(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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There are 8,491 posts in this topic. You are on page 143 of 170.
#7101 2 years ago

Hey all! Anyone know where I can find the switches for ‘Goalie is Right’ and Goalies is Left? I think they’re switches 43 and 44. I can find the other ones around the goalie but not that one.

Game days it’s having an issue with these and the goalie doesn’t go side to side as much as it used to.

Edit: why is it that as soon as I ask I always find it, haha. Turns out these switches are on the underside of the playfield at the end of the goalie rotating mechanism. One of my wires had popped off needing to be reattached.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7103 2 years ago

Spectacular. Thanks, @justanotherrat!

#7104 2 years ago

Really nice of you to make this available.

Would you have any issues if someone in North America made these for others for a small fee plus shipping?

Not all of us have access to the necessary equipment.

#7105 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

Really nice of you to make this available.
Would you have any issues if someone in North America made these for others for a small fee plus shipping?
Not all of us have access to the necessary equipment.

I plan on sending JustAnotherRat a little '$omething-$omething' for his work.

#7106 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

Really nice of you to make this available.
Would you have any issues if someone in North America made these for others for a small fee plus shipping?
Not all of us have access to the necessary equipment.

I would love to buy these if you (or someone) would be willing to make them here in US since I don't have a machine or friend with the machine.

#7107 2 years ago
Quoted from outlanewiz:

I would love to buy these if you (or someone) would be willing to make them here in US since I don't have a machine or friend with the machine.

I too am willing to buy them them if they were available and JustAnotherRat gave his blessing.

I am in Canada but these are small and flat so shipping should be modest.

#7108 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Hi All,
I’m still struggling with my Goal Popper coil not activating, in live play or test mode. However, when I test it with my multimeter, I get a reading of 3.8 ohms. I’m new to this, but have read that is a good reading. That said, all other coils on the machine are reading much higher than that (all over 10). Is the goal popper coil bad, or should I investigate elsewhere?

Any thoughts on this, WCS94 community?

#7109 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Any thoughts on this, WCS94 community?

Have you followed the wiring from the coil to ensure it’s not broken somewhere?

#7110 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Any thoughts on this, WCS94 community?

Basic coil troubleshooting next:
1. Is the coil getting it's +50v feed?
2. If the transistor firing?

#7111 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

I too am willing to buy them them if they were available and JustAnotherRat gave his blessing.
I am in Canada but these are small and flat so shipping should be modest.

Half way through a restoration on mine - would love to add a set of these if anyone makes them available for sale.

#7112 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Have you followed the wiring from the coil to ensure it’s not broken somewhere?

Yes - it looks like wires are good

#7113 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Basic coil troubleshooting next:
1. Is the coil getting it's +50v feed?
2. If the transistor firing?

This is where my inexperience comes in. I don’t know the answer to either of these, or what they mean!

#7114 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

This is where my inexperience comes in. I don’t know the answer to either of these, or what they mean!

You can test whether the coil itself is good and receiving power by grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode which will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly.

Take an alligator clip wire and attach it to the ground braid in the cabinet and briefly touch the coil lug with the other end. If the coil fires it is probably good and you should suspect the driver board transistor.

#7115 2 years ago
Quoted from frisbez:

You can test whether the coil itself is good and receiving power by grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode which will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly.
Take an alligator clip wire and attach it to the ground braid in the cabinet and briefly touch the coil lug with the other end. If the coil fires it is probably good and you should suspect the driver board transistor.

Quick question before trying to learn how to do what you’re describing. . Is there a fuse specific to the goal popper?

#7116 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Quick question before trying to learn how to do what you’re describing. . Is there a fuse specific to the goal popper?

No. There is a fuse for solenoids 1-8.

#7117 2 years ago

Here's a picture of a coil. The diode is the small black and grey (the banded side is the side with the grey marking) cylinder in the middle. You'll see it attaches to the two metal lugs.

The diode acts as a one way gate. It allows voltage to flow through the coil to activate it, but not then go back to driver board and blow up sensitive components.

By connecting the non-banded side of the diode to the ground braided wire you complete the circuit. Pinball coils on WPC games are always hot. They always have voltage supplied to them but nowhere for it to go. Connecting the ground gives that voltage somewhere to go and will activate the coil.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7118 2 years ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Here's a picture of a coil. The diode is the small black and grey (the banded side is the side with the grey marking) cylinder in the middle. You'll see it attaches to the two metal lugs.
The diode acts as a one way gate. It allows voltage to flow through the coil to activate it, but not then go back to driver board and blow up sensitive components.
By connecting the non-banded side of the diode to the ground braided wire you complete the circuit. Pinball coils on WPC games are always hot. They always have voltage supplied to them but nowhere for it to go. Connecting the ground gives that voltage somewhere to go and will activate the coil.
[quoted image]

It looks like the goal popper coil is a non-diode coil. Would this change my troubleshooting direction?

#7119 2 years ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

It looks like the goal popper coil is a non-diode coil. Would this change my troubleshooting direction?

Yes, I forgot that WPC games moved the diodes to the driver board. In this case, power is coming in on the coil lug with 2 red wires. The other side should only have 1 wire. Grounding the single wire side should cause the coil to fire.

#7120 2 years ago
Quoted from lemmings418:

Really nice of you to make this available.
Would you have any issues if someone in North America made these for others for a small fee plus shipping?
Not all of us have access to the necessary equipment.

No problem at all, in fact I'd much prefer for that to happen than for someone to make and sell them for a profit.

#7121 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I plan on sending JustAnotherRat a little '$omething-$omething' for his work.

Thanks but nothing required. Very little work for me to create that. I have asked for enough help in this thread that the assistance covers it.

#7122 2 years ago

thanks frisbez for pointing him in the right direction!

1 week later
#7123 2 years ago

Will be back in the club for the 3th time. Really miss this game and will keep it in my small collection at home.

It needs a deep cleaning and fresh plastics.
I was wondering if somebody has pictures of a Wc94 with clear starpost and clear pop bumper caps instead of the factor teal ones?

My first one had teal plastic posts and yellow rubber but to change it to other colors.

Thanks.

#7124 2 years ago

Hi all
Which fuse controls the diverter hold? My diverter will fire in testing but nothing happens on hold test
It was working yesterday now not

#7125 2 years ago

Greetings WCS94 owners

I have owned my game for about 6 months and really enjoy it

My son and I were under the hood and noticed a couple head scratchers

1 - there is a smaller hanging connector by the ball trough / flipper region that has no connector
2 - my son claims that we may have a early production game. he showed me these roll over switch holes. but with no switch’s if anyone has the switches. they are under the right ramp near the pop bumpers. I will add a image of the connector later in the day but just figured I would ask about the switch.

#7126 2 years ago

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it.

My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it

Thanks
/Rod

7054edd7557df01dea9d75132bd5e64dcb3ac40b (resized).jpg7054edd7557df01dea9d75132bd5e64dcb3ac40b (resized).jpg
#7127 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it.
My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it
Thanks
/Rod
[quoted image]

If you figure that out let me know as I checked everything I could and never found it myself.

#7128 2 years ago
Quoted from Waxx:

If you figure that out let me know as I checked everything I could and never found it myself.

I will !

btw, on your WCS, are the flippers strong enough to do a post pass? because I can't do that on mine and I have no idea if that's normal or not.

#7129 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

I will !
btw, on your WCS, are the flippers strong enough to do a post pass? because I can't do that on mine and I have no idea if that's normal or not.

I can post pass on mine, I always though stronger flippers would make posts passes harder. I’ve found it difficult on newer Sterns but any older games I’ve played have been able to do it.

#7130 2 years ago
Quoted from KneeKickLou:

I can post pass on mine, I always though stronger flippers would make posts passes harder. I’ve found it difficult on newer Sterns but any older games I’ve played have been able to do it.

Game dependent as the location and angle of slings are what I believe affects passing the most.

BKSOR is easy but Mando is very difficult.

#7131 2 years ago
Quoted from Waxx:

Game dependent as the location and angle of slings are what I believe affects passing the most.
BKSOR is easy but Mando is very difficult.

I just realised that I can post pass from the right flipper, but not the left.

#7132 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it.
My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it
Thanks
/Rod
[quoted image]

The parts list has something ID’ed as “ 01-13025 Ramp Support” but I can’t find evidence of that part anywhere online. Sounds like it could be it.

#7133 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

The parts list has something ID’ed as “ 01-13025 Ramp Support” but I can’t find evidence of that part anywhere online. Sounds like it could be it.

exactly, that item is nowhere to be found

#7134 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it.
My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it
Thanks
/Rod
[quoted image]

That piece is welded to the ramp on mine, so likely will not be available as a separate part. It is a simple bent piece of metal that you should be able to fabricate fairly easily and JB Weld it to the wire form. I'll make a dimensional drawing and take a closer picture...

#7135 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it.
My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it
Thanks
/Rod
[quoted image]

Thats a picture of my old wcs you have there.

I made that bracket mysellf its not the original one
Couldnt find one so i made one mysellf

#7136 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

That piece is welded to the ramp (edit: it is not welded, it's a separate piece) on mine, so likely will not be available as a separate part. It is a simple bent piece of metal that you should be able to fabricate fairly easily and JB Weld it to the wire form. I'll make a dimensional drawing and take a closer picture...

Edit: I'll post the measurements and drawing tonight...

#7137 2 years ago
Quoted from rodclemen:

Does anyone know what part that is?(the bracket holding the wire ramp) part no. or where to buy it. My WCS doesn't have that so I "need" it
Thanks
/Rod
[quoted image]

Hey Rod, here is my bracket with dimensions (my drafting skills are pretty rusty):

WCS Wire Form Bracket 1 (resized).jpegWCS Wire Form Bracket 1 (resized).jpeg

WCS Wire Form Bracket 2 (resized).jpegWCS Wire Form Bracket 2 (resized).jpeg

#7138 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Hey Rod, here is my bracket with dimensions (my drafting skills are pretty rusty):
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

thank you so much!

#7139 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Hi all
Which fuse controls the diverter hold? My diverter will fire in testing but nothing happens on hold test
It was working yesterday now not

Nobody has suggestions for me here? While I still have this problem I did add a trophy next to the final draw hole

8814D480-7D92-4B65-8653-E1530E21255E (resized).jpeg8814D480-7D92-4B65-8653-E1530E21255E (resized).jpeg
#7140 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Nobody has suggestions for me here? While I still have this problem I did add a trophy next to the final draw hole
[quoted image]

I would read up in the manual and see if there is a fuse that operates the diverter hold. That’s all I got.

#7141 2 years ago

Solenoid list, p2 (inside of cover), Sol. No 16 Diverter Hold

Fuse list 1-45, Power Drive Board F104 Solenoid #9-#16 3A, 250V, S.B

#7142 2 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

Solenoid list, p2 (inside of cover), Sol. No 16 Diverter Hold
Fuse list 1-45, Power Drive Board F104 Solenoid #9-#16 3A, 250V, S.B

Awesome thanks for the help!

#7143 2 years ago

Finally (accidentally) hit the 5-way combo at the start of a new game the other evening...it scores 30 million and gives a little chime.

sequence as such:

left ramp, ball is fed to right flipper by diverter;
left ramp, ball is fed to left flipper via ramp;
right ramp, ball is fed back to left flipper;
right ramp, ball is fed back to left flipper;
right ramp again to lock ball and award the 5 way combo.

Keep in mind, that the state of the game may only make this combo possible at certain times (as having any of the skills lit would prevent the diverter from bringing the ball over to the right ramp, etc.)

#7144 2 years ago

Nice work, I have never seen the combo yet! I wonder if it’s possible after the lock too? Or only starting when no skills are awarded

#7145 2 years ago

Hi all, I was having trouble with my magnet save but found it was a blown fuse. I went to play it again and the fuse blew again. I have heard the issue is the length of the magma save but I can’t seem how to adjust the time for the magnet hold under the menu settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#7146 2 years ago

Also, when I start my game the soccer ball spins for a super long time before stopping. Is this normal? Is there a way to turn off the soccer ball when I’m not playing the game? Thanks all!

#7147 2 years ago
Quoted from FieldDog1:

Hi all, I was having trouble with my magnet save but found it was a blown fuse. I went to play it again and the fuse blew again. I have heard the issue is the length of the magma save but I can’t seem how to adjust the time for the magnet hold under the menu settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I thought there was a ball motor setting but quick glance couldn't find it. The Magnasave setting though seems to be A.2 31 in this manual

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/W/World_Cup_Soccer_OPS.pdf

#7148 2 years ago

Soccer ball spins whenever the goal is lit...so right from the start of your first ball until you make it. Then starts again when the goal is lit gain by rolling over the four rollover buttons. Can be annoying when small children are playing, and they walk away mid game, leaving the ball spinning for a loooonnnnggggg time.

#7149 2 years ago

The magna save can often times be traced to a short in the wiring for it; if I recall, it's ganged up with a bunch of other things and you have to be sure a single strand isn't touching something else, though that could be the wiring for the target that enables it...been a while since I dealt with an issue with the magnet.

#7150 2 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Soccer ball spins whenever the goal is lit...so right from the start of your first ball until you make it. Then starts again when the goal is lit gain by rolling over the four rollover buttons. Can be annoying when small children are playing, and they walk away mid game, leaving the ball spinning for a loooonnnnggggg time.

Sorry should have clarified, when I power on the machine, the ball spins before I even start to play for a super long time. Is that normal when you boot the game?

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