(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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There are 6441 posts in this topic. You are on page 128 of 129.
#6351 24 days ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Finally finished the restoration job on WCS and delivered it to Pinball Garage in Hamilton, OH. It’s on the floor available to play. Here’s a video I threw together. It’s kinda long; the first half basically goes over everything I did to it, and the second half goes over a bit of game play. Just wanted to share to give others ideas with light mods and such.

Great work and video. I like the extra light touches. Hoping to get you your level of detail some day. Although my WCS is in great shape right now!

#6352 24 days ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Great work and video. I like the extra light touches. Hoping to get you your level of detail some day. Although my WCS is in great shape right now!

Thanks! It’s definitely a fun thing to try different mods along the way. Some work better than others, often a trial and error approach. Wasn’t sure I was going to like the ring lights on the pop bumpers but glad I did them.

#6353 24 days ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Finally finished the restoration job on WCS and delivered it to Pinball Garage in Hamilton, OH. It’s on the floor available to play. Here’s a video I threw together. It’s kinda long; the first half basically goes over everything I did to it, and the second half goes over a bit of game play. Just wanted to share to give others ideas with light mods and such.

Great looking game! I have been wanting to head back down to the Pinball Garage for a while now. Im def going to play this one when I do.

I like the wireform, turned out nice. Also I was never a fan of the gold legs, but chrome lock bar and rails. I have to say... the black armor and legs looks pretty sexy on it.

#6354 24 days ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Great looking game! I have been wanting to head back down to the Pinball Garage for a while now. Im def going to play this one when I do.
I like the wireform, turned out nice. Also I was never a fan of the gold legs, but chrome lock bar and rails. I have to say... the black armor and legs looks pretty sexy on it.

Thanks. The first plan was to powder coat the rails, legs and lockbar purple along with the wireform and skill shot assembly, but was afraid the rails, legs and lockbar would look a little too much. I saw a pic online somewhere with blacked out trim and thought it looked much cleaner against the black paint of the cabinet and head. Definitely glad we went that way. I sorta wish there was a more vibrant purple available when I had the wireform and skill shot done (something to match the Titan bands or new plastics), but it turned out matching the playfield art pretty close. Overall, fairly pleased.

#6355 23 days ago

All. I haven’t been able to fix the issue we’re having with the game advancing to the next ball/player during play, and just today it started ejecting a second ball at the start of each ball or during play... all switches are working just fine, and the game has no errors at start up. Any thoughts?!

#6356 23 days ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

All. I haven’t been able to fix the issue we’re having with the game advancing to the next ball/player during play, and just today it started ejecting a second ball at the start of each ball or during play... all switches are working just fine, and the game has no errors at start up. Any thoughts?!

Switch test, or single switch test. Eject all balls, and check trough switches.

Assuming that when you say "game advancing to the next ball/player during play", that you MEAN that it is ending the ball prematurely, and going into bonus count.

#6357 23 days ago

Put fresh new balls in the game and see if that changes anything.

#6358 23 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Switch test, or single switch test. Eject all balls, and check trough switches.
Assuming that when you say "game advancing to the next ball/player during play", that you MEAN that it is ending the ball prematurely, and going into bonus count.

Correct.

How do you eject balls during the switch test? I’d previously run the switch test, and everything seemed to check out. Only odd thing was that trough ball five position showed only the left optic was registering. Not sure if that’s normal...

#6359 23 days ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Correct.
How do you eject balls during the switch test? I’d previously run the switch test, and everything seemed to check out. Only odd thing was that trough ball five position showed only the left optic was registering. Not sure if that’s normal...

As someone that's had a lot of work on games with those WPC troughs, I've gotten really good at reaching under and popping the ball eject solinoid pluger with my finger. However, if nothing else, go into the Ball Eject test, eject everything, then drop one ball in at a time.

And yes, what chuckwurt says - your balls may be magnetic, or, you may have wear spots/divots in the trough, preventing the balls from rolling down properly.

#6360 22 days ago

Can anyone help me

I'm working on my wcs project and I have the gearbox for the soccer ball, but the motor itself is missing

Anyone have a spare or a part no/specs

Found a pic on the Australian site but can't find that motor either

Thanks

#6361 22 days ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Can anyone help me
I'm working on my wcs project and I have the gearbox for the soccer ball, but the motor itself is missing
Anyone have a spare or a part no/specs
Found a pic on the Australian site but can't find that motor either
Thanks

I don't think any of the pin sites have the motor by itself.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7996.1

#6362 22 days ago
Quoted from frisbez:

I don't think any of the pin sites have the motor by itself.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7996.1

Yes I saw that , but if someone has one with the sticker on it, I can find a replacement without buying the gearbox too(mine is good)

#6363 22 days ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Can anyone help me
I'm working on my wcs project and I have the gearbox for the soccer ball, but the motor itself is missing
Anyone have a spare or a part no/specs
Found a pic on the Australian site but can't find that motor either
Thanks

Well ... I have a motor that I replaced. It runs but the pinion on it is too worn out to catch the gears in the gearbox. How are you at matching and replacing pinions?

#6364 22 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As someone that's had a lot of work on games with those WPC troughs, I've gotten really good at reaching under and popping the ball eject solinoid pluger with my finger. However, if nothing else, go into the Ball Eject test, eject everything, then drop one ball in at a time.
And yes, what chuckwurt says - your balls may be magnetic, or, you may have wear spots/divots in the trough, preventing the balls from rolling down properly.

Thanks so much for your help, all.

Unfortunately, I’ve tried everything described here, and am still experiencing the issue. I’ve never taken a trough apart, but it looks somewhat simple to remove the opto boards to check ‘em out... Should that be my next step?

For what it’s worth, it seems like the issue occurs most often when there’s a ball in the lock. Any chance that’s related, or likely total coincidence?

#6365 22 days ago

One of these might help if your trough does have dents holding up the the ball and you have access to a 3d printer:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2790469
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1627116

#6366 22 days ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Thanks so much for your help, all.
Unfortunately, I’ve tried everything described here, and am still experiencing the issue. I’ve never taken a trough apart, but it looks somewhat simple to remove the opto boards to check ‘em out... Should that be my next step?
For what it’s worth, it seems like the issue occurs most often when there’s a ball in the lock. Any chance that’s related, or likely total coincidence?

It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues.

The first thing I would do is checking the trough - the easiest way to check for divots or stuck balls is to play a game with the door open - as soon as you see it happen, and before the ball in play drains, look at the underside of the trough - look at the balls in the trough, and make sure that they are all in line, all rolled down to the front.

You can then put an extra ball in the Lock area, and do more switch tests in the trough - see if anything changes.

You mentioned something about a bad opto, it wouldn't hurt cleaning the boards off when you remove them, too.

#6367 22 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Well ... I have a motor that I replaced. It runs but the pinion on it is too worn out to catch the gears in the gearbox. How are you at matching and replacing pinions?

thank you!

#6368 21 days ago

Hi Guys!

I was born in '79 in a quite big European country which had a communist system at that time. When I was a small boy I went to a small gaming centre in Warsaw. In that place there were plenty of arcade games and a few pinball machines. At that time arcades seemed to be much more interesting for me than pinball so probably I didn't play pinball at all.

2 years ago when I reached 40 I went to a pinball museum and discovered the machines once again. This time I was really impressed and enjoyed playing. Apparently I have played computer games too much in my life that is why hitting the real steel ball and physical aspects of the game attracted me strongly. The machine I liked best was World Cup Soccer 94 as soccer is a very popular game in Poland (we call it "football"). I dreamed about my own machine and realised they are very expensive but it was not a big deal because I started saving money, small amounts each month.

I have own my WCS 94 Pinball Machine for over 1 year time and I found and bought it in France.

Recently some problems related to resets of the game occurred so I read a lot of threads on the forum and I will try to solve the problem. The most difficult issue is that there can be plenty of reasons of it and indicating the source of the problem is very difficult. So I'm going to check each component and I hope I can count on you when I have any problem.

Take care Guys, thanks for everything and enjoy your machines!

I wish you only happiness in the New Year!

IMG_20200717_184950 (resized).jpgIMG_20200717_185058 (resized).jpg
#6369 21 days ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi Guys!
Recently some problems related to resets of the game occurred so I read a lot of threads on the forum and I will try to solve the problem. The most difficult issue is that there can be plenty of reasons of it and indicating the source of the problem is very difficult. So I'm going to check each component and I hope I can count on you when I have any problem.
Take care Guys, thanks for everything and enjoy your machines!
I wish you only happiness in the New Year! [quoted image][quoted image]

Be sure to first check the simple stuff like the grounding of the boards, and the state of the conectors and cold solder joints before moving on to replacing stuff
Sometimes the resets are easely fixed with those things

#6370 20 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues.
The first thing I would do is checking the trough - the easiest way to check for divots or stuck balls is to play a game with the door open - as soon as you see it happen, and before the ball in play drains, look at the underside of the trough - look at the balls in the trough, and make sure that they are all in line, all rolled down to the front.
You can then put an extra ball in the Lock area, and do more switch tests in the trough - see if anything changes.
You mentioned something about a bad opto, it wouldn't hurt cleaning the boards off when you remove them, too.

Forgive me for my ignorance herein - again, quite new to this. What's a diode? Apologies for not knowing.

Played the game a fair amount last night without issue, but did not have many locks. Then, tonight, got a bunch of locks, and game "ended the ball / advanced to the next ball/player" a bunch. The trough appears to be in good shape, with the balls rolling nicely, and all the switches appear to activate correctly during tests, so more and more I think it's somehow related to the lock...

Any additional help (you guys have already been great) would be much appreciated!

#6371 20 days ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Forgive me for my ignorance herein - again, quite new to this. What's a diode?

It's like an electrical valve. Allows current to flow one way but not another.

#6372 20 days ago

Looking to join the club if anyone is selling. Have cash on hand.

#6373 19 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

It's like an electrical valve. Allows current to flow one way but not another.

Any chance you have a picture of what it looks like? I'm trying to trouble shoot the potential issue that Coyote identified - "It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues", but being so new to this, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

Thanks again!

#6374 18 days ago

Joining the club next week and I'm super excited! I've seen in some tournaments where they have the soccer ball spin toward the flippers to make it harder. Is this just an adjustment setting or did they actually reverse the motor somehow?

#6375 18 days ago
Quoted from kdoggity:

Any chance you have a picture of what it looks like? I'm trying to trouble shoot the potential issue that Coyote identified - "It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues", but being so new to this, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
Thanks again!

A diode looks like a small black cylinder with a silver ring on one end.

Yep, a bad diode can definitely mess with your switch matrix. To fix, you'll need to track down the faulty diode and replace it. The best way to test a diode is to remove it and test with a multimeter. 4007 diodes are usually a safe replacement on most pinballs.

Other issues like a shorted wire can cause switch matrix issues, so be sure to take a goof look around the area with the issue

diode-symbol (resized).jpg
#6376 18 days ago
Quoted from Jerickso77:

Joining the club next week and I'm super excited! I've seen in some tournaments where they have the soccer ball spin toward the flippers to make it harder. Is this just an adjustment setting or did they actually reverse the motor somehow?

You can reverse the spin by swapping the two wires on the motor. I’m not aware of any difficulty settings that reverses the spin for standard gameplay. But the ball does spin backwards in wizard mode.

#6377 17 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

You can reverse the spin by swapping the two wires on the motor. I’m not aware of any difficulty settings that reverses the spin for standard gameplay. But the ball does spin backwards in wizard mode.

Just swapped the wires around in mine and it makes the regular game a lot easier - and the wizard mode a lot harder!

#6378 17 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Be sure to first check the simple stuff like the grounding of the boards, and the state of the conectors and cold solder joints before moving on to replacing stuff
Sometimes the resets are easely fixed with those things

Hi! Do you have any idea what happened below (see attached photos)? Why did someone solder it instead of exchange the plugs? Can it be a reason of the resets of the game?

z??cza 1 (resized).jpgz??cza 2 (resized).jpg
#6379 17 days ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi! Do you have any idea what happened below (see attached photos)? Why did someone solder it instead of exchange the plugs? Can it be a reason of the resets of the game?
[quoted image][quoted image]

They fixed it "permanently"...until it breaks again. Or until you need to pull parts out that are now soldered in. I don't think this itself would cause game resets, but whoever did this may have done some other crappy repairs that are now manifesting.

#6380 17 days ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

They fixed it "permanently"...until it breaks again. Or until you need to pull parts out that are now soldered in. I don't think this itself would cause game resets, but whoever did this may have done some other crappy repairs that are now manifesting.

When I was buying my WCS I was so excited that I didn't even noticed it. I prefer when things are fixed professionally instead of provisional
Would it be difficult to repair it in right way? I am not experienced in pinball but I would like to do it.

#6381 17 days ago

Nope. Just get those wires off the header pins, clip the wire, strip it, crimp a new pin on it and insert into a .156 connector

Great Plains electronics has all the stuff you need (pins connectors and crimp tool)

Video on how to do this as well.

#6382 17 days ago
Quoted from lecter:

When I was buying my WCS I was so excited that I didn't even noticed it. I prefer when things are fixed professionally instead of provisional
Would it be difficult to repair it in right way? I am not experienced in pinball but I would like to do it.

Yes fix it, if you have no repair and soldering skills (and materials), go see a pin repair guy.
Maybe search a local club or forum for people near you who can help.

#6383 16 days ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi! Do you have any idea what happened below (see attached photos)? Why did someone solder it instead of exchange the plugs? Can it be a reason of the resets of the game?
[quoted image][quoted image]

J120 and J121 are the GI connectors and so should not be the source of your reset issues. What is more likely the issue is the capacitors in the reset circuit. RKahr makes a daughterboard that can help with reset issues or you can replace the caps and work directly on the power issue.

#6384 16 days ago

Any playfields left for
This game. I know micro made a run last year. On the hunt for one.

#6385 16 days ago
Quoted from brobra:

Any playfields left for
This game. I know micro made a run last year. On the hunt for one.

Not sure about mirco, but this was posted not to long ago....

"Hey Guys;

Just popped in to say "Hi" and to say we are cutting the WCS PFs right now, should have the first batch of clear coated PFs fairly soon. Going to be a nice PF, so much cool CAD work."

Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com

#6386 16 days ago

Thank you!

#6387 16 days ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Not sure about mirco, but this was posted not to long ago....
"Hey Guys;
Just popped in to say "Hi" and to say we are cutting the WCS PFs right now, should have the first batch of clear coated PFs fairly soon. Going to be a nice PF, so much cool CAD work."
Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com

Jeezuz, I hope they had more then one person look at the art, just to make sure something major isn't missing.

#6388 15 days ago

Would someone be bale to take a photo of the board on the left inside the coin door. I think I plugged a connector in wrong and the game is doing weird things (tilt warning when I press the magna save button, etc).

the board below the left flipper button is that I need a photo of. Where the connector(s) are plugged in.

Thank you

#6389 15 days ago

Here you go

44E869DD-8B10-492F-9768-43FE9B01C163 (resized).jpeg
#6390 15 days ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

Here you go
[quoted image]

PERFECT!!! Thank you so much!

Chris

#6391 15 days ago

So I have a problem apparently.

The game will add a player and also give a tilt warning when the magnet button is pressed.

Any ideas are welcome. Plugs are correct per photo above.

Chris

#6392 15 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

So I have a problem apparently.

The game will add a player and also give a tilt warning when the magnet button is pressed.
Any ideas are welcome. Plugs are correct per photo above.
Chris

What happens in Switch Test?

#6393 15 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

So I have a problem apparently.

The game will add a player and also give a tilt warning when the magnet button is pressed.
Any ideas are welcome. Plugs are correct per photo above.
Chris

magnagoalie, start button, and plumb bob tilt are all in the same switch matrix column. follow the green brown wire, starting w/ magnet switch to see if there are any breaks. otherwise there's a good chance you'll need to replace a diode

#6394 15 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What happens in Switch Test?

So....switch test is an adventure for sure. The magnet and flipper button worked fine in the switch edge test.

I bumped the connector and that’s when it got interesting. Touching the connector produces the following - you can hear it but I couldn’t film both at the same time....

I will be removing the board and reflowing the pins tonight to see what happens then.

Chris

#6395 14 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

So....switch test is an adventure for sure. The magnet and flipper button worked fine in the switch edge test.
I bumped the connector and that’s when it got interesting. Touching the connector produces the following - you can hear it but I couldn’t film both at the same time....

I will be removing the board and reflowing the pins tonight to see what happens then.
Chris

Reflowed the connector pins and it's working like a champ now. Thanks for the ideas!

Chris

#6396 13 days ago

What settings do you recommend? Factory? Tournament? Any adjs to make?

#6397 12 days ago

So I assume there should be a swtich in the shooter lane? I was wondering why it would ball search if I was slow to plunge.

20210114_210244 (resized).jpg
#6398 12 days ago
Quoted from Jerickso77:

So I assume there should be a swtich in the shooter lane? I was wondering why it would ball search if I was slow to plunge.
[quoted image]

Yes. There should be a shooter lane switch.

#6399 12 days ago

Could someone snap a pic of this area by the ball? I don't if these are the wrong posts or what but the plastic that goes there can't lay flat like it should.

16107276886831929175103 (resized).jpg1610727708063194771480 (resized).jpg
#6400 12 days ago

Or maybe it's supposed to be angled? Either way I the taller post is still too short to get a hex nut on.
It barely reaches the bottom of the plastic.
16107284488351039609729 (resized).jpg

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