(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by KSUWildcatFan
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There are 5409 posts in this topic. You are on page 108 of 109.
#5351 22 days ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Does anyone know which compression spring is the correct size for the diverter assembly?

#10-389
Game Room Guys ID it for Twilight Zone
Marco IDs it for Funhouse in the title

#5352 22 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

#10-389
Game Room Guys ID it for Twilight Zone
Marco IDs it for Funhouse in the title

Oh actually that's not the spring I'm looking for. I'm looking for the one that goes over the plunger to provide resistance resetting the diverter when the coil is inactive. I just went ahead and ordered all 3 compression springs from Marco that came up under WCS 94. One of them has gotta be right

#5353 22 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Back in the club! Was away for 3.5 years but regretted selling mine right away. Needs a new soccer ball and goalie - those come on Monday. Also a good cleaning of course.

Ah you got the one up in Cumming. I was the guy who looked at it right before you. The raised inserts and 2 yrs in a Georgia garage kind of spooked me. I regretted not buying it as soon as I left though.

You got an awesome deal. If you decide for any reason that you want to move it on pls shoot me a message. I'll gladly take it off your hands.

#5354 21 days ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

Ah you got the one up in Cumming. I was the guy who looked at it right before you. The raised inserts and 2 yrs in a Georgia garage kind of spooked me. I regretted not buying it as soon as I left though.
You got an awesome deal. If you decide for any reason that you want to move it on pls shoot me a message. I'll gladly take it off your hands.

Yes I was actually shocked that you passed on the game after seeing the condition. It’s very nice. Just finished a teardown. Cleaned, new rubbers, new soccer ball, new goalie, and waxed it good. It plays fantastic. As I said, this is my second WCS and this playfield is nicer than the first.

67BFCC1C-4368-4BF1-BC7A-E185CEA82E36 (resized).jpegF9CC747D-D51A-4E72-BD11-D9654E54CE61 (resized).jpeg
#5355 20 days ago
Quoted from Sk0r:

I went to see the machine tonight. If I manage to negotiate it at the right price, I think I'm looking at a good project pin which is what I'm looking for.
- Ball motor isn't working. Also ball needs to be replaced
- Goalie switch doesn't register
- Left target of left ramp entry doesn't register
- Right lane change doesn't work
- Lots of broken plastics
- Nasty J120 (or J121, didn't check) burn
- Metal ramp is "desoldered" from its metal base (on top of the right slingshot)
- Noticed a weird hack on the top right board - I think it's the Dot Matrix card but not sure
- Rubbers and flippers need to be changed/rebuilt
- Noticed cabinet cracks on both sides of the lock bar
- Probably a few other issues I didn't have the chance to notice haha
- Pretty much everything needs to be cleaned up
+ Both magnets are working (magna + ball lock)
+ Goalie motor works
+ Ramp needs a good cleaning but I didn't see any crack
+ No major wear on the playfield. It's not perfect but a solid 8/10 after cleaning I'd say
Some questions if you guys don't mind:
- Damaged board: could you confirm I'm looking at the Dot Matrix board (see pictures attached)? Any idea why the dual-diode hack? Basically I'm trying to understand how worried I should be about that (new Rottendog board would cost me 130€ with shipping). [edit: after checking the manual, I'm 99% sure it's the Dot Matrix board. I would still be interested in your opinion about the hack job and seemingly burnt area though!]
- Ball motor: can it be fixed or am I looking at a mandatory new motor order?
- Cabinet cracks: are these common?
- Bonus question: the only pin I’ve owned was a System 11b so I'm not very familiar with WPC test procedure. I did manage to go to test mode but nothing happened when I went to coil test, flash or sound test. Did I forget to do something? On my Taxi, coil mode would automatically fire all coils one after the other. I did push one of the button to switch from "Repeat" to "Linear" (or something like that) but still, nothing was happening.
Many thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bumping this one real quick. I agreed on a price with the seller and should pick up the machine in a few days. I uploaded a bunch of pics on a drive and would be super grateful if some of you here could have a look at them and let me know if you spot anything wrong I might have miss. Here's the link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Aox0PnSgiY5SX0ieZpI303l9kXqa7dE0?usp=sharing

Link to my second post listing some more issues I spotted during my second visit: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/107#post-5256711

Thanks a lot!

#5356 20 days ago
Quoted from Sk0r:

Bumping this one real quick. I agreed on a price with the seller and should pick up the machine in a few days. I uploaded a bunch of pics on a drive and would be super grateful if some of you here could have a look at them and let me know if you spot anything wrong I might have miss. Here's the link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Aox0PnSgiY5SX0ieZpI303l9kXqa7dE0?usp=sharing
Link to my second post listing some more issues I spotted during my second visit: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/107#post-5256711
Thanks a lot!

Is that a screw hole to the right of the goal near the mascot shot?

You need to install new header pins to the GI section where the hacks are, along with new matching connectors.

You are going to need to purchase a new DMD controller board or rebuild the high voltage section of the DMD board. If you can do board work it is about $20 worth of parts. If not, about $100 for the board.

I would buy new ramps. They are available but expensive. $378!

The sling plastics are available I believe also.

So, do the motors actually work?

#5357 19 days ago

I'm in the home stretch of doing an overhaul on the game I just got and I need some help.

First:
The wireworm for the Ball Gate Assembly(A-10744) is missing.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10744

After looking high and low, I have not found the exact part, but I do have a candidate that I believe could be modified to work.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6565

Second:
This game is missing the Striker Board Assembly(A-18775)

This has been covered somewhat before, but I put together a list of parts I'm ordering which should make it an easy install.

- WORLD CUP SOCCER (Bally) Striker bracket (01-13044)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13044
- WORLD CUP SOCCER (Bally) Plastic (31-1925-17)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-17
- Lamp socket - Wedge base (077-5026-01)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5026-01
- Cable - general illumination 2 pin 12 inch (H-18220-3)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-18220-3

Thoughts?

#5358 19 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Is that a screw hole to the right of the goal near the mascot shot?

I think so. Why would someone put a screw there I have no idea.

Quoted from kermit24:

You need to install new header pins to the GI section where the hacks are, along with new matching connectors.
You are going to need to purchase a new DMD controller board or rebuild the high voltage section of the DMD board. If you can do board work it is about $20 worth of parts. If not, about $100 for the board.

Yep I had already spotted the GI connector to rebuild. Depending on how bad it looks on the other side of the board, I will attempt the repair myself. Otherwise I will send it for repair along with the DMD board.

Alternatively, would you recommend this kind of piggy board for the DMD board? https://www.pinballshop.nl/virtual-pinball/lcd-monitors-dmd-displays/dmd-piggyback-board/

Quoted from kermit24:

I would buy new ramps. They are available but expensive. $378! The sling plastics are available I believe also.

Slingshots and a few other plastics are already on my shopping list. Ramps are another story. They're expensive but even more so if you add shipping to Europe :/

To be honest, I'm not aiming at a collector restore so although new ramps would be more than welcome, I doubt I will spend over 400€ on them. I will clean the pin inside and out, replace broken plastics, (try to) fix what needs fixing and perhaps switch to Leds.

Quoted from kermit24:

So, do the motors actually work?

Hard to say. It makes some kind of squealing noise but the ball doesn't spin.

One goalie-related question: the goalie target doesn't register. My assumption is that it's probably just a lose wire or optos to clean but what could be the worst case scenario with this? Anyone ever experienced the issue? There are several pics of the assembly in the drive. Other than that, the motor works fine and the goalie moves freely and as far as I remember the pin registers goals.

#5359 19 days ago
Quoted from Sk0r:

the goalie target doesn't register. My assumption is that it's probably just a lose wire or optos to clean but what could be the worst case scenario with this? Anyone ever experienced the issue?

The goalie target is very simple, it is just an upside down stand up target. The switch could not be gapped properly or a wire has come off. Worse case scenario is is a switch matrix problem, but if that is the only target not working, that is unlikely. Once you remove the goalie plastic if will probably be clear what is wrong.

Quoted from Sk0r:

Alternatively, would you recommend this kind of piggy board for the DMD board? https://www.pinballshop.nl/virtual-pinball/lcd-monitors-dmd-displays/dmd-piggyback-board/

Yes, you could do the piggy board if the high voltage section is the only thing wrong. There are other parts of the DMD board that can cause other issues, but the HV section is obviously bad. Price is getting really close to a replacement complete board however.

#5360 19 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

The goalie target is very simple, it is just an upside down stand up target. The switch could not be gapped properly or a wire has come off. Worse case scenario is is a switch matrix problem, but if that is the only target not working, that is unlikely. Once you remove the goalie plastic if will probably be clear what is wrong.

Sounds good, thanks!

Any thought on the DMD piggyback board? Sounds to me like it was made for exactly the kind of issue this board has. Also centre-drain mentioned something about controlling the DMD voltage to check if it could be outgassed. Definitely need to remember doing that!

edit: just saw you edited your previous post, thanks. Unfortunately, shipping price again makes the price of a brand new board go up from a European country. I'll compare prices between sending it to repair, a piggyback board and a brand new full board and make a decision.

#5361 19 days ago
Quoted from Sk0r:

Sounds good, thanks!
Any thought on the DMD piggyback board? Sounds to me like it was made for exactly the kind of issue this board has. Also centre-drain mentioned something about controlling the DMD voltage to check if it could be outgassed. Definitely need to remember doing that!
edit: just saw you edited your previous post, thanks. Unfortunately, shipping price again makes the price of a brand new board go up from a European country. I'll compare prices between sending it to repair, a piggyback board and a brand new full board and make a decision.

Board work isn't for everyone, but if you make the investment in the right tools, you can save a TON of money in situations like this. The actual failed components are very cheap. It just depends on how many boards you will end up fixing.

#5362 19 days ago
Quoted from dthomasset:

I grabbed one, since my original has a bad scratch. If I can get a decent comparison picture, I'll post it here when it arrives.

Just curious if it's showed up yet?

#5363 19 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

The goalie target is very simple, it is just an upside down stand up target. The switch could not be gapped properly or a wire has come off

It has a diode on that switch as well so make sure that is still good also.

#5364 15 days ago

I just joined the club

#5365 15 days ago
Quoted from Nickson:

I just joined the club

'Atta boy, now enjoy!

#5366 14 days ago
Quoted from rollitover:

'Atta boy, now enjoy!

i will, it is such a fun game

#5367 14 days ago

I’ve had this game for close to a year now and I’m still figuring out quirks in the scoring.

I’ve always been mad when I get an “assist” goal while the goalie was already moving—because in that case it clears the rollover lights after the goal, but if you score an assist with the lights partially lit, they stay lit after the goal.

I just noticed that the game counts it as two goals when you score the assist when the goalie was already moving. So all my anger was apparently incredibly misplaced!

#5368 13 days ago
BCA1787E-6FDE-473B-AB7B-85121818AA69 (resized).jpeg
#5369 13 days ago

I'm SO excited! I get mine delivered next Wednesday! Cliffys, invisiglass, and color DMD are first on my list.

#5370 13 days ago
Quoted from Wanimal:

I'm SO excited! I get mine delivered next Wednesday! Cliffys, invisiglass, and color DMD are first on my list.

I did Cliffy's & Mantis protectors on all of my scoops, might want to consider that depending on how worn they are. The Mantis protectors are pretty inexpensive but they really protect the hole and also keep a perfect circle for consistent results when the ball is kicked out.

The Cliffy carbon fiber protectors look cool and are great for covering up some wear, but they don't actually protect the scoop itself all that much. Just the art around it.

#5371 13 days ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I did Cliffy's & Mantis protectors on all of my scoops, might want to consider that depending on how worn they are. The Mantis protectors are pretty inexpensive but they really protect the hole and also keep a perfect circle for consistent results when the ball is kicked out.
The Cliffy carbon fiber protectors look cool and are great for covering up some wear, but they don't actually protect the scoop itself all that much. Just the art around it.

Thank you for the insight I truly appreciate it!

#5372 13 days ago
Quoted from Eryeal:

Sorry, my definition of recently is more like in the past 12-24 months in terms of life of the pin. I wasn't talking like in the last 8 weeks. I think just about every pin value has dropped recently in the past few months. I still say games like WCS and NGG, time proven classics that consistently top the value/fun charts, stand the most chance of still increasing in value. It wouldn't surprise me to see NGG become a $4k game in the next 1-2 years, and WCS near $3k.
And as a disclaimer, this isn't cheerleading - I want a NGG and have never had one, and I recently sold my WCS. I have no vested interest in seeing any of these machines go up.

You can't really find a nice WCS right now for under 3k. Been looking A LOT. I think pinsides avg prices are a bit lower

#5373 12 days ago

Paid $3200 for my WCS. I'm perfectly okay with it. It had all the upgrades I wanted at the time besides bronze accents (working on those now) and a color DMD which I'll eventually add.

1. Coin-op Cauldron Pinball repair. WPC Power Driver board Repaired in 2012
2. Superflux Surround Flash Kit from Germany
3. New Soccer Ball installed in 2014
4. New Ramp Front 2014
5. Several new decals 2014
6. Pinball Pro Speakers, Full Set 2012
7. Full Set of Cliffy Protectors 2015
8. Several new coils including the flippers and kick outs 2015
9. Backbox topper, including toy soccer ball, and shooter rod soccer ball. 2016
10. New plastics from CPR Full Set Installed 2016
11. Original WCS(Operations Manual)
12. Full Cointaker Super Brite LED KIT 2013
13. New Chrome Legs From Pinball Life 2016
14. New DMD display 2018
15. New Rottendog DMD driver board 2018
16. Professionally bulletproofed high voltage jumper board installed
17. Ramps were flame polished about a year ago.
18. Goalie motor replaced in 2013

There wasn't a whole lot for under 3000 when I was looking.. But I'm happy with what I got for my money. Only a few 'issues': the soccer ball is a bit noisy, the left super kick hole kicks HARD, straight down the middle the first time after power up (seems to settle a bit thereafter), and eventually I'll want to touch up one of my star rollovers.

WCS is such a wonderful game. Great for players of all skill levels

#5374 11 days ago
Quoted from Sk0r:

Hard to say. It makes some kind of squealing noise but the ball doesn't spin.

The ball motor has a gearbox that will eventually strip one of the gears and make a terrible noise. If that's what's happened, take it out and look for two screws holding the motor to the gearbox. If you undo these screws and pop the two parts apart you'll see one of the two gears that transfer power from the motor to the gearbox will be completely stripped, but that the stripped gear is longer than the gear it mates with. You may be able to use washers to separate the motor from the gearbox a small amount so that the gears mesh again. No idea how long that will last, but that'll save you $80-$100 on a new gearbox and motor for at least a while. This thread shows the motor taken apart and you can see the gear in question: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-ball-squealwhine-noise

Also, most of these machines seem to have the ball wired backwards. I think the original intent was for the ball to assist goal scoring during the game (i.e. it spins clockwise towards the goal) and when you reach the world cup final it reverses direction to up the difficulty. I think most operators reversed the ball to make games shorter. One side effect is that the ball is always being flung into the side of the left ramp and tends to break it. You can check it in the solenoid test mode I believe to confirm the spin direction. (CCW = counterclockwise = anticlockwise)

Good luck!
Josh

#5375 11 days ago

I don't feel like the soccer ball on mine really affects much. It certainly seems to spin fast--and loud!--but I just don't think it does much to the pinball as I'm playing.

#5376 11 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I don't feel like the soccer ball on mine really affects much. It certainly seems to spin fast--and loud!--but I just don't think it does much to the pinball as I'm playing.

Is it new and clean? If you see any dirt on it clean it good with novus 2. That will restore the tacky feeling of the ball and start flinging the ball around.

#5377 11 days ago

You're probably right. I'll give that a shot.

received_487111835424689 (resized).jpeg
#5378 11 days ago

Did pics of the new mirrored glass ever get posted anywhere? I'm still contemplating buying.

#5379 11 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

You're probably right. I'll give that a shot.[quoted image]

Oh yeah that’s dirty as hell. Hopefully you’ll be able to get that all off.

#5380 11 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh yeah that’s dirty as hell. Hopefully you’ll be able to get that all off.

The rest of the game seems much much cleaner so I assume the ball probably hasn't been cleaned in the entire 5 years it's been in the machine. I'll probably combine that with tearing that assembly down and fixing the noise. Then again, the stripped high speed playfield in my dining room that's begging to be sanded and hardtopped says it's far more likely I'll just do neither in the short run. Doh.

#5381 11 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Did pics of the new mirrored glass ever get posted anywhere?

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/wcs94glass/

#5382 11 days ago

Ooo I didn't realize they had updated the page itself. Damn, that looks great.

#5383 10 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Ooo I didn't realize they had updated the page itself. Damn, that looks great.

Definitely on my list of eventual upgrades for sure.

#5384 10 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Ooo I didn't realize they had updated the page itself. Damn, that looks great.

Finally got around to unpacking the new backglass. CPR has stronger purples and less saturated greens than the original. Pics are of CPR lit with white LEDs in the backbox and a comparison with CPR on top, original on bottom.

Hope that helps! Really quality piece, looks awesome in person.

IMG_20191023_224005.jpgPSX_20191102_201917.jpg
#5385 10 days ago
Quoted from dthomasset:

Finally got around to unpacking the new backglass. CPR has stronger purples and less saturated greens than the original. Pics are of CPR lit with white LEDs in the backbox and a comparison with CPR on top, original on bottom.
Hope that helps! Really quality piece, looks awesome in person.[quoted image][quoted image]

Just realized I mirror imaged the comparison, accidentally. Ignore that part, and here's the correct version.

PSX_20191102_202633.jpg
#5386 9 days ago

The original seems to be a bit brighter, the top one looks like a faded translite lol

#5387 9 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

The original seems to be a bit brighter, the top one looks like a faded translite lol

Yeah, the green is my least favorite part of the new backglass. All the other colors look great, but the green would look better with the original saturation.

#5388 9 days ago

IMO, it's not just the green. All-around it looks washed out by comparison.

#5389 9 days ago

Look what I found in an old notebook from high school!

Capture (resized).PNG
#5390 8 days ago

Just ordered my cliffys, mantis protectors, and LED colordmd! Any other must haves?

#5391 8 days ago
Quoted from Wanimal:

Just ordered my cliffys, mantis protectors, and LED colordmd! Any other must haves?

The standard Cliffy set doesn't include slot protectors for where the ball drops to the inlanes -- I would get a pair of those as well and add them under the ramp drops.

#5392 8 days ago

Does anyone else have an issue where there game constantly thinks there is a switch bad because it wasn't activated is some time so it brings up the credit dot. I had a little party over the weekend and towards the end I noticed a switch 47 errror. Once I activated the switch the error went away. Then when I was playing last night, I noticed a credit dot in the middle of the game. By the end of the game, the dot was gone as I guess I activated whatever switch it though was bad . Is there anyway to turn this off or have it come up less often?

#5393 8 days ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Does anyone else have an issue where there game constantly thinks there is a switch bad because it wasn't activated is some time so it brings up the credit dot. I had a little party over the weekend and towards the end I noticed a switch 47 errror. Once I activated the switch the error went away. Then when I was playing last night, I noticed a credit dot in the middle of the game. By the end of the game, the dot was gone as I guess I activated whatever switch it though was bad . Is there anyway to turn this off or have it come up less often?

Yep that happens. My game does that too, in my it’s a flaky trough opto. There’s no way to disable it, so either wait for it to show up again or track it down in switch test.

#5394 8 days ago
Quoted from JoshinDC:

The ball motor has a gearbox that will eventually strip one of the gears and make a terrible noise. If that's what's happened, take it out and look for two screws holding the motor to the gearbox. If you undo these screws and pop the two parts apart you'll see one of the two gears that transfer power from the motor to the gearbox will be completely stripped, but that the stripped gear is longer than the gear it mates with. You may be able to use washers to separate the motor from the gearbox a small amount so that the gears mesh again. No idea how long that will last, but that'll save you $80-$100 on a new gearbox and motor for at least a while. This thread shows the motor taken apart and you can see the gear in question: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-ball-squealwhine-noise
Also, most of these machines seem to have the ball wired backwards. I think the original intent was for the ball to assist goal scoring during the game (i.e. it spins clockwise towards the goal) and when you reach the world cup final it reverses direction to up the difficulty. I think most operators reversed the ball to make games shorter. One side effect is that the ball is always being flung into the side of the left ramp and tends to break it. You can check it in the solenoid test mode I believe to confirm the spin direction. (CCW = counterclockwise = anticlockwise)
Good luck!
Josh

Thanks for the detailed answer Josh! I'm afraid I'll never get to the bottom of this ball motor issue as I ended up picking up a Demolition Man instead of the WCS!

Raincheck for joining this club though, I really like WCS and will definitely consider it for a future potential trade

#5395 8 days ago

Does anybody make and sell new playfields for this beautiful game?

#5396 7 days ago

I somehow ended up with two extra cliffys -- for the goal and for the TV award. Is there any reason whatsoever why I should keep them around / any potential ways to repurpose them?

#5397 7 days ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Does anybody make and sell new playfields for this beautiful game?

I wish! Lotta folks need them and want them.

#5398 7 days ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

The standard Cliffy set doesn't include slot protectors for where the ball drops to the inlanes -- I would get a pair of those as well and add them under the ramp drops.

Where can I get those at?

#5400 6 days ago
Quoted from Wanimal:

Where can I get those at?

Cliff sells them. If you ordered direct from him just drop him an email and ask to add some to the order.

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