(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

8 years ago

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There are 6847 posts in this topic. You are on page 137 of 137.
#6801 20 days ago

I am having an issue with no power to the coin door / coin rejector lamps. Anyone have a photo they can share of the J119 connector. I believe this is in the correct location but not sure. Fuse seems fine. Thank you.

#6802 20 days ago
Quoted from dugmar:

I am having an issue with no power to the coin door / coin rejector lamps. Anyone have a photo they can share of the J119 connector. I believe this is in the correct location but not sure. Fuse seems fine. Thank you.

No pic at the moment, but J119-1 should have a white-violet wire; J119-2 is empty; J119-3 should have a violet wire

How does your coin door interface PCB look? Try re-seating the cables (particularly J2, J3, and J5)

#6803 20 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

No pic at the moment, but J119-1 should have a white-violet wire; J119-2 is empty; J119-3 should have a violet wire
How does your coin door interface PCB look? Try re-seating the cables (particularly J2, J3, and J5)

White-viloet is correct on j119-1
I will dig into the PCB for coin door. Thank you.

#6804 19 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:No pic at the moment, but J119-1 should have a white-violet wire; J119-2 is empty; J119-3 should have a violet wire
How does your coin door interface PCB look? Try re-seating the cables (particularly J2, J3, and J5)

thanks to you I narrowed it down to J5. Removing this connector and plugging back did not help, but if I flex the connector, it seems to help. Seems like I may have a loose solder joint here. Thoughts?

#6805 19 days ago
Quoted from dugmar:

thanks to you I narrowed it down to J5. Removing this connector and plugging back did not help, but if I flex the connector, it seems to help. Seems like I may have a loose solder joint here. Thoughts?

glad you narrowed it down--do the J5 pins on the board look straight? if not, try straightening them so that the connector is properly flexed

#6806 19 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

glad you narrowed it down--do the J5 pins on the board look straight? if not, try straightening them so that the connector is properly flexed

Yes, perfectly straight

#6807 19 days ago

I bet the flip side of that pin has a cold solder joint from nearly 30 years of vibration and heat. From my experience, when things turn on and off from giving a connector the ol' "shimmy-shimmy", it's that there is either a burnt connector, or a cold joint on the pin. Or, the wire itself has pulled slightly out of the connector and needs to be reseated with a small flathead screwdriver, or the actual tool thingy used to punch down wires into the connector.

#6808 15 days ago

Hi can somebody here of the wcs94 owners give me tips i want to have my wireramp and cointoss redone with the gold finish again , what will be the price i will be looking at for this ?

Kind regards

#6809 15 days ago
Quoted from boiydiego:

Hi can somebody here of the wcs94 owners give me tips i want to have my wireramp and cointoss redone with the gold finish again , what will be the price i will be looking at for this ?
Kind regards

Not sure on who to have it done yourself; but these guys will do a swap (prices on the site): https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts

#6810 15 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Not sure on who to have it done yourself; but these guys will do a swap (prices on the site): https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts

In December, I used Pinball Plating to exchange the long ramp, the coin toss entry, the two plates on the right and left of the coin toss entry and the apron wire and it was about $340. They look great!

WCS-453 (resized).jpgWCS-454 (resized).jpg
#6811 15 days ago

To be honest, I had no clue the coin toss and ramps were even supposed to be brass. It had flaked off on all of the tables I'd played--including the one I'd bought. Wasn't until after ownership that I realized it. I kind of prefer it without.

#6812 15 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

In December, I used Pinball Plating to exchange the long ramp, the coin toss entry, the two plates on the right and left of the coin toss entry and the apron wire and it was about $340. They look great![quoted image][quoted image]

Considering adding those side blades. How do they look in person? Do they enhance or detract from the game? Thanks.

#6813 14 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Considering adding those side blades. How do they look in person? Do they enhance or detract from the game?

I like side blades on my machines. I think they add a lot to the overall looks of the machine. If you buy a set you also need to purchase a Interior Cabinet Game Blade Protector Set which Pinball Life sells for $35. You need the protectors for when you raise & lower the playfield to work on it. Without the protectors you will get small tears in the side blades over time.

Side Art Protectors (resized).jpg
#6814 13 days ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

I like side blades on my machines. I think they add a lot to the overall looks of the machine. If you buy a set you also need to purchase a Interior Cabinet Game Blade Protector Set which Pinball Life sells for $35. You need the protectors for when you raise & lower the playfield to work on it. Without the protectors you will get small tears in the side blades over time.[quoted image]

Yes, definitely buy the protectors from pinball life. I do not do anything on any of my games until I put them in place.

I really like these game blades. They brighten up the game (as well as the spots I added). They fit well into the theme.

#6815 13 days ago

I got some serious ramp damage on the top left. Anyone got a nice used one? It's going on route so doesn't need to be perfect. Thanks!

IMG_5972 (resized).jpg

#6816 11 days ago

Hello fellow doggie soccer owners.
I shipped my machine and once it arrived several cables were pulled off in the back box bent pins on the board etc.
long story short, after finally getting everything in place solenoids 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 did not work. After fiddling with reseating cables bending pins and soldering a half broken wire the game now boots without errors. (It never gave errors for the solenoids).

When starting a game it would not serve me a ball to the shooter lane. Now I have gotten so far as it will serve a ball but it will not serve ball 2 (or ball one for player 2). Ball search does not kick it out either.

It seems I can only make the game give me a ball if it has been powered off for about 2-3 minutes.

I’ve had suggested it could be a fuse, but can the really be true when it does give me the first ball? I’m asking since removing all the fuses is very difficult, they are sitting in place very very tight and I’m afraid to break them. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

#6817 11 days ago
Quoted from Qasper:

Hello fellow doggie soccer owners.
I shipped my machine and once it arrived several cables were pulled off in the back box bent pins on the board etc.
long story short, after finally getting everything in place solenoids 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 did not work. After fiddling with reseating cables bending pins and soldering a half broken wire the game now boots without errors. (It never gave errors for the solenoids).
When starting a game it would not serve me a ball to the shooter lane. Now I have gotten so far as it will serve a ball but it will not serve ball 2 (or ball one for player 2). Ball search does not kick it out either.
It seems I can only make the game give me a ball if it has been powered off for about 2-3 minutes.
I’ve had suggested it could be a fuse, but can the really be true when it does give me the first ball? I’m asking since removing all the fuses is very difficult, they are sitting in place very very tight and I’m afraid to break them. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Check the wiring to your opto sensors in the ball trough--particularly where the ball drains; and check the cables on the opto board. Also clean the opto sensors themselves with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol.

#6818 11 days ago

I don’t believe I have an issue with optos since the coils won’t fire in test. The ball also ends when it drains and the game continues to player 2. Sorry if I was not clear, I don’t have much knowledge when it comes to electrical issues. During ball search the high power coils also doesn’t fire

#6819 11 days ago
Quoted from Qasper:

I don’t believe I have an issue with optos since the coils won’t fire in test. The ball also ends when it drains and the game continues to player 2. Sorry if I was not clear, I don’t have much knowledge when it comes to electrical issues. During ball search the high power coils also doesn’t fire

OK thanks; agreed it's not likely an opto issue--so the high power coils (01 through 08) still don't fire? Do the flashers work?

#6820 10 days ago

I'm not exactly sure what the flashers are. I've figured out now that if I hold down the interlock switches near the coindoor while i perform the test only 03 and 04 does not fire. It's the kickback and the lock release. The wires doesn't look to be damaged, and I don't really know what to do from here.

#6821 10 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

In December, I used Pinball Plating to exchange the long ramp, the coin toss entry, the two plates on the right and left of the coin toss entry and the apron wire and it was about $340. They look great![quoted image][quoted image]

I still need to do this, plus other various trim pieces. I have brass legs, rails, and a lock bar from them installed on mine. Some don't like it but I LOVE the brass look on WCS.

#6822 10 days ago
Quoted from Qasper:

I'm not exactly sure what the flashers are. I've figured out now that if I hold down the interlock switches near the coindoor while i perform the test only 03 and 04 does not fire. It's the kickback and the lock release. The wires doesn't look to be damaged, and I don't really know what to do from here.

Try posting a standalone thread. It will get more visibility that way; if the issues are with the boards/transistors, then people with general WPC89 knowledge can help.

#6823 10 days ago

Just joined the club and in search of this plastic anyone know where to get it?

image_62270_1_600x600 (resized).jpg
#6824 9 days ago

Haven't been in this thread in awhile...love this game. I've had a "hard start" Rottendog driver board in here for a long time (sometimes a normal boot, sometimes it seemed to pass the check circuit in the MPU board and fire with a wham, occasionally blowing a main fuse.

Lost a fuse on the fliptronics board awhile back. Changed and got a loud hum. Immediately powered off, thinking locked transistor or something...

Long story short - I've changed the CPU-S board, went w 2 different driver boards ( a good Rottendog and a new Pinballbasement) and get the below error. Fuses are good.

Game wedged way back in a corner, so hoping I'm missing something easy, as pita to move 4 games to get this one to the shop and can't pop the top in current position.

Replaced ribbon cables, had put molex connectors on awhile back, so believe cabling in good. Exact error message w both driver boards, so have to believe something else... Any ideas? Thx

WCS050121 (resized).jpg

#6825 9 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Haven't been in this thread in awhile...love this game. I've had a "hard start" Rottendog driver board in here for a long time (sometimes a normal boot, sometimes it seemed to pass the check circuit in the MPU board and fire with a wham, occasionally blowing a main fuse.
Lost a fuse on the fliptronics board awhile back. Changed and got a loud hum. Immediately powered off, thinking locked transistor or something...
Long story short - I've changed the CPU-S board, went w 2 different driver boards ( a good Rottendog and a new Pinballbasement) and get the below error. Fuses are good.
Game wedged way back in a corner, so hoping I'm missing something easy, as pita to move 4 games to get this one to the shop and can't pop the top in current position.
Replaced ribbon cables, had put molex connectors on awhile back, so believe cabling in good. Exact error message w both driver boards, so have to believe something else... Any ideas? Thx
[quoted image]

A couple threads with different issues on this error:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-check-fuses-f115-f116-j112-and-opto-12v-supply

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/check-fuses-f115-f116-j112-and-opto-12v-on-jm

Could be a fuse, could be your u20 chip, could be poorly/incorrectly seated cables or moles connectors.

#6826 9 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

A couple threads with different issues on this error:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-check-fuses-f115-f116-j112-and-opto-12v-supply
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/check-fuses-f115-f116-j112-and-opto-12v-on-jm
Could be a fuse, could be your u20 chip, could be poorly/incorrectly seated cables or moles connectors.

Good stuff...problem has persisted w 2 different driver boards ( always have a spare)..so sniffing around the CPU....thx

#6827 9 days ago

WCS is my 2nd longest game on location.
I just would like to replace the ramps someday as the divertor smacked part of the ramp off...

#6828 9 days ago

WCS was my first grail game and one that I can't even fathom letting loose of. I dream of finishing all the brass pieces on it someday.

#6829 9 days ago

Dumb question here. Is the ball ever supposed to spin counter-clockwise? If so, what triggers it to go that way?

#6830 9 days ago
Quoted from MLmotorsport:

Dumb question here. Is the ball ever supposed to spin counter-clockwise? If so, what triggers it to go that way?

when u get to finals against Germany.

#6831 9 days ago
Quoted from thc666:

when u get to finals against Germany.

Thanks! Just doing some troubleshooting on a new-to-me WCS94 so that helps.

#6832 8 days ago

I just picked up this game.Very happy with it,fam loves it .
I can tell the goalie isn’t gonna last especially after rebuilding the flippers so was looking at replacements
Can anyone speak to the metal one with the new shape goalie?
I see Marco has the plastic and sticker
Thanks

#6833 7 days ago

I bought a hard plastic keeper in the original shape. I'm guessing it will last for years.

#6834 6 days ago
Quoted from thc666:

when u get to finals against Germany.

Or, in my case, whenever it's spinning except for the World Cup Final.....because it was wired backwards. Definitely makes the game interesting.

There's got to be a way to wire in a switch to change this around on the fly. I'll get around to it someday.

#6835 6 days ago
Quoted from InsideOutlane:

Or, in my case, whenever it's spinning except for the World Cup Final.....because it was wired backwards. Definitely makes the game interesting.
There's got to be a way to wire in a switch to change this around on the fly. I'll get around to it someday.

Hahaha I had my soccer ball wired backwards for years. Never realized it until I was watching a video of it on a tournament or something.

#6836 6 days ago

After 5 days of ownership really digging this game
Favorite shot so far- left orbit out into the kick back,kick back into the spinning soccer ball off the right post just past the goalies left arm for the goal
Magical love it

#6837 3 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hahaha I had my soccer ball wired backwards for years. Never realized it until I was watching a video of it on a tournament or something.

How much did it change the gameplay after you switched it?

#6838 3 days ago
Quoted from InsideOutlane:

How much did it change the gameplay after you switched it?

The biggest difference is that if you get a outlane kickback when you have goal lit the pinball can get thrown up towards the goal instead of down towards the flippers.

#6839 2 days ago

Considering converting to LEDs. Anyone have experience with the non-ghosting ones Tilt sells? Does non-ghosting mean you don’t need an OCD board to prevent the crazy fast flicker rate? Does anything major need to be disassembled to replace all of these lights? Thanks for any input!

#6840 2 days ago

Shoutout to MBELOFSKY for hooking me up with extra ramps, plastics, posts, soccer ball, etc to get my WCS ready for route!
You rock!

#6841 2 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Considering converting to LEDs. Anyone have experience with the non-ghosting ones Tilt sells? Does non-ghosting mean you don’t need an OCD board to prevent the crazy fast flicker rate? Does anything major need to be disassembled to replace all of these lights? Thanks for any input!

I bought Comet Non Ghosting and Like them. I do not have a LED OCD board in my game. I can get a video if you'd like, but that doesn't always work because of the cameras rate vs. the LED.

Chris

#6842 2 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Considering converting to LEDs. Anyone have experience with the non-ghosting ones Tilt sells? Does non-ghosting mean you don’t need an OCD board to prevent the crazy fast flicker rate? Does anything major need to be disassembled to replace all of these lights? Thanks for any input!

Comets non ghosting are the same price or cheaper. I’d get those.

I didn’t have OCD boards in my game and it was fine. Turn off the GI dimming setting too after switching over.

#6843 2 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Considering converting to LEDs. Anyone have experience with the non-ghosting ones Tilt sells? Does non-ghosting mean you don’t need an OCD board to prevent the crazy fast flicker rate? Does anything major need to be disassembled to replace all of these lights? Thanks for any input!

Agreed with chuckwurt on Comet. Those are the way to go with any LED conversion. But I don't have any non-ghosting bulbs in mine and eventually got LED OCD and GI OCD boards. The difference was apparent, and there were some effects that I didn't see without the OCD boards (e.g. lights dimming on an assist goal). Since I have never seen non-ghosting bulbs in this game, I have no clue if that happens with them.

But you don't want to mix non-ghosting bulbs with OCD boards.

Most of the bulbs on here can be accessed without significant fuss. The Ultra Jet area can be a bit of a pain if I recall.

#6844 2 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Since I have never seen non-ghosting bulbs in this game, I have no clue if that happens with them.

There’s no dimming of any kind that occurs in the game with LEDs and no OCD boards.

#6845 2 days ago

I think I win some sort of award.

IMG_20210508_181249016.jpg
#6846 2 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

WCS was my first grail game and one that I can't even fathom letting loose of. I dream of finishing all the brass pieces on it someday.

There's only one grail right?

#6847 1 day ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

I think I win some sort of award.
[quoted image]

Ha! And just what would we call this award?
The: "I can't believe it!" Award or perhaps
The: "Are you kidding me" Award

There are 6847 posts in this topic. You are on page 137 of 137.

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