Interesting—It’s using the sheet metal screw, but you’re saying I shouldn’t have a nut at all?

Yes, sheet metal screws are like wood screws. They pierce and screw in as they go.

in fact they are very common in plastics that are screwed on pinball ramps in many games (as long as these plastics don't normally have contact with the ball, like 31-1925-32)

Hi guys!
Can you give me some advice?
I'm going to order a couple of stuff for my WCS. I'm still wondering whether NOVUS (1+2+3) are worth buing. I'm not going to use them on my playfield (I read Vid's Guide). I know Novus is good for plastic parts, but for them I can use cheaper stuff.
Do you think I can remove some scratches from the cabinet glass and metal parts using Novus?
Is it worth ordering if I'm not going to use it on the playfield?

Cabinet glass -> I don't know if you can remove scratches from tempered glass, I am sure though that novus will never remove scratches from glass or metal. Ask your local glass shop how to deal with scratches or buy a new one.

Metal parts -> buffing wheels & buffing compounds are the best option if you have the time to invest on every metal part. Tumbler and metal polishing pastes (like "brasso") is ok-ish if you don't want to spend hours on the buffing wheel / buffing dremmel.

About novus: I still haven't found a use for it on pinball machines. I flame-polish or buff plastic parts mostly

I like those, where did they come from?

I had them made about 7 years back. I may run them again.

Does anybody have nice apron cards for the WCS94? So far I found those. They are nice, but maybe there even better ones out there. Pinballcards.com doesn´t have WCS94, unfortunately.

Apron Card 1 (resized).jpgApron Card 2 (resized).jpg

These are what I have. Love em!

Try
Pinball Rebel

Made up a few for a friend's machine; He mentioned your post.

Figure I might as well share. Also did some coin door freeplay inserts as well. Enjoy

Google Drive link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GVdJaUFsskDjc88cqG34X6nb9BDaWQhx

WCS_Cards-mad_carl1.pngWCS_Cards-mad_carl.pngWCS_CoinInserts.pdf

Thanks they look great

This is my fully restored World Cup Soccer

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That looks great, nice work. Isn't there supposed to be a red light under the doggie head?

missing red light?

Thoughts on led or lcd for color on this?

I think it's over if the best color packages they did....

You appear to be missing a clear piece of flat plastic that gets screwed on top of the bottom right ultra jet. This will keep balls from getting stuck in the corner near that pop bumper.

I know this because for over a year I had that piece of plastic screwed into the lower left ultra jet, and balls would get stuck all the time. I’d gripe about poor design that allows for this until about two weeks ago I saw a picture that shows its correct location. Now I have a happy family.

My goalie just broke, anyone know where I can find a replacement one at? Marco is out of stock in them

Had the same problem two weeks ago and ordered this one: ebay.com link: Pinball World Cup Soccer WCS Goalie MOD
Will be here shortly, but i guess with this mod the problem will be solved forever!

Interesting to use metal... Never thought about that. I made my own out of plastic.

But the most important question would be why they did include a goal keeper from France.. They were not qualified for the World Cup in 1994.

Yeah that's a great fix to use metal. I've got an extra sticker of the goalie, I could probably take some sheet metal and make one..

I could be wrong but it looks like the metal goalie is more narrow than the original thus exposing more of the net and making goals easier.

As if goal tenders don't have enough to worry about.

Alright took some sheet metal this evening and made my own goalie. Will see how it holds up over time. I alreqdy had a replacement sticker just stuck it on the metal.

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Why would it not hold better than a plastic? I estimate it will be for home use an eternal solution...also the different stickers gives you options (also France)

Yes, the red light is there, but it's mounted behind.

Did you put a red LED bulb in that socket? I think the reason it was questioned is because the "normal" WCS has a bulb with a red condom on it that sticks through that hole. Without the bulb sticking through, it looks like it's missing.

That’s totally wrong.
It doesn’t stick through the striker metal plate.
The bulb with the red condom sits behind the metal plate, and can be seen through the plate’s hole.
(Trust me, I’m a purist )

Neat solution and very good looking in my opinion!
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Looks very nice indeed.
It does not bow on impact with the ball?

Yeah I’d be worried the metal gets all bent up and shredded over time.

Time will tell.
Does look good though.

Maybe if you fix it on a sheet of wood with a kind of elastic glue.

Not a bit - it is a 2mm sheet metal, no way you could bend this with a pinball i guess.

Yeah I thought about trimming the outline of his head like that, but thought if the ball hit his head at a high speed it would destroy his head.

I like it too!

2mm thick metal with a complex custom shape ? mmmm I'm not sure I have the tool to build one myself...

Anyone interested before they end up in the bin?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/used-set-of-wcs94-ramps

I would gladly take these off your hands!

I stand corrected in my explanation...ultimately, you can see the bulb in the hole and in the case of the game in question, you couldn't see anything, which is why I think it was questioned. I just went and looked at my game and you're right, it's mounted behind and can be seen through the hole.

What are the opinions of my goal?

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Looks like a goal to me! Haha

Potentially stupid question, but are the center skill stickers that cover the inserts replaceable? I have a few that aren't looking so hot.

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I wouldn’t sweat those... they look pretty solid.

For now, they're okay. I chipped a piece off Strength yesterday because I'm an idiot and I forgot that I had a Sega Genesis WSC94 game, in box, on top of my machine when I scooted it over to address a bulb in one of the pops. It came flying down and I'm pretty sure hit that spot with the corner of the case. I guess that's better than if the glass had been on and it shattered...I felt like a pretty big idiot regardless.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/insert-decals-overlays/9379/insert-decal-set-for-world-cup-soccer?c=2109

You have to jump through a few hoops to get it to the US but I lost a few decals when I pulled some really bad mylar off and this saved my game.

Thank you so much! I'll likely buy a set and just leave mine be until/if things get worse. I like having supplies handy in case I need them.

Much more importantly, I need to address my right GI being dim.. but that's a completely different headache

Why decals or water slides? I never really understood that... you’ll most probably create ghosting later.

1.buy a silkscreen set from amazon
2.buy some black ink for silkscreening.
3.make a clean vector image of your black damaged area in photoshop
4.print this image and then scan it with the piece of silkscreen in order to transfer it on the piece (follow the silkscreen manufacturer’s instructions)
5.silkscreen to your playfield
6.clearcoat your playfield to lock and unify your work.

Stenciling is a good alternative if you’re good with a blade and the airbrush.

Unfortunately have another issue that's popped up that I can't figure out. The ball lock magnet doesn't seem to want to activate consistently. I've tried swapping out the fuse in F904 on the fliptronic board as discussed earlier in the thread, and I've replaced the right ramp exit switch that activates the magnet, but the problem persists. I don't believe the issue is with the magnet coil itself, but rather with the switch, because if it's not working, then a right ramp shot won't give me a ticket--I'll get the "build up" audio but no payoff.

The game tends to play OK on initial startup, but after it's been on a bit, the problem kicks in. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

This happened to me when the ball whipped around the ramp really quick. I put a bend in the metal on the switch so the ball would make more contact and haven't had this problem since. It does slow down balls that aren't moving that quick, but that shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks, I’ll give it a go. But the issue doesn’t seem to depend on whether the ball is going too fast or not.

Switch edges or single switch test under “tests” on diagnostics. Test the switch many times by rolling a ball and see if you get a closed switch every time.
You can do the same with “solenoid test” and a ball for the magnet in question.

Thanks! This got me on the right track. The switch didn't work, and neither did the light kickback switch (same row of the switch matrix). I changed the diode on the light kickback switch (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove a lot of other hardware to remove the switch), and that seemed to do the trick. Both the light kickback switch and right ramp exit switch are working (and the lock magnet activates).

Let's hope I'm not posting this too soon!

EDIT: perhaps I did post too soon—issues resurfaced after letting the machine sit while on. Went back into switch edge test mode and the kickback and ramp switches weren’t working—at first. But after a few pushes on the ramp switch it worked. Then everything worked and that’s where we are again, with everything working. Holding out hope.

Where does this plastic go?

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