(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

8 years ago


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  • 7,073 posts
  • 620 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by lemmings418
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There are 7073 posts in this topic. You are on page 118 of 142.
#5851 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Tried to get this for half an hour tonight. Couldnt get one. Im running LA-2 in the machine. Have to say i have had the game for a long time and cant say ive ever seen a combo scored.

It is indeed left ramp-left ramp-right ramp. The score is 15M. I’m on LX-1.

#5852 1 year ago

Good morning all.
Refresh my memory. How many balls are in this game?
Can't remember.
Thanks.

#5853 1 year ago

5 Balls

#5854 1 year ago

Yep thanks.
That's what I thought.
Putting in a new batch soon.

#5855 1 year ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

It is indeed left ramp-left ramp-right ramp. The score is 15M. I’m on LX-1.

Im thinking i might need to raise the back of my game. When the ball comes around the top left and drops into the return/ball lock ramp it kind of has a back spin on it and will actually either stop for a second or roll backwards a tiny bit. Im wondering if that delay is causing the "combo shot" to time out?

Ill either raise the legs or check with the glass off.

#5856 1 year ago

Btw.... picked this 78 this past weekend. Finally got father and son together side by side

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#5857 1 year ago

Anyone had to replace their goalie recently? And if so where did you find them? The bottom half of mine broke off so I'm needing a replacement plastic as well as the decal. The only one I'm finding in stock is the custom goalie on eBay...they're cool but it's a bit more than I'm looking to spend on my players machine.

#5858 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Im thinking i might need to raise the back of my game. When the ball comes around the top left and drops into the return/ball lock ramp it kind of has a back spin on it and will actually either stop for a second or roll backwards a tiny bit. Im wondering if that delay is causing the "combo shot" to time out?
Ill either raise the legs or check with the glass off.

If you're talking about the hairpin "trap" curve, I think that's the design (hence the "trap" designation).

Maybe the left-left-right sequence depends on the initial position of the diverter?

#5859 1 year ago

I've recently replaced my slingshot rubbers and star posts, and adjusted all the leaf switches. I tuned them to perfection, but I'm finding the leaf-switch sensitivity doesn't hold very well over time. One reason I suspect is that the posts are not holding their position against the tension of the slingshot ring, thereby allowing the ring to close in tighter on the resting position of the switch.

Slingshot posts are secured with a bolt/nut in the bottom of the playfield. Theoretically, the tighter I make the post, the more tension they will be able to withstand straight-up, without sliding. However, if I overtighten, I expect depressions will form in the wood and the posts will eventually crack. Is it possible to make them tight enough without incurring those risks? Or should I just expect the posts to get pulled inward when the ring is on?

#5860 1 year ago

The star posts have a large diameter at the bottom (at the point of contact they make on the playfield); assuming the playfield is flat, and the base of the star posts are flat, the load from any shear (from the bands wanting to "pull" the three posts inward) should not be enough to cause them to pull off the playfield at their outer edges.

With the bands on, if you can slip a feeler gauge/playing card/etc. between the base of the posts and the playfield, I suspect you have bands that are much too small for the game, the base of the posts/playfield are not truly "flat", or, most likely, the threaded metal rods that secure the posts to the playfield are warped themselves or you're not tightening them enough.

I wouldn't worry about overtightening the posts to the point that you think that you will cause indentations in the playfield/paint...these "cured" LLOOOONNNNGGGG ago, and aren't new machines with pooling/clearcoat issues. They are pretty hard and sturdy. I usually tighten the metal post rods down by hand until I can't twist them with my fingers anymore, then switch to micro crescent wrenches and tighten until there is good resistance. You shouldn't be able to slide the posts around when they are secured. Hope this helps.

#5861 1 year ago
Quoted from neodog:

Maybe the left-left-right sequence depends on the initial position of the diverter?

I see what your saying, and agree. In order to pull it off “lock ball” can’t be lit. Or the divertor will open to send any left ramp shot towards the magnet.

#5862 1 year ago

Can someone tell me the difference between tournament settings and factory settings. I know the buy extra ball is disabled but not sure what else. I was curious if the striker awards and tv awards are always in the same order or random?

I also am trying to adjust my ramp gates so the switches activate. But not sure how to set them. Should the switch only be activated when the ball rolls back down the ramp if it doesnt get up all the way?

#5863 1 year ago

Tournament mode cancels extra ball buy-ins, awards points for extra balls (but is a setting I believe for the amount), and as far as I know, the stryker/tv awards are always in the same order, no matter the setting.

The ramp entrance switches should cue the "Awwwwwwww…." sound effect, but the ramp doesn't "count" until further switches down the line are hit; if you half-ramp a shot, it doesn't advance the 5 lock qualifiers for instance.

#5864 1 year ago
Quoted from neodog: Maybe the left-left-right sequence depends on the initial position of the diverter?

Nailed it 3 times last night, Still no combo bonus. Maybe its in a code update. Ill have to do mine.

#5865 1 year ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Tournament mode cancels extra ball buy-ins, awards points for extra balls (but is a setting I believe for the amount), and as far as I know, the stryker/tv awards are always in the same order, no matter the setting.
The ramp entrance switches should cue the "Awwwwwwww…." sound effect, but the ramp doesn't "count" until further switches down the line are hit; if you half-ramp a shot, it doesn't advance the 5 lock qualifiers for instance.

Thanks so much! I'll have to adjust my ramp gates. Because nothing is triggered unless I move the switch manually or literally throw a ball up the ramp with my hand.

#5866 1 year ago

Joined the club a few days ago. A little rough but plays beautifully. Already loving it.

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#5867 1 year ago

Has anyone have some custom coin slot decals?

#5868 1 year ago
Quoted from jorro:

Has anyone have some custom coin slot decals?

I was thinking about trying to make some with the World Cup logo.

#5869 1 year ago

Does anyone have a spare goalie ball trough part #A-17742
I don’t mind a used one, mine has a deep ball groove in it and I’d like to replace it.

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#5870 1 year ago

My spinner seems to barely spin when hit with full force and is not centered in the lane. Any ideas?

#5871 1 year ago
Quoted from DBUM:

My spinner seems to barely spin when hit with full force and is not centered in the lane. Any ideas?

Make sure the arms aren’t catching anything and the plastic washers surrounding the arm that goes through the playfield aren’t too tight. Take the glass off and spin with you hand to really inspect.

#5872 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Make sure the arms aren’t catching anything and the plastic washers surrounding the arm that goes through the playfield aren’t too tight. Take the glass off and spin with you hand to really inspect.

once you get the arms adjusted just right... add a tiny drop of lube oil to each hole where the arms go in and it will spin for days. Nothing beats ripping the ball through a perfectly adjusted spinner.

#5873 1 year ago

While I know I've hit that ramp combo and got the score, I've done it three times recently but no recognition. Odd.

As for that replacement goalie, I got mine from Marcos a few months ago.

#5874 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

once you get the arms adjusted just right... add a tiny drop of lube oil to each hole where the arms go in and it will spin for days. Nothing beats ripping the ball through a perfectly adjusted spinner.

Thanks for the advice!!!

My other question is that when I got my playfield level and the angle right the cabinet is now extremely unlevel. So much so that to hook the playfield in to the recieved bar I have to lift the cabinet so it clicks in. Should I just pick a happy medium between the playfield being level and the cabinet.

#5875 1 year ago
Quoted from DBUM:

My other question is that when I got my playfield level and the angle right the cabinet is now extremely unlevel. So much so that to hook the playfield in to the recieved bar I have to lift the cabinet so it clicks in. Should I just pick a happy medium between the playfield being level and the cabinet.

Check your cabinet for level on the bottom of the front and back panels. IME, I've found that when these are level then the playfield is level and the legs only need adjusted to set the playfield slope. Also, when the front and back panels are not level that means the cabinet is twisted and your hangers won't drop nicely into the receiver bar, and the playfield will really drag on the cabinet sides when being lifted for service.

#5876 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Check your cabinet for level on the bottom of the front and back panels. IME, I've found that when these are level then the playfield is level and the legs only need adjusted to set the playfield slope. Also, when the front and back panels are not level that means the cabinet is twisted and your hangers won't drop nicely into the receiver bar, and the playfield will really drag on the cabinet sides when being lifted for service.

what do you mean by front and back panels

#5877 1 year ago
Quoted from DBUM:

what do you mean by front and back panels

Make sure the bottom of the front and back panel of the main cabinet are level by placing your level against them from below.

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#5878 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Make sure the bottom of the front and back panel of the main cabinet are level by placing your level against them from below.

Ah thankyou thankyou!!

#5879 1 year ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

As for that replacement goalie, I got mine from Marcos a few months ago.

Marco was out of stock last week when I started looking, but just checked again today and they're back. Thanks!

#5880 1 year ago

Hi guys! What can be a reason of the alert like this, how to start repairing it?

WCS F6 sm (resized).jpg
#5881 1 year ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi guys! What can be a reason of the alert like this, how to start repairing it?[quoted image]

the game does not have a upper flipper, i think that the game needs this switch to be activated thats how the board is build, so maybe the optos are dirty or failing
Or theres something wrong with the flipper board.
Try cleaning the optos first and check the interuptor.
Clean with qtip and cleaning alcohol (or homebrew moonshine or 90% vodka )
You can go into switch test and test if you use the flipperbutton two switches activate.

#5882 1 year ago

-deleted inaccurate post-

#5883 1 year ago

F6 is one of the two optos for the purple ticket light lane change. When you press one of the flipper buttons, you activate both the flipper and the lane change light over the jet bumpers.
Check the connections and the optos of the flipper opto boards.
The original manual has a few mistakes on the switch matrix and the fuse chart...

#5884 1 year ago

Pinside user Coyote wrote this in another forum thread. It should be true for what you are experiencing as well:

"Okay, for the record, F8 is the Upper Left Flipper *opto*.

Even if the game does not have an upper left (or right) flipper, the OPTO should still work. When you press the flipper button in, both F4 (L Flipper opto) and F8 (UL Flipper Opto) should activate. (Or for the right flipper button, F2 & F6) Again, this should happen *regardless* of whether the game HAS an upper flipper."

I just bought a WCS94 yesterday, and it shows an error on F6 and F8. I read about it yesterday, and it seems a lot of people are able to fix it by simply cleaning the opto. So that's definitely what i'm gonna try first myself.

#5885 1 year ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Pinside user coyote wrote this in another forum thread. It should be true for what you are experiencing as well:
"Okay, for the record, F8 is the Upper Left Flipper *opto*.
Even if the game does not have an upper left (or right) flipper, the OPTO should still work. When you press the flipper button in, both F4 (L Flipper opto) and F8 (UL Flipper Opto) should activate. (Or for the right flipper button, F2 & F6) Again, this should happen *regardless* of whether the game HAS an upper flipper."
I just bought a WCS94 yesterday, and it shows an error on F6 and F8. I read about it yesterday, and it seems a lot of people are able to fix it by simply cleaning the opto. So that's definitely what i'm gonna try first myself.

I bought 10-15 of these just in case...
https://www.pinballshop.nl/electronics-parts/switches/opto-sensor/

#5886 1 year ago

Oh, MFER. Already over the machine high score after beating Germany, starting ball 3, machine resets and buhbye to it all. Where the hell did I put my sledgehammer?!

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#5887 1 year ago

What’s the chance that someone has a spare good wireform and the ramp protectors (hole backstops) laying around?

#5888 1 year ago

My one random shutdown sure went south in a hurry. A few hours later I could reproduce it just about every time I pressed the flippers simultaneously..then it got worse and a few minutes later it got to the point where pressing EITHER flipper did it. So whatever 'went bad' sure had it happen in a hurry, but not instantaneously (like a fuse would).. Long story short, all of my boards are pulled and packed up to go off for full servicing. I'm overdue anyway, so I guess this is the push I needed. Bleh.

#5889 1 year ago

Cant get the long code for credit to work,
Any of you had this one working?
Yeah i know counting is not my strong point

WCS LX2:

13R + 1L + 1R + 1L + 20R + 1L, Hello World

12R + 1L + 5R + 1L + 4R + 1L, Hello World

16R + 1L + 13R + 1L + 12R + 1L

1R + 1L + 2R + 1L + 3R + 1L

16R + 1L + 15R + 1L + 16R + 1L, Credits

19R + 1L + 1R + 1L + 3R + 1L, Special thanks

22R + 1L + 12R + 1L + 11R + 1L, Special thanks

1 week later
#5890 1 year ago

My WCS is having issues scoring a goal from the upper eject hole (free kick) kick out up by the goal. The solenoid just seems to be too weak to make it all the way into the goal. It almost makes it but just a little bit short. Any ideas on how to fix this / adjust the strength of that solenoid?

Thanks
Ed

#5891 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

My WCS is having issues scoring a goal from the upper eject hole (free kick) kick out up by the goal. The solenoid just seems to be too weak to make it all the way into the goal. It almost makes it but just a little bit short. Any ideas on how to fix this / adjust the strength of that solenoid?
Thanks
Ed

Did it work before? would take the mech apart, clean it, check if the coil sleeve is in good condition, make sure it’s not binding up.

#5892 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

My WCS is having issues scoring a goal from the upper eject hole (free kick) kick out up by the goal. The solenoid just seems to be too weak to make it all the way into the goal. It almost makes it but just a little bit short. Any ideas on how to fix this / adjust the strength of that solenoid?
Thanks
Ed

Also make sure it’s not just going too far left or right. Page 1-20 in the manual discusses adjusting the arm.

#5893 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

My WCS is having issues scoring a goal from the upper eject hole (free kick) kick out up by the goal. The solenoid just seems to be too weak to make it all the way into the goal. It almost makes it but just a little bit short. Any ideas on how to fix this / adjust the strength of that solenoid?
Thanks
Ed

Replace the spring. When it goes soft it takes away the energy from the solenoid.

#5894 1 year ago

Got a new bendable red LED from comet for the VUK so it looks more natural and not a big hole, and some new pop bumper ring LEDs as well. Huge upgrade!

IMG_20200706_160418 (resized).jpgIMG_20200706_192738 (resized).jpg
#5895 1 year ago
Quoted from Wanimal:

Got a new bendable red LED from comet for the VUK so it looks more natural and not a big hole,

Looks great! I have to get that for mine as well. I was just thinking how bad it looks with the big hole and a bulb way behind it!

#5896 1 year ago
Quoted from Wanimal:

Got a new bendable red LED from comet for the VUK so it looks more natural and not a big hole, and some new pop bumper ring LEDs as well.

Can you let me know the part numbers for those upgrades you did. I was just on Comets site and couldn’t find them. Thanks!

#5897 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

Can you let me know the part numbers for those upgrades you did. I was just on Comets site and couldn’t find them. Thanks!

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-rings (with these I got the teal/cool white combo)

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects (red frosted wedge)

I really can't state how good the pop bumpers look in person. Pictures don't do it justice.

IMG_20200707_015600 (resized).jpg
#5898 1 year ago

That 3rd pop bumper is a pain to get to under the ramp isn't it!

#5899 1 year ago
Quoted from Zzap:

That 3rd pop bumper is a pain to get to under the ramp isn't it!

I tried for like 5 minutes with my flexible screwdriver and gave up. I'm doing a full top end shop tomorrow night so I'll get it then.

#5900 1 year ago

Finally finished going through my game. The new ramps and new plastics make this game look so nice!

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