#10-389
Game Room Guys ID it for Twilight Zone
Marco IDs it for Funhouse in the title

Oh actually that's not the spring I'm looking for. I'm looking for the one that goes over the plunger to provide resistance resetting the diverter when the coil is inactive. I just went ahead and ordered all 3 compression springs from Marco that came up under WCS 94. One of them has gotta be right

Ah you got the one up in Cumming. I was the guy who looked at it right before you. The raised inserts and 2 yrs in a Georgia garage kind of spooked me. I regretted not buying it as soon as I left though.

You got an awesome deal. If you decide for any reason that you want to move it on pls shoot me a message. I'll gladly take it off your hands.

Yes I was actually shocked that you passed on the game after seeing the condition. It’s very nice. Just finished a teardown. Cleaned, new rubbers, new soccer ball, new goalie, and waxed it good. It plays fantastic. As I said, this is my second WCS and this playfield is nicer than the first.

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Bumping this one real quick. I agreed on a price with the seller and should pick up the machine in a few days. I uploaded a bunch of pics on a drive and would be super grateful if some of you here could have a look at them and let me know if you spot anything wrong I might have miss. Here's the link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Aox0PnSgiY5SX0ieZpI303l9kXqa7dE0?usp=sharing

Link to my second post listing some more issues I spotted during my second visit: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/107#post-5256711

Thanks a lot!

Is that a screw hole to the right of the goal near the mascot shot?

You need to install new header pins to the GI section where the hacks are, along with new matching connectors.

You are going to need to purchase a new DMD controller board or rebuild the high voltage section of the DMD board. If you can do board work it is about $20 worth of parts. If not, about $100 for the board.

I would buy new ramps. They are available but expensive. $378!

The sling plastics are available I believe also.

So, do the motors actually work?

I'm in the home stretch of doing an overhaul on the game I just got and I need some help.

First:
The wireworm for the Ball Gate Assembly(A-10744) is missing.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10744

After looking high and low, I have not found the exact part, but I do have a candidate that I believe could be modified to work.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6565

Second:
This game is missing the Striker Board Assembly(A-18775)

This has been covered somewhat before, but I put together a list of parts I'm ordering which should make it an easy install.

- WORLD CUP SOCCER (Bally) Striker bracket (01-13044)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
- WORLD CUP SOCCER (Bally) Plastic (31-1925-17)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-17
- Lamp socket - Wedge base (077-5026-01)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5026-01
- Cable - general illumination 2 pin 12 inch (H-18220-3)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-18220-3

Thoughts?

I think so. Why would someone put a screw there I have no idea.

Yep I had already spotted the GI connector to rebuild. Depending on how bad it looks on the other side of the board, I will attempt the repair myself. Otherwise I will send it for repair along with the DMD board.

Alternatively, would you recommend this kind of piggy board for the DMD board? https://www.pinballshop.nl/virtual-pinball/lcd-monitors-dmd-displays/dmd-piggyback-board/

Slingshots and a few other plastics are already on my shopping list. Ramps are another story. They're expensive but even more so if you add shipping to Europe :/

To be honest, I'm not aiming at a collector restore so although new ramps would be more than welcome, I doubt I will spend over 400€ on them. I will clean the pin inside and out, replace broken plastics, (try to) fix what needs fixing and perhaps switch to Leds.

Hard to say. It makes some kind of squealing noise but the ball doesn't spin.

One goalie-related question: the goalie target doesn't register. My assumption is that it's probably just a lose wire or optos to clean but what could be the worst case scenario with this? Anyone ever experienced the issue? There are several pics of the assembly in the drive. Other than that, the motor works fine and the goalie moves freely and as far as I remember the pin registers goals.

The goalie target is very simple, it is just an upside down stand up target. The switch could not be gapped properly or a wire has come off. Worse case scenario is is a switch matrix problem, but if that is the only target not working, that is unlikely. Once you remove the goalie plastic if will probably be clear what is wrong.

Yes, you could do the piggy board if the high voltage section is the only thing wrong. There are other parts of the DMD board that can cause other issues, but the HV section is obviously bad. Price is getting really close to a replacement complete board however.

Sounds good, thanks!

Any thought on the DMD piggyback board? Sounds to me like it was made for exactly the kind of issue this board has. Also centre-drain mentioned something about controlling the DMD voltage to check if it could be outgassed. Definitely need to remember doing that!

edit: just saw you edited your previous post, thanks. Unfortunately, shipping price again makes the price of a brand new board go up from a European country. I'll compare prices between sending it to repair, a piggyback board and a brand new full board and make a decision.

Board work isn't for everyone, but if you make the investment in the right tools, you can save a TON of money in situations like this. The actual failed components are very cheap. It just depends on how many boards you will end up fixing.

Just curious if it's showed up yet?

It has a diode on that switch as well so make sure that is still good also.

I just joined the club

'Atta boy, now enjoy!

i will, it is such a fun game

I’ve had this game for close to a year now and I’m still figuring out quirks in the scoring.

I’ve always been mad when I get an “assist” goal while the goalie was already moving—because in that case it clears the rollover lights after the goal, but if you score an assist with the lights partially lit, they stay lit after the goal.

I just noticed that the game counts it as two goals when you score the assist when the goalie was already moving. So all my anger was apparently incredibly misplaced!

I did Cliffy's & Mantis protectors on all of my scoops, might want to consider that depending on how worn they are. The Mantis protectors are pretty inexpensive but they really protect the hole and also keep a perfect circle for consistent results when the ball is kicked out.

The Cliffy carbon fiber protectors look cool and are great for covering up some wear, but they don't actually protect the scoop itself all that much. Just the art around it.

Paid $3200 for my WCS. I'm perfectly okay with it. It had all the upgrades I wanted at the time besides bronze accents (working on those now) and a color DMD which I'll eventually add.

1. Coin-op Cauldron Pinball repair. WPC Power Driver board Repaired in 2012
2. Superflux Surround Flash Kit from Germany
3. New Soccer Ball installed in 2014
4. New Ramp Front 2014
5. Several new decals 2014
6. Pinball Pro Speakers, Full Set 2012
7. Full Set of Cliffy Protectors 2015
8. Several new coils including the flippers and kick outs 2015
9. Backbox topper, including toy soccer ball, and shooter rod soccer ball. 2016
10. New plastics from CPR Full Set Installed 2016
11. Original WCS(Operations Manual)
12. Full Cointaker Super Brite LED KIT 2013
13. New Chrome Legs From Pinball Life 2016
14. New DMD display 2018
15. New Rottendog DMD driver board 2018
16. Professionally bulletproofed high voltage jumper board installed
17. Ramps were flame polished about a year ago.
18. Goalie motor replaced in 2013

There wasn't a whole lot for under 3000 when I was looking.. But I'm happy with what I got for my money. Only a few 'issues': the soccer ball is a bit noisy, the left super kick hole kicks HARD, straight down the middle the first time after power up (seems to settle a bit thereafter), and eventually I'll want to touch up one of my star rollovers.

WCS is such a wonderful game. Great for players of all skill levels

The ball motor has a gearbox that will eventually strip one of the gears and make a terrible noise. If that's what's happened, take it out and look for two screws holding the motor to the gearbox. If you undo these screws and pop the two parts apart you'll see one of the two gears that transfer power from the motor to the gearbox will be completely stripped, but that the stripped gear is longer than the gear it mates with. You may be able to use washers to separate the motor from the gearbox a small amount so that the gears mesh again. No idea how long that will last, but that'll save you $80-$100 on a new gearbox and motor for at least a while. This thread shows the motor taken apart and you can see the gear in question: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-ball-squealwhine-noise

Also, most of these machines seem to have the ball wired backwards. I think the original intent was for the ball to assist goal scoring during the game (i.e. it spins clockwise towards the goal) and when you reach the world cup final it reverses direction to up the difficulty. I think most operators reversed the ball to make games shorter. One side effect is that the ball is always being flung into the side of the left ramp and tends to break it. You can check it in the solenoid test mode I believe to confirm the spin direction. (CCW = counterclockwise = anticlockwise)

Good luck!
Josh

I don't feel like the soccer ball on mine really affects much. It certainly seems to spin fast--and loud!--but I just don't think it does much to the pinball as I'm playing.

Is it new and clean? If you see any dirt on it clean it good with novus 2. That will restore the tacky feeling of the ball and start flinging the ball around.

You're probably right. I'll give that a shot.

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Did pics of the new mirrored glass ever get posted anywhere? I'm still contemplating buying.

Oh yeah that’s dirty as hell. Hopefully you’ll be able to get that all off.

The rest of the game seems much much cleaner so I assume the ball probably hasn't been cleaned in the entire 5 years it's been in the machine. I'll probably combine that with tearing that assembly down and fixing the noise. Then again, the stripped high speed playfield in my dining room that's begging to be sanded and hardtopped says it's far more likely I'll just do neither in the short run. Doh.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/wcs94glass/

Ooo I didn't realize they had updated the page itself. Damn, that looks great.

Finally got around to unpacking the new backglass. CPR has stronger purples and less saturated greens than the original. Pics are of CPR lit with white LEDs in the backbox and a comparison with CPR on top, original on bottom.

Hope that helps! Really quality piece, looks awesome in person.

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Just realized I mirror imaged the comparison, accidentally. Ignore that part, and here's the correct version.

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The original seems to be a bit brighter, the top one looks like a faded translite lol

Yeah, the green is my least favorite part of the new backglass. All the other colors look great, but the green would look better with the original saturation.

IMO, it's not just the green. All-around it looks washed out by comparison.

Look what I found in an old notebook from high school!

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The standard Cliffy set doesn't include slot protectors for where the ball drops to the inlanes -- I would get a pair of those as well and add them under the ramp drops.

Does anyone else have an issue where there game constantly thinks there is a switch bad because it wasn't activated is some time so it brings up the credit dot. I had a little party over the weekend and towards the end I noticed a switch 47 errror. Once I activated the switch the error went away. Then when I was playing last night, I noticed a credit dot in the middle of the game. By the end of the game, the dot was gone as I guess I activated whatever switch it though was bad . Is there anyway to turn this off or have it come up less often?

Yep that happens. My game does that too, in my it’s a flaky trough opto. There’s no way to disable it, so either wait for it to show up again or track it down in switch test.

Thanks for the detailed answer Josh! I'm afraid I'll never get to the bottom of this ball motor issue as I ended up picking up a Demolition Man instead of the WCS!

Raincheck for joining this club though, I really like WCS and will definitely consider it for a future potential trade

Does anybody make and sell new playfields for this beautiful game?

I somehow ended up with two extra cliffys -- for the goal and for the TV award. Is there any reason whatsoever why I should keep them around / any potential ways to repurpose them?

I wish! Lotta folks need them and want them.

https://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm

Cliff sells them. If you ordered direct from him just drop him an email and ask to add some to the order.