(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by KSUWildcatFan
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There are 5460 posts in this topic. You are on page 109 of 110.
#5401 31 days ago

Holy crap, I never even noticed how awful my switch slots look. Going to have to order a set of those I guess.

#5402 30 days ago

Finished a complete teardown and mini restore.

Cabinet:
- Cabinet decals in good shape (Some wrinkling near leg protectors)
- DMD Bright and clear
- Mirror blades
- All new shooter assembly
- Custom shooter rod
- Blemish on translite

Electronics:
- Clean Boards
- Clean GI Connectors
- Remote battery holder
- Fixed various wiring hacks
- Replaced optos as needed
- Replaced switches as needed

Playfield:
- Completely disassembled
- Cleaned & waxed entire playfield
- All new posts
- All new plastics
- All new ramps
- All new rubbers
- All new Ninja Chrome pinballs
- Comet LEDs throughout
- All new Striker assembly
- New soccer ball
- New soccer ball motor and gearbox
- New Magnet Bracket & Pole for Mini-Playfield (A-18157)
- New flippers
- New gates
- Re-grained and polished all ball guides.
- New pop caps
- Hole Protectors(TV Award, Goalie, L. Light Free Kick Eject, R. Light Free Kick Eject, Assist Eject)
- Trough Anti-Mag Shim

WCS04b (resized).jpegWCS07 (resized).jpegWCS08 (resized).jpegWCS09 (resized).jpegWCS10 (resized).jpegWCS11 (resized).jpegWCS12 (resized).jpegWCS13 (resized).jpegWCS14 (resized).jpegWCS16 (resized).jpegWCS17 (resized).jpegWCS18 (resized).jpegWCS19 (resized).jpegWCS20 (resized).jpegWCS28 (resized).jpegWCS29 (resized).jpegWCS30 (resized).jpeg
#5403 30 days ago

Looks outstanding! I'm continuing to fight one of the slingshot bulbs and it's driving me insane.

#5404 29 days ago

Hello,

Also in the club since wednesday.
When starting the pin I receive a message that there is a problem with switch F4. When I trigger right flipper on test I see 3 switches that are active F1, F2 and F6.
Left flipper triggers only F3 and F8. No F4.
Was comparing the fliptronic board and the opto boards and I noticed that the wires are different placed as mentioned in the manual. Are there errors in the manual?
Thanks for your help in this case

#5405 28 days ago

New to the club and have a couple of issues . Can someone take pics of their trough opto. The transmitter.

These are the errors. Bad display and trough

1611968C-14DA-4887-8B41-EDEA09174237 (resized).jpeg
#5406 27 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

New to the club and have a couple of issues . Can someone take pics of their trough opto. The transmitter.
These are the errors. Bad display and trough[quoted image]

Usually vertical lines are a ribbon issue, so I would start there. Replacing bad ribbon cables can clear up other anomalous behavior.

#5407 27 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Usually vertical lines are a ribbon issue, so I would start there. Replacing bad ribbon cables can clear up other anomalous behavior.

Thanks, I ordered a cable. Do you have a pic of this trough board?

21AEEBE5-6305-48E6-B995-5C48397059BE (resized).jpeg
#5408 27 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Thanks, I ordered a cable. Do you have a pic of this trough board?[quoted image]

I sold my game today, but Pinball Life has a replacement.
https://www.pinballlife.com/trough-opto-transmitter-receiver-board-set-6-ball-for-williamsbally-pinball-machines.html

FWIW, I would all check all of your fuses and test points on the Power Driver board while you're in tech mode.

#5409 25 days ago

Wish I had gotten these on the machine sooner. Those slots are BEAT. Easily worth the $30 these cost to buy.
IMG_20191112_163329 (resized).jpgIMG_20191112_163337 (resized).jpg

Unless I'm mistaken, I believe that means I have every cliffy for this thing now. What a great product.

#5410 25 days ago

Joined the club recently. Did my first complete topside teardown and shop job. All new plastics and red rubbers. Went great...ordered some cliffys for the rollover slots. One question...I noticed tonight the goalie switch registers a "save" when the ball doesn't hit the goalie. Guy says "what a save" and points register as if a save was made at random. Didnt have much time to investigate...but I assume it's just a switch adjustment to give more gap? Goalie Switch 48 is for a save, correct? Thanks...love the game so far! A lot of fun.

#5411 25 days ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Joined the club recently. Did my first complete topside teardown and shop job. All new plastics and red rubbers. Went great...ordered some cliffys for the rollover slots. One question...I noticed tonight the goalie switch registers a "save" when the ball doesn't hit the goalie. Guy says "what a save" and points register as if a save was made at random. Didnt have much time to investigate...but I assume it's just a switch adjustment to give more gap? Goalie Switch 48 is for a save, correct? Thanks...love the game so far! A lot of fun.

Yep. Switch adjustment. The goalie is nothing but a standard stand up target that is upside down.

#5412 24 days ago

Got my color DMD in. Have new plastics, titans cliffy and mantis protectors to install. Right flipper is weak but both are brand new, so maybe clean the flipper opto?

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#5413 23 days ago

Yep! Cleaning the flipper opto is a really easy and non intrusive job and it can give surprisingly good results!

#5414 23 days ago

Has anyone swapped out old plastics during a shop and installed new? Did you keep the old?

I'm looking for uncracked of the following (big one in the bottom picture):
Screen Shot 2019-11-14 at 10.01.04 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-11-14 at 9.59.46 AM (resized).png

#5415 23 days ago

Imo, no sense in keeping cracked junk, but others may not agree. It's not a rare game, and there are plenty of parts out there. Now, something mechanical that can be fixed and reused? That I might keep around.

#5416 23 days ago

Well, I'm looking for un-cracked, so problem solved.

#5417 23 days ago

Duh, I'm an idiot. I'm not sure why I read your post the way I did lmao.

That second pic is actually mine. Seems I have both new and used extras for both of those pieces, as part of the lots I was trying to sell to declutter a bit.

Not sure how keen I am on splitting the new ones off from the rest of that lot but I might be game for doing that with the used ones. I'll get some better pictures when I'm home and we can see if you're even interested in them.

#5418 23 days ago

Thanks!

#5419 23 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Yep! Cleaning the flipper opto is a really easy and non intrusive job and it can give surprisingly good results!

Cleaned it and it seems to be much better. It was would hardly make it to the goalie and now it seems to rip. I want super snappy flippers!

#5420 23 days ago

Apologies for the late reply. Last night was crazy.

Here are all the used (or just loose; I'm not entirely sure they were all actually used) plastics I have. I also have some various clear protector pieces.

Also, unrelated, but my machine says it was inspected by L Christmas and I can't stop laughing.

IMG_20190928_224326 (resized).jpgIMG_20190928_224332 (resized).jpgIMG_20190928_224336 (resized).jpgIMG_20190928_224340 (resized).jpgIMG_20190928_223626 (resized).jpgIMG_20190928_223632 (resized).jpgIMG_20191115_054740 (resized).jpg
#5421 22 days ago

Are you selling individual pieces?

#5422 21 days ago

Is there anything that folks have that can go around the 4 Star buttons on the playfield? Mylar, black Mylar or maybe something else they make. Seems like common wear area

#5423 21 days ago

No wear on mine and you shouldn’t see any wear if they are adjusted properly. They should never depress far enough that the ball hits the edge of the switch cut out.

#5424 21 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

No wear on mine and you shouldn’t see any wear if they are adjusted properly. They should never depress far enough that the ball hits the edge of the switch cut out.

Well there is on mine, is there anything folks have put around them? Or did you just want to respond that it’s not common?

#5425 21 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Well there is on mine, is there anything folks have put around them? Or did you just want to respond that it’s not common?

Yeah I’ve never seen anything specifically made to protect them but it would be super easy to make your own Mylar rings.

Most importantly double check yours are adjusted correctly too.

#5426 21 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah I’ve never seen anything specifically made to protect them but it would be super easy to make your own Mylar rings.
Most importantly double check yours are adjusted correctly too.

Ok, I was thinking of making them. I’ll check the height. I just got it so need to do a little tweaking.

Thanks!

#5427 21 days ago

Can someone please tell me the proper wirewound resistor values from the pic provided. The board is from a WCS94. The resistors are shown in the manual as R210 and R211 without a description. I'm guessing 3.3K Ohms, 5 watt, 5% tolerance. Thanks in advance.

wpc r210 r211 (resized).jpg
#5428 21 days ago
Quoted from wombat:

Can someone please tell me the proper wirewound resistor values from the pic provided. The board is from a WCS94. The resistors are shown in the manual as R210 and R211 without a description. I'm guessing 3.3K Ohms, 5 watt, 5% tolerance. Thanks in advance.[quoted image]

Says right on the resistors - 3.3k 5% 5watt.

#5429 19 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

New to the club and have a couple of issues . Can someone take pics of their trough opto. The transmitter.
These are the errors. Bad display and trough[quoted image]

I don't think the issue is your trough... Even though that's what it SAYS it is.
The trough is run by a controller over on the left side, under the playfield. It's the only board in that area, so it's easy to find. That controller is probably not your issue either, but what this controller does is adapt the opto sensor to the switch matrix.

I had this exact same error, and was tail chasing for a few days, until I thought through the problem, and then went right to the root cause, which in this case, was a broken wire on one of the orange targets by the left ramp, which "broke the chain" in one column of the matrix.

Your problem is likely a broken wire on the switch matrix, somewhere else under the playfield. If you use the tests, it can be easy to locate. Go into your switch tests and test every switch on the playfield (rollovers, targets, etc). You will likely have a few switches not working, and they will all be together in a column or row, on your matrix. Then, you will be able to determine which wire to follow, and see where the break is.

#5430 16 days ago

I'm sure I'm not the only person pulling their hair out (now or in the past) over some of these stupid bulb wires. I've got several that are dim throughout my game and it's driving me nuts. My friend says to just repin them. Specifically on my slings I swapped left (full brightness) with right (basically half brightness) and the issue didn't follow the swap, so I'm fairly certain it's the wires/plug. Looking for suggestions on which parts to order, preferably from PinballLife if possible since I'm already working on building an order.

Also, I'm suddenly getting intermittent mixed results on the goal assist actually registering when a ball lands in the saucer. I've tried manipulating the microswitch bar but it never seems to fully resolve the issue. Any advice?

IMG_20191111_155620 (resized).jpgIMG_20191120_164026 (resized).jpg
#5431 16 days ago

Check you GI connectors in the backbox. Likely brown, overheating.

#5432 16 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check you GI connectors in the backbox. Likely brown, overheating.

That's where I would start as well...

Also, you swapped the light boards and not just the bulbs, right?

As for the switch not registering, you can attempt to bend the arm on the switch up or down slightly, and that may correct it. If not, swap in a new switch, or from an interesting recent post, take it apart and clean the contacts, or soak it in a cleaning solution and dry it out. There's not much to the mechanical mircoswitches.

#5433 16 days ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

That's where I would start as well...
Also, you swapped the light boards and not just the bulbs, right?
As for the switch not registering, you can attempt to bend the arm on the switch up or down slightly, and that may correct it. If not, swap in a new switch, or from an interesting recent post, take it apart and clean the contacts, or soak it in a cleaning solution and dry it out. There's not much to the mechanical mircoswitches.

Yes, swapped the entire assembly, bulb and all, with board and it didn't follow.

I'll check the back box and see if I notice anything there.

I thought the same on bending the bar--it really is a simple mechanism--but it's still fighting me. It didn't seem to have any resistance on the switch itself but might be worth pulling out and examining outside the machine.

Drives me nuts to be fighting issues on this as this is by far my best condition pin and was one I hoped to just plug and play while I poured significant time into all my other train wreck machines. Guess that was a bit optimistic lmao

Thanks for the suggestions.

-Jordan

#5434 16 days ago

You're switch most likely just needs some more adjustment to get it working. But, you could also have a cold solder joint on the switch. It happens.

I agree with others, your GI problems probably emminate from the driver board in the backbox. Definitely reseat connectors... but you're likely going to find some connectors, but you're likely going to find some GI molex that's crispy.

#5435 16 days ago

I checked plugs but nothing looked burned from what I could see. That said, I AM using a Superflux Surround Flash Kit and that does piggyback off some of the connectors.. So maybe I'll try removing that and see what that leaves me.

#5436 15 days ago

Y i k e s

Is it just me or does it appear that, rather than just stripping and repinning the factory wires, someone..uh... Ran entirely new wire with the new connectors? This hurts my head....

Say there were a plug that made the ENTIRE right side of the PF GI slightly dimmer... Any suggestions on which plug in the back box might be the most likely culprit? Or is this a completely moronic idea altogether? The multiple lights I'm seeing as slightly dim so appear to be all on the right side.

IMG_20191122_153641 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_153706 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_153717 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_153744 (resized).jpgIMG_20191122_153801 (resized).jpg
#5437 15 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

ENTIRE right side of the PF GI slightly dimmer... Any suggestions on which plug in the back box might be the most likely culprit?

IPDB Owner's Manual, page 3-5 (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Manual.pdf):

J121, pin 2

J121, pin 2

#5438 15 days ago

Bless you. I can't read.

Hmm.

IMG_20191122_183237_BURST005 (resized).jpg
#5439 15 days ago

Manual Page 3-25; connector J121 pin 2 is the orange wire. Pin 8 i(white/orange wire) is the power output and pin 2 is the return, which makes the circuit. That connector is new, so there has been an issue in the past, the old one likely burnt to a crisp and failed. Depending on who did it they may have only replaced the connector but not reflowed the solder or replaced the pins on the board. There could be 'cold' solder joints causing a bad connection. Do the dim lights brighten when that connector is plugged in and wiggled?

J121 pin 2 is the orange wire

If it isn't the connector or pins then I'll have to bow out and let someone more technical take it from here. I recommend checking out Pinwiki for great information: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Lamp_problems

#5440 14 days ago

Duh, you're right. I had my pictures flipped around, thinking the orange GI was on the left rather than on the right.

I'll try wiggling the connector and see what results that gives. It hasn't ALWAYS been dim like this but it certainly is now and it does appear to have affected much more than just one bulb on the right GI.

#5441 14 days ago

It's the connector or pins on the board itself, for sure. I actually got full brightness once or twice just plugging it back in.. But when I dropped the display panel back in, it was back to being dim. I pressed around on the right side of the plug and got it to 'pulse' a bit brighter as I did. Sucks, the boards were all reworked by Coin-op Cauldron, although that was 7 years ago...

Well, at least the problem is identified now.

#5442 13 days ago

For those who think the goalie area is a bit too dark... Here is a couple of pics showing how I added a little spotlight to my game (I'm sure some have done that already, but I wanted to share my pictures to show how easy it can be done). I mounted the spotlight behind the left jackpot plastic... I used the existing screw to attach the base of the spotlight (the threaded hole was perfect for the screw, no mod required). Easy and reversible!

IMG_20191123_171727 (resized).jpgIMG_20191123_171917 (resized).jpg
#5443 13 days ago

I see that Pinsound has a shaker motor that is compatible with WCS—has anyone implemented this? Impressions? When does it shake?

#5444 12 days ago

On the left... My goalie, tired after 20 years of being shot by steel balls. On the right the replacement decal sold by Marco for $8.99...

Colors are off (don't match at all the other plastics around), picture is not as sharp, image is mirrored... I'm a bit disappointed!

IMG_20191125_171144 (resized).jpg
#5445 12 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

On the left... My goalie, tired after 20 years of being shot by steel balls. On the right the replacement decal sold by Marco for $8.99...
Colors are off (don't match at all the other plastics around), picture is not as sharp, image is mirrored... I'm a bit disappointed![quoted image]

IMHO, I've had numerous issues with Marco and their decals. For any game. SO much, I've stopped considering them as the best source, sadly.

#5446 12 days ago

Is the padded target even available? I’m more worried about finding that as a replacement than the decal.

#5447 12 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

On the left... My goalie, tired after 20 years of being shot by steel balls. On the right the replacement decal sold by Marco for $8.99...
Colors are off (don't match at all the other plastics around), picture is not as sharp, image is mirrored... I'm a bit disappointed![quoted image]

Understand your disappointment.
Not a very good replacement is it.

#5448 12 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

On the left... My goalie, tired after 20 years of being shot by steel balls. On the right the replacement decal sold by Marco for $8.99...
Colors are off (don't match at all the other plastics around), picture is not as sharp, image is mirrored... I'm a bit disappointed![quoted image]

the PPS repro isn't better, so much so that is may be Marcos source...
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-2811&Product_Code=PPA-31-1924-SET

#5449 12 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Has anyone swapped out old plastics during a shop and installed new? Did you keep the old?
I'm looking for uncracked of the following (big one in the bottom picture):
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey...I think I have the big piece you're looking for and its un-cracked and of all the old pieces I replaced it's nearly new looking. I think. Will check in the morning and let you know. You can have it if I do...I live in Gaithersburg as well.

#5450 12 days ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Hey...I think I have the big piece you're looking for and its un-cracked and of all the old pieces I replaced it's nearly new looking. I think. Will check in the morning and let you know. You can have it if I do...I live in Gaithersburg as well.

I have this piece if you want it. Like new. Sending you a PM now.

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