Strange that yours is mirrored. I got a replacement from marco about 3 years back, and mine is not mirrored, and my colors are more like your original. Perhaps the originals are all gone, and they are selling reproductions now? I also ordered a new plastic at the same time.

As with most things on the machine that get hit a lot, I put small, white nylon washers between the screws and the plastics, and I have not had anything break since.

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Random, but I don't suppose anyone has (or knows where one can be had) an extra wireform set laying around? Any condition is fine, and preferably NOT in good condition..I need to send one off as a cow for bronzing and the one on my game was recently flame polished so I'd rather not have it stripped and bronzed!

http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/williams-world-cup-soccer-wireforms-brass

-Jordan

Oh, and another random... Anyone ever tried anything crazy on the pops, like Red/White/Blue (thinking more along the lines of clear caps with colored bulbs/discs/rings)? Or does everyone just kind of stick with the green?

This isn't anything I'd do any time soon since my skirts are green and the color scheme would make that look especially bad IMO, but if/when I rebuild them, the scheme could be an option.. I dunno.

Ummm, no.

Shrug. I like considering 'different' options. My space shuttle has clear caps / white bulbs and I bet red/white/blue would be interesting. Granted that one is solidly 'americana' where maybe WCS isn't quite as much.. Except for the fact that you play as USA and striker is plastered all over the thing...

I'm going with clear caps and red/yellow/green on my high speed.

Hello guys! I was looking for my WCS94 for a long time and now I can join you! I hope If I had any problems with it you will help me solve them

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First thing I would do is change the lighting, looks like a smurf threw up in the back corner

My WCS is driving me absolutely bonkers. The right GI is slightly dimmer. Pressing on the GI connector in the back box does seem to get it to waver slightly, but not much. I had previously been able to wiggle it and get full brightness back (although it seemed that every time I put the display back in, it would already be back to being dim again).

The connector was repinned at one point (not by me) but I do see some amount of discoloration.

I've been dealing with this and will just continue doing so for the foreseeable future if it comes down to board repair (I just shipped off two games and I'm down to 3/5 of my lineup, one of which is RRRRROUGH to play)..but man it would be nice to get this working right again.. thoughts?

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Replace the entire connector.
Replace the header on the board.

Then, you are sure it was fixed the right way, and you can go from there.

Yeah, I figured that was about it.. my pinball life is sad at the moment

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I've never seen any smurf in my house, anyway I'll change the lighting

I'm looking into changing the LM323K regulator due to heat on my WCS94 driver board. Has anyone installed the PSU5 replacement in a WPC-89 board? How did work?

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.XfLSrvyIZzm

Thank you

embarrassing question from a guy that's owned this game for a while now. I've looked and looked, and still can't find it...

How does one change the default home team? My game is set to the Netherlands, no offense to the Dutch, and I want it to be the good ol' USA...

Default home team? Never seen this.

Don't believe you can change that. After you beat Germany, USA becomes the champs but afaik that's the only change made to the lineup.

I think you may be thinking of Adjustment A.2 14: Final Match Challenger.

Yes, after beating Germany in either regular final draw multiball or the world cup wizard mode, it states that the Netherlands are the world champions. Can't be having that!

Thank you, will check it out when I get home!

Didn’t realize that. Now I wonder what mine says. Haha

Russia.

I know it's not likely, but have you looked in your menu to ensure your lighting is at max? GI is dimmable in the menu.

This ONLY adjusts how much the GI dims in attract mode after 'x' number of minutes. It does not affect an active game.

Yes, you are correct. I had forgotten. Since mine is all led, and the LEDs are not dimmable, I can't use the feature, and forgot it was attract mode only, which I also don't use.

Wish it were that simple a fix. I'm in no position right now to pull any boards and do anything with it.

It was definitely full brightness when I bought it. Meh.

I would then unplug the GI - it's dimming because of resistance, which causes heat. Your plugs are overheating and if not fixed quickly, can cause more damage - melted plugs, or even burning. Just look up 'burnt GI' on pinside here, and you'll see lots of posts, and likely some horror pics.

Right now it's getting maybe 10 minutes of play at a time, and that's on days I even flip the breaker on. I do need to fix it sooner rather than later.. Probably when my space shuttle and high speed boards are back. Just not really wanting to drop any more machines from my row until something is back up. Bleh.

I'll probably go unplug it tonight if I make it downstairs after work, just to safeguard it some.

Ah, that's fair. Just didn't want you leaving the game on for a party or something, and making things worse!

Fair point for sure. My lineup is basically a trainwreck at the moment. I should do something about it.. doh

Joining the club, picked it up right before Christmas!

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Not possible, that I know of. The 1994 World Cup was in the US... For better worse, the home team is the US. The cities were all in the US.

What way is the ball supposed to spin, mine spins clockwise but I have played some that spin counter clockwise, what way is correct?

Clockwise is correct, except during the Final Match, where it will spin counter clockwise.

I never noticed that on mine, so focused on scoring goals when I do get to the final match. Totally spins backwards.

What are your thoughts when it comes to the above, versus a mylar slot?

I'm using the cliffy slot covers and my only gripe is that the left one occasionally slides down and the ball hangs up. It could be that I didn't get it fully seated when it was happening, it hasn't happened recently that I'm aware of. Overall I'm really glad I bought them.

I've got a goalie target issue that I can't seem to figure out--
They system gave me an error on startup to check switch 48 (goalie target), and I got a credit dot. The game now doesn't register hits on the goalie. I cleaned the switch contacts, and wrapped one soldered wire on the switch a bit tighter. Cables under the playfield look to be in good order.
After I cleaned/adjusted, the credit dot went away, but the game still doesn't register hits on the goalie.
Any thoughts are appreciated--thanks!

1. Check for continuity in the switch matrix (all solder points of the ROW’s wire colour and all solder points of the COLUMN’s wire colour). Also important to check the switch’s diode - it may be backwards installed or failed.

2. If your continuity is ok in all row and column wires that this switch is in, test the WPC CPU. Ground (connect) the pin of the switch’s row to the pin of the switch’s column and see if this registers the particular switch.

Same on mine, replaced the diode on the switch behind the goalie and it worked again.

Diode was the culprit—thanks!

Hey guys, i have a problem with the goal popper VUK.. In the last couple of weeks it would eventually stop working and then start working again. Now it seems that it finally stopped working.. Do you have any advice for me? Are there any known problems? The optos work fine, it just doesnt kick.
In solenoid testmode it does not work

thanks in advance

Most likely a broken wire in the coil at the lug. Not a wire that’s coming from the harness (maybe), but one of the coil winding wires. Take off the coil and inspect.

1)Bring out your DMM and see if you have 50 volts on your voltage cable connection (one lead on the lug, the other on ground). The game must be on, and the interlock switch pressed.

2)check both cables -power and drive- for continuity (with the game off) from the power driver board to the coil’s solder lugs.
Continuity could be intermittent. Check to see if you get a spark when the coil works once in a while. This indicates a cold joint and needs re-soldering the wires to the lugs.

3)if your continuity and voltage are present, unsolder the coil and check its ohmage (there are charts of correct ohms for each solenoid part number)

4)if your continuity and voltage are present and the solenoid is ok, unsolder and check the corresponding (to the particular solenoid) transistor.

Just joined the club! Woohoo!

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Very nice with those black siderails.

Thanks. Previous owners created something quite cool indeed!

Specs:

The pin was given a complete restoration by a fellow pinsider.
-Pinstadium Speakers
-Cliffys installed
-LED ColorDMD
-NOS playfield (CC by Canfield Pinball)
-Black powder armor
-Brass trails and skillshot (Chris Royalty)
-new ramps
-new plastics
-Silkscreened, licenced cabinet art
-Color LED DMD
-LEDs
-New Coin Door
-Basecoat clear high gloss black cabinet
-All mechs torn down cleaned, replated, rebuilt & rewrapped
-Harnesses scrubbed,everything else polished........
-screened,labeled,led'd and on and on.
-Boards gone through.new caps /bridges

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Thats my project for the moment.
Worked but with errors on goal through, diverter and problem with right flipper opto.
Solved it all but new problems appeared to the horizon.

I also will do a powder coating job for my lockbar, coindoor, siderails, legs and backbox hinges. Still figuring out what black gloss I will use.
Ordered Titan rubbers in yellow. Thinking of powder coating my cointoss, wire form and apron wire in the same color as my rubbers.

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The circular soccer player plastic that sits atop the upper left ramp has fallen off. Fortunately the nut and washer didn't fall out of reach, but the slot underneath seems to be too tight a squeeze for my hand. Does anyone have a tip/best practice for getting this on without removing the ramp? If not, does this thing serve any purpose other than ornamental (can I leave it off until my next deep clean)?

I have soccer ball decals on my pops.

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It doesn't appear to have any purpose other than ornamental. Yes, that nut and washer underneath is pretty hard to get to! You could lightly super glue the washer to the nut then insert it into a socket wrench (5/16"?) to get it in there to hold while you tighten from above.

First of all, this plastic is screwed on the ramp with a sheet metal screw, not a machine screw + nut. Here is the assembly in the BOM parts list:
1719 .2 A-19051 plfd plastic assy-50031 1
1720 ..3 31-1925-32 plfd plastic-world cup 1
1721 ..3 03-8022-2 "spacer 1.062 L""" 1
1722 ..3 4106-01088-24 sms #6X1 1/2 sl-hwh 1

Second, you need a "magnet in a stick" to reach metal parts that have fallen in there. This is a MUST-HAVE tool!!! you don't want loose metal parts down your wire harness grounding stuff and blowing fuses!

Third, if you have a big hole in your ramp and want to reduce its diameter for the screw to be tight, there are a lot of ways you can do that. Others use the super-glue + baking soda trick, other use epoxy glue. I personally use a UV curing glue because it stays translucent when it cures and is very very hard. Just make sure you sand around the hole a bit before applying glue for better adhesion.

Lastly, YES, this plastic assembly serves a purpose: If you have an airball, the ball will land on it, and fall safely back on the ramp.

Indeed, mine is held with a sheet metal screw... but it barely holds it, it falls on a regular basis. I guess too much assembly / disassembly made the thing loose. I think using sheet metal screws in plastic is not really a good design.