Doesn’t help either that most wireforms attach on top of the plastic. I think this is the only game I’ve seen where it goes underneath.

Those new yellow Titan rubbers really match with the yellow on the playfield.

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My diverter is touching the ramp. How is the diverter shaft supposed to be supported? What is holding it up other than the plunger arm? Looking at the schematics it looks like the shaft is drawn the wrong way around.

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Those speaker grills look great. I’m still looking for the best and easiest way to make that happen. I’m surprised no one has made a vinyl cling for sale.

You’re probably missing the plastic spacer that goes on top of the ramp where the diverter arm comes through. Your below the playfield setup shows the diverter arm coming through way too much. Should be flush with the crank.

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Looks like they missed that spacer in the diagram.

Thanks chuckwurt. Yes I’m missing the spacer.

Are replacement decals for the 5 circular skill inserts on the soccer ball something that exists? I see the whole set from pinball center but it looks like the soccer ball is just one giant decal on that set?

Happy to buy from someone here who bought a set, didn’t need these and wants to recoup some of their cost

I have seen lots of positive comments about the brite mods rings for pop bumpers on this game.

Two questions...

What color lights to get? Cool white? warm white? blue??

What model to get?
Brite Rings? (https://www.pinballlife.com/briterings-pop-bumper-lighting.html)
Brite Caps? (https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html)

thanks!

I'm trying to remember but I think I did Comet Rings with Teal/White. I might be able to find a photo and post it later.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-rings?variant=29411774300262

Finally in the club… excited to be here!

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Hi, im also a proud new owner of one. Is it possible to get a better grip on the old ball so it shoots the pinball around better ? I have that old ball in my cabinet. maybe there is a spray out there who makes the rubber more sticky ?

Greets

Best to get a new rubber ball and keep it clean.

When you put the new ball on it is crazy how much more action it creates. Chuckwurt is correct, best to just buy a new one.

Ok … i will do

Need some tech help. I think I know the direction I'm going but would like confirmation/advice. My trough coil softly fires:
-Randomly with nothing going on nearby
-If I repeatedly activate the flippers
-If my METALLICA (!) does a ball search next to it
-Almost always if only there's one or more balls in the trough.

If I lightly jiggle the harness that I'm pointing to in the picture, several trough/ball switches trigger. My diagnosis: There's a bad connection where I'm pointing that with the slightest vibration is triggering the trough coil (although that doesn't explain why it rarely happens when the trough is empty). I think I need to repin that connection, which I've never done before. Any tips on the pin size or recommendations on equipment to buy?

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.156 pins and connector. Here’s a video on how to crimp and replace pins and use a molex connector instead of the idc connector that is currently in your game.

The translite on my game is very flimsy, like they used the thinnest plexiglass available. I'm assuming this was a cost cutting after market change but figured I'd ask other owners to see their experience. There's a lot of wiggle room in the backglass channel. If anyone has changed the translite glass, what material and thickness did you use? thanks

Sold my WCS94. If your looking for a mini-playfield replacement or a spare. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/134364

Hello Guys

juts want to share with you my custom rework of the design of the World Cup Soccer 94 !
Hope you will enjoy it

regards

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Finally ready to play after 3 months of work.

New ramps, new plastics, new Titan rubbers, new lockbar and siderails, new coindoor, new colordmd

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looking good. I'm just awaiting some cliffys before I put mine back together.

...so...ah, what's new?

Looking great! Are those brass wireforms or did you chrome plate them?

Chrome on wireform ramp and coin toss assembly

Cool, thanks. I tried to get my wireforms and coin toss brass plated locally and both places wouldn't touch them due the required clear coat after plating to prevent tarnishing. I had them powder coated but am not super thrilled with the look and feel. The chrome looks great and I may pursue that. WCS may be the game that I try my first full restore on, it is the only game that I've owned twice.

You can check out these guys for brass plating:
https://pinballplating.com/

Yeah, thanks. My first attempt was to go to Chris at Pinball Plating. I had contacted him some time back and was told that I was on a list for exchange. I waited a few months and when I followed up on being on the list for "in stock ready to swap" Baywatch wireforms I was told that they could maybe make it into the next batch if I got them out pronto. I pulled everything out of both games, packed it all up, then found out it was going to be like $350 to ship in time. I pulled the plug on that and went looking locally. Pinball Plating was backed up months, so long that Chris couldn't even give me an estimate of when they would be ready for them again. Great problem to have but didn't work for me!

duplicate

Some goalie help please...

My goalie started getting hung up on the goal. Specifically, the screw from the switch was getting caught under the "crossbar" of the goal.

I took the mech apart and there is a ton if slop in it...and it just looks wrong to me. Can anyone identify what is off with this? I can't believe that it should be at such an extreme angle. It also looks like it has been rubbing on the optos.

Looks like all the parts are correct according to the manual except that I have an extra flat washer (two stacked together, circled in red).

I'm going to clean and reassemble, but any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks.

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I'd have to stuff my head inside my game to be sure (can't do that at the moment) but that pin/shaft looks bent. Or possibly that part you have highlighted in the diagram is hogged out and that's why it's not sitting on the pin properly.

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All three parts are probably worn. Bushings on the cams are toast. I just did this to mine during the rebuild. Parts are out there to replace them.

You're definitely right.

Here's a pic of one...the other looked similar.

New parts on order. thanks!

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I’ve heard of the suggestion of soaking the gold parts in 50/50 vinegar water and then scrubbing with aluminum foil…but have never seen before and after pics.

Has anyone done this successfully? If so, would you recommend it?

In my limited experience, it doesn't take much to strip off the factory plating. I've just been using mild soap and water to get them looking at clean as I can.

Hello all. After putting my WCS back together after a shop, I am experiencing two issues that were not present before I took the game apart. 1. Randomly the switch on the upper left ramp will generate a slam tilt. It doesn't happen every time the ball passes under but it does happen randomly. #2 The VUK next to the goal will randomly fire once or twice during and after a game. Neither of these issues were present before I shopped the game. I checked the optos and they work fine in test and doing the business card test. Any suggestions on where to begin?

EDIT: I think I fixed it. Double checked my connections underneath the playfield and had two mixed up.

Selling some nice parts for WCS94. I sold my pin, no longer need them.

After a month away, I'm putting my WCS 94 back together with some new clear plastics. So, where does the clear plastic in the picture go? It was not in my machine

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above the "Assist" saucer in front of the goal.

On top of the bottom right pop bumper. Long part goes on the right side—it prevents balls from getting stuck. I learned this firsthand.

You can see it a bit in this pic.
https://o.pinside.com/f/ee/8e/fee8ea93cda1a353334a6b2de3db93db3a1c156c.jpg

This is correct.

Lots of correct answers above. If you don't need this (or if anyone has one available), I'm in need of one.

Thanks!

Thanks all.

After doing some troubleshooting on my trough and re-punching some wires I've determined the contacts inside this plug are sketchy. How do I go about identifying this exact white plug so I can replace it? It seems like there are many different ones with tiny variations out there. I can't imagine there's a "standard Williams plug with x number of pins".

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Did you use a proper punch-down tool or a screwdriver? If you used a screwdriver, that's probably why the connection is marginal.

What connector does it plug into.. it looks like a 12 pin, 22awg, .156 which Marco should have a substitute on their site. The OEM Pancon connectors that size are NLA I believe. If they are made they are hard to find...

It's the board that the trough boards connect to. I used a punch down tool. When everything is plugged in, if I push ever-so-gently on the plastic casing it glitches. The connection from the plug to the wire would likely not cause that issue. Either way, thanks for the info on the plug. Replacing that will at least eliminate one variable. It's also possible it -is- a punch issue as the connector slots where the wires go are a little bit mangled from previous owners.

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Sounds more like bad solder joints on the board.

If the wires are mangled you can pull them all out, cut off an equal amount on each wire (just enough to get rid of the mess), and re-punch them to clean it up.

„ When you put the new ball on it is crazy how much more action it creates. Chuckwurt is correct, best to just buy a new one.“

Wow that new ball rocks like hell … make much more fun

Keep it clean. The moment you see a black line develop on it, clean it off with some novus 2 and it will stay rockin’ forever.

I would have thought that too, but if I pull the plug out halfway it helps the problem. I think there are dead spots in the plug connectors. Either way, I should just pull the board a reflow the solder. I did it once before, so now that I'm a master it should be easy!