(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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  • 740 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Phoerber
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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There are 8,491 posts in this topic. You are on page 146 of 170.
#7251 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

The concerns here are many. I'm assuming there's some screw above the PF surface. But even with that you're in for a fight. The screw is small so there's not much actual screw to work with and it's in there tight enough to break the shaft as well. You'll probably get one chance at an alternate extraction method before you're hosed and have to "dig" it out. If you can't grab it with needle nose pliers as Kevlar51 suggests (or a small pair of vice grips) you may be able to cut/grind it to help the process by providing a better surface to grab it with. But both of these options remove some of the screw so that's going to make it more fragile.
I've had success by cutting/grinding the shaft in the following 2 ways in the past. But with such a small screw diameter there's not much room to work with:

grind two flat spots on either side of screw (flat spots would be parallel to each other) with a Dremmel tool and then use the pliers/vice grips to grip on the flats and carefully back it out.
cut/grind a small grove into the shaft of the screw with a Dremmel tool and then use a flat blade screwdriver to carefully back it out.

If you score the PF with the Dremmel it's not a huge issue as it's under the bumper. But I do understand the pain that would cause.
I'm interested to hear of other ideas as I'm probably missing some easier method.

Yeah, I agree with everything you are saying. It was a predrilled hole and I barely torqued and it broke flat with the playfield lol.. I am going to look at all of the dremel bits in the known universe and see what will work best. I am thinking of trying to grind it out
Of existence. It's such a bs thing to try and deal with!

#7252 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

Yeah, I agree with everything you are saying. It was a predrilled hole and I barely torqued and it broke flat with the playfield lol.. I am going to look at all of the dremel bits in the known universe and see what will work best. I am thinking of trying to grind it out
Of existence. It's such a bs thing to try and deal with!

Lots of ways to go since it's flush too.

The biggest problem with grinding or drilling it out is the bit wandering into the softer wood that's all around it. If you could clamp everything steady drilling/grinding it out could work.

You could work from the bottom of the PF and try to drill out the wood around the screw. Slowly with small bits that will deflect around the screw shaft. You'd not drill any deeper than say 3/4s of the PF thickness. The idea being you're removing all the wood from around the screw from the underside. If you're careful you might be able to drill out enough around the screw that you could gently push it through from the top. Then you could carefully clean up the mess left from the boring exercise by drilling the hole out to the size of a dowel, again not going all the way through. You'd back fill the hole with the matching wood dowel - glue and tap it in to set. Then re-drill the pilot from the top. That would preserve the upper PF condition, get the thing out, and fix the mess from the underside.

#7253 2 years ago

Solder it on a metal part of a nail and pull it out afterwards.

#7254 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Lots of ways to go since it's flush too.
The biggest problem with grinding or drilling it out is the bit wandering into the softer wood that's all around it. If you could clamp everything steady drilling/grinding it out could work.
You could work from the bottom of the PF and try to drill out the wood around the screw. Slowly with small bits that will deflect around the screw shaft. You'd not drill any deeper than say 3/4s of the PF thickness. The idea being you're removing all the wood from around the screw from the underside. If you're careful you might be able to drill out enough around the screw that you could gently push it through from the top. Then you could carefully clean up the mess left from the boring exercise by drilling the hole out to the size of a dowel, again not going all the way through. You'd back fill the hole with the matching wood dowel - glue and tap it in to set. Then re-drill the pilot from the top. That would preserve the upper PF condition, get the thing out, and fix the mess from the underside.

This is a solid approach me thinks. This is such a nonsense thing to have happened. I was looking at soldering a skinny nail shaft to it like Toine79 mentioned but its in there pretty solid. I appreciate all the ideas, giving me a notion on how to get this devil metal out!

#7255 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

This is a solid approach me thinks. This is such a nonsense thing to have happened. I was looking at soldering a skinny nail shaft to it like Toine79 mentioned but its in there pretty solid. I appreciate all the ideas, giving me a notion on how to get this devil metal out!

Yea, solder like electrical solder or silver plumbing isn't going to have the holding power. I've pulled bolts out of engine blocks and such by tack welding a nut on the break but that screw is sooooo small that it would probably just vaporize rather than bond and we don't even know what the composition of the screw is.

It's basically a sh*t situation. I don't envy your situation. Good luck and whatever you do let us know.

#7256 2 years ago

Okay peeps, what was the true reason for the gold legs and wireform on the game when the rest of the metal is silver?

#7257 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Yea, solder like electrical solder or silver plumbing isn't going to have the holding power. I've pulled bolts out of engine blocks and such by tack welding a nut on the break but that screw is sooooo small that it would probably just vaporize rather than bond and we don't even know what the composition of the screw is.
It's basically a sh*t situation. I don't envy your situation. Good luck and whatever you do let us know.

Here is how I solved this. I bought three needle thin dremel drill bits. It took over an hour but I drilled the entire screw out of existence. I broke one of the bits, but I did zero dog to the playfield all said and done! This pic is half way through the process, just had to hold the dremel super steady!

20220201_103921 (resized).jpg20220201_103921 (resized).jpg
#7258 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

Here is how I solved this. I bought three needle thin dremel drill bits. It took over an hour but I drilled the entire screw out of existence. I broke one of the bits, but I did zero dog to the playfield all said and done! This pic is half way through the process, just had to hold the dremel super steady![quoted image]

Nice!

Thanks for reporting back.

-1
#7259 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Okay peeps, what was the true reason for the gold legs and wireform on the game when the rest of the metal is silver?

Let's add to that why there is no real green in this pin but soccer is played on a huge chunk of green!? I think they were doing shots when they made decisions on this game. Part of why I love it maybe

#7260 2 years ago

I read somewhere that the designers felt that "true green" was a bad color on playfields and wasn't visually appealing. Also, this was the early-mid '90's, so TEAL TEAL TEAL!!! PURPLE PURPLE PURPLE! (See also Charlotte Hornets from this timeframe)

#7261 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Okay peeps, what was the true reason for the gold legs and wireform on the game when the rest of the metal is silver?

Gold is obviously referring to what you get when you win the World Cup. They probably thought it would be too pumped with everything in gold.

#7262 2 years ago

Just felt like sharing some pics of my baby girl. My next addition will be a LED color display.
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#7263 2 years ago

Hi all. First time here… I’ve owned a WCS pinball for about 20 years. I mostly bought it for when the kids were around and only occasionally play it these days. A few days ago i was playing and I decided to replace some bulbs and also ended up replacing the batteries. It’s crazy, but I don’t ever remember replacing them before and even after all this time they still were working and had no corrosion. I did this with the power off and consequently lost all my settings. I think I’ve mostly got it back to how it was setup but I have one thing I still can’t figure out. When I turn it on, I get the initial “boing” sound but I don’t get anything else. Since I don’t play often, I think it’s supposed to play music and maybe say something about the players entering the field. Once I hit the start button, it says “Get ready for the big game”, and plays music. Throughout the game I get music and commentary.

So, should I be hearing an announcement and/or music when I first turn on the machine?

If so, is this a setting I didn’t restore correctly, or could I have inadvertently done something when I was replacing the batteries?

#7264 2 years ago

I just flipped mine on no music or voice when I first turn it on either. Eventually the attract mode comes on and plays some music but that’s all I know of.

Quoted from AugustWest61:

Hi all. First time here… I’ve owned a WCS pinball for about 20 years. I mostly bought it for when the kids were around and only occasionally play it these days. A few days ago i was playing and I decided to replace some bulbs and also ended up replacing the batteries. It’s crazy, but I don’t ever remember replacing them before and even after all this time they still were working and had no corrosion. I did this with the power off and consequently lost all my settings. I think I’ve mostly got it back to how it was setup but I have one thing I still can’t figure out. When I turn it on, I get the initial “boing” sound but I don’t get anything else. Since I don’t play often, I think it’s supposed to play music and maybe say something about the players entering the field. Once I hit the start button, it says “Get ready for the big game”, and plays music. Throughout the game I get music and commentary.
So, should I be hearing an announcement and/or music when I first turn on the machine?
If so, is this a setting I didn’t restore correctly, or could I have inadvertently done something when I was replacing the batteries?

#7265 2 years ago

Maybe a stupid question but my extra ball button is broken.
Here in Europe I cannot find it anymore. One on Ebay but with import fees it costs me almost 50eur.

Can I use for example the launch ball of other machines: Dracula, Johnny Mnemonic, Flintstones?

Thanks.

#7266 2 years ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Maybe a stupid question but my extra ball button is broken.
Here in Europe I cannot find it anymore. One on Ebay but with import fees it costs me almost 50eur.
Can I use for example the launch ball of other machines: Dracula, Johnny Mnemonic, Flintstones?
Thanks.

$15 plus $4 shipping on ebay.

ebay.com link: Bally World Cup Soccer 94 Pinball Machine Extra Ball Button 20 9663 D 1 New

#7267 2 years ago

Thanks but does not want to send it to Belgium

#7268 2 years ago

If this assembly fits (not sure), could you swap the lens? Spitballing here.

https://pu-parts.com/williams-bally-orange-extra-ball-button-assembly

#7269 2 years ago
Quoted from KneeKickLou:

I just flipped mine on no music or voice when I first turn it on either. Eventually the attract mode comes on and plays some music but that’s all I know of.

Thanks for letting me know. I should know better than to trust my memory.

#7270 2 years ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Maybe a stupid question but my extra ball button is broken.
Here in Europe I cannot find it anymore. One on Ebay but with import fees it costs me almost 50eur.
Can I use for example the launch ball of other machines: Dracula, Johnny Mnemonic, Flintstones?
Thanks.

As Rockbiter mentioned, if you find the same type of switch you can disassemble it and swap the "Extra Ball" insert over to the new switch. Or simply move the plastic face over to your old switch. It's all the same in the end, but the switches are not different, just the insert text.

#7271 2 years ago

So I ordered a new soccer ball. Do the new soccer balls come like this? It doesn’t come off

6221B23E-BE9D-4369-B8B9-34CB8DF92E45 (resized).jpeg6221B23E-BE9D-4369-B8B9-34CB8DF92E45 (resized).jpeg
#7272 2 years ago

Nope. Should be perfectly clean.

#7273 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

So I ordered a new soccer ball. Do the new soccer balls come like this? It doesn’t come off
[quoted image]

Here is mine yet to be installed as a brand new one to reference

20220204_131826 (resized).jpg20220204_131826 (resized).jpg
#7274 2 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Okay peeps, what was the true reason for the gold legs and wireform on the game when the rest of the metal is silver?

I always wondered that too so actually asked Jpop about that at pinball expo and he told me they had lots of legs left from Indiana Jones to use up so was asked to use them. The gold wireforms were an attempt to make them fit in better...

#7275 2 years ago

Hi I recently purchased a World Cup Soccer (my first pin)and after owning it for 2 months my dmd has started malfunctioning. Any help on how to resolve would be very much appreciated.

Screenshot_20220204-224222_Video Player (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220204-224222_Video Player (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220204-224243_Video Player (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220204-224243_Video Player (resized).jpg
#7276 2 years ago

Anyone have one in the northeast they’d like to trade for a nice DE Jurassic Park (pinsound + color DMD) or sell outright?

#7277 2 years ago
Quoted from Banksy:

Hi I recently purchased a World Cup Soccer (my first pin)and after owning it for 2 months my dmd has started malfunctioning. Any help on how to resolve would be very much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Reseat/replace the ribbon cable.

#7278 2 years ago

Can someone take a picture of how this metal piece is attached to the door? The screws keep popping out and not sure which orientation they should go in thanks

F8E4C578-2CAF-48A6-8EF0-04B89CE38F1F (resized).jpegF8E4C578-2CAF-48A6-8EF0-04B89CE38F1F (resized).jpeg
#7279 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Can someone take a picture of how this metal piece is attached to the door? The screws keep popping out and not sure which orientation they should go in thanks
[quoted image]

You can see the attachment holes on the door in your pic. Goes on just how you’re holding it so that when the door shuts the bracket pushes those white finger buttons in.

#7280 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Can someone take a picture of how this metal piece is attached to the door? The screws keep popping out and not sure which orientation they should go in thanks
[quoted image]

As chuckwurt mentioned. If the screws keep falling out then either the screw threads are shot or the holes have been stripped out. Try replacing the screws with new and if they don't snug up you'll need to step up one size. You can get the tap hole size for the stepped up screw off the net and buy self tapping sheet metal screws which will cut new threads when you put them in the first time.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7281 2 years ago

Thank you I had to use longer screws and it worked. I really appreciate all the help on this group. I do have another question . The side armor and lockdown bar are stainless steel. The legs and leg bolts have a yellowish color to them with rust throughout. Not sure how easy it would be to take out all the rust and I think the legs will still look yellowish and not match. I’m thinking just getting new legs for $60 and be done with it. Is this the legs that I should get? It says there is no finish in them. Thanks https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ribbed-raw-legs-set-of-4.html

CACBDDD8-91DA-4EA8-8A74-370BCA5AB2F8 (resized).jpegCACBDDD8-91DA-4EA8-8A74-370BCA5AB2F8 (resized).jpeg
#7282 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Thank you I had to use longer screws and it worked. I really appreciate all the help on this group. I do have another question . The side armor and lockdown bar are stainless steel. The legs and leg bolts have a yellowish color to them with rust throughout. Not sure how easy it would be to take out all the rust and I think the legs will still look yellowish and not match. I’m thinking just getting new legs for $60 and be done with it. Is this the legs that I should get? It says there is no finish in them. Thanks https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ribbed-raw-legs-set-of-4.html[quoted image]

Looks like you have original WCS legs, which are brass coated. The original lockdown bar and rails are stainless and don't match.

Lots of legs options at Pinball Life, where you linked your raw legs: https://www.pinballlife.com/leg-sets.html
Personally, I'd go chrome over raw. But with all the options, choose what you think will look best.

I don't care for the brass, and Pinball Life doesn't carry them. There used to be a place that had brass legs for a reasonable price (Competitive Products--less than $100 for a set), but apparently their site isn't working anymore. Looks like $179 might be the best you can do for brass https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1355 (though it sounds like you don't want that either).

#7283 2 years ago
Quoted from Banksy:

Hi I recently purchased a World Cup Soccer (my first pin)and after owning it for 2 months my dmd has started malfunctioning. Any help on how to resolve would be very much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It's probably -not- it but check the voltage at your outlet. Awhile ago I had too many things plugged into my line and the voltage was too low, causing the screen to freak out when I hit the flippers.

#7284 2 years ago

Have some work to do on WCS starting on it tonight

5E8F943F-CDD5-4DCB-BD63-C0DACFE694C9 (resized).jpeg5E8F943F-CDD5-4DCB-BD63-C0DACFE694C9 (resized).jpegAB20723F-4F37-4FD9-AF04-1F77E942FDC7 (resized).jpegAB20723F-4F37-4FD9-AF04-1F77E942FDC7 (resized).jpeg
#7285 2 years ago

I've had a new issue...or feature?...pop up recently. When I get to the World Cup Final, the soccer ball sounds like it starts spinning -really- fast. Like, "uh, that's about to explode" fast. It lasts for 10-30 seconds and then goes back to normal speed. I've played it probably 1000 games, but first noticed it about a hundred games ago. Does anyone know if this is supposed to happen?

#7286 2 years ago

Hello,

I'm looking to buy those decals.
Mine are gone.
Does anybody know where I can find only those decals please?

53977fda973bc3f13ccb3602204dc20c.image.300x224 (resized).jpg53977fda973bc3f13ccb3602204dc20c.image.300x224 (resized).jpg
#7287 2 years ago

I'm going to try and do work on my goalie tonight. The switch is intermittent and the goalie moves with a lot of slop to him. Anyone have any tips/wisdom before going at this?

#7288 2 years ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I'm going to try and do work on my goalie tonight. The switch is intermittent and the goalie moves with a lot of slop to him. Anyone have any tips/wisdom before going at this?

Make sure its wires aren't interfering with its movement.

#7289 2 years ago
Quoted from planet4:

bakerhillpins I bought them from Ministryofpinball (Netherlands). I have seen some decals with poor black quality and even though I think they look great I do feel they could be even more black.
Stebel I did try but one of the speakers did not turn out very nice so I had to redo it. And then both looked like crap. Will make another try later. I used paper as a stencil and it was not good.
scootss I have used the official Swedish WC 1994 song. It is almost our national soccer song since we came third back in -94. One fun detail is that my neighbor is the goalie in the 1994 troop who made the final save and he is supposed to come and try my pinball soon. And sign it.

Very cool, if he signed it post a picture!

#7290 2 years ago

So, I am down to installing ramps before my full resto is completed. I decided to debug first and am stumped on none of the flashers working. Fairly new to all of this so just wanting a few suggestions to maybe point me in the right direction. doing my own research but none of it has panned yet. Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

#7291 2 years ago

Might be a dumb suggestion but I think the coin door needs to be closed for the flasher test to work, I thought my flasher were dead too when I was doing some tests recently.

Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

So, I am down to installing ramps before my full resto is completed. I decided to debug first and am stumped on none of the flashers working. Fairly new to all of this so just wanting a few suggestions to maybe point me in the right direction. doing my own research but none of it has panned yet. Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

#7292 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

So, I am down to installing ramps before my full resto is completed. I decided to debug first and am stumped on none of the flashers working. Fairly new to all of this so just wanting a few suggestions to maybe point me in the right direction. doing my own research but none of it has panned yet. Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

If the coin door is closed like KneeKickLou said, then check the back of the interlock switch at the coin door to make sure the wires are properly connected

#7293 2 years ago

Wher does this plastic go? Top left?

DCAC1852-2123-4FC4-B8F8-CE564DFE25E6 (resized).jpegDCAC1852-2123-4FC4-B8F8-CE564DFE25E6 (resized).jpeg
#7294 2 years ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Wher does this plastic go? Top left?
[quoted image]

It goes under the plastic between the pop bumper and the goal. I recently had to track that one down.

#7295 2 years ago
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Might be a dumb suggestion but I think the coin door needs to be closed for the flasher test to work, I thought my flasher were dead too when I was doing some tests recently.

You nailed it. They all work, thanks for that and also Kevlar51 never would have known the coin door had to be closed lol.

#7296 2 years ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Wher does this plastic go? Top left?
[quoted image]

Here is a pic of the location. It goes under the plastic going around the blue pop cap

20220217_193621 (resized).jpg20220217_193621 (resized).jpg
#7297 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

Here is a pic of the location. It goes under the plastic going around the blue pop cap
[quoted image]

The attachment holes on the plastic don’t make sense for that location. Sure it goes there?

#7299 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The attachment holes on the plastic don’t make sense for that location. Sure it goes there?

I thought that to until I matched it with the holes behind striker. I had the exact same issue like 2 weeks ago till I found it's home.. I think it's a damage protection plastic so it's not identical to the plastic it goes under in the picture.

#7300 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The attachment holes on the plastic don’t make sense for that location. Sure it goes there?

I was until a minute ago when I decided to double check and it definitely does not go there. I never attached mine so I thought I had it figured. I have just spent some time hunched over this machine and I can't find its home, though it's shape only fits around the soccerball. But the only tri hole location I find is behind striker where I thought it went....

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