WHAT AN AMAZING SAVE!!

Im strongly considering the backglass from CPR. Might have to treat my self to a Christmas gift.

My playfield unfortunately has some planking on the in lanes. I know CPR are planning to do WCS94 playfields at some point, but wondering if anyone had a NOS or really nice WCS playfield the would be prepared to sell.

Thanks

Is the left ramp Gate 1 or 2?

Gate 2.

Any chance you know how to disable the knocker?

I looked and didn't see a setting either that would disable this (other than maybe disabling anything that would reward you; reporting the knock). Probably your options are to desolder one of the wires going to it (tape off the end to prevent a short, or put heat shrink tubing on it). You could pull the plunger out of it also, or if you want to lessen the knock, put a piece of felt where the plunger strikes the plate (such as a small stick-on furniture "foot" you can get at Walmart, Lowes, etc...) I tried that once on a different game and it really deadened the knock, more than I meant it to. You might like that option vs no knock at all.

I havent looked at the knocker in mine in a while.... but if I remember right... doesn't it have a connector on it right before the coil? Or I might be thinking of another game.

Also... the knocker on my Silver Ball Mania goes off at 10,000 points every game so I put a piece of weather stripping between the plunger and the strike plate. You can still hear the thud, but its not the obnoxious THWACK that wakes up the whole house lol.

I just joined the club will take about two weeks for the machine to be shipped to me, that might give me time to read all 127 pages of this thread

I have played a couple of other WCS pins before so I know I enjoy the gameplay and the couple of challenging shots. Being in Tasmania / Australia means there is not much choice of pins for sale here and I had to purchase this one from "the mainland" after just looking at pictures. He sent heaps of hi res shots of the areas I wanted and I asked quite a few questions so hopefully I will be happy with the condition when it arrives and there are no surprises.

I plan to set it up and have a few games, then strip it down for a good clean and replace rubbers and anything else it needs.
I'm resisting the temptation to start buying stuff I know I will need before the game arrives as I know that will just add to my shipping costs when I find I need more stuff.

I have a tab open with @chuckwurt's shop out thread which should come in handy thanks.

From what I can tell the playfield is good, usual wear around the Assist hole but I will cover that with a cliffy set, also where the ball drops on the inlane switch.

Sadly it looks like someone has removed the anti-rebound wireforms and screwed a post between the flippers which has now been removed also leaving a small hole. I will have to fill and paint that, I have not done cosmetic work on playfields before so that will require some resaearch.

I have read the last three pages of the thread already and there is some great restoration work here, encouraging tosee how well people have cleaned up the ramps. I assume just using novus1 ?

Anyway I should wait until I get my game before I start swamping you all with questions

I have a bit of an odd one that has me puzzled so far...

I chase down a switch issue to find a wire breaking of a striker target but when i put the PF backdown after all that, 3 Optos stopped working, Through 1, Goal Through and Goal popper.

-I am not sure why all 3 at once? I did rewire a bad connector that connect all the goal assembly opto but I am 99.9% sure i did not mess that up. Though if someone as a picture of these connectors i'd take it!

I check the two opto board and they look fine, trace the wires between opto and opto board, tested opto with multimeter, check for any broken wire or loose connector wire.
I don't have any spare opto board or through board to try a quick swap but i still can't wrap my head around why would 3 of them go bad? some weird siwtch matrix issue through the opto board?

Any suggestions would be welcome. thanks.

Welcome!

to close this, i must have shorted both boards, i ended up replacing the LM339 on boath 7 and 10 opto board following Pinwiki guidelines and the 3 Opto came back up.

Hi. I just restored a World Cup Soccer. I am in the process of documenting over 450 photos I took. Here is the restoration if it can help anyone.

http://purcellvillepinball.com/WCS2020.html

I kind of went over the top on what I purchased for this game but I think it is one of the prettiest I restored. The large ticket items are the brass re-plating of the wire ramp, apron wire, and coin toss entry, Color LED DMD, LEDs, new plastics set and protectors, new ramps, new legs and lock bar, new translite (not arrived yet), and many other items as described.

WCS-447 (resized).jpg

Outstanding work and documentation!!! VERY VERY Nice!

Here is a restoration I did for a customer back in December 2018 - January 2019:

http://purcellvillepinball.com/WCS2018.html

This game had a Z bracket holding the back part of the wire ramp in place sturdier. I cannot find a part number for this. Is this part made?

You can see this brass Z bracket above the soccer ball in the photo below.

WCS-383 (resized).jpg

Have some more info and hopefully trying to shake loose some ideas here.

I swapped the fliptronics board with one from one of my other games and the fuse doesn't blow so I think the problem is narrowed down to the fliptronics board.

I think based on the manual and WPC schematics that Q1 (TIP 36) and Q6 (TIP 102) are the main transistors associated with the magnet. I tested Q6 and it tested good. Q1 tested bad according to pinwiki (see picture) as one of the flanking legs had no reading. I thought I found the problem and ordered some more. They arrived yesterday and I tested them and they all read "bad" according to this testing procedure, with one flanking leg not giving a reading...am I testing this correctly? Is this procedure wrong?

I replaced both Q1 and Q6 and the fuse is still blowing after the first time the magnet engages.

Before I keep going back through the board is there anything obvious to check I'm overlooking? Can a magnet short to something under the playfield?

Screenshot_20201213-100731_Chrome (resized).jpg

Transistors are the only ideas I had sorry.

No worries, actually fixed it today. Somehow I bought regular 3A fuses instead of slow blow and just dumped them in my parts bin and never noticed. Felt pretty stupid but at least it works!

Have you tested the fuseholder and fuses properly?
Mine had overpowered fuses in it from previous owner and some wonky fuseclips.
And be sure to check connectors and wires to the boards.

Nevermind missed your post

Off topic.... but your avatar is awesome!! Might have to cue that one up today now.

If anyone needs shop out pics or just wants to see how freaking filthy my WCS was, here are my shop out pics.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/91696572@N00/albums/72157716785621376

I couldn't remove all the ball tracks because I don't think this thing was cleaned it's entire life, but it is ar better than what I began with.

Chris

This was the first game I’ve used novus 3 on. That finally got the last parts of the ball trails up.

I’m going nuts here trying to figure out these 2 adjustments in the menu.

Anyone know what they are? The manual is pretty much no help.

(If it’s something simple I should know......... DoH! In advance!)

1BD6F3FE-7FFA-4F27-B22A-89AF524885DD (resized).jpegF39A688A-5ED8-46ED-8C92-F0CCE54B7A7D (resized).jpeg

Where’s your goalie, did he receive a red card? Did you happen to look at the feature adjustments in the manual?

Edit. It’s not very clear in the manual either.
A.2 29 is special challenge but don’t know what that is.
A.2 34 not in manual.

Hey Guys;

Just popped in to say "Hi" and to say we are cutting the WCS PFs right now, should have the first batch of clear coated PFs fairly soon. Going to be a nice PF, so much cool CAD work.

Mike
www.ClassicPlayfields.com

Honestly, some of the best news I've heard in a long while. I love seeing new offerings coming out for such enjoyable pins!

That's absolutely fantastic news Mike. I just finished my Diner playfield swap and it's absolutely amazing. I can highly recommend the CPR Playfields.

Please can you put me down for one.

Isnt the special challenge when you get most goals in multiball to date, special gets lit?

Yeah, I mentioned that I looked in the manual and found the same results. Pretty much zero help in it.

As far my goalie... he broke a week or so ago. Just received my replacement plastic and decal today, will be installing tonight.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/126#post-6001635

That sounds like it could make sense. Ill have to check that out.

Only thing I can guess on A.2 34 Goalie Cnt Delay.... is maybe where the goalie comes to rest after a goal and is not active??

Might mess with it tonight also.

I’ve been looking for a WCS playfield forever. I didn’t think you guys were going to make them. This news just made my day!!! This is great!! A much needed playfield for a lot of games.

Does anyone have a set of target decals spare at all?
Before anyone suggest Mezel Mods or Cointaker I’m not paying $40 shipping for a decal set that’ll fit in an envelope

Do Marco's sell them? Their shipping is much more reasonable now.

They don't but last I checked it was minimum $59 shipping. That's changed?

Weird issue happened a few times now... when the ball is ejected into the shooter lane ready to be plunged, the skill shot registers. I reflowed solder on the header pins of the coin toss opto board. Still did it a couple of times after that. Any ideas? Dirty opto?

Dirty or broken opto sounds possible. Is it always the same skill shot slot?

Did you reflow the actual optos as well? Sounds like the vibration of the trough eject is triggering them. Try switch test and tap the optos and see if the respond.

I’m gonna pay attention to see if it’s the same slot every time.

I only reflowed where the connector pins are, not each of the actual optos. Ill do a switch test like you said

So it was the front opto always registering as soon as a ball was plunged. Tapping on the coin toss area during a switch test showed nothing. However strangely, if during the switch test I pushed up slightly anywhere under the playfield, whether it was the bottom of the trough or pushed up in the bottom of playfield the switch registered. I mean a very slight push upward. I ended up unplugging and replugging the molex connector that goes to the coin toss optos and jiggled some other wires in the area.

Problem fixed!!! For now anyway. Really weird. Next time I’ll remember to reseat connectors before posting. I love an easy fix

Yep, more reasonable shipping from US to Aus

Those are the greatest!! Glad you got it figured out.

Hi all - I’m new to owning machines, so it’s possible this is a common issue, but... today, my machine started acting funny, and would automatically finish a ball, and switch to the next player in the middle of a game. Any ideas on what might be going on?

Sounds like a trough switch is activating telling the game that the ball drained.

How can I trouble shoot that issue?

Switch test, then tap the trough or playfield near the drain and see if the trough switches activate.

hey guys so Im having some minor issues with my machine I could use help with.

First off my sound and music suddenly stopped working while playing and will not come back. I tried reseating the ribbon cables but no luck.

And secondly my flasher above the goalie will not come on. And when I do the flasher test the back corner lights up when goalie cage top is selected. any ideas?

Please test continuity on the two fuses on the audio board. They are on page 1-45 of the manual F501, F502. Both are 3Amp slow Blow fuses.

I assume the beep when the game boots up is not beeping?

The goal cage top flasher is number 17. The ramp rear flashers (left and right) are number 28. They are on two different circuits and I am not near my game to look.

Does anyone have a stencil they'd be willing to mail me? I just ordered my ColorDMD and I saw this mod and had to do it. Thanks in advance

For those that have a colordmd, does the bottom portion of the letters in World Cup USA 94 during attract mode seem too dark compared to the black background?

If yours doesn’t would you mind posting what settings you are using for contrast and brightness? I can’t seem to get mine right, unless that’s the best it can do. BTW I am using HiRES.

Finally finished the restoration job on WCS and delivered it to Pinball Garage in Hamilton, OH. It’s on the floor available to play. Here’s a video I threw together. It’s kinda long; the first half basically goes over everything I did to it, and the second half goes over a bit of game play. Just wanted to share to give others ideas with light mods and such.