(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • 5,695 posts
  • 524 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PunishersLEMC
  • Topic is favorited by 185 Pinsiders

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There are 5695 posts in this topic. You are on page 114 of 114.
#5651 17 days ago

GREAT job fellas! That was it. Cleaned it up with the iron. All good! Thanks!

#5652 16 days ago
Quoted from provato:

I also buy my LEDs from comet. Good prices - good enough LEDs.
For G.I. I only use sunlight white frosted.
If you know anything about colour theory, a surface’s real colour is determined by the human eye when it is lit by the sun’s light. Sunlight LEDs are almost the same colour temperature as the sun’s light.
If you use cool white everything seems more blue.
If you use warm white everything seems more yellow.
PS: if you want a nostalgia feel put warms in G.I. because incandescents are warm white

Thanks for the tip of those sunlight white Leds from Comet. Back is sunlight and the front is cool white.
Back is much nicer.

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#5653 16 days ago

Bam!! Perfection in backglass

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#5654 16 days ago

Hey guys so I just got a world Cup soccer and it's my very first machine. Im having two problems with it. The first is the right slingshot switch when tested is also registering another trough switch of some sort. I will upload a picture in the future. When I look under the platforms someone has soldered an additional wire from the right slingshot switch to some other random wire under the playfield

Second problem. The ball gets stuck in the goal trough right before the striker popper coil. But it only happens on a goal that activates a striker award. Maybe dirty opto? Any ideas?

#5655 16 days ago

If the ball is getting stuck in the goal check the trough for small divets in the trough.
You can either sand them down or what I’ve done is lay piece of petg over top.

I did this on my ball trough on front.

#5656 15 days ago

Finally done.
Wil replace some leds on cointoss and those 3 in the back.
Clear white with yellow silicon bulb cap on it.
Waiting for my new speaker display and this pin is 100% ready to rest.

Do I need to install an extra spotlight or do you think it is ok?
In real it seems ok but on the picture it seems there a 2 dark spots.

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#5657 15 days ago

So I fixed the goal trough probably thanks for the advice. The other problem Im having is when I do a switch test the right slingshot is registering as both the right slingshot and tv ball popper. But when the ball hits the slingshot only the slingshot coil fires and not the tv popper. In just wondering where it got crossed and how to fix it.

#5658 15 days ago

Could anyone give me a link or reference for those 4 little screws to connect the large ramp assembly to each other?
Thanks

#5659 14 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

So I fixed the goal trough probably thanks for the advice. The other problem Im having is when I do a switch test the right slingshot is registering as both the right slingshot and tv ball popper. But when the ball hits the slingshot only the slingshot coil fires and not the tv popper. In just wondering where it got crossed and how to fix it.

Check diodes and check wire colours. tv ball popper is an opto I think? So check if the slingshot firing causes opto beam disruption or an opto-board connector issue.

Quoted from Toine79:

Could anyone give me a link or reference for those 4 little screws to connect the large ramp assembly to each other?
Thanks

this has been answered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs94-screw-id-request#post-2684104

#5660 14 days ago

Finally won the World Cup! Took me over a year and a half but I did it. Such a thrilling game win those jackpots and goals are getting called out.

#5661 12 days ago

Final result

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#5662 8 days ago

Little gimmick

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#5663 8 days ago

Hey guys Im getting an error from the test report. Check switch FO3 Left Flipper E.O.S. It seems fine and its functioning as it should. Any ideas

#5664 8 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Hey guys Im getting an error from the test report. Check switch FO3 Left Flipper E.O.S. It seems fine and its functioning as it should. Any ideas

Remember this is a normally open switch. Make sure that’s the case and the flipper closes it when engaged.

#5665 7 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Little gimmick[quoted image]

Great idea on the half dollar! Just ordered one on eBay. Thanks.

#5666 5 days ago

Switch #41 isn’t working on my machine. It’s an opt switch so I figure the transmitter was bad and changed it. Needless to say it doesn’t work still. I had continuity back to the opt board. Stuck on this one..

#5667 5 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Switch #41 isn’t working on my machine. It’s an opt switch so I figure the transmitter was bad and changed it. Needless to say it doesn’t work still. I had continuity back to the opt board. Stuck on this one..

Check if the transmitter is working with your cell phone camera (front camera preferably if you have a high-tech cell - because usually front cameras don’t have infrared filters).

If the transmitter is working, change the receiver too

If you are sure both are working and you have continuity back to the opto board, the problem is either in the opto board or the WPC board or the connections to them. All of these are a bitch to troubleshoot... but check the optos first and then we’ll see

#5668 5 days ago

Hey guys so on my left orbit it looks like I may be missing a post or something. Basically the spinner shot right under the left ramp there looks to be a post missing. Can someone confirm if my machine is missing something?

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#5670 5 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Missing nothing. You’re good.

I was going to be a smartass and say the mini playfield...but I digress

Agree that everything looks good.

#5671 5 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Hey guys so on my left orbit it looks like I may be missing a post or something. Basically the spinner shot right under the left ramp there looks to be a post missing. Can someone confirm if my machine is missing something?[quoted image]

You are missing a circular plastic with a soccer player performing a bicycle kick on it--it's attached to a long machine screw and spacer.

provato provides the bill of materials in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/110#post-5403548

Edit:
Some images from the pinside gallery:

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#5672 5 days ago

really just a protection for the SW, shouldn't affect gameplay significantly though

#5673 4 days ago

Joined the club today.. still on the way home.
850 mile round trip
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#5674 4 days ago

Damn that's a nice looking machine. Congrats buddy. Why does everyones pop bumpers and lane guides look way more blue than factory? Is it bulbs or different bumper caps. Mine look dark green lol

#5675 4 days ago
Quoted from provato:

Check if the transmitter is working with your cell phone camera (front camera preferably if you have a high-tech cell - because usually front cameras don’t have infrared filters).
If the transmitter is working, change the receiver too
If you are sure both are working and you have continuity back to the opto board, the problem is either in the opto board or the WPC board or the connections to them. All of these are a bitch to troubleshoot... but check the optos first and then we’ll see

Probably a stupid connector issue. Transmitter isn't getting power. Need to check continuity between mpu and mini opt circuitboard.

Edit Fixed problem colder solder joint on opt board..

#5676 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Damn that's a nice looking machine. Congrats buddy. Why does everyones pop bumpers and lane guides look way more blue than factory? Is it bulbs or different bumper caps. Mine look dark green lol

The original factory pop bumper caps with the raised center (03-9030-25) are lighter in color and harder to find than the readily available replacements (03-8254-25). Marco lists the originals, but I've never seen them for sale. Pinball Life carries them, but for more than twice the price of the replacements.

Having tried, both, I splurged on the Pinball Life original models. Coupled with Comet Teal LEDs, they really brighten up the table and look like they belong there. I didn't feel that way with the replacement bumper caps.

#5677 4 days ago

I need some help choosing leds. I have no idea where to start. And you mean comet cyan? Non-frosted? I have the ones from pinball life.

#5678 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I need some help choosing leds. I have no idea where to start. And you mean comet cyan? Non-frosted? I have the ones from pinball life.

Yeah, Comet's site lists the bulb as "teal (cyan)." I use frosted. Comet is my go-to company for LEDs. Their purple passion was basically made for WCS purple inserts. But I have only have clear purple passion bulbs (and I couldn't tell you why that's the case).

#5679 4 days ago

Do you use frosted for all your bulbs in the game? I feel like clear makes sense for under inserts. I have no idea where to even start. Just want to start with the pop bumpers for now and replace as needed.

#5680 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Do you use frosted for all your bulbs in the game? I feel like clear makes sense for under inserts. I have no idea where to even start. Just want to start with the pop bumpers for now and replace as needed.

All my bulbs are frosted. And on further thought, the comet purple passions aren’t so much “clear” as “purple translucent.”

Do you have LEDs installed now?

Here is mine. Some are coin taker bulbs but most colors are comet.
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#5681 4 days ago

I have a mix of led based on the previous owner. But maybe bulbs are burnt out so i needed some advice on where to start. Ill probably start with the cyan pop bumpers and the burnt out ones.

#5682 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I have a mix of led based on the previous owner. But maybe bulbs are burnt out so i needed some advice on where to start. Ill probably start with the cyan pop bumpers and the burnt out ones.

You’ll save money buying in bulk. I do prefer the frosted. Color match the inserts, and do the math on whether it makes sense to buy a 25 pack or individuals. If it’s borderline, but the 25 so you can experiment. I prefer the natural “cool white” for general illumination.

#5683 4 days ago

Thanks for the advice man. I have some werid issues going on with my lamp test. When i check the roll over lamps i get some really really dim flickering in some other lamps. Like almost no colour but I can see them just flickering. Is this normal?

#5684 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Thanks for the advice man. I have some werid issues going on with my lamp test. When i check the roll over lamps i get some really really dim flickering in some other lamps. Like almost no colour but I can see them just flickering. Is this normal?

It is normal but very much undesirable. It is called ghosting. Best solution is to install an LED OCD board. 2nd best solution, is to replace all bulbs with non-ghosting LED’s. The OCD board is fairly easy to setup, but also allows some customization of each bulb. Google it and see what you think. I have this board in at least 3 of my games (lost track).

#5685 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

It is normal but very much undesirable. It is called ghosting. Best solution is to install an LED OCD board. 2nd best solution, is to replace all bulbs with non-ghosting LED’s. The OCD board is fairly easy to setup, but also allows some customization of each bulb. Google it and see what you think. I have this board in at least 3 of my games (lost track).

Thanks so much good to know! I'll check both out. I have another question. When I run through the flasher tests no flashers come on and same with lamp and flasher test. But when I play a game they function properly. Any ideas?

#5686 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Thanks so much good to know! I'll check both out. I have another question. When I run through the flasher tests no flashers come on and same with lamp and flasher test. But when I play a game they function properly. Any ideas?

Interlock switch
(I bet you don’t have solenoids either in test mode )

#5687 4 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

Thanks so much good to know! I'll check both out. I have another question. When I run through the flasher tests no flashers come on and same with lamp and flasher test. But when I play a game they function properly. Any ideas?

The coin door has to be closed for the flashers to work.

#5688 4 days ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

The coin door has to be closed for the flashers to work.

When the door is open you can pull out the interlock switch so the high volt solenoids & flashers work in test mode. It's white and has little dents in it to pull on:

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Or if you are super lucky, you found one of these in your cabinet:

Interlock switch clip (resized).jpg

This is an interlock switch clip that fits over the switch to hold it closed while the coin door is open. I've been collecting pins for 10 years and hadn't seen one until my most recent pin - @WCS that came in a container buy from Italy!

#5689 4 days ago

I just zip tie cardboard over all my interlocks.

#5690 4 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

When the door is open you can pull out the interlock switch so the high volt solenoids & flashers work in test mode. It's white and has little dents in it to pull on:
[quoted image]
Or if you are super lucky, you found one of these in your cabinet:
[quoted image]
This is an interlock switch clip that fits over the switch to hold it closed while the coin door is open. I've been collecting pins for 10 years and hadn't seen one until my most recent pin - @WCS that came in a container buy from Italy!

The first couple games (models, not games of WCS) had switches that couldn't be pulled out - which is where those yellow things came in handy.

Edit to add: If your game does NOT have the 'pull out' style, you can easily swap yours for one that does.

#5691 3 days ago

Man, my game sure has taken a turn for the worse lately. It started off that I had full L/R GI brightness, then right got progressively dimmer until R GI finally went out entirely. Left side was fine. Nothing noticeably burned or anything like that, and both headers and plugs replaced on J120 and 121 (albeit 8 years ago, by CoinOp Cauldron, with LEDs run since). If I pressed on the plug I could get full brightness momentarily. I figured I either had terminals with issues, a cold solder joint, or both.

Going off a suggestion from a friend, I pulled the key and plugged 121 into 120. Same result, full brightness left, dim/out right. I thought that narrowed it down to a plug issue.

So I bought trifurcon terminals and a molex crimper. And now I have no left / dim or out right. Full brightness on right only if I press on the plug. Ugh.

#5692 3 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Man, my game sure has taken a turn for the worse lately. It started off that I had full L/R GI brightness, then right got progressively dimmer until R GI finally went out entirely. Left side was fine. Nothing noticeably burned or anything like that, and both headers and plugs replaced on J120 and 121 (albeit 8 years ago, by CoinOp Cauldron, with LEDs run since). If I pressed on the plug I could get full brightness momentarily. I figured I either had terminals with issues, a cold solder joint, or both.
Going off a suggestion from a friend, I pulled the key and plugged 121 into 120. Same result, full brightness left, dim/out right. I thought that narrowed it down to a plug issue.
So I bought trifurcon terminals and a molex crimper. And now I have no left / dim or out right. Full brightness on right only if I press on the plug. Ugh.

First diagnose, then buy spares and fix stuff.
(I’m a M.D. in profession so this is “second nature” to me)
Take out the Power driver board, take out your digital multimeter and start testing traces and components on the circuit that drives all g.i. strings.
If you are decent and gentle with a soldering & desoldering iron, you will fix it.

#5693 2 days ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I need some help choosing leds. I have no idea where to start. And you mean comet cyan? Non-frosted? I have the ones from pinball life.

Comet has an awesome inexpensive Sampler Pack of different bulbs to try. I bought that and some others to toy with. Spent a few hours putting different bulbs in different places, and placed the real order. I think I bought $20-30 of bulbs to toy with, and several hours of "entertainment" of messing with it.

#5694 2 days ago
Quoted from provato:

First diagnose, then buy spares and fix stuff.
(I’m a M.D. in profession so this is “second nature” to me)
Take out the Power driver board, take out your digital multimeter and start testing traces and components on the circuit that drives all g.i. strings.
If you are decent and gentle with a soldering & desoldering iron, you will fix it.

First I need to make sure I get some good crimps on the wires for this molex connector. I KNOW it's not done well. No sense doing any diagnosing until that's fixed.. But I can't seem to figure out where to position the terminals in this crimper--the crimps always look like garbage. Blah.

#5695 1 day ago

That goalie takes a beating! My goalie switch stopped registering and my plastic goalie broke what a bummer. Just replaced two switches yesterday

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