GREAT job fellas! That was it. Cleaned it up with the iron. All good! Thanks!

Thanks for the tip of those sunlight white Leds from Comet. Back is sunlight and the front is cool white.
Back is much nicer.

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Bam!! Perfection in backglass

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Hey guys so I just got a world Cup soccer and it's my very first machine. Im having two problems with it. The first is the right slingshot switch when tested is also registering another trough switch of some sort. I will upload a picture in the future. When I look under the platforms someone has soldered an additional wire from the right slingshot switch to some other random wire under the playfield

Second problem. The ball gets stuck in the goal trough right before the striker popper coil. But it only happens on a goal that activates a striker award. Maybe dirty opto? Any ideas?

If the ball is getting stuck in the goal check the trough for small divets in the trough.
You can either sand them down or what I’ve done is lay piece of petg over top.

I did this on my ball trough on front.

Finally done.
Wil replace some leds on cointoss and those 3 in the back.
Clear white with yellow silicon bulb cap on it.
Waiting for my new speaker display and this pin is 100% ready to rest.

Do I need to install an extra spotlight or do you think it is ok?
In real it seems ok but on the picture it seems there a 2 dark spots.

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So I fixed the goal trough probably thanks for the advice. The other problem Im having is when I do a switch test the right slingshot is registering as both the right slingshot and tv ball popper. But when the ball hits the slingshot only the slingshot coil fires and not the tv popper. In just wondering where it got crossed and how to fix it.

Could anyone give me a link or reference for those 4 little screws to connect the large ramp assembly to each other?
Thanks

Check diodes and check wire colours. tv ball popper is an opto I think? So check if the slingshot firing causes opto beam disruption or an opto-board connector issue.

this has been answered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs94-screw-id-request#post-2684104

Finally won the World Cup! Took me over a year and a half but I did it. Such a thrilling game win those jackpots and goals are getting called out.

Final result

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Little gimmick

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Hey guys Im getting an error from the test report. Check switch FO3 Left Flipper E.O.S. It seems fine and its functioning as it should. Any ideas

Remember this is a normally open switch. Make sure that’s the case and the flipper closes it when engaged.

Great idea on the half dollar! Just ordered one on eBay. Thanks.

Switch #41 isn’t working on my machine. It’s an opt switch so I figure the transmitter was bad and changed it. Needless to say it doesn’t work still. I had continuity back to the opt board. Stuck on this one..

Check if the transmitter is working with your cell phone camera (front camera preferably if you have a high-tech cell - because usually front cameras don’t have infrared filters).

If the transmitter is working, change the receiver too

If you are sure both are working and you have continuity back to the opto board, the problem is either in the opto board or the WPC board or the connections to them. All of these are a bitch to troubleshoot... but check the optos first and then we’ll see

Hey guys so on my left orbit it looks like I may be missing a post or something. Basically the spinner shot right under the left ramp there looks to be a post missing. Can someone confirm if my machine is missing something?

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Missing nothing. You’re good.

I was going to be a smartass and say the mini playfield...but I digress

Agree that everything looks good.

You are missing a circular plastic with a soccer player performing a bicycle kick on it--it's attached to a long machine screw and spacer.

provato provides the bill of materials in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/110#post-5403548

Edit:
Some images from the pinside gallery:

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really just a protection for the SW, shouldn't affect gameplay significantly though

Joined the club today.. still on the way home.
850 mile round trip
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Damn that's a nice looking machine. Congrats buddy. Why does everyones pop bumpers and lane guides look way more blue than factory? Is it bulbs or different bumper caps. Mine look dark green lol

Probably a stupid connector issue. Transmitter isn't getting power. Need to check continuity between mpu and mini opt circuitboard.

Edit Fixed problem colder solder joint on opt board..

The original factory pop bumper caps with the raised center (03-9030-25) are lighter in color and harder to find than the readily available replacements (03-8254-25). Marco lists the originals, but I've never seen them for sale. Pinball Life carries them, but for more than twice the price of the replacements.

Having tried, both, I splurged on the Pinball Life original models. Coupled with Comet Teal LEDs, they really brighten up the table and look like they belong there. I didn't feel that way with the replacement bumper caps.

I need some help choosing leds. I have no idea where to start. And you mean comet cyan? Non-frosted? I have the ones from pinball life.

Yeah, Comet's site lists the bulb as "teal (cyan)." I use frosted. Comet is my go-to company for LEDs. Their purple passion was basically made for WCS purple inserts. But I have only have clear purple passion bulbs (and I couldn't tell you why that's the case).

Do you use frosted for all your bulbs in the game? I feel like clear makes sense for under inserts. I have no idea where to even start. Just want to start with the pop bumpers for now and replace as needed.

All my bulbs are frosted. And on further thought, the comet purple passions aren’t so much “clear” as “purple translucent.”

Do you have LEDs installed now?

Here is mine. Some are coin taker bulbs but most colors are comet.
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I have a mix of led based on the previous owner. But maybe bulbs are burnt out so i needed some advice on where to start. Ill probably start with the cyan pop bumpers and the burnt out ones.

You’ll save money buying in bulk. I do prefer the frosted. Color match the inserts, and do the math on whether it makes sense to buy a 25 pack or individuals. If it’s borderline, but the 25 so you can experiment. I prefer the natural “cool white” for general illumination.

Thanks for the advice man. I have some werid issues going on with my lamp test. When i check the roll over lamps i get some really really dim flickering in some other lamps. Like almost no colour but I can see them just flickering. Is this normal?

It is normal but very much undesirable. It is called ghosting. Best solution is to install an LED OCD board. 2nd best solution, is to replace all bulbs with non-ghosting LED’s. The OCD board is fairly easy to setup, but also allows some customization of each bulb. Google it and see what you think. I have this board in at least 3 of my games (lost track).

Thanks so much good to know! I'll check both out. I have another question. When I run through the flasher tests no flashers come on and same with lamp and flasher test. But when I play a game they function properly. Any ideas?

Interlock switch
(I bet you don’t have solenoids either in test mode )

The coin door has to be closed for the flashers to work.

When the door is open you can pull out the interlock switch so the high volt solenoids & flashers work in test mode. It's white and has little dents in it to pull on:

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Or if you are super lucky, you found one of these in your cabinet:

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This is an interlock switch clip that fits over the switch to hold it closed while the coin door is open. I've been collecting pins for 10 years and hadn't seen one until my most recent pin - @WCS that came in a container buy from Italy!

I just zip tie cardboard over all my interlocks.

The first couple games (models, not games of WCS) had switches that couldn't be pulled out - which is where those yellow things came in handy.

Edit to add: If your game does NOT have the 'pull out' style, you can easily swap yours for one that does.

First diagnose, then buy spares and fix stuff.
(I’m a M.D. in profession so this is “second nature” to me)
Take out the Power driver board, take out your digital multimeter and start testing traces and components on the circuit that drives all g.i. strings.
If you are decent and gentle with a soldering & desoldering iron, you will fix it.

Comet has an awesome inexpensive Sampler Pack of different bulbs to try. I bought that and some others to toy with. Spent a few hours putting different bulbs in different places, and placed the real order. I think I bought $20-30 of bulbs to toy with, and several hours of "entertainment" of messing with it.

That goalie takes a beating! My goalie switch stopped registering and my plastic goalie broke what a bummer. Just replaced two switches yesterday

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hi ,guys
new member here
im looking for used ok condition plastic ramps for my world cup soccer 94
back left ramp and left front ramp , if any of you have them laying around, let me know whats your asking price,

thanks

Is this the one you need?

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yes that is one of them and I need the one that goes to the bottom of that on the left side, if that makes any sense..

thanks

So you need all the ramps then? There’s only two.

yes ,how much the used ramps are priced at this time?, my wcs94 is in very,very good condition except I just don't like the way the ramps looks,no errors,playfield nice , cabinet is nice, everything works properly,i have a box with $400 dollar worth of new parts not install,set of cliffs 7 pcs , 6 new balls, plastics].leds worth over $175dollars.]

im looking to trade my wcs94 for a Jurassic park ED [1993]my grandson is not playing the wcs94 anymore , I will like to get the 1993 Jurassic park ED for him to play
do you have the used ramps? or you know someone that has them please let me know..

thanks again