Yeah, I didn't mention the individual / specific artwork changes, as there are a LOT of them.

With the kickback, you can tell is you have a prototype through later sample playfield if your kickback lights have numbers on them (1 - 2 - 3). Originally it was designed so you can 'stack' kickback awards. During game development they made this an option in the settings, and removed the numbers from the inserts.

Fire up the hate mail, I finally pulled my rails off.

Now I need to find a set of brass hinges. I think that'll be sufficient for a bit.

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KSUWildcatFan what size and what type of paper did you print those rules cards on? Looking to replace mine

Wish I could help, it came that way when I bought it. I'll ask my wife if she can advise.

This is exactly my plan. This game truly deserves the brass treatment. Need the details KSUWildcatFan!!

So I just finished pulling out some wiring hackery on my WCS. Have it to factory spec again. One thing I notice is that when I power on the pin, there is a quick flash from the lighting on the playfield, (so fast that if it is light in the room, you might not even notice it) and a loud pop sound you'd hear like when turning on a guitar amp, that has its gain turned up. It is silent after this loud sound, and then it boots exactly as it should, but the tone that the game makes to indicate everything is good, is super loud. It sounds like the volume is cranked all the way up. After the tone, the volume is dropped to what it is set to and there are no other anomalies. Game play, lighting, and sound are all perfect.

However, when I go to turn the game off, there is a sound that comes and quickly fades out. Kind of like turning off the radio, and the caps quickly drain of juice, before the sound goes out.

I think it is something on the sound board. I replaced the driver board with a Rottendog board.

Any thoughts?

PinballPlating is where my parts came from. I got a sweet deal on everything from a guy who had pulled them off a different game.

Sadly I didn't remove the tape from the rails so they aren't sticking right..going to have to pull them off and redo at some point.

At a minimum I figure I still need the $50 shooter housing (or I could powdercoat that black along with the door; I'm not sure which way I want to go just yet) and the $135 hinges, but really I'd like to do all of it...trim pieces included. I ran the numbers on just the various trim bits as well as the skillshot ramp and wire forms (both of which are unfortunately exchange parts) along with hinges and the housing and it adds up to $760. Ouch. lol

That's why I think *just* the hinges and perhaps the shooter housing will do okay "for now". I do love the brass look all around though, although I know it's definitely a 'love it' or 'absolutely hate it' sort of deal for most people!

Mine 3!

Ditto

I've got a huge favor to ask. I traded for a WCS. The guy took the backbox off to transport it (which we agreed on to make it easier to transport and fit into my basement. Unfortunately the pictures he took were not detailed and I've tried getting it all back together, but keep blowing fuses.

Would anyone that owns WCS be willing to take detailed pictures of the inside of the backbox and post them.

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, more of a player than a tinkerer, but in these times I may need to make an exception:
I have noticed that frequently the game thinks there is a ball in the goal and the "ejector(?)" keeps firing. This will also sometimes trigger the lock lights before the first lock and messes up multiplay because it loses track of a ball.

I am wondering if this is a known thing, perhaps an easy fix. Seems like a sensor or something is triggering.

Thanks

Mine did that too when I got it. Changed the opto pairs in the goal and striker hideout and it solved the problem.

Excellent, thanks for letting me know. There is a custom circuit you can add that basically is a relay and a cap, as explained by @duffysarcade. The issue is that there are two elements that power on and they don't turn on at the same time, which is why you have the noise. The circuit basically makes it so that the cap in the custom circuit needs to charge before it will open the relay, and by the time this has happened the elements that usually don't start at the same time will be up and running. This prevents the loud popping noise, and should also prevent the noise when powering off the pin.

Here is the thread in which Duffysarcade details it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bride-of-pinbot-makes-loud-screech-on-powerup

Thanks go to Duffysarcade for being a legend!

He just did a video on his youtube channel about his Funhouse, in which he installed this custom circuit and talks about it:

It will be around the 3 minute 22 second mark that he starts talking about the backbox. Excellent video though on an excellent pin!

Mine does that as well... A bit annoying sometimes. My Getaway does not do it as loud though... I'm wondering why they are different.

Did you get pics you needed? I can post a bunch if not, just lmk

I also wanted to mention / vent here about how I had to fix a bunch of wiring hackery on my WCS. This is the second pin I've bought, and on my first pin (Radical) I had a bunch of wiring hackery to fix as well. Now my sample pool is still pretty small, but I just have to say: What is up with operators going to such great lengths avoiding simple things like replacing burnt up connectors and headers, instead of wiring switching power supplies and splicing wires? How is the amount of time necessary to do all that, and money for the parts, a better solution that $2 in parts, and then some time soldering it in?

In both games (Radical and WCS) this was done, because the GI connector burnt up. All that work, to circumvent it, and they would have fixed it better, and cheaper had they just done it right. This seems like a common thing here in Europe. Maybe parts are just harder to get here.

I just can't get over how much effort is put into fixing these the wrong way.

Any of you had problems like that on your WCS or other pins?

Fortunately, I was able to fix the connectors (bought a new driver board), and rip out all of the additional junk. So my WCS is back to factory wiring and is running as intended.

Alright rant finished. Hope you all are having a great day!

GI is an issue with factory wiring on WCS95. Not sure if it’s also an issue on WCS89. But you’ll see what appears to be sloppy wiring on the board, which is in reality jumpers that improve the original poor board design.

Can someone tell me the part number for the screws that mount the ramp to the mini lock playfield. As well as the screws that mount the connector plate that joins the two ramps together.

I some weird behavior with the Up/down post unit assembly when playing multiplayer games and having 2 balls in the lock. When the game tries to drop one of the 2 ball the post is pulled down super fast, way too fast than it should i think... It works fine with one ball in there.

It tries a few time then it goes into search move and drops both ball and start a ball search. The assembly looks fine, the switch test well, i am not sure what could impact the timing on how long the plunger/rod assembly is down...?
Is it a switch adjustment timing between the 2 sw in the lock or something else?

Connector plate screws: 4004-01041-04

BOM lists the following fasteners associated with the mini-playfield. I'm not in front of my machine to know exactly what you're looking for:
4002-01105-06
4808-01175-08

Downtime costs money. So if you don’t have the parts on hand you do a field fix to keep the game running until parts arrive. But when the parts arrive you never get around to fixing it because you have all the other problems to deal with.

If you need more close ups let me know! I'm awaiting my first IR LED replacement from Marcos so it's already "opened up" (but no, the opto is not in the back box )

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These are the two screws in looking for. They go through the plastic into the mini playfield.

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#4x1/2" bugel head wood screws, same ones used for the ramps at the ramp flaps.

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Thanks brother!

Has anyone used comet pinballs kit for this game? I want to get full LEDs but can't decide between sunlight white or cool white for the gi.

Mine has been converted over to 2SMD sunlight white from comet for the GI. I don't personally feel this is a good title for cool white. I like cool white 2SMD in games like Terminator 2 and Demolition Man, where there is a lot of blue. Imo sunlight plays off the green really well.

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Definitely not cool white. Go sunlight or warm white.

Interesting that others are recommending warmer lights. I put in Cool White Comets (my first full LED swap) and love them. I think the machine wants cooler colors, and Wildcat's pic does nothing for -me-. To each his own! And I'm color blind, so my boo boo eyes are seeing things a bit differently too.

What I did was order about 30 different colors/brightnesses/temps and tried them all out. For about $30 it was fun, and after a few hours I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted. Also, Comet had a sampler pack that might work out well for this exercise.

Cool white looks bad in all games except for modern games that were designed for them.

I like the games to look original just brighter.

Absolutely, to each their own. I think sunlight is the perfect compromise for WCS. The picture doesn't look great in some areas because of how bright my Evo BriteCaps are, relative to everything else. This happens with every game I put them in. Looks great in person but my crappy phone can't properly photograph it.

I like warm in most pre-DMD games and that's how I did my taxi, space shuttle and my high speed. F-14 looked great with cool white IMO. Do whatever you happiest, regardless of what anyone else thinks. Unless you want all colored GI, then please.. Don't. Lol

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So no one has had this issue or has any thoughts on this?

I don't play pinball, I just spend all my time swapping LEDs in and out

All seriousness, I have no idea. I'd think switch issue but you said those are testing fine.

Put another spring on the post plunger under the playfield and see if that helps.

Never had this issue on WCS but had the same issue on Sopranos for the boat lock.

Can a few owners post videos of their soccer ball spinning? Mine seems louder than normal and want a baseline to compare it with. Thanks!

Mine has been loud since day one. I think its just something to get used to. Best advice would be to score goals faster to get the ball to turn off sooner LOL

PM sent.

I’ve posted a video before in this thread. Search by my posts only. It was recently.

I found it but the video says it’s unavailable

Weird. Must have deleted it. Sorry about that.

Does anyone have a list of the bulbs needed and or flashers list somewhere. I just want to know how many flashers and lamps of each socket type and possibly location

You could do what I did and print the manual off of ipbd

Thanks!

Does WCS use the same type of flasher bulb for all flashers?

No, some 89, some 906.

My rubbers are neon yellow titans. Was thinking about doing red flippers. What do you guys like better? Yellow, red or one of each?

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Yellow looks nicer with the rest of the rubbers!