I tried moving the front faceplate with no avails the cutouts can't be centered any better. I also tried some black tape, but it looked worse and removed it.

Joined the club with a pretty exceptional example of a game. A good cleaning and a few little things here and there and it will be solid. Put some LEDs in tonight and I’ll get the rest finished after I put a list together.

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Nice one. Game looks pretty clean.
Congrats on picking up one of the
funnest games ever made!

I see, so it's just not pictured in the map.

Okay, in the center of this photo are the posts in question. You're saying the "G" rubber goes around all three posts in the center? (the triangle between two green star posts and one mini spear-shaped post?)

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Ah, 7/8" is length, whereas 7/16" is diameter, that almost makes sense. So Marco didn't even measure the diameter. And now my machine is disassembled and ready for new rubbers and reassembly, and I have 14 post sleeves that are 14% oversized (they are all 1/2" OD) with no hope of correction in the middle of a 4-day weekend.

$%#@.

...

Is there crying in pinball?

At least they miscounted and included the correct number of sleeves (the packing list shows 17, but 14+4 == 18).

BTW, the configuration in the photo linked here is the only configuration I've seen in my search for photos and videos online:

pinside photo
(from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/2#post-927159)

So if G is supposed to surround 3 posts it seems that quite a lot of people get it wrong.

Excellent looking game! Welcome to the club.

Hey Its_me_aj, Congrats on getting this awesome pin. Mine is never leaving - too unique. You need the metal stops that are at each ramp exit. It reduces the impact on the plastic. I'm not sure if anyone sells the metal stops. You may need to fabricate these.

@neodog: yes a lot of people get it wrong, as well as some nuts or screws etc. I’ll show you some photos of this assembly and the rubber when the quarantine ends and I can travel to the pin position (I have a Blu-ray Disc inside the pin with a ton of info and photos).

And yes, the 1-1/14” black rubber wraps around the two green star posts and the metal cone-head post. Most people here for some reason in their restoration use a 1” black rubber around the two green star posts and a mini post black rubber. I don’t know why though... maybe it’s easier to find a 1” rubber or all the rubber sets got it wrong.

Don’t panic, just use your old rubbers or the wrong ones if they fit to enjoy the game for the time being and order the correct ones.

Got to the World Cup final twice tonight and didn’t score more than 5 goals either time and somehow won. Anyone know how much you get for each goal?

Pretty sure it’s 50M mate

Okay not as much as I thought. Trying to orchestrate a way to get to 4.5 billion with EBs off and it’s really hard.

It looks like it's in great shape, but is that mold on the flippers, or pitting, (or designer mods!) or just spots? I've never seen flippers look like that.

I just checked, it’s 75M for each goal in the World Cup final. 500M for winning
beating #1 Germany during final draw multi ball which is 250M then 50M for each victory lap is also another option. Then each multi all you get back to once you reach #1 the first jackpot is 250M

Yep. The closest I’ve come is when I get to Germany on the first MB then each one after that can be worth 500m or so each if I play it fairly well. Key is not crapping out that first multiball and make sure to score at least ten goals in World Cup final.

Probably try some more today.

I've been finding that 7/16" OD sleeves are hard to come by, so I took a look at the parts list to see if I might encounter some insight: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Parts_List.txt

I noticed a couple of anomalies:

1) That list only shows 12 (11 level 2, 1 level 3) instances of the 3/16" ID rings (23-6641), which are noted in your table as 'B'. There appear to be 12 'B' marked on your map (which seems consistent with what's on my PF).
2) That list only shows 13 instances of sleeves 23-6556 (which are 7/16" OD). Not only does your table list 14 of them, I can count them by hand on my machine.

Any idea what the discrepancies are? I couldn't find anything in the list that was similar but listed differently, it looks like the ipdb parts list is just short. Do you remember correcting for this or anything?

Edit: I initially counted 13xB on your map, but now I only count 12. Do you have double B's on any of the posts?

May be a prototype thing - at least with #2 above (the sleeves) - the Tackle area used to be (in the prototype) three standup targets, separated by sleeved posts. Now it's a normal rubber with a leaf switch.

Yes indeed I corrected one or two rubber number entries of the official parts list. It is not rare for a BOM list to have incorrect number of a specific part, and one of the reasons is indeed prototype to final product conversion of the list. Although these discrepancies as you call them are very few in any particular list, they do exist.
That is why I always double-check these lists with hundreds of photos of owners here disassembling their pinball machines.
Trust me when I say, one of my hobbies is archiving any photo I can find online for a particular game I’m restoring.
And oh my... wcs94 is one of the most complicated assembled pins!

This, of course, does not make me right in everything. I may very well have missed a part or put the wrong one in an assembly. You can never be 100% sure unless you find a NIB pin and see the original parts

Little issue with my WCS... After I turn it on, and for few minutes, the sound is pretty bad (static in the background). After 5 or 10 minutes, the symptoms are gone and everyhting sounds good... Any idea ?

Capacitors? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_DCS_Sound_Board

"What Goes Wrong

The smoothing capacitors C20 and C21 are often at the end of their useful lives. The chip amp, like the Honey Badger, really doesn't care, and will accomodate capacitor variance. However, replacing them will make even the pre-DCS sound much richer.

The coupling capacitors at C32 and C41 can fail."

Thanks! I'll try... anyway I keep reading replacing the capacitors can make a big difference in audio quality... so cannot hurt.

Would anyone have a video of an optimal "assist" eject hole ? Mine seems weak... but I'm not not even sure about the strength it's supposed to have...

If you look a few posts above, I found that assist eject hole spring is different from the one in the other two eject holes and that makes a big difference in kick-Power!
Check your manual or the grey parts book to see if you have the correct spring there first (grey spring- not red).
If the spring is the correct part #, then usually alignment of the hole assembly or solenoid failing is the culprit

It’s like stain spots from a cleaning material. New flipper bats will fix it

Damn this game is addictive!!!
I did remember i liked it when i was young, but man...keeps me comming back
Just one more game......

And i dont even like soccer!

Ordered a new ramp, mine has a pretty sturdy done rapair on it.
Doesnt look that bad but i just kept thinking of reasons why i should buy a new ramp.
And now .... only because it helps the economy i had to buy one new!

They are now available. Goalies in the original national jersey. I have Germany, USA or Original. Brazil and Italy coming soon. $10 ea. including worldwide postage.

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Amazing idea! I might have to get a few of these!

Got my new ramps in today!
Mine hade a stirdy but big repair on it

Only thing im missing is the part that holds the ramps together above pass/cointoss

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Hi guys,
Annyone know how this ramp attachment part is called, the number or where to find one?

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I believe it's "01-12491 plate-back ramp connect"

Thank man!

Is it me or is the Tackle target the most useless thing ever? Like, you really can't aim for it, it's only 10M, and it's tucked away where you forget it's even there.

The two times I've had a credit dot appear, it was always the tackle switch not being hit for 50 games, so that should tell you something, haha.

The original intent was for it to be three standup targets, instead of the pre-stern mono-target that it is now.

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Would someone who thinks they have a nominal (or even quiet) sounding soccer ball motor mind posting a video, showing how it performs during the rotation test? It would be helpful to have some perspective about what's achievable.

My soccer ball is noisy. I drilled open the gearbox, cleaned it out and re-greased it; I'm not sure it helped, as it's still quite noisy. It does look like teeth are worn in the middle of the driver gear, but adjusting the position of the motor to use a different part of the gear didn't really help either.

What is this "quiet sounding soccer ball" witch craft you speak of??? LOL You can hear my soccer ball spinning in the next room.

Yep they're loud alright.
Here's what you can do to
"condition" yourself:
Slide the glass down, start a game, and listen to that thing for 5 minutes. Then slide it back up and well, it's amazing how quiet it is now.
When the effect begins to fade simply repeat.
Works I promise.

I was shooting some ramps and got a 3-way combo score. Does anyone know exactly what shots will get the combo?

Thanks @chuckwurt! What volume level did you have the game set to?

The ball was comparably quiet in the video, I had to really crank up the volume to hear it. Is that a fair representation of how it sounds in person?

10 or so.

Yep. I have to really crank up the volume to hear it as well.

Jk. Pinball machines are loud. I wouldn’t mess with the soccer ball motor. You’ll more than likely be disappointed with the results.

Left ramp two times in a row, then right ramp.

I think it's 50 million points, but more importantly, oh so satisfying, especially when the final right ramp shot qualifies the lock and the magnet picks it up on the return. Smooth as buttah'!

Why have i not seen this?? I guess we know what ill be doing as soon as I get home today! LOL

THE most satisfying thing I have ever done in WCS, and it will probably never happen again as it would be incredibly difficult to line up is:

Shoot the 3 way combo with final draw lit;

when the ball is returned to the left flipper, flip it into stryker's hideout (while extra ball mode is running) for the (uncredited) 4-way combo;

Get the extra ball "CRACK!!!", while also surpassing the replay score and getting another extra ball "CRACK!!";

ball is kicked out of stryker's hideout to the right flipper for a perfectly timed on-the-fly back hand into the scoop (for an uncredited 5-way combo) to start multi-ball.

Hnnngggg!

Haha

Like mentioned in this topic before by someone, i put my setting for multiball to
Last easy release to 1
That way you can lock 2 balls and so start mb by hitting the ramps

It only does so the first mb after that you have to shoot final draw

I've got some pretty major ball hop on my right flipper lane. Is the best way to adjust it to bend the top of the metal guide out? Typically there are screws, posts, and guides here that can be loosened and moved, but the metal guide here is pretty solid.

I just finished rebuilding my playfield (my first), and in the process realized that aligning the guides with the flippers was a thing I could do. To do it, I loosened the screws, flexed the guide (which was indeed stiff, but I didn't permanently bend it), then tightened them again... it seems to hold well enough.

The other variable of course is flipper alignment. I've aligned mine rotationally, which changes the line (and to a lesser extent the position) the guides should align to, but I didn't do anything to make sure mine were properly centered on their holes (if indeed that's a thing you can do).

Tried to get this for half an hour tonight. Couldnt get one. Im running LA-2 in the machine. Have to say i have had the game for a long time and cant say ive ever seen a combo scored.