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(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by snextime
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There are 6146 posts in this topic. You are on page 113 of 123.
#5601 7 months ago

So, has anyone bought the CPR mirrored backglass, thoughts?

I realize that its not fiscally wise, but I've done alot to my game, one of Mikes last brass plating jobs, etc. so I don't see me getting rid of this one until I exit the hobby, and don't view pins as an investment.

Just curious if anyone has installed one, and if its as dramatic a change as BSD, TZ,etc.

They really look amazing, imho...

#5602 7 months ago

Just joined the club yesterday! Love this game. Very happy to add as a permanent resident to my small collection. My wife really likes it to! Which is a very good thing. Only negative was the former owner didn’t like LEDs so only had a few installed. Going to replace them all as soon as my order comes in from cointaker to make the pin really pop!

Already ordered flipper fidelity speakers and next up with some OT is a color dmd. Game cabinet is amazing on this one, little to no fade and playfield is near perfect!

Has anyone installed a pinsound in one! Was wondering what the new sound file was on it. Loved pinsound in all my other former pins like T2 and Blackrose. On pinsound’s website it says it adds a French team????

1B0588A7-AB16-47CD-80CF-B8FDEF947F43 (resized).jpeg63F048A3-5558-49AD-B3FC-2CC5F02005BA (resized).jpeg9180D7D2-F11C-4200-9184-F0EDE84D737A (resized).jpeg9F1F757C-4318-4E74-B517-D4771EDE151E (resized).jpeg
#5603 7 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

So, has anyone bought the CPR mirrored backglass, thoughts?
I realize that its not fiscally wise, but I've done alot to my game, one of Mikes last brass plating jobs, etc. so I don't see me getting rid of this one until I exit the hobby, and don't view pins as an investment.
Just curious if anyone has installed one, and if its as dramatic a change as BSD, TZ,etc.
They really look amazing, imho...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/108#post-5287416

#5605 7 months ago

Hello,
For our charity project, we have used my own wcs94 for a while. Now, it's back at home and I've got an issue.
The opto from the TV show seems to activate themselves from time to time. I can hear a coil activating regularly. But the opto are also working fine when a ball enters.
I guess it's this opto as when I lock a ball with the magnet and get a second ball, I often have the multiball launching by itself, as if I've entered the TV show.

Any suggestions, as cleaning them did not fix?
Changing them?
Issue on board?

Thanks

#5606 7 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Major thanks...that looks great!!! Think I'll have to go for it...

Really? I think the new one looks washed out compared to original which has much more pop. Was thinking of doing the same until I actually looked at them side by side.

#5607 7 months ago

I had full plans of grabbing the mirrored glass also, but it seemed like the consensus was that it was a bit of a bust. No?

I'm working on bronzing out my metal pieces (slowly), also!

#5608 7 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Really? I think the new one looks washed out compared to original which has much more pop. Was thinking of doing the same until I actually looked at them side by side.

I use frosted greens on the grass anyway, the rest white...that's the only color that looks soft in the pics...seeing it lit in the first picture seems the purple and other colors really come out. w mirror accents I think it will look great...

I'll post pics when I get mine and light it up..

#5609 7 months ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I use frosted greens on the grass anyway, the rest white...that's the only color that looks soft in the pics...seeing it lit in the first picture seems the purple and other colors really come out. w mirror accents I think it will look great...
I'll post pics when I get mine and light it up..

Please do!

#5610 7 months ago

My goalie is back in town.
Painted and clearcoated my metals in black.
Wire ramp and apron wire in the same color as my rubbers.
For the moment my only pin and is a keeper because I played it a lot as a teenager back in 1994.

DSC_1702 (resized).JPG
#5611 7 months ago

Where do I get the carbon fiber cliffy protectors?

#5612 7 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Where do I get the carbon fiber cliffy protectors?

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm

#5613 7 months ago

Mine arrived today, quick clean and flame polish (last pic) and a few adjustments. Right flipper way to powerful, going up left ramp and shooting up into the back panel where floodlight sticker is. Right flipper has red coil which I thought was weaker then blue?
Need to get hole protectors and LED’s although I noticed the GI dims nicely when magnet is used which I like, so leave or get GI ocd board and probably insert ocd board too. Decisions!

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#5614 7 months ago

Beautiful.
With flame polish you can get rid of the sun fading on the ramps?

#5615 7 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hello,
For our charity project, we have used my own wcs94 for a while. Now, it's back at home and I've got an issue.
The opto from the TV show seems to activate themselves from time to time. I can hear a coil activating regularly. But the opto are also working fine when a ball enters.
I guess it's this opto as when I lock a ball with the magnet and get a second ball, I often have the multiball launching by itself, as if I've entered the TV show.
Any suggestions, as cleaning them did not fix?
Changing them?
Issue on board?
Thanks

Anyone?

#5616 7 months ago

Have you tried moving the optos and wiggling wires with the playfield up and in switch test mode?? If it activates randomly, sound like it may be making and breaking contact. Possibly just need to adjust or tighten screws and make sure they are aiming correctly. Or if while shaking the wires in switch test mode, you may find a cold solder joint?

That’s where I would start.

#5617 7 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

LED’s although I noticed the GI dims nicely when magnet is used which I like, so leave or get GI ocd board and probably insert ocd board too. Decisions!

Nice looking game! Myself and my wife are loving ours that we just got. I was thinking about doing the OCD boards as well. Never done them. I am going to put nonghosting LEDs in the inserts, and led the rest of the game but was told the ocd board would not work with nonghosting LEDs. Any dea if this is correct?

#5618 7 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Nice looking game! Myself and my wife are loving ours that we just got. I was thinking about doing the OCD boards as well. Never done them. I am going to put nonghosting LEDs in the inserts, and led the rest of the game but was told the ocd board would not work with nonghosting LEDs. Any dea if this is correct?

Herg's boards work w non-ghosting led's, but better with just standard ones.....a must have for the inserts, imho.....haven't used his GI version, but have the other one in all my games that are applicable....really smooths things out, and you can adjust settings to your personal liking...

#5619 7 months ago

You will absolutely want the regular LED's (not non-ghosting) if you want to get the best fading effects from the OCD board. LED's will never fade in and out like good old incandescents... but with the OCD board you can definitely get much better than the insta-on and insta-off that can be so annoying with some LED installs.

#5620 7 months ago

I have 4 Afterglow boards which are like led ocd and have non ghosting leds, dims nicely still so annoying if led ocd doesn’t. Only because if you want to sell and take the board out and you have not put non ghosting leds in. Unfortunately not sure if another batch of Afterglow boards are being made here in Europe, they were equivalent to about $50!

#5621 7 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Have you tried moving the optos and wiggling wires with the playfield up and in switch test mode?? If it activates randomly, sound like it may be making and breaking contact. Possibly just need to adjust or tighten screws and make sure they are aiming correctly. Or if while shaking the wires in switch test mode, you may find a cold solder joint?
That’s where I would start.

I've removed, cleaned and aligned them.
Will try twitching wiring a bit in test mode..

#5622 7 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I have 4 Afterglow boards which are like led ocd and have non ghosting leds, dims nicely still so annoying if led ocd doesn’t. Only because if you want to sell and take the board out and you have not put non ghosting leds in. Unfortunately not sure if another batch of Afterglow boards are being made here in Europe, they were equivalent to about $50!

The LED OCD board will dim bulbs as nicely as your afterglow board. The problems is not in the board. The non-ghosting LED's are designed to require a higher threshold voltage before they will turn on. This is inherent in the bulb and what prevents them from ghosting when signals from other lights is running through the circuit. Because they require a higher threshold voltage to turn on, the non-ghosting LED's will NEVER be able to dim in and out as well as the regular LED's.

#5623 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

The LED OCD board will dim bulbs as nicely as your afterglow board. The problems is not in the board. The non-ghosting LED's are designed to require a higher threshold voltage before they will turn on. This is inherent in the bulb and what prevents them from ghosting when signals from other lights is running through the circuit. Because they require a higher threshold voltage to turn on, the non-ghosting LED's will NEVER be able to dim in and out as well as the regular LED's.

Ok, I will do a video on my TZ or STTNG with non ghosting and Afterglow to see what you think. Looks ok to me but I’m no expert.
Been to a funeral today so will do it once I’m back to ground zero.

#5624 7 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ok, I will do a video on my TZ or STTNG with non ghosting and Afterglow to see what you think. Looks ok to me but I’m no expert.
Been to a funeral today so will do it once I’m back to ground zero.

The proof is in the pudding... if you have both, you can set the record straight and I certainly believe your stance. I'm mostly just stating what I've seen anecdotally from what I've seen on one or two games in the past.. but no side by side comparison. I'm happy to eat my words.

I should also add that if the non-ghosting bulbs perform just as well as the normal, that makes them a great option if you're not sure you're going to add LED OCD. But if you are adding LED OCD board, then the cost savings for the normal bulbs seems to trump unless you think the non-ghosting give even better performance with the board.

#5626 7 months ago

My world cup soccer now keeps losing the memory/settings. Sucks, only had this game 2 weeks. The old battery holder/board that is mounted over the main motherboard had minor corrosion that I cleaned off with scotchbrite/sand paper/and deoxit. It now works for a day or so, then losses voltage and goes back to factory settings. The actual board the battery holder is soldered on may be the issue, one of the trace lines looks sketchy, not sure. I do know it worked great when I bought the game, now it keeps losing settings, had no voltage on that board, then cleaned it, had my 4.3 volts or so and it worked, now its dead again.

Can you buy just this board/battery holder that plugs into the motherboard? Otherwise am I down to buying a whole new motherboard with an NVRAM chip installed so I won't have this issue again? I don't mind spending the money for a whole new motherboard since this is my wife's favorite pin in our small collection, but it would be nice to just buy a small $20-50 battery board if it is available. Not seeing any out there on Marco or other websites.

#5627 7 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Can you buy just this board/battery holder that plugs into the motherboard?

I made custom ones a while back, may still have one or two sitting aorund. Send me a PM, and I'll check tonight if I can trace one down.

#5628 7 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I made custom ones a while back, may still have one or two sitting aorund. Send me a PM, and I'll check tonight if I can trace one down.

Thank you, but I guess I'm going to get a new CPU. Started having display issues after I put in new speakers yesterday. Thought it was a ribbon cable, but now with this battery issue, if I push on the upper long chipset, the display starts working correctly. Guess with the better speakers turned up louder, it makes the chip not the best contact and I loose the display. Oddly though the display works normal in checking settings. Push slightly on that chip, and then it comes back on.

Oh well, at least this game looks great in the collection, just can't play it right now.

#5629 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

The proof is in the pudding... if you have both, you can set the record straight and I certainly believe your stance. I'm mostly just stating what I've seen anecdotally from what I've seen on one or two games in the past.. but no side by side comparison. I'm happy to eat my words.
I should also add that if the non-ghosting bulbs perform just as well as the normal, that makes them a great option if you're not sure you're going to add LED OCD. But if you are adding LED OCD board, then the cost savings for the normal bulbs seems to trump unless you think the non-ghosting give even better performance with the board.

Here is a clip with Afterglow board (like ocd) and non ghosting leds, I will get some regular leds and see if it improves it and do a clip to compare. I need to know.

After playing my WCS for a while today there is no way I’m putting leds in without some sort of ocd & GI board as I love the way it all dims and fades, I would miss that. Still looks great with incandescent lamps if a little warm!

#5630 7 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Thank you, but I guess I'm going to get a new CPU. Started having display issues after I put in new speakers yesterday. Thought it was a ribbon cable, but now with this battery issue, if I push on the upper long chipset, the display starts working correctly. Guess with the better speakers turned up louder, it makes the chip not the best contact and I loose the display. Oddly though the display works normal in checking settings. Push slightly on that chip, and then it comes back on.
Oh well, at least this game looks great in the collection, just can't play it right now.

No worries, good luck!

#5631 7 months ago

Just tested my NG Leds from Comet.
Shop out almost done.

#5632 7 months ago

Pics as promised..new glass looks amazing!! Rich, rich colors, and enough mirror to make it classy

1st pic-original
2nd - New
5th - lighting I use, same in both shots ( yes, I've got to put a few whites back where the ball and lower emblem are, flashers are clear and off in pic)..highly recommend!!
IMG_20200310_184828697 (resized).jpgIMG_20200310_190037887 (resized).jpgIMG_20200310_190925017 (resized).jpgIMG_20200310_190908590 (resized).jpgIMG_20200310_185002844 (resized).jpg

#5633 7 months ago

Very nice indeed. Are those chrome siderails and lockbar? Very shiny.

#5634 7 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Very nice indeed. Are those chrome siderails and lockbar? Very shiny.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Pics as promised..new glass looks amazing!! Rich, rich colors, and enough mirror to make it classy
1st pic-original
2nd - New
5th - lighting I use, same in both shots ( yes, I've got to put a few whites back where the ball and lower emblem are, flashers are clear and off in pic)..highly recommend!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Which Leds did you use in those playfield spotlights? Which white did you use for GI?

#5635 7 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Very nice indeed. Are those chrome siderails and lockbar? Very shiny.

All of the armor ( including habitrail, coinflip shooter assembly, etc.) were brass plated by Mike Chestnut (rip). One of his jast jobs, and looks amazing.

#5636 7 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Which Leds did you use in those playfield spotlights? Which white did you use for GI?

This is one of 2 games that I actually used purple stacker spots from Comet instead of white (XmenMagneto the other). For me, they really look great. Natural (cool) clear white from Comet on GI ( have some more frosted green under the grass)

#5637 7 months ago

Any suggested LED OCD software adjustments for WCS, or stick with default?

#5638 7 months ago

Decided to have incandescent lamps as this needs led ocd and GI, that will add quite a bit to the cost and probably will not have as good fading effects that this game has. Would be good to see what ocd looks like on this though.

#5639 7 months ago

Almost done with the reassembly.
Need some advice for the coin toss leds.

Have now 3 yellow comet Leds and I do not like the yellow Leds. More orange than yellow.
Used for my ramp entry assembly clear white Leds with those yellow condom on it.

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#5640 7 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Almost done with the reassembly.
Need some advice for the coin toss leds.
Have now 3 yellow comet Leds and I do not like the yellow Leds. More orange than yellow.
Used for my ramp entry assembly clear white Leds with those yellow condom on it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’ve got comet teal on mine. They go well with the pop bumpers too

#5641 7 months ago

so I realized that I was getting multiple lamps lighting up during single lamp test and found the culprit. When I removed the plug from the A-18067 board, everything went back to normal. This board controls ultra jets and ultra spinners (46 and 47 and two others). See pics attached.

The board must be bad right? I searched online - didn't see a local place with replacement.

Anyone have experience with this?

20200313_212508 (resized).jpg20200313_212514 (resized).jpg
#5642 7 months ago

Looks like you have a bridge of a connection (circled in blue). The only way the two red areas should have a connection is with a bulb in between them. This board isn't 'bad', but does need some TLC. First step - Just make sure there isn't continuity between the two red points using your DMM. EDIT: After looking closer I may be seeing something else, but take the bulb out and examine the board better and/or send us some better pics.
Capture (resized).JPG

#5643 7 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Any suggested LED OCD software adjustments for WCS, or stick with default?

I went w Herg's game settings in mine...you can play endlessly, however...super fun...just a beautiful, fun game!! Billions of points!!!!

#5644 7 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Looks like you have a bridge of a connection (circled in blue). The only way the two red areas should have a connection is with a bulb in between them. This board isn't 'bad', but does need some TLC. First step - Just make sure there isn't continuity between the two red points using your DMM. EDIT: After looking closer I may be seeing something else, but take the bulb out and examine the board better and/or send us some better pics.
[quoted image]

I checked and it's just the pic. There is sep b/w the two Reds.

Here are some super close up pics. Thanks in advance!

20200313_220801 (resized).jpg20200313_220810 (resized).jpg20200313_220815 (resized).jpg20200313_220824 (resized).jpg20200313_220828 (resized).jpg20200313_220832 (resized).jpg20200313_220837 (resized).jpg
#5645 7 months ago

I'd test each of those diodes. I had a Revenge From Mars that had some lamp problems and I traced it to a bad diode on a light board.

#5646 7 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

I checked and it's just the pic. There is sep b/w the two Reds.
Here are some super close up pics. Thanks in advance![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, the board 'looks' fine. The next step is to verify the diodes on the board. Pretty simple continuity test with your DMM. Red lead on the banded side and black lead on the other - if you have continuity its bad. Reverse the leads and you should have continuity. If you don't have continuity either direction then it is also bad.

#5647 7 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I realized that I was getting multiple lamps lighting up during single lamp test and found the culprit. When I removed the plug from the A-18067 board, everything went back to normal.

Pins 4 & 5 on the connector appear to have a solder bridge between them. I don't think this is correct. Also check the continuity between each pin (not just the solder around it) and the next point of the circuit.

#5648 7 months ago

I would even say it does not only appear...it is almost certain that you have a short there!

#5649 7 months ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

Pins 4 & 5 on the connector appear to have a solder bridge between them. I don't think this is correct. Also check the continuity between each pin (not just the solder around it) and the next point of the circuit.

Quoted from mastercello:

I would even say it does not only appear...it is almost certain that you have a short there!

Good eye guys! Man, I'm pissed that I didn't see that.

Capture (resized).PNG
#5650 7 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Good eye guys! Man, I'm pissed that I didn't see that.[quoted image]

Bingo!! Clean that up, verify no shorts, check diodes, done......

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