That lock magnet is vicious.

It does snatch that ball pretty hard. Even impressively off of a fast clean right ramp lock shot. Its always pleasing to watch it get close and then just come to a shaking stop in an instant!

One of my top 5 lock shots in pinball

New WCS owner here, im trying to clean up the spinning soccer ball. Can someone help me with removing the spinning plate? I have removed the rubber soccer ball, removed motor (2 screws) and removed the 4 screws holding the base on the underside. But I cant remove the metal spinning disc from the axel. I have attached a picture to show what I am trying to remove. I wedged a flathead screwdriver between the underside and the metal bracket, but I didnt want to force anything. I think I am missing something. Thanks for any help.

-Gary;

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I have never taken mine apart.... but as with all other motors in games... i would assume there would be a set screw on the shaft holding the plate on. The 2 circles on the post in the diagram would be where they are.

You are right, i didnt take notice cause they dont have regular screw heads. Also, someone broke off the torx head inside one of them, i will have to figure that one out. Thanks for the info.

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ugh....that sucks!! Im surprised they got a torx in there! Good luck getting it out.

Yeah, isn't it a hex bit? Likely why it snapped. :/

I wonder if there is enough space to get a dental tool in there to wiggle it out. You know the sharp thing they scrape your teeth with?

Hey all! Just traded for World Cup Soccer yesterday and have a couple of questions.

My header-save left-outlane kickback thing works, but somewhat frequently doesn't make it back to the playfield. The plastic rod of the kickback is pretty beat up. Maybe something with the coil too? Any thoughts on where to start?

Is there a list of the bulbs needed and where they go? Mine has a mix of LEDs and incandescent bulbs. I don't really want to buy a kit because it seems a little wasteful.

My ramps are pretty beat up. How much of a pain am I signing up for if I replace the ramps? Is there any soldering involves or just a matter of taking off all the screws and throwing the new ones in?

Appreciate everyone's insight.

Take apart, clean everything, replace coil sleeve and the plunger if that is broken or beat up.

Just buy a couple hundred wedge bulbs and like 50 bayonet bulbs and that should be plenty. Use non ghosting in the inserts to be safe.

No soldering but might need to rivet a couple flashers to the new ramps. It will take time. Just go slow and take lots of pics.

There are torx barrel screws on the shaft but they do not hold the rubber ball in place. They should be tightened to minimise play between the shaft and the plate. On the top-most of the ball there is a black screw and a black washer (I assume you already removed these) that keep the rubber ball on the square shaft. After removing these the ball should come out with a little upward force. If it doesn’t, this means that the rubber has melted on the metal and created some kind of glue.
I would remove the old ball by forcing it up, clean the old-gummy residue from the shaft, and buy a new ball.

Any chance you can point me in the right direction for these parts? I'm a bit new to tinkering here... the coil sleeves appear to come in various sizes?

I believe I would need this plunger and this sleeve... ?

https://www.pinballlife.com/2-116-flanged-coil-sleeve.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-6306-2.html

Is it worth ordering a coil or other pieces just in case they are the culprit? Or it looks like they have the whole assembly...

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-knocker-assembly-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-pinball-machines.html

The manual should have parts numbers. If not the parts guides on planetary Pinball’s website will have them. You can make sure that way.

I believe Marco sells them with flaps and flashers rivetted
Also with the decal set.

You might need to solder the wires

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RS1858

I fixed my sound problem by replacing the ribbon cable. I had to purchase a complete set from Marco. A temporary fix maybe to reseat the ribbon cable several times.

So I'm planning my ramp replacement and taking pictures of everything ahead of them getting here next week.

Question for the smart folks here... I have a few switches and lights with wires getting fed through the ramp like this one. I assume my only option is to unattach and solder it back on? Are there other switches some folks have or run in other ways that soldering wasn't required?

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There are connectors under the playfield you can disconnect.

For the wires through the plastic, if you don't plan to re-use the old ramp, I would cut the hole so you can remove the switch intact and the wires stay together until you are ready to feed it through the new ramp. Then you can cut them and place them back within a short time frame to ensure you do it correct (but green always goes to the middle).

When you move it, I assume you will probably clean the metal bracket.

As the prior person wrote, there are connectors to separate below the playfield. If you look at my photos below, I label my connectors and the holes they go through as well.

Here is what I did for my recent refurbishment: http://www.purcellvillepinball.com/WCS2020.html

Looks like I do indeed need new fuses. Do any 3amp x 250v fuses work? Looks like they're available at most hardware stores around town - just want to ensure I pick-up the right ones...

Just make sure you’re putting the correct type in. Fast blow or slow blow. Most likely need slow blow. The manual will say SB next to them. They look to have a bar in them with a coiled wire wrapped around it.

Thanks so much. Indeed the manual shows S-B.

Worked! Fuses replaced, and flippers back - fully operational. Thanks again!

I'd recommend getting comfortable soldering

It's my least favorite thing to do on a pin, but it's inevitable that something will fail or fall off and will require some soldering.

Finally got down to the Pinball Garage in Hamilton yesterday. The WCS that rlbohon3 did looks and plays great! It had people playing it all day.

What I was most impressed with was the black rails, legs and lock bar! Im seriously debating on doing mine now in black. Looks so much better that the silver and gold!

(BTW thats not me in the pic playing it LOL.)

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I did mine in black and I’d recommend it certainly

It’s really cool to stumble across comments like this after working on a game for others to play, and to get feedback. Glad you enjoyed it. Yeah, I’m really glad we went with the black powder coat on the legs, rails and lockbar. Seems to tie well with the rest of the black in the cabinet and head. The only thing that was still giving me fits was the kicker/saucer for the goalie. Half the time it kicks fine; half the time it’s a wimpy kick and doesn’t make it to the goal. Haven’t figured that out yet.

Hoping to make it back up there again soon (2hrs away); maybe this Saturday 2/27. Any other issues you notice with WCS that need addressing? I restored the Harlem Globetrotters there and it still needs a few sockets replaced the next time I visit. Next in the queue is Addams Family. I’m working on it now and will go to Pinball Garage in a month or so, hopefully.

Leebo

Replace the spring in the kicker mechanism.

Thanks. Tried that. No improvement.

I had this problem and it turned out the the kicker arm was hitting something under the playfield so it couldn't make a full stroke with enough power to hit the goalie. I rearranged the wires and my problem disappeared.

Had that same problem
I put a playfield protector ring in mine and it kicks perfect ever since i placed it

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Only thing I noticed was it could use a good leveling.

I played the Globetrotters also! Was my first time ever playing one. Looked and played really good. That double flipper on the left got me several times LOL.

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Thanks, I’ll take a look at it again for that in particular.

Funny thing is, my problem seemed to START after adding a cliffy. I’ve had a couple other pinheads look at this with me and we’ve tried a number of things. It seemed like the arm wasn’t hitting dead center on the back of the ball, so I tweaked the arm a little and it helped... for a while, kinda. Next I noticed it seemed the arm pivot was kinda floppy with more play in the pivot than what I would expect would be normal. By shimming in an extra washer, that ended up just binding things too much. I’ll still keep an eye out for a fix but since it’s a couple hours away, I’ll only see it once every couple months or so. Hope to swing by soon though.

Thanks for the tips.

I’ll definitely check for levelness and give it a quick clean and wax next time there. Thanks for the feedback. It’s definitely good to hear back the good and bad on any game I work on to get impressions on what needs attention and what folks like.

That Harlem double flipper is a killer. Takes some mental reprogramming to get used to.

Leebo

Remove the cliffy and replace with Mylar. Make sure the arm is not worn down.

Thanks Erik. Will give that a try.

Might also help to put the game into coil test and keep that coil firing. Take a slow mo video to see what’s happening when it doesn’t kick the ball strong.

Ha! Great minds think alike? Yep, I did that too back when I was restoring it a couple months back. Here's a video of it happening. The video is in slow motion but if you adjust your Youtube player to 0.25 speed of the video it's even easier to observe. So looking at this again, I remember that I noticed the ball was hitting the metal deflector that is above the kicker. I have it slightly angled out towards the goalie but probably not enough. Watching the video carefully shows the ball hitting the deflector, then hitting the cliffy. I tried bending/angling the deflector out towards the goalie some more but that was after the game was all back together and hard to adjust much. It would probably be best to take apart the playfield a bit again to really access and angle that deflector, and angle it a lot more to make the ball bounce toward the goal.

I also kept my saucer deflectors loose so that hard shots would get their impact absorbed and stay in the saucer.

You definitely don’t want it hitting that deflector, or at least not nearly as much as it is.

I dont mean cliffy, i mean the protector ring thats inside of the hole.
That made my ball eject with more oomph for some reason

Ok after looking at the restore from mbelofsky its clear I need new hardware too. I can’t find in the manual a part number for these hex posts. Maybe I’m blind but can someone point me in the right direction?

And it looks like the screws are a mix of #6 and #8? I feel like I’m going to get in over my head here

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while a little more labor intensive, a buffing wheel and some polish will clean those up to a mirror finish

looks like that may be the plan. I finally found the part number... I think... but not in stock

New problem again. Hope I’m not wearing out my welcome here.

Goalie movement suddenly is dramatically reduced. Stays mostly in the middle and sways back and forth. Motor seems to be working fine. But everything here seems a bit loose and he’s kind of grinding on the back of the goal. If I push the assembly a bit more on the drive I seem to get better movement. Any hints for a good fix?

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Hi everyone I have a WCS just wondering is the spinning ball meant to be a hard plastic or a softish rubber which may help the pinball rebounds or kick off in different directions? Mines like a hard plastic and the ball just hits and slips on it and gets no real bonce or redirection off of it.

Thanks

Rubber. Should not be hard at all.

If the wire for the goalie target gets caught on something it won’t let the goalie move freely.

When using rubber, hard would be easier