(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 8,472 posts
  • 739 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by AlexRogan84
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_5058 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9196 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9195 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9194 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9193 (resized).jpeg
diverter assembly world cup (resized).png
Screenshot_20240206-183630 (resized).png
PXL_20240206_021502397~3 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240206_021438171 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240206_021337603~2 (resized).jpg
IMG_2156 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2156 (resized).jpeg
20240126_183106~2 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240126_231544_Photos (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240126_231433_Photos (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240121-145234 (resized).png

There are 8,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 140 of 170.
#6951 2 years ago
Quoted from Tablewicked:

Never had to clean it before, but I would try taking the ball off the playfield and spay with simple green and lightly scrub with a magic eraser. I would be cautious around the black parts, it might remove the black lines. Good luck!

I have not had any luck removing the marking from my soccer ball with any of the products described. Has anyone tried a very fine wet rub sandpaper?

#6952 2 years ago
Quoted from Andypc:

Were there two different version of the original playfield? My new CPR playfield has a much lighter purple. I know the lighter purple matches some peoples original playfields, but my original playfield has a much deeper more vivid purple like in the pictures above.

So, I am looking at that CPR playfield online as I type and am wondering what you think of the clearcoat on it? I am concerned its gonna be soft or just kinda meh. Any thoughts on yours would be appreciated!

#6953 2 years ago
Quoted from martymart:

I have not had any luck removing the marking from my soccer ball with any of the products described. Has anyone tried a very fine wet rub sandpaper?

If Simple Green and Magic Eraser doesn't remove it...well, I'd be careful with anything stronger. Simple Green takes ALL the black off my ball. And Magic Eraser is like superfine sandpaper. I'd be curious as to how many different replacement balls are out there, and how they're made differently.

#6954 2 years ago

I've read a heap of this thread when I've had spare time and I haven't come across something I'd like to know yet.

When I shoot the loop, it never actually stops and goes in the lanes up the top so I think the gate or whatever it's called doesn't close low enough. Is that something others have experienced?

I am working through a couple of other things, but won't ask until I spend some more time trying to work them out first.

#6955 2 years ago

Well let's be sure of a few things. First, that gate only stops the ball when a city is not blinking. Secondly, I believe it is a magnet diverter that lifts up that mech to allow balls to pass through. Not a ton of technology happening there. Check for a loose wire and go from there. If you see it is diverting on the test menu, then see if the gate can be manually adjusted to make it so the ball does get stopped by it when in the down position.

#6956 2 years ago

The ball should always stop in the top lanes of the left loop is NOT lit for travel.

I would start by testing that gate coil to make sure it’s working then go from there.

#6957 2 years ago

So for anyone with a CPR backglass what trim did you use. Just received mine and the WPC trim doesn’t fit

#6958 2 years ago
Quoted from colocole:

Bump, I’m looking for speaker grills as well?

Any sources of soccer ball speaker grills?

#6959 2 years ago
Quoted from colocole:

Any sources of soccer ball speaker grills?

Me too

#6960 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The ball should always stop in the top lanes of the left loop is NOT lit for travel.
I would start by testing that gate coil to make sure it’s working then go from there.

I tried to have a look. It's difficult to see so I assume that means pull a heap apart to get to it. I did find that the spring wasn't sitting correctly and have moved it but it hasn't helped. The gate thing is low enough for the ball to hit it, but it but bends back out of the way stretching the spring enough for it to get through. Not sure if I need a tighter spring or if something else is going on. I'll have to look further.

#6961 2 years ago

Just joined the club, and happy to be here! Though my machine needs work, I plan to bring it back to like-new glory

I've already replaced some scorched connectors on the PDB, and am debating replacing it. The PDB and DMD board both have some especially noticeable scorches and hacks, so might as well bite the bullet. Pinball Basement had a 1 replacement PDB, so I'm gonna try that. I woulda got the DMD but it was out of stock. Also picked up an NVRAM.

Figure before I start tackling any cosmetic stuff, best to get it working 100%.

Repairing the scorched connectors brought the GI back to life, and fixing a broken wire got the flashers flashing again. Next thing to tackle are the weak coils all over.

We'll get there! I can post some images later on, but happy to be part of the group. Cheers!

#6962 2 years ago

Just saying how much the boston tea party makes me smile each time I see striker chugging the tea

#6963 2 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Just saying how much the boston tea party makes me smile each time I see striker chugging the tea

I don't believe he is drinking tea

#6964 2 years ago
Quoted from rockwell:

I woulda got the DMD but it was out of stock.

You can get the PinSound DMD board.
https://www.pinsound.org/dmdlux/

#6965 2 years ago

Will give that a look, thanks for the recommendation.

#6966 2 years ago
Quoted from wombat:

I don't believe he is drinking tea

If that is the case, I expect to see animations of a drunken Striker streaking across the field or groping people in the stands at some point in the game.

#6967 2 years ago

I have an error onthe display preventing me from starting a game that mentions j112 and f115 & f116 fuses all of which look fine. When I go into test mode the goalie drive motor and neither the ball motor do anything when I try and run them in test mode. Any suggestions? Everything else works normally in test mode.

#6968 2 years ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I have an error onthe display preventing me from starting a game that mentions j112 and f115 & f116 fuses all of which look fine. When I go into test mode the goalie drive motor and neither the ball motor do anything when I try and run them in test mode. Any suggestions? Everything else works normally in test mode.

Never trust just looking at the fuse to see if it’s good, you should pull the fuse out of the holder and check continuity with a multimeter.

#6969 2 years ago

Anyone else decide to remove the "anti biff" bars under their flippers? I took mine out because I hated how the ball would just clunk it's way over them and behind the flippers.

#6970 2 years ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I have an error onthe display preventing me from starting a game that mentions j112 and f115 & f116 fuses all of which look fine. When I go into test mode the goalie drive motor and neither the ball motor do anything when I try and run them in test mode. Any suggestions? Everything else works normally in test mode.

check bridge rectifiers....one of them is bad.

#6971 2 years ago
Quoted from thc666:

check bridge rectifiers....one of them is bad.

Check your flashers, too. May be your 20volt bridge rectifier? That usually controls "flashers and motors."

#6972 2 years ago

I have a couple questions about upgrading the ROM on my game. First, I'm wanting to upgrade to the version which has a fix for the LED ghosting issue, version D-2. Can I pull the the existing chip, erase it, burn it, then reinstall it? Or is the existing chip too small and I'll need a bigger one? I've read before that an existing chip was too small for an upgrade, so a larger storage chip was necessary.

Second, in the manual it shows that the ROM should be at U6 and is labeled "Game ROM Assembly". But in my game there is no chip installed at U6. However, there is a chip at U25, but the manual labels U25 as just Socket IC 32 P .6". In this case is my ROM located at U25? Is that the correct chip to pull and then burn? What's strange is that even though the ROM is installed at U25, the paper label on it says U6...

Screen Shot 2021-08-17 at 1.56.30 PM.pngScreen Shot 2021-08-17 at 1.56.30 PM.png
IMG_4284.jpgIMG_4284.jpg

#6973 2 years ago

Thoughts on sound upgrades to this machine? I have several 90s with FF and PinballPro but this one doesn't strike me that it needs a ton given it is mid 90s...

Time

#6974 2 years ago

Flippers just stopped working tonight. Turned the machine on, and just no activation, either side. Turned off, back on, same. Any thoughts on potential root cause?

#6975 2 years ago

Check your fuses....!

#6976 2 years ago

Wife loves this game, and I’m more than happy to get one for our collection. I am going to check one out for a possible trade, are there any major areas of concern I should check for (I.e. ramps, plastics, toys that are unobtanium, or known mechanical problem areas)?

Thanks in advance, really hoping to join the club!

#6977 2 years ago

Looking for some help. I thought I'd worked these problems out but I ordered parts and have replaced them and the problems are still there.

Firstly, when I start a game, it puts a ball into the shooter lane followed by another a second or two later. I can't play a game as it wants to spit out an extra ball at the start of each game and then gets confused during game play. When testing from the menu, the optos in the trough for ball 1, 2, 3 and 4 all read the same way, open when there is no ball and closed when there is (I might have that arsed about but I think that's right) but ball 5 says closed and stays that way. I tried swapping optos around on the boards which I had read somewhere helped someone out but it didn't help. I have replaced both opto boards for the trough now but the problem is exactly the same. Testing the shooter lane switch and it operates as expected so I don't know what could be causing the problem. Anyone got any suggestions?

My next problem is that the scoop for TV/Final Draw doesn't recognise when a ball goes into it. When I first turn the game on, the solenoid for this scoop fires 6 or 7 times which I'm guessing is a sign that it thinks there is a ball there and it's trying to kick it out. In testing the optos from the menu it doesn't change if there is a ball dropped into the scoop or not. I figured the only thing here that could detect a ball being in there would be the optos so I replaced them but the problem is exactly the same. Once again, anyone got suggestions?

I'd really appreciate thoughts on what to test or even diagnosis from those that know or have had the same problem(s). This was a grail pin for me but unfortunately it only worked for a little while before I encountered problems. I've got to add LED's, Cliffys and mirror blades to it yet, but am holding off on that as I want to know that it's playing properly before I pull it down to replace bits.

I've read many pages of this thread but still many more to read. It's an awesome thread, it's just so big.

#6978 2 years ago

You may have divots in your ball trough, if all the optos truly test okay. Double check that they're all good. You can either file the divots out of the trough yourself, or simply buy a trough repair sleeve that fixes it for you if you don't want to hassle with it.

The tv scoop is obvious. The emitter isn't working. You can test this by using your cell phone camera to see if you can see a light coming from it. Check for a lose wire or flat out replace it. You can tell it is the emitter, probably, because the game thinks the ball is blocking the light by trying to kick it out over and over.

#6979 2 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

You may have divots in your ball trough, if all the optos truly test okay. Double check that they're all good. You can either file the divots out of the trough yourself, or simply buy a trough repair sleeve that fixes it for you if you don't want to hassle with it.
The tv scoop is obvious. The emitter isn't working. You can test this by using your cell phone camera to see if you can see a light coming from it. Check for a lose wire or flat out replace it.

I have installed one of those plastic sleeve things. It doesn't seem to help. Is what you mean?

I'll have to trace the wiring I think. I replaced both the emitter and receiver.

#6980 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

I have installed one of those plastic sleeve things. It doesn't seem to help. Is what you mean?
I'll have to trace the wiring I think. I replaced both the emitter and receiver.

I am SO sorry. I didnt read the part of the ball trough that 5 wasnt working. Yep, you'll need to get that fixed. Maybe a wire somewhere in the chain broken somewhere?

#6981 2 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

I am SO sorry. I didnt read the part of the ball trough that 5 wasnt working. Yep, you'll need to get that fixed. Maybe a wire somewhere in the chain broken somewhere?

Thanks. I guess checking the wiring is going to have to happen. Sounds like a bother.

#6982 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

Thanks. I guess checking the wiring is going to have to happen. Sounds like a bother.

It can be annoying for sure but rewarding if you can find the issue. I had a freddy that someone removed or cut a wire off a flasher and tucked it into the center of a larger harness. Looking at it, it looked ok and there appeared to be nothing wrong. It wasn't till I checked continuity that I noticed there was none and started really looking at the wire. Follow the wires coming off to where they go and see if you have continuity from one connection to the next. That will tell you if there is a break somewhere. Then its up to you to follow every inch of the wire looking for breaks.

#6983 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

Thanks. I guess checking the wiring is going to have to happen. Sounds like a bother.

Trough 5 and the TV ball popper switch are adjacent to each other in the switch matrix. Check your diodes and trace out each switch in that row (look at switch matrix to find other switches in that row) to make sure there’s not a break or bad diode along the way.

#6984 2 years ago

Hey guys so I seem to have a soccer ball that spins out of control if left spinning for a while. Once it warms up. It almost looks as though its spinning faster than it should be and that its loose on the spindle despite the lock bolts being tight that secure the plate to the gearbox spindle. Any ideas? I could record a video if that helps.

#6985 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Trough 5 and the TV ball popper switch are adjacent to each other in the switch matrix. Check your diodes and trace out each switch in that row (look at switch matrix to find other switches in that row) to make sure there’s not a break or bad diode along the way.

I'm not sure what that all means. I'll have to try and work it out.

The trough problem has been resolved fortunately. I had someone tell me to do a test of all switches which I did and found that the Free Kick switch wasn't working correctly. A closer look found a damaged wire which I trimmed and resoldered.

The TV Ball Popper is still a problem. I've tested the wiring back to the board and it is fine. I have replaced with new parts the emitter and receiver... not sure what's going one but I'll get there.

#6986 2 years ago

Here's my next question which is related to the TV scoop problem.

With regards to the emitter opto, what should the voltage reading be when the opto is active? I have 12 volts at the opto controller board. I tested and had 12 volts at the other end of the wire.. so far so good. I connect the wire to the opto itself, 12 volts still there. I connect the black wire to the other side of the opto and the voltage drop to 1.5(ish) volts.

If I go into the switch test, disconnect the emitter and shine a torch through to the receiver, I can get the switch to read as close. If I look at the emitter with a camera I can see that it illuminates.

Is what I'm seeing normal and I'm barking up the wrong tree or is there a problem there?

#6987 2 years ago

Hey all, we're in lockdown here in Melbourne and my 7 year old has decided he wants to be the next Jack Danger. So we've started "streaming" pinball and today we pulled the covers off WCS94. Aimed towards a younger audience but hopefully its still worth a look to the older folk.

Please take a look, show your kids, subscribe and make my sons day.

8th Episode
29th August 2021
Melbourne Lockdown 6.0
Bally's World Cup Soccer 94'

#6988 2 years ago

Fun fact about the game’s rules I discovered by accident today:
After completing the 5-light ball in the middle and then shoot for the lock in either ramp, if somehow the ball escapes the lock magnet (by passing by it too fast or too early), then all three lights (2 “lock” and the “final draw”) start blinking.
When I hit the “final draw” lock in this situation, a two-ball multiball game started instead of a 3-ball multiball!!!
Which means that the game is aware that it failed to lock the first ball, and tries to make amends by enabling you to start multiball with one less ball! That is amazing programming!

Has anyone shot for the “lock” light (at the ramps) instead of the “final draw” in this situation?
I really want to know if it also starts a 2-ball multiball in this case, because it is very hard to reproduce the incidence of the ball not pulled by the lock magnet…

#6989 2 years ago
Quoted from provato:

That is amazing programming!

Code by Larry DeMar. He’s a legend.

#6990 2 years ago
Quoted from provato:

Fun fact about the game’s rules I discovered by accident today:
After completing the 5-light ball in the middle and then shoot for the lock in either ramp, if somehow the ball escapes the lock magnet (by passing by it too fast or too early), then all three lights (2 “lock” and the “final draw”) start blinking.
When I hit the “final draw” lock in this situation, a two-ball multiball game started instead of a 3-ball multiball!!!
Which means that the game is aware that it failed to lock the first ball, and tries to make amends by enabling you to start multiball with one less ball! That is amazing programming!
Has anyone shot for the “lock” light (at the ramps) instead of the “final draw” in this situation?
I really want to know if it also starts a 2-ball multiball in this case, because it is very hard to reproduce the incidence of the ball not pulled by the lock magnet…

It will just lock the ball again. Once the ball is physically locked, you can start the 3 ball MB at the scoop. This compensation also occurs when in a multiplayer game and a player clears the locked ball.

#6991 2 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey all, we're in lockdown here in Melbourne and my 7 year old has decided he wants to be the next Jack Danger. So we've started "streaming" pinball and today we pulled the covers off WCS94. Aimed towards a younger audience but hopefully its still worth a look to the older folk.
Please take a look, show your kids, subscribe and make my sons day.
8th Episode
29th August 2021
Melbourne Lockdown 6.0
Bally's World Cup Soccer 94'

I hope he takes my spot soon! Haha❤️
Looks great!!
If you need any streaming help, hit me up!

#6992 2 years ago
Quoted from DeadFlip:

I hope he takes my spot soon! Haha❤️
Looks great!!
If you need any streaming help, hit me up!

Your reply will make his day!! Thanks Jack, love your work!!!

#6993 2 years ago

Please excuse this rookie question. I think I know the answer but want confirmation.

The yellow/grey wire in this harness was sitting like this when I checked. Is it meant to wrap around and press into another slot? I would expect that it is meant to only be connected to one spot on the harness, but the way that it is sitting makes it look like it's meant to bend around and press into a 2nd place.

Can someone please tell me where it is meant to connect for sure? Currently, it only connects to the 12v pin on the outside. The second pin marked 12v doesn't have anything connected nor does Key (but I think there is no pin there anyway.

This is on the opto board that connects to the trough opto boards.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image2 (resized).pngpasted_image2 (resized).pngpasted_image3 (resized).pngpasted_image3 (resized).png
#6994 2 years ago

Just bought a WCS from an operator. The game is filthy among a laundry list of issues. The ball gets pinched by the diverter and it takes a ball search to free it.

Another issue being operator had fooled around with these games while loading, and he let the fliptronics board dangle in the backbox. None of us noticed and when we turned it on the game was totally dead and some sparks flew. We realized the board was shorting directly against the grounded backbox and reseated it. Game turned on and played without issue but now The left flipper won’t hold any more. It just double flips every time you press the button. The left slingshot doesn’t work either, however I neglected to check if it was working prior to pickup so this may or may not be part of the issue.

#6995 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

It just double flips every time you press the button.

Every double flip issue I’ve had was the coil. Specifically a cross on the tiny strands coming from the coil into the three different terminals. I would check to see if you have a cross or just replace your coil.

#6996 2 years ago
Quoted from Riefepeters:

Every double flip issue I’ve had was the coil. Specifically a cross on the tiny strands coming from the coil into the three different terminals. I would check to see if you have a cross or just replace your coil.

But no hold power at all?

The coil is pretty sketchy, the operator did the old “cut the wire to the coil and just tie them together instead of solder it back to the coil tab”

#6997 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

The left flipper won’t hold any more. It just double flips every time you press the button.

Yeah, that's the common sign that the hold part of the coil isn't working. Usually broken wire, but in your case, since the Fliptronics board was loose and shorted, the transistor for that hold coil should be blown.

#6998 2 years ago
Quoted from mastercello:

Check your fuses....!

Which fuses should I be testing? Looks like 101 and 102. Is that correct?

1 week later
#6999 2 years ago
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:

Please excuse this rookie question. I think I know the answer but want confirmation.
The yellow/grey wire in this harness was sitting like this when I checked. Is it meant to wrap around and press into another slot? I would expect that it is meant to only be connected to one spot on the harness, but the way that it is sitting makes it look like it's meant to bend around and press into a 2nd place.
Can someone please tell me where it is meant to connect for sure? Currently, it only connects to the 12v pin on the outside. The second pin marked 12v doesn't have anything connected nor does Key (but I think there is no pin there anyway.
This is on the opto board that connects to the trough opto boards.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Late answer, but no--that gray-yellow wire does not wrap around to anything.

#7000 2 years ago

would be really neat if someone made a soccer ball pinball for this machine

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 50.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
Armor and blades
$ 219.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Lit Frames
Decorations
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
9,151 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Littleton, CO
$ 70.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
Protection
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 58.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 199.00
Playfields
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Playfields
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
Decals
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
Decorations
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
Other
$ 9.00
Cabinet - Other
Mooshue's Market
Other
From: $ 6.00
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 7,795.00
Pinball Machine
Maine Home Recreation
Pinball Machine
$ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 79.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Arcade Upkeep
Under cabinet
$ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Twisted Tokens
Toys/Add-ons
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
10,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Roselle, IL
$ 29.99
Electronics
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Electronics
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 5.00
Playfield - Plastics
UpKick Pinball
Plastics
There are 8,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 140 of 170.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/140?hl=dantesmark and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.