I have all the ramps as I’m considering replacing mine with the new ramps I bought a while back. Since mine are in such good shape, not sure what I’d charge. Sent you a PM.

Realized I had the middle wires all one spot to the right which is why I lost left GI. Probably not a good thing long term, so I still have work ahead, but I moved solid orange from 2 to 3 and got right GI back. Installed my new evos (top right is a PITA).
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My set is used but in good condition. I ask 100eur for this set but shipment to USA will cost more than the price.
If somebody in Europe is interessed, PM me please.

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Nice t/s. Looks like you didn't insert the polarizing keys when re-pinning those connectors? They prevent inserting the plugs wrong.

https://www.pinballlife.com/156-polarizing-key-for-molex-crimp-stuff-housings.html

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Not on the bottom one, no. I do have the keys and I'll put one in. I'm glad I didn't though, that's how I figured out that pin 3 for right GI return fixed my issue. I just don't know if that's going to present an issue long term or not. It seems really strange that apparently both J120 and J121 have cold solder / pin issues on that second pin..

Has anyone tried a Pinsound board in their World Cup Soccer and made a recording? I see that there is one new soundtrack on their website for this pin. I have put pinsound boards in just about every game I have owned that there was an original soundtrack for and love them, especially my former Star Trek Next Generation and Black Rose. Comically I have one installed in my Addams Family, however on that pin, I prefer the original sound versus the remix, which my friend prefers over the original. At least now the sound is in 2.1 surround! Already replaced the speakers with Flipper Fidelity, was just looking to see what next upgrade to do after I replace the DMD for a Color DMD went OT comes back to my work.

Hey guys Im having trouble knowing what size rubber to put on the spikes posts. The tiny ones or the slightly bigger but still tiny ones lol. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Also how tight should those posts be I assume just snug like the other posts. I am referring to the posts that have a nut built into the post.

Personal preference. Pick the size you like best.

Anyone know where I can find a replacement cable? It's coming off the Opto board on the front left of the machine (see finger point). Mine is flaky and when I move it around I get errors.

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My issue: TV Award scoop doesn't eject the ball during game play. The mode starts when the ball goes in, so the opto is registering. In tests the opto is good and the coil fires. Ideas?

Re-Pin the connector.

Might have some cracked solder joins on the pins. I would pull the board out and look on the backside to see what they look like, and reflow the solder on the pins.

Where did you get those decals? I have the multi light disc in place of the single bulb, where it shines green led UP, and white led DOWN to light the post. But decals like this could be kind of fun.

Hey guys so I recently rebuilt my goalie assembly and now the motor is really loud and the goalie doesn't move to the left very much. Any ideas?

Sounds like something is binding. Take it apart and try again?

I rebuilt it and still same problem. I packed the gearbox with grease therefore I think it's causing to much resistance. Might try and clean out the gear box by soaking it in alcohol and using oil as a lubricant instead.

Here's is a link to the video I took

When it comes to grease, a very little bit of Super Lube goes a long way.

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After looking at your video, I need to check mine possibly tomorrow after work to see what is different. Unless another pinsider can chime in faster. There must be an adjustment out since the motor is turning fine, although It seems loud, but it is rotating the spindle just fine.

This stuff is awesome. I used it on my space shuttle spinner and it goes for days now. Great stuff to have in your tool box. I have the syringe style version to get into small spaces. Just a drop goes a long way for a long time.

yeah i think i may have just forced a bit too much in the gearbox im gonna clean them out and lightly lubricate

Totally. I have the syringe version as well for spinners. it's awesome. I use a q-tip to clean it off after applying and there is still plenty left after.

Hey guys so I drilled out the rivets on the gearbox. Im assuming once I clean them out I should spread a little grease on each gear and not over do it

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Wow, looks like a Mind Flayer in there! Yes, clean it all out and put just a little bit on each gear. Not guaranteed to fix your issue but should work better.

Mind Flayer Stanger Things Season 3

Should my lights be dimming everytime a flipper is fired? I assume that's normal due to the power draw

My lights dim briefly. The screen also gets a tiny bit frazzled when the ball kicks up the habitrail after a goal, like there's too much voltage drop. Despite taking some things off there may still be too much plugged in on that same outlet (for me).

What's the easiest way to change the GI bulbs on the middle left (under the mini playfield)? I'm thinking if I just drop the standup target through the playfield I should be able to get to the two bulbs. I've got warm white bulbs there I think, but I'm guessing they're the old style of LEDs and are either 1SMD or not SMD at all. They simply aren't as bright as I think the game needs. But I'm not looking to take the whole thing apart to change them right now..

Hi folks, first pinside post.

I've had my World Cup Soccer for about 7 years now, it's my first pin (may it also be my last).

It had a growing number of small problems when I bought it, and problems I've either ignored or for which I've only implemented tiny workarounds. For all these measures it's worked great -- mostly.

Over this recent Christmas with a house full of family, two bridge rectifiers failed, all the solenoids and flashers stopped working, and no amount of duct tape or Fonzie touch would fix it. So I embarked on a campaign to improve the machine.

Prior done list:

- (2013) **Bought** Cliffy protectors
- (2014) Fixed a chronically stuck ball at the lock magnet using a toothpick as a wedge
- (2015) Bypassed faulty GI connections with jumpers and hook clamps
- (2015) **Installed** Cliffy protectors
- (2017) Replaced the failed plasma with ColorDMD (one-color mode)
- (2018) Replaced the goalie plastic (he broke in half -- THAT was a HARD TACKLE!)
- (Occasionally) Open the backbox and reseat a bunch of connections get lighting/sound working again

Done in 2020:

- Replaced bridge rectifiers BR3 and BR4 and accompanying caps (no power to solenoids == no game)
- Both ramps have been cracked and split at the ball drop, for years: I glued them back together, secured and protected them with mylar
- Replaced worn mylar around the lock-magnet
- Replaced broken star posts (almost every single one was smashed at the bottom)
- Replaced other plastics (header, pop caps, the big plastic on the left that seems to break on everyone)
- Replaced worn/partially torn rubbers (including flippers... which were worn so much a the tip you couldn't aim for the ramps)
- Added additional fender washers for more protection
- Quieted the noisy transformer (it's now a whisper)
- Swapped out all lighting for LED (this is still ongoing... it's hard if you're sensitive to 60hz-flicker)
- Cut out bad GI headers/connectors and replaced them with solid connections.
- Cleaned and waxed the field for the first time (wow... such dirty! such clean! such fast!)
- Carefully cleaned the worn ball drop slots and treated the splintered edges with super-glue
- Reversed the spin of the soccer ball
- Replaced missing (!) screws on loose flipper assemblies
- Flashed a Color DMD color rom. Yay!

Todo:

- Fix and secure the ramps for good
- Replace the rest of the rubbers and star posts
- Make the soccer ball and goalie quiet
- Replace cracked roll-over buttons
- Install new Cliffy carbon-fiber protectors
- Install LED OCD to get that strobing under control
- Get mylar protection around remaining rollover slots
- Adjust the right flipper
- <too many other things to list>

Having gone through this process, I'm amazed at how many things can be broken or imperfect and still have a usable machine.

I suppose I shouldn't be, I'm a software engineer; I'm quite familiar with the process of creating usably broken software. I thought the real world would be substantially more sensitive to flaws, but I think it might actually be less.

I'm appreciative of the decades' worth of wisdom people have posted to sites like this one... some of these morsels of knowledge I simply wouldn't have gotten any other way.

Issue: Securing the bottom end of the right plastic ramp.

One of the issues I'm trying to address with my machine is that the right ramp wobbles when the ball comes down the track. The left side of the plastic ramp has two eyelets on the left side that are mounted onto two elevated posts above the right sling-shot.

The bottom right side of the ramp isn't secured by anything... the slightest amount of force (as with a ball careening around the corner) will cause that side of the ramp to sag and put stress on the left side. This doesn't make any sense to me... shouldn't there be SOMETHING securing the right side of the ramp? I would think it would be designed to rest on supports in a gravity neutral way, not to be constantly levering against those huge posts all the time. This is doubtlessly what caused the ramp's eyelets to crack. In fact, the right side of the ramp rubs slightly against one of the brass coin toss nuts. That's as close as anything comes to offering support on that side of the ramp.

Aren't those particular bulbs accessible from underneath by unscrewing a mini-PC board and pulling it out? That's how I accessed 90% of the GI bulbs. For two bulbs there would only be one screw holding it.

I used a manual nut-driver so as not to stress the threading; those screws definitely do not need to be tight.

Yeah, I realized that quickly after posting (doh! I'm used to all my sys11 and older stuff where GI is buried and a nightmare) and deleted the post.. Or so I thought. All better now. Still lots I want to switch from warm white to sunlight... But I'm out of bulbs.

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Hey guys so it looks as though my soccer ball isnt screwed down onto the spinng plate but just firction fit. Do you think this is an issue it doesnt seem to move around to much.

Hey @neodog. In addition to the two slingshot support posts there should be another one just above the coin toss mech, and the 'Coin Toss' plastic is attached to the ramp in two places. This is all that mine has and it is pretty secure. Sounds like you may need to reinforce those mounting points? I have used this thread for ideas:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-solvent-to-repair-pinball-ramps-and-plasticsend-of-story

I don't think Comet sells the exact bulbs that are in the PF flashers but I'm placing an order anyway and I've got one of the yellow ones out. Anyone know which are the closest/"best" from what they offer?

Is the screw completely missing or just spinning freely? If it was just missing I would want to find a replacement (with a right-sized washer) and not bet my luck the friction holds forever. If the ball did manage to ride up the post it would likely put more strain on the rubber.

If the screw is stripped, I'd replace it. If the post is stripped, I'd probably wait-and-see in that case.

I think the screw makes it easier to see wobbles accurately.

Yessssssssssssss, finally! Too bad I totally screwed up the last ball after beating Germany. Oh well. First time I've ever beaten the wizard mode! It only took THREE damn extra balls to do it!

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Congrats! Does the machine go ape shit when you win?

Pretty sure it did. I've got a Superflux Surround Flash Kit on mine so generally speaking it goes pretty apeshit all the time. My heart was beating pretty damn fast as I made it to the final and was even worse when I won... So I don't remember lol

Can anyone tell me the steps I need to take to change the rubbers next to "Tackle" to the right of the left ramp. How difficult are they to change. I guess the top ramp needs to come off? Also what size rubbers are required there?

All this pandemic free time ive had lately I was able to get our spare room cleared out and get a couple games set back up.

Glad I found this site, been a while since ive been in the hobby.

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I assume you're talking about the GI lights, not the lights in your room. If so, mine dim briefly also. It's subtle, I have to look closely to notice.

Do you use LEDs for GI?

I've learned that LEDs are likely more sensitive to AC voltage dips because A) they turn on/off instantaneously when current stops, rather than continuing to glow like a filament would, and B) they have a hard minimum voltage to light. Putting these together: even when operating normally, LED bulbs turn off 120 times per second when running on AC. For example, for a fully rectified LED bulb with a 3 volt minimum: while the 6.3VAC sine wave drops between +3VAC and -3VAC, the LED would be off; this occupies 2.6ms out of each 8.33ms cycle; so it's actually only on for 68% of the time. If the voltage sags because of a flipper, the sine wave amplitude is smaller, so it spends less time over the 3V minimum, resulting in a longer off-time and creating the perception of a dimming bulb. At 5.3VAC, the bulb would be off for 4.5ms out of the 8.33ms cycle, so now it's only on 46% of the time. So even a sag of only 1VAC results in an immediate 33% reduction in apparent brightness.

With incandescent there is still a dimming, but as this video shows

it can take several cycles for the filament to cool to the level imposed by a new voltage. Until it cools and the resistance reduces, the change in light output will be proportional to the change in nominal voltage... so you wouldn't immediately see a 33% drop in brightness from a loss of just 1 volt, and possibly never would.

Both exit lanes have adjustable posts at the top of them, with 3 different positions governing how tight the exit lane is. What is the default setting for these posts? I found both of mine in the most open setting (which is presumably the most difficult). I'm wondering if it was installed that way at the factory per "normal difficulty" design or if it was adjusted to make it harder on the clientele.

Similar question to the one asked by @andypc.

I bought a set of black replacement rubbers from Marco: How do I know what size rubber goes where? I could just replace the size written on the rubbers I remove from the machine, but someone could have installed the wrong one to begin with.

DBUM I'm thinking of doing this, but never done anything like it. What did you use to drill out the rivets? How did you secure it again when you were done: replace the rivets with nuts and bolts or use new rivets?

Also, did it help in the end?

Hey man so i used a dremel tool drill bit and i just bascically drilled the cap of the rivet off and tapped it out with a punch and hammer. Dont know the size sorry just picked one that fit well in the recessed part of the rivet on the one side. I didnt reseal the gearbox as it has 4 screws in each corner holding it together as well. But i plan to add small machine screws with nuts in the future. And yes it made both the soccer ball and goalie run flawlessly! But the soccer ball is still fairly loud. I think my motor is getting old. Good luck!

Oddly enough, I just assumed the rubber chart was in the manual like every other pin Ive owned, I went through it, and nothing! It lists posts coils, etc, I have all the paper work for my game, even the original registration card, but zip on rubber sizes and exact locations. Any light on this subject would be much appreciated since I will eventually change out the white rubbers with Titan synthetic rubbers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinside-rubber-ring-database-by-themetitle#post-4342653

Thank you for the link Grandnational007!

After researching every photo of unmodded WCS94 I could possibly find, I made my own rubber chart and uploaded it on this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/98#post-4848696

I installed a set of cliffy's to my WCS recently, and I had to remove the goalie trough and striker's hideout from under the playfield. When doing so, some washers dropped down, and I can't for the life of me figure out where they belong. I reinstalled without them and the ball will sometimes get stuck between the trough and the hideout during game play.

Any thoughts or pics? Thanks!

Goalie target broke yesterday didn’t have one but I did have a decal.decided to make my own
Thin rubber a scrap piece of plastic some rubber cement a scroll saw a belt sander and I’m back to playing today

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