Around the right side of the soccer ball I believe.

I bought this piece after talking to Marco about its dimensions.
Initially I thought it sits around the left jet bumper, but after this piece arrived by mail I saw it’s bigger than they told me (about the size of the soccer ball).

I’ve searched through all the posts and the photos in this thread and other forums/photo collections too. Nobody has this plastic installed or knows where (or how) it goes.

If anyone has it installed, I’m interested to know about it too

I just checked my machine and can not locate it. I even checked my new plastic set and its not in there either.

Great, I buy a WCS (a top 3 game for me) and now I have 112 pages of Owner's Forum to read. It's on!

I ordered a set of insert decals from pinball center before Christmas and they never arrived, he won't replace them and they seem to have gotten lost at some international postal center in Jersey City. I don't know why that guy won't ship direct, but what a pain in the ass. My project is stalled and I'm hoping someone on this thread can help, I really only needed 1 decal, I circled it in red in the picture. If anyone has 1 or 2 they didn't use please let me know, more than happy to pay for them, TIA

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I'm getting ready to do my first full shop and I've just been making myself really familiar with the play field. I noticed the vuk light is mounted oddly but it looks like it wasn't messed with or completely stock if that makes sense. Can anyone else show me theirs or tell me what is wrong with mine LOL?

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Your light is correct. Agreed--it looks like it should stick through the hole, but it doesn't. Typically this bulb would have a red rubber sleeve over it.

When does this light come on during the game?

When Striker’s hideout is activated. Under default rules (medium difficulty I think), it’s lit when you start the game. After that you need to spell out “striker” by hitting the striker targets

HUGE shout out and thanks to Steve AKA Ice Master for sending me the insert decal I so desperately needed to finish my WCS playfield. Merry Christmas Steve!!

Thanks for the info! I guess my light socket has an issue then.

Try pushing the wires on the bulb itself more to the sides first.

I decided to dress the goalie in the proper outfit goalies wore at the 95 cup. I am making a German, USA, Italian and French goalie decal with national badges.
Not quite finished but here is a pre-view.
Left is original, right with proper jerseys.

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As someone who is color blind AND has no interest or experience with soccer, let me unqualifyingly say: The guy on the right is a horrible version of The Incredible Hulk. Which is probably why I like it. Now all I can think of is making a Hulk sticker for my goalie...

I had the BEST stuck ball ever this week! The ball bounced up and rested on the plastic directly below the soccer ball. The ball was sitting between and touching both the spinning soccer ball and screw head. It just sat there spinning with the soccer ball! I watched it, stunned, trying to figure out what was happening for about ten seconds before reaching for my phone to snap a pic...which of course led to the ball falling down first. That'll never happen again...

That's why WCS94 was always intended for the European market. Most of you US boys just don't get it why anybody would kick a ball with their feet if they have two perfectly good hands and arms lol.
Enclosed a photo of an original goalie jersey.

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Why adding a French goalie to this game when France did not pass the qualification for 94's world cup ?

Hahaha good point! I thought France is a pretty big pinball market and they might want their own goalie. I have to scrap that one

well... Greece was indeed in World Cup 1994 (although we did terrible...)
Seeing our national team's appearance, I can only laugh at it
But... It's the 90's!!! I have seen worse from this time period.
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Those haircuts alone should’ve won it.
You did a lot better ten years later though.

It has always bothered me that a WCS94 topper was produced, but not the hardware to properly install it. I have never seen factory hardware installed with the topper. I believe the hardware for the topper was never mass produced. I'm almost ready to install my topper with brackets I've made. The brackets are from solid 3\16" brass plate. Solid brass wood screws and brass plated rivets. I really wanted to stick with the original gold / brass theme. I haven't polished the brass yet, only sanded with 500 and 1000 grit - wet. I'm still trying to perfect the rolling of rivets.

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the original bally/midway/williamsl grey parts book has a reference for WCS94 topper in the appendix (first few pages)
Unfortunately these pages, although mentioned in the appendix, are missing on the planetary pinball web viewer of the grey parts catalog.

I'm searching for a complete original grey parts book - if anyone has one I'll buy it.

As for pinball rivet-rolling I think I have found the perfect removal and installing method.
Installing them is best as a two-part process:
1.hold the rivet and riveted parts in place on an anvil wrapped in thick cloth. Then hit it once or twice with a medium-big center punch. This will widen the tubular open end of the rivet and hold the rivet in place. Repeat process for all rivets of the assembly that is being riveted.
2.hit the rivet(s) with either a flat punch (roll-pin punch) or 3-4mm rivet setting punch if you can find one. I had very good luck with this punch set from aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000082838866.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.58904c4dxwvSmu

Ready to strip down the top to clean and replace rubbers. Getting nervous but excited to dive in!

Whow, that playfield is crisp clear.
Did you use stadium lights?

Which kind of comet lights did you use?
I have 5 smd towers and your playfield looks brighter than mine.

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I get super jealous seeing other peoples' non-problematic GI. I really need to pull the board on mine so I can fix what I believe to be a cold solder joint on the right side GI. Getting real tired of having to push hard on that connector until it makes solid connection and then hoping it stays that way while I reassemble.... Woof. Got it for now (yes, I know the green trough lighting is atrocious, I need to get that swapped out)

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It's always something... Just a matter of time before we're back to this
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I used 2smd frosted comet lights.
Still a large dark area around the skill, spirit, speed, stamina and strenght ball.
Extra spotlight on right slingshot or not?
What color do you guys use in the goal?

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I also buy my LEDs from comet. Good prices - good enough LEDs.
For G.I. I only use sunlight white frosted.
If you know anything about colour theory, a surface’s real colour is determined by the human eye when it is lit by the sun’s light. Sunlight LEDs are almost the same colour temperature as the sun’s light.
If you use cool white everything seems more blue.
If you use warm white everything seems more yellow.

PS: if you want a nostalgia feel put warms in G.I. because incandescents are warm white

I guess your goalie is gone on vacation ?

Assist scope does not work well.
Think I've found the cause.

Can I order a new target switch for my goalie?
Screws are broken in target assembly.

Which color do you guys use behind the goal?

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Look at my post #4856:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/98#post-4831252

I explain everything about this target behind the goalie there, to make your own original one.

Does anybody know where this switch may be? Sorry for the sideways picture

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You have a whole ROW stuck closed, not an individual switch. (I can't make out the Row # due to the reflection in the image, sadly.) It essentially means that you have a row wire that is shorted to ground, enabling all switches.

Thank you for pointing me in a direction. I believe it says row 1. I think that’s the one with the goalie. It did say something about switch 48.

Thanks but I need the 2 little screws and the little metal plate at the back of the switch were the screws sandwich the whole assembly.

Here are the parts you want:

857 ..3 4005-01003-12 ms 5-40x3/4 p-phs 2
858 ..3 01-12823 plate-nut 5-40 1

It’s all there in ipdb...
I wish we found BOM lists for all pinball games, but for wcs94 it’s in ipdb and with a little search you can find any part you are missing.

Thanks but it seems that they are no longer available.

Look for the screw and not the part number.
You want a 5-40 thread size by .75" (3/4in) long phillips head machine screw. (Yes, these are US specs, not SI, sorry. ) And a matching hex nut.

That is totally untrue... You just have to search a little better on more pinball realted hardware stores

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12823

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/nut-plate-5-40/

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=4005-01003-12

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/machine-screw-5-40-x-3-4-pan-screw-with-locking-washer-4005-01003-12/

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/5-40-x-34-phillips-screw/

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/who-dunnit/4005-01003-12.html

I discovered something today about the “assist” eject assembly that might help a lot of people.
Like many people mentioned before, their assist eject kicker was weak and only half of the times it was able to send the ball inside the goal.
Some people blamed the purple saucer not having both legs, some blamed the Cliffies and some people blamed the assembly not being assembled correctly.
I had the same problem and I optimized this assembly many times even with new parts trying to make it kick stronger.
Today I saw that my wcs94 had 3 (three) 10-320 RED springs in all three eject assemblies. I looked at the grey parts book and the blow-up diagram shows another spring for the assist eject assembly: 10-362 which is gray (plain-metal).
Luckily I had a spare 10-362 spring in my pinball parts box, and when I installed this spring... oh my!!! The assist eject kicker was far stronger now and the ball ends up inside the goal every time!!!
I hope someone with the same problem finds this post and fixes his assist assembly too, because many people after shopping their game accidentally swap the gray with the red spring!

Wonder if I have something similar going on with my left kicker (free kick). Seems fairly consistent that the first kick after turning the game on is like a ROCKET, usually straight down the drain. I have to hold both flippers up and hope it deflects it. Subsequent kicks are much gentler.

I did make some adjustments to the arm on the goal assist when it wasn't working correctly and it's been good since.

Thanks for the info. Will take a look on mine but I do not think that this will solve my problem.
Mine was working well before installing my scope protector ring. After I pulled those rings it was very weak and did not reach the goal anymore.
Ordered a new assembly because mine was bezaten up

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Hey Guys

Can anyone help me find this part. Marco has been out of stock for awhile. Have any of you fabricated this part or maybe another bally/Williams game might use the same ramp guard. thanks in advance for any help.

#01-13104
Bally WORLD CUP SOCCER right ramp guard Ball Guide.

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Does anyone have a link to where I can purchase the screw and washer assembly for holding down the soccer ball? Someone sell me one! I understand that this screw is not necessarily needed, but I still want the factory part.

I am having a baffling issue. All coils 1 - 8 (High power) do not fire either in play or test. I have eliminated the board because I tested another board from another game (Gilligan's) that works fine. I checked continuity from the connector (J130) to the coils and get continuity, but I check any coil will read on all wires (Violet) and the same on the power in at J107. I do get 72 volts going in at J107 on all wires. Is there a fuse other than what is on the board (F105) I am missing as it's not mentioned in the manual.

Note: All the other coils work fine.

Thanks for any help or suggestion

Is your coin door closed? Check your Interlock switch.

Google these parts:

4008-01015-08B

And

4700-00129-00B

Oddly the thing is this. I did the ground to tip 102 tab on all the coils 1-8 and all fire correctly. Here is the weird part after doing the ground test the coils work again on their own in test or game play. So right now it is running. Next project now its working on the G.I. connectors on the board and gut it and clean it and LED upgrade.