Great work and video. I like the extra light touches. Hoping to get you your level of detail some day. Although my WCS is in great shape right now!

Thanks! It’s definitely a fun thing to try different mods along the way. Some work better than others, often a trial and error approach. Wasn’t sure I was going to like the ring lights on the pop bumpers but glad I did them.

Great looking game! I have been wanting to head back down to the Pinball Garage for a while now. Im def going to play this one when I do.

I like the wireform, turned out nice. Also I was never a fan of the gold legs, but chrome lock bar and rails. I have to say... the black armor and legs looks pretty sexy on it.

Thanks. The first plan was to powder coat the rails, legs and lockbar purple along with the wireform and skill shot assembly, but was afraid the rails, legs and lockbar would look a little too much. I saw a pic online somewhere with blacked out trim and thought it looked much cleaner against the black paint of the cabinet and head. Definitely glad we went that way. I sorta wish there was a more vibrant purple available when I had the wireform and skill shot done (something to match the Titan bands or new plastics), but it turned out matching the playfield art pretty close. Overall, fairly pleased.

All. I haven’t been able to fix the issue we’re having with the game advancing to the next ball/player during play, and just today it started ejecting a second ball at the start of each ball or during play... all switches are working just fine, and the game has no errors at start up. Any thoughts?!

Switch test, or single switch test. Eject all balls, and check trough switches.

Assuming that when you say "game advancing to the next ball/player during play", that you MEAN that it is ending the ball prematurely, and going into bonus count.

Put fresh new balls in the game and see if that changes anything.

Correct.

How do you eject balls during the switch test? I’d previously run the switch test, and everything seemed to check out. Only odd thing was that trough ball five position showed only the left optic was registering. Not sure if that’s normal...

As someone that's had a lot of work on games with those WPC troughs, I've gotten really good at reaching under and popping the ball eject solinoid pluger with my finger. However, if nothing else, go into the Ball Eject test, eject everything, then drop one ball in at a time.

And yes, what chuckwurt says - your balls may be magnetic, or, you may have wear spots/divots in the trough, preventing the balls from rolling down properly.

Can anyone help me

I'm working on my wcs project and I have the gearbox for the soccer ball, but the motor itself is missing

Anyone have a spare or a part no/specs

Found a pic on the Australian site but can't find that motor either

Thanks

I don't think any of the pin sites have the motor by itself.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7996.1

Yes I saw that , but if someone has one with the sticker on it, I can find a replacement without buying the gearbox too(mine is good)

Well ... I have a motor that I replaced. It runs but the pinion on it is too worn out to catch the gears in the gearbox. How are you at matching and replacing pinions?

Thanks so much for your help, all.

Unfortunately, I’ve tried everything described here, and am still experiencing the issue. I’ve never taken a trough apart, but it looks somewhat simple to remove the opto boards to check ‘em out... Should that be my next step?

For what it’s worth, it seems like the issue occurs most often when there’s a ball in the lock. Any chance that’s related, or likely total coincidence?

One of these might help if your trough does have dents holding up the the ball and you have access to a 3d printer:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2790469
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1627116

It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues.

The first thing I would do is checking the trough - the easiest way to check for divots or stuck balls is to play a game with the door open - as soon as you see it happen, and before the ball in play drains, look at the underside of the trough - look at the balls in the trough, and make sure that they are all in line, all rolled down to the front.

You can then put an extra ball in the Lock area, and do more switch tests in the trough - see if anything changes.

You mentioned something about a bad opto, it wouldn't hurt cleaning the boards off when you remove them, too.

thank you!

Hi Guys!

I was born in '79 in a quite big European country which had a communist system at that time. When I was a small boy I went to a small gaming centre in Warsaw. In that place there were plenty of arcade games and a few pinball machines. At that time arcades seemed to be much more interesting for me than pinball so probably I didn't play pinball at all.

2 years ago when I reached 40 I went to a pinball museum and discovered the machines once again. This time I was really impressed and enjoyed playing. Apparently I have played computer games too much in my life that is why hitting the real steel ball and physical aspects of the game attracted me strongly. The machine I liked best was World Cup Soccer 94 as soccer is a very popular game in Poland (we call it "football"). I dreamed about my own machine and realised they are very expensive but it was not a big deal because I started saving money, small amounts each month.

I have own my WCS 94 Pinball Machine for over 1 year time and I found and bought it in France.

Recently some problems related to resets of the game occurred so I read a lot of threads on the forum and I will try to solve the problem. The most difficult issue is that there can be plenty of reasons of it and indicating the source of the problem is very difficult. So I'm going to check each component and I hope I can count on you when I have any problem.

Take care Guys, thanks for everything and enjoy your machines!

I wish you only happiness in the New Year!

IMG_20200717_184950 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200717_185058 (resized).jpg

Be sure to first check the simple stuff like the grounding of the boards, and the state of the conectors and cold solder joints before moving on to replacing stuff
Sometimes the resets are easely fixed with those things

Forgive me for my ignorance herein - again, quite new to this. What's a diode? Apologies for not knowing.

Played the game a fair amount last night without issue, but did not have many locks. Then, tonight, got a bunch of locks, and game "ended the ball / advanced to the next ball/player" a bunch. The trough appears to be in good shape, with the balls rolling nicely, and all the switches appear to activate correctly during tests, so more and more I think it's somehow related to the lock...

Any additional help (you guys have already been great) would be much appreciated!

It's like an electrical valve. Allows current to flow one way but not another.

Looking to join the club if anyone is selling. Have cash on hand.

Any chance you have a picture of what it looks like? I'm trying to trouble shoot the potential issue that Coyote identified - "It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues", but being so new to this, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

Thanks again!

A diode looks like a small black cylinder with a silver ring on one end.

Yep, a bad diode can definitely mess with your switch matrix. To fix, you'll need to track down the faulty diode and replace it. The best way to test a diode is to remove it and test with a multimeter. 4007 diodes are usually a safe replacement on most pinballs.

Other issues like a shorted wire can cause switch matrix issues, so be sure to take a goof look around the area with the issue

diode-symbol (resized).jpg

You can reverse the spin by swapping the two wires on the motor. I’m not aware of any difficulty settings that reverses the spin for standard gameplay. But the ball does spin backwards in wizard mode.

Just swapped the wires around in mine and it makes the regular game a lot easier - and the wizard mode a lot harder!

Hi! Do you have any idea what happened below (see attached photos)? Why did someone solder it instead of exchange the plugs? Can it be a reason of the resets of the game?

z??cza 1 (resized).jpg

z??cza 2 (resized).jpg

They fixed it "permanently"...until it breaks again. Or until you need to pull parts out that are now soldered in. I don't think this itself would cause game resets, but whoever did this may have done some other crappy repairs that are now manifesting.

When I was buying my WCS I was so excited that I didn't even noticed it. I prefer when things are fixed professionally instead of provisional
Would it be difficult to repair it in right way? I am not experienced in pinball but I would like to do it.

Nope. Just get those wires off the header pins, clip the wire, strip it, crimp a new pin on it and insert into a .156 connector

Great Plains electronics has all the stuff you need (pins connectors and crimp tool)

Video on how to do this as well.

Yes fix it, if you have no repair and soldering skills (and materials), go see a pin repair guy.
Maybe search a local club or forum for people near you who can help.

J120 and J121 are the GI connectors and so should not be the source of your reset issues. What is more likely the issue is the capacitors in the reset circuit. rkahr makes a daughterboard that can help with reset issues or you can replace the caps and work directly on the power issue.

Any playfields left for
This game. I know micro made a run last year. On the hunt for one.

Not sure about mirco, but this was posted not to long ago....

"Hey Guys;

Just popped in to say "Hi" and to say we are cutting the WCS PFs right now, should have the first batch of clear coated PFs fairly soon. Going to be a nice PF, so much cool CAD work."

Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com

Thank you!

Jeezuz, I hope they had more then one person look at the art, just to make sure something major isn't missing.

Would someone be bale to take a photo of the board on the left inside the coin door. I think I plugged a connector in wrong and the game is doing weird things (tilt warning when I press the magna save button, etc).

the board below the left flipper button is that I need a photo of. Where the connector(s) are plugged in.

Thank you

Here you go

44E869DD-8B10-492F-9768-43FE9B01C163 (resized).jpeg

PERFECT!!! Thank you so much!

Chris

So I have a problem apparently.

The game will add a player and also give a tilt warning when the magnet button is pressed.

Any ideas are welcome. Plugs are correct per photo above.

Chris

What happens in Switch Test?

magnagoalie, start button, and plumb bob tilt are all in the same switch matrix column. follow the green brown wire, starting w/ magnet switch to see if there are any breaks. otherwise there's a good chance you'll need to replace a diode

So....switch test is an adventure for sure. The magnet and flipper button worked fine in the switch edge test.

I bumped the connector and that’s when it got interesting. Touching the connector produces the following - you can hear it but I couldn’t film both at the same time....

I will be removing the board and reflowing the pins tonight to see what happens then.

Chris

Reflowed the connector pins and it's working like a champ now. Thanks for the ideas!

Chris

Yes. There should be a shooter lane switch.