(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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There are 8,490 posts in this topic. You are on page 144 of 170.
#7151 2 years ago
Quoted from FieldDog1:

Sorry should have clarified, when I power on the machine, the ball spins before I even start to play for a super long time. Is that normal when you boot the game?

Mine does the same thing.

#7152 2 years ago

mine does not do that...only at the actual start of a game being played

#7153 2 years ago

Same, no ball spin until you press start

#7154 2 years ago

Anyone have random used plastics available need 3 (see pic)

Mine has some broken ones I’m seeking replacement

Thanks
James

2BAB1B62-6651-4971-B433-7B6CBFCCAA36 (resized).jpeg2BAB1B62-6651-4971-B433-7B6CBFCCAA36 (resized).jpeg
#7155 2 years ago

Looks like there may be a WCS in my future.

What do you recommend to inspect for this game specifically? What is likely to have issues?

thanks!

(also, if anyone is in the NY/NJ/PA/CT area and has one they're looking to move, let me know

#7156 2 years ago

Ball should spin on game start.

Check ramp entrances for cracks

Check back of the left ramp at the u turn. It’s cracked a lot. Inspect condition of lock mini playfield.

Make sure lock magnet and magna save works.

Make sure left ramp diverter works. It should change direction with each left ramp made unless lock is lit.

Make sure the ball diverts to the pops unless the left orbit is lit for travel. Then it should go all the way around.

Make sure the goalie goes back and forth when goal is lit. It should be lit at the start of each ball.

Make sure the back VUK works after shooting the goal.

Inspect the condition of the three saucers on the playfield

#7157 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Ball should spin on game start.

Check ramp entrances for cracks

Check back of the left ramp at the u turn. It’s cracked a lot. Inspect condition of lock mini playfield.

Make sure lock magnet and magna save works.

Make sure left ramp diverter works. It should change direction with each left ramp made unless lock is lit.

Make sure the ball diverts to the pops unless the left orbit is lit for travel. Then it should go all the way around.

Make sure the goalie goes back and forth when goal is lit. It should be lit at the start of each ball.

Make sure the back VUK works after shooting the goal.

Inspect the condition of the three saucers on the playfield

Hugely helpful. Thank you!

Are there any of those that you would view as showstoppers...where if is there is an issue you would immediately pass on the sale due to part availability, etc?

#7158 2 years ago
Quoted from scootss:

Hugely helpful. Thank you!
Are there any of those that you would view as showstoppers...where if is there is an issue you would immediately pass on the sale due to part availability, etc?

Nope. I think everything can be fixed/replaced.

#7159 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Anyone have random used plastics available need 3 (see pic)
Mine has some broken ones I’m seeking replacement
Thanks
James [quoted image]

I actually have all three. They are all used, one has a little touch up but better than nothing. Yours for the cost of shipping.

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#7160 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Nope. I think everything can be fixed/replaced.

Perfect. Thanks again.

#7161 2 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I actually have all three. They are all used, one has a little touch up but better than nothing. Yours for the cost of shipping. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you so much

PM sent

#7162 2 years ago

I have some funny behaviour with my display on the game.
I’m guess maybe ribbon cable? Anyone have any ideas?

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Problem solved it seems - ribbon cable on the left board lol

#7163 2 years ago

Hello everyone. Looking to buy a wcs in good shape but some that I’m finding don’t have leds in it. How difficult is it to install leds throughout and how long would it take? If anyone wants to sell a nice wcs within 4-6 hours of Chicago let me know.

#7164 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Hello everyone. Looking to buy a wcs in good shape but some that I’m finding don’t have leds in it. How difficult is it to install leds throughout and how long would it take? If anyone wants to sell a nice wcs within 4-6 hours of Chicago let me know.

Should take around 30-45 mins. Take old bulbs out, but new bulbs in. Probably needs 150 wedge base bulbs for the playfield and backbox and like 75 bayonet bulbs for the GI and some inserts. Leave the incandescent flashers in there. Do not switch those to LED.

You’re going to want non ghosting bulbs for all the inserts in the playfield. So I say around 75-100 of those wedge base bulbs need to be non ghosting.

Go with comet. Best prices and service.

#7166 2 years ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Just joined the club!

Congrats!
Quite possibly THE funnest pin on the planet.
Enjoy

#7167 2 years ago

Finally put up a Grand Champion score I can be proud of! By far the best game I’ve played on this before or after the clearcoat and restoration

13C4B2FC-F906-40ED-8383-81AF78F5C32D (resized).jpeg13C4B2FC-F906-40ED-8383-81AF78F5C32D (resized).jpeg
#7168 2 years ago

Hi all, having a bit of trouble with the magnet save blowing the fuse. I was able to reduce the time for the save through the menu settings but it keeps blowing the fuse for some reason. It works for around 3-4 times then the fuse blows. Any other ideas on how to remedy this? Thanks all!

#7169 2 years ago
Quoted from FieldDog1:

Hi all, having a bit of trouble with the magnet save blowing the fuse. I was able to reduce the time for the save through the menu settings but it keeps blowing the fuse for some reason. It works for around 3-4 times then the fuse blows. Any other ideas on how to remedy this? Thanks all!

Are you sure you're using the proper type fuse? I.e. Slow blow vs Fast blow

If you've got the proper type and rating on the fuse then you might need to replace the coil.

#7170 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Are you sure you're using the proper type fuse? I.e. Slow blow vs Fast blow
If you've got the proper type and rating on the fuse then you might need to replace the coil.

Yes def made sure it’s the same fuse type and I replaced the entire magnet coil. Not sure what else might cause this.

#7171 2 years ago

Hi there guys,

I’ve realized that my scoop strength is not the same it used to. It works but you feel that its not as strong as you expect. I havent checked deeply the scoop or under the playfield but…any clue?

Thanks

#7172 2 years ago
Quoted from FieldDog1:

Yes def made sure it’s the same fuse type and I replaced the entire magnet coil. Not sure what else might cause this.

Oh, I missed you mentioning you replaced the coil too.. So yea, that's weird. I'll have to go take a look at what else is in the circuit on mine. When you replaced the part, did you just use what was under the PF or did you look up the part# and order that? (Just in case someone threw in the wrong part in the past). I'm probably asking already answered questions...

#7173 2 years ago
Quoted from ViNsEDj:

Hi there guys,
I’ve realized that my scoop strength is not the same it used to. It works but you feel that its not as strong as you expect. I havent checked deeply the scoop or under the playfield but…any clue?
Thanks

Is it always weaker or only after playing a few games? Start by validating your power supply voltages... FYI -Having a feeling it's weaker is awfully vague though so it's going to be easy to end up on a wild goose chase.

#7174 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Is it always weaker or only after playing a few games? Start by validating your power supply voltages... FYI -Having a feeling it's weaker is awfully vague though so it's going to be easy to end up on a wild goose chase.

Always. All other coils are fine.

#7175 2 years ago
Quoted from ViNsEDj:

Always. All other coils are fine.

Check to make sure that the coil plunger tip (that contacts the ball) isn't mashed or deformed. Look the part up on Marco's site to compare. Also make sure all the screws securing the coil are tight and the coil isn't loose in the mount.

If it's all tight and the tip isn't mashed I'd replace the coil sleeve. If none of that works it might be the coil.

#7176 2 years ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Oh, I missed you mentioning you replaced the coil too.. So yea, that's weird. I'll have to go take a look at what else is in the circuit on mine. When you replaced the part, did you just use what was under the PF or did you look up the part# and order that? (Just in case someone threw in the wrong part in the past). I'm probably asking already answered questions...

Found the problem! Stupid issue on my end, the guy before me put wrong fuse, had a 2A vs 3A which I needed. When in doubt always resort to the manual. I appreciate your help!

#7177 2 years ago
Quoted from FieldDog1:

Found the problem! Stupid issue on my end, the guy before me put wrong fuse, had a 2A vs 3A which I needed. When in doubt always resort to the manual. I appreciate your help!

LOL, one of the few times I've heard of someone under-rating when replacing a fuse... Most times its a nail or tinfoil. Glad you got it sorted!

#7178 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Leave the incandescent flashers in there. Do not switch those to LED.

Curious.... Why do you not like the LED flashers? I used to feel the same way until I swapped in some Comet LED flashers in my World Cup. I was blown away with the light show so much that I went ahead and did all my machines with LED flashers.

One thing I didnt like about incandescent flashers was the color difference between them and the LED GI and Inserts.

#7179 2 years ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Curious.... Why do you not like the LED flashers? I used to feel the same way until I swapped in some Comet LED flashers in my World Cup. I was blown away with the light show so much that I went ahead and did all my machines with LED flashers.
One thing I didnt like about incandescent flashers was the color difference between them and the LED GI and Inserts.

I think the generally consensus is people like to be able to see. I like the colored flashers, they are no where near as bright and you can kind of theme modes or playfield areas. The cold whites are brutal you might as well stare at a solar eclipse. I want to play pinball not induce epilepsy.

#7180 2 years ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Curious.... Why do you not like the LED flashers? I used to feel the same way until I swapped in some Comet LED flashers in my World Cup. I was blown away with the light show so much that I went ahead and did all my machines with LED flashers.
One thing I didnt like about incandescent flashers was the color difference between them and the LED GI and Inserts.

They are too bright and incandescent flashers rarely burn out.

Comet makes a dimmer LED flasher now. Been meaning to try them.

I use warm white bulbs everywhere so the incandescent flashers are almost the same color.

#7181 2 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I think the generally consensus is people like to be able to see. I like the colored flashers, they are no where near as bright and you can kind of theme modes or playfield areas. The cold whites are brutal you might as well stare at a solar eclipse. I want to play pinball not induce epilepsy.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

They are too bright and incandescent flashers rarely burn out.
Comet makes a dimmer LED flasher now. Been meaning to try them.
I use warm white bulbs everywhere so the incandescent flashers are almost the same color.

I agree that the cool white flashers are over the top sometimes.... but I think thats why I like them LOL. I figure if its gonna flash.... release the hounds!!!! LOL

#7182 2 years ago

Yeah. I don’t care if flashers never existed.

#7183 2 years ago

Merry Christmas to all on the Pitch!

#7184 2 years ago

Good morning everyone! Hope you all had a great Christmas.

Looking for some help with my striker hideout up kicker. It keeps auto firing even when the ball isn’t present. Sometimes it’s just an extra 2-3 times, sometimes it fires 10-15 times (on startup and when the ball lands in it).

It still recognizes and fires the ball correctly when it lands in it, and I’ve verified in test mode that the optos are working appropriately and aren’t triggering repeatedly. The wires around there look to be ok.

Any ideas on what’s going on? Obviously something is happening because it wasn’t like this a week ago. Any help would be much appreciated!

#7185 2 years ago
Quoted from outlanewiz:

Good morning everyone! Hope you all had a great Christmas.
Looking for some help with my striker hideout up kicker. It keeps auto firing even when the ball isn’t present. Sometimes it’s just an extra 2-3 times, sometimes it fires 10-15 times (on startup and when the ball lands in it).
It still recognizes and fires the ball correctly when it lands in it, and I’ve verified in test mode that the optos are working appropriately and aren’t triggering repeatedly. The wires around there look to be ok.
Any ideas on what’s going on? Obviously something is happening because it wasn’t like this a week ago. Any help would be much appreciated!

Have you tried tapping on the playfield or cabinet while in test mode? Maybe there is a cold/cracked solder joint that is activated during gameplay vibration.

#7186 2 years ago

Hello everyone. I've searched the thread but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for so maybe someone can help me out.

The left ramp diverter does not divert completely to the right. It only goes about halfway. It will lay flush up against the ramp on the left side though. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

#7187 2 years ago
Quoted from Nakeworks:

Hello everyone. I've searched the thread but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for so maybe someone can help me out.
The left ramp diverter does not divert completely to the right. It only goes about halfway. It will lay flush up against the ramp on the left side though. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Have you checked the linkage under the playfield? Maybe there is a set screw loose?

#7188 2 years ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Have you checked the linkage under the playfield? Maybe there is a set screw loose?

I will double check tonight but I think was fine last time I was troubleshooting.

#7189 2 years ago
Quoted from Nakeworks:

Hello everyone. I've searched the thread but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for so maybe someone can help me out.
The left ramp diverter does not divert completely to the right. It only goes about halfway. It will lay flush up against the ramp on the left side though. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

It's probably just rubbing against the ramp where the rod goes through. Could take some adjustments to the ramp to get it moving freely.

#7190 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Nobody has suggestions for me here? While I still have this problem I did add a trophy next to the final draw hole
[quoted image]

You went for a much smaller trophy than I. I printed a small one first (probably still larger than what you have) to see what I thought and felt there was more space there to fill. Looks cool though.

#7191 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

You went for a much smaller trophy than I. I printed a small one first (probably still larger than what you have) to see what I thought and felt there was more space there to fill. Looks cool though.

I bought a PVC one, would like to see what you printed out...

#7192 2 years ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Have you tried tapping on the playfield or cabinet while in test mode? Maybe there is a cold/cracked solder joint that is activated during gameplay vibration.

great thought. I spent some time with it over this week and have wiggled all the wiring underneath and tapped everywhere around the playfield. No replication except during an actual game.

At a bit of a loss as to what to do next. Any ideas welcome!

#7193 2 years ago
Quoted from outlanewiz:

great thought. I spent some time with it over this week and have wiggled all the wiring underneath and tapped everywhere around the playfield. No replication except during an actual game.
At a bit of a loss as to what to do next. Any ideas welcome!

Replace the optos in there and clean the area really well.

#7194 2 years ago

Just question guys. My “light free kick” kickers are much stronger in the test than in game play, is that adjustable? Is it normal?

Also, can any1 upload an example
Pic on how they improve the assist kicker power? (Mainly the tip trick).

Thank you!

#7195 2 years ago

Back in the club with a very nice playfield. Not a lot of wear on the scoops and holes.
Only issue was a little spot of wear near the letter O and N (first picture)
Result on second picture after little touch up.

Will add some layers of 2k clearcoat on it because also a roll over button had some ghosting under it.

Good wax and after ready for build up.

DSC_4191 (resized).JPGDSC_4191 (resized).JPGDSC_4193 (resized).JPGDSC_4193 (resized).JPG
#7196 2 years ago

Can anyone tell me what this dangling looking thingy is on the coin door?

View recent photos (resized).pngView recent photos (resized).png
#7197 2 years ago
Quoted from JPKnapp:

Can anyone tell me what this dangling looking thingy is on the coin door?
[quoted image]

Slam tilt

#7198 2 years ago

Yea, and it's all knackered up too. Should look like this:

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7199 2 years ago

Howdy, got a question. So I am nearing the end of my wcs major restoration and I can't find any definitive idea on how thick the washers need to be between the soccer ball motor mount and the motor. Any one help clue me in?

20220113_162945 (resized).jpg20220113_162945 (resized).jpg
#7200 2 years ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Back in the club with a very nice playfield. Not a lot of wear on the scoops and holes.
Only issue was a little spot of wear near the letter O and N (first picture)
Result on second picture after little touch up.
Will add some layers of 2k clearcoat on it because also a roll over button had some ghosting under it.
Good wax and after ready for build up. [quoted image][quoted image]

Excellent job, I had to really zoom in to see anything at all. Nobody gonna see that!

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