done four, with a focus primarily on top rated/top earners. Plus there's the added issue/cost with obtaining a license from FIFA. When WCS was released on The Pinball Arcade, it was World Champion Soccer, and changes were made to avoid IP infringement.

I can't see WCS being high on the priority list for a remake. I personally feel that it's spot on the top 100 is criminally out of place, but the theme (cartoony/soccer) is a turnoff for a lot of people, even if they do enjoy the gameplay.

To clarify a bit... I have the image from the manual. I'm unclear on what it actually looks like assembled on the underside. Mine almost certainly isn't assembled correctly, and I'm going to need to order some parts.

Wishful thinking. This game is not valuable enough to warrant a 8-10k remake. The other remakes worked because they were in high demand and carried big bucks.

Your assembly should look like this top and bottom. Make sure it has the white spacer up top the playfield and the diverter arm sits flush with the crank below the playfield.

Kevlar51 I bet you’re missing the white spacer. This could lead to binding and ramp damage.

2A3C8C83-76F1-49B0-926D-0D0954308A24 (resized).jpeg

8C6EED6F-55FB-4BBE-9A53-7C810ADFBAF5 (resized).jpeg